Twodoor

iTrader: (2)

Well, the turbo is in place, downpipe bolted in, wideband O2 in place with front and rear stock O2 sensors deleted and with plugs in place.

Overview picture of installed turbo.



Top view



Front view



I also have the intercooler bolted in place. Wondering if I can modify the stock tow hooks to work with the two remaining bolt holes (BEGi intercooler bolts to the tow hook mounting point).

Front view of intercooler



Upward view of intercooler and power steering cooler.



Here is my latest problem, the oil drain hose is almost half a foot too long. How the **** do you miss-measure by that much?

Here is a pic of the oil drain line



Here is a pic with the measuring tape. End of the measuring tape is at the bung in the oil pan.



If I replace the 45 deg fitting at the oil pan that came with the kit with a strait fitting, I think I can get the hose on there... but it will have significant side loading on the fitting. That worries me.

No way in hell am I taking the turbo out in order to swap oil drain hoses... so is it possible to cut 4 inches out of a braided line, and add a new fitting to the cut end while standing under a car that is up on a lift?

Sigh

Keith

Twodoor

iTrader: (2)

Well, went to a local hydraulics supply shop this morning, and had them make me a 1 ft. long extension for the oil supply line, and a couple fitting to make this damn oil / water distribution block work. BEGi didn't include the bulkhead fitting to go on the distribution block for the oil supply line. I also purchased a barb fitting for the oil drain line... I will cut it strip off the steel braid from the end piece, and hose clamp it on.

I didn't realize how inexpensive custom made hydraulic line are. Cost me $20 for a hand full of fittings and a new hose. Makes me more likely to do custom lines for the Conquest when I start making it into a 1/4 mile beast!

Oh, to add insult to injury, the supplied bolt for mounting the oil / water distribution block to the head is too short. Only has 2 threds exposed when placed through the supplied spacer. It is M10 1.25 thread, so nobody local has a longer one. For now I will remove the spacer and use a few washers as a thinner spacer.

Keith

Monk

iTrader: (3)

I think there's a moral hidden in this build thread.

concealer404

iTrader: (3)

I think it'd be fun for you to send BeGi a bill for the parts you had to purchase/repair/have made to complete their kit.

Twodoor

iTrader: (2)

Yeah, if I ever do another Miata turbo system it will be a do it yourself build. I am going through all the troubles of a do it yourself, and paying the price of an engineered system.

Talked to Corky, and he says you can remove the end fitting, cut down the hose, and reinstall the fitting... so I will give that a shot. I also described how the compressor housing is touching the manifold, and his concern matched mine... just hoping I can loosen the V-band and lever it around a hair so they are not touching. If the ******* thing had a red ---- hair of quality control it would fit without hitting the manifold. I have no doubt that the manifold has the turbo just a bit to high... not something I can fix, but something that should have been discovered and corrected in Texas.

But quality control relies on having the damn parts built in a timely fashion, so you have time to check **** instead of throwing it in a box to send it off to the irate customer who has already been waiting 4 months.

Keith

Keith

Twodoor

iTrader: (2)

Installation (sort of) complete!

Due to having a thick radiator I had to "clearance mod" my passenger side radiator fan to make room for the intercooler pipe.



The intake pipe they sent me is for a car with a MAF sensor... I have MS3 and havn't had a MAF in forever. So I can't use the cold air box and my filter is in the hot engine bay. Also, the intake pipe was sized for a much smaller turbo, I had to get a reducing coupler to match it up to the tubo's size.






Here is a view with all the fluid lines attached and the wastegate installed.



Here it is with heat shields (sort of) installed. The one protecting brake reservoir and lines is held in by gravity... no mounting points line up.



Here is a mounting tab on my heat shield... in the middle of nowhere, not even close to anything it could bolt to. I suspect my heat shield is for a different year car.



I didn't take a picture of it, but my radiator cover is also held in by friction alone... none of the mounting hardware I was provided is even close to working with it.

Now to adjust my tune for the larger injectors and see if I can get it running!

Keith

18psi

iTrader: (76)

wowwwwwwwww dude

seriously. you need to tell Corky to open this thread and see this crap.

I mean seriously. wow. They need to refund you like $1000.

Twodoor

iTrader: (2)

Here is a list of all the things that were wrong:


The oil drain line was too long, I purchased a new one locally.

The oil supply line is too short, I purchased a 1 foot long extension hose locally.

No bulkhead fitting for the oil supply going through the water / oil distribution block, had to purchase one locally.

Wrong bolt (too short) to secure water / oil distribution block to the head.

The radiator cover doesn't seem to have any appropriate hardware, the bolts supplied are shorter than the stock ones. It is currently held in by friction and gravity.

I have a megasquirt, and was supplied the appropriate intercooler pipe with the bung for the GM intake air temp sensor, for running speed density... but the supplied air intake to the turbo is set up for use with an air flow meter.

The air intake pipe as well as being the wrong type had couplings for attaching to the turbo that were way to small for my turbo. I had to purchase a reducer coupling to go from the large turbo inlet down to the small intake pipe size.

The supplied heat shield seems to be for a different year car, or for a different turbo setup. No way any mounting tabs would line up with any bolts or studs, currently held in by friction and gravity.

I have one coolant leak from my heater line, but it had a leak before that I cured with a real hose clamp instead of the stock spring clamp... I forgot about that and used the stock clamp... should be able to fix this when the car cools down.

Only other leak is the radiator cap on the new radiator. System can't build pressure with the leak from the heater line, but there were wisps of steam from the radiator cap area.

I reprogramed my megasquirt for the 1000 cc/min injectors I was supposed to have gotten, and the car would start and then die from running dead lean. I kept adjusting the injector size down and trying again, until I finally got down to 450 cc/min and now the car runs great. I have to guess the injectors were miss-labeled or something because the flow sheet I got was for 1000 cc/min injectors.

So, I paid $350 to get injectors that are a whopping 25cc larger than the yellows I took out and sold for $100.

<sigh>

Keith

PS: I e-mailed Stephanie with all the above information, how do I get Corky to take notice other than calling him? With all the calls, there have been promises of new parts that will be sent, but no mention of getting any money back for all the crap I have had to purchase. The basic response to my complaint about not having install instructions was "man that's tough, call us during normal business hours if you get stuck."

Twodoor

iTrader: (2)

Injectors may be bigger than I thought... give it some throttle and it floods out. I may just need to adjust the latency table.

Keith

<edit> Nope, latency table corrections didn't help much if any. These injectors don't flow worth a **** at low pulse width, so at idle they work well if you put 450 as your injector size... but if you give it any throttle at all it goes dead rich and will hardly run. Set the ms3 to 1000 cc/min and the car will not run at idle or part throttle, and I am not going to do WOT testing when I can't even get the ******* car to run.

Damn it this sucks. I wonder if anyone else has used these injectors and figured out how to get them to work?

Do other 1000cc/min injectors have this problem? If not, I need to order some that actually work and return these pieces of ****. Already sold the RX8 injectors or I would put them back in for now. Can't really stock injectors on E85 with boost :(


Keith</edit>

concealer404

iTrader: (3)

Holy **** that's atrocious.

Twodoor

iTrader: (2)

Looks like all of the available injectors are like this. You set the flow rate and then richen the idle up by a huge amount. I will try that when I mess with it again later today.

Keith

18psi

iTrader: (76)

I'm not sure I follow you. I'll check my ID1000 maps.

*edit: nvm saw that thread

sixshooter

iTrader: (12)

That heat shield is for a stock location left front brake line. I don't understand what's going on with yours. The heat shield fits down lower if you don't have that strange adapter fitting on the master cylinder. That horizontal tab lays flat on the top of the frame rail and the hole bolts down under the master cylinder on that shelf.

18psi

iTrader: (76)

...and I hope you plan on replacing that plastic bpv asap, cause its gonna leak

Twodoor

iTrader: (2)

Yup, forgot to order it when ordered the"kit", ordered tial the other day.

Keith

Twodoor

iTrader: (2)

That fitting isn't what is holding it up, the wastegate tube is in the way. I suspect this heat shield works great on a S4 kit with internal gate.

The brake line routing is a result of breaking it off when doing the supercharger installation, and having to route it out of the way of the supercharger intake pipe.

Keith

curly

iTrader: (25)

I'm confused, different injectors act differently, is it a big deal to set req_fuel for 1000s, and richen up the cells a bit? Doesn't seem like a huge sacrifice.

Twodoor

iTrader: (2)

Check out the thread I started in the megasquirt section.

Not all cells, just the idle cells. I have upgraded injectors before, but always had them act in a linear fashion. Having the new injectors so massively non-linear in the low pulse width range is what threw me off.

Keith

Twodoor

iTrader: (2)

Car is running great now, smooth and with good A/F ratio's. Only problem is my wastegate is stuck shut! I figure it is a simple installation issue, sometimes the "fire ring" on the Tial gates can jam the wastegate shut on a new installation. I will pull it off and pop it loose and then re-install it... and then into tuning of the boost areas of the map!

Got that coolant leak fixed with a worm gear clamp on the heater hose connection at the firewall, and figuring out that you can turn the cap too far on the mishimoto... the radiator neck doesn't have a stop at the max tightness point... if you are pushing down on the cap as you put it on you go right past where you need to stop turning it.

Now if BEGi can get me the correct heat shield, and correct intake pipe I will be feeling great! The heat shield I have now sort of works (being against the wastegate tube it heats up some) but it rattles and is annoying since it isn't bolted down.

Keith

PS: Felt really good passing through 10 psi up to where I let off at 12

DNMakinson

iTrader: (3)

What are the negative effects of it leaking?

Are you referring to it leaking under idle, or under boost?