My attempt at "getting good" GT3076R
#221
Senior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Jonesboro Arkansas
Posts: 553
Total Cats: 25
That compressor is rough! Imagine how awesome it'd spool with a fresh new balanced wheel.
Your mileage might improve slightly on longer gears on highway since you're not winding out as high. But around town, the road will have more mechanical advantage, so city miles might drop a bit.
Your mileage might improve slightly on longer gears on highway since you're not winding out as high. But around town, the road will have more mechanical advantage, so city miles might drop a bit.
#225
That's a BEGI manifold, right? Same turbo location as the old 90s-era BEGIs and current FM2s? The standard approach FM uses is to assemble the turbo & manifold to each other on the bench and then put them on together. On my car this entails loosening the nut on the driver's side motor mount (the one to the subframe) and using a crowbar to pull the motor over. It'll pivot a few degrees on the passenger side motor mount, which gives enough angle to get the manifold+turbo assembly over the exhaust studs. Works best with two people.
--Ian
#226
(I'm assuming this is an actual Garrett and not an ebay/churbo)
--Ian
#227
Elite Member
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: New Fucking Jersey
Posts: 3,890
Total Cats: 143
My impression is that none of the GT-series turbos are DIY rebuildable. If the wheel is trashed, then the usual recommendation I hear is to talk to ATP (https://www.atpturbo.com) and they'll give you a discount on a new CHRA if you send in your trashed one.
(I'm assuming this is an actual Garrett and not an ebay/churbo)
--Ian
(I'm assuming this is an actual Garrett and not an ebay/churbo)
--Ian
Email: joshds25@yahoo.com
Site: http://www.jdsperformanceturbos.com/
Ebay: https://www.ebay.com/itm/322147341128?ul_noapp=true
Edit: No personal experience. Just heard good things.
#229
Senior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Jonesboro Arkansas
Posts: 553
Total Cats: 25
That's a BEGI manifold, right? Same turbo location as the old 90s-era BEGIs and current FM2s? The standard approach FM uses is to assemble the turbo & manifold to each other on the bench and then put them on together. On my car this entails loosening the nut on the driver's side motor mount (the one to the subframe) and using a crowbar to pull the motor over. It'll pivot a few degrees on the passenger side motor mount, which gives enough angle to get the manifold+turbo assembly over the exhaust studs. Works best with two people.
--Ian
#230
Senior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Jonesboro Arkansas
Posts: 553
Total Cats: 25
I think JDS does this as well.
Email: joshds25@yahoo.com
Site: jdsperformanceturbos.com
Ebay: https://www.ebay.com/itm/322147341128?ul_noapp=true
Edit: No personal experience. Just heard good things.
Email: joshds25@yahoo.com
Site: jdsperformanceturbos.com
Ebay: https://www.ebay.com/itm/322147341128?ul_noapp=true
Edit: No personal experience. Just heard good things.
I kinda lean this way but if its a cheap fix than it might be worth it. Do you think this would bite me later on if I leave it as is for a while?
#236
Senior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Jonesboro Arkansas
Posts: 553
Total Cats: 25
Well looks like I'm getting schooled here. I guess I'm going to have to find a way to go studs to prevent further headaches.
Looks like a full rebuild with a billet wheel will be $500. Thats with a new anti-surge housing. I feel like that would help since I still have a bit of compressor surge. I'm still playing with BOV ideas to reduce that to nothing. I might be able to swing that. The next thing is picking studs and everything. I don't think I can use the off shelf stud kits since I am changing the diameter of the holes.
Looks like a full rebuild with a billet wheel will be $500. Thats with a new anti-surge housing. I feel like that would help since I still have a bit of compressor surge. I'm still playing with BOV ideas to reduce that to nothing. I might be able to swing that. The next thing is picking studs and everything. I don't think I can use the off shelf stud kits since I am changing the diameter of the holes.
#237
Former Vendor
iTrader: (31)
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Sunnyvale, CA
Posts: 15,442
Total Cats: 2,099
BOV has nothing to do with real compressor surge. You might get a little surge on throttle lift, but a good BOV will take care of that. Real compressor surge happens at low RPM/high flow, always during spoolup, when the motor simply isn't capable of ingesting the flow the turbo is asking it to ingest, and the whole mess reverses direction at WOT. It is one of the most terrifying noises I've ever heard a car emit, it destroys turbos real quick, and that's what anti-surge housings fix.
#238
Well looks like I'm getting schooled here. I guess I'm going to have to find a way to go studs to prevent further headaches.
Looks like a full rebuild with a billet wheel will be $500. Thats with a new anti-surge housing. I feel like that would help since I still have a bit of compressor surge. I'm still playing with BOV ideas to reduce that to nothing. I might be able to swing that. The next thing is picking studs and everything. I don't think I can use the off shelf stud kits since I am changing the diameter of the holes.
Looks like a full rebuild with a billet wheel will be $500. Thats with a new anti-surge housing. I feel like that would help since I still have a bit of compressor surge. I'm still playing with BOV ideas to reduce that to nothing. I might be able to swing that. The next thing is picking studs and everything. I don't think I can use the off shelf stud kits since I am changing the diameter of the holes.
--Ian
#239
Senior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Jonesboro Arkansas
Posts: 553
Total Cats: 25
BOV has nothing to do with real compressor surge. You might get a little surge on throttle lift, but a good BOV will take care of that. Real compressor surge happens at low RPM/high flow, always during spoolup, when the motor simply isn't capable of ingesting the flow the turbo is asking it to ingest, and the whole mess reverses direction at WOT. It is one of the most terrifying noises I've ever heard a car emit, it destroys turbos real quick, and that's what anti-surge housings fix.
Ok then that will cheapen this fix up a bit. I'm going to have to just go a different route on the BOV. I have a Tial 50mm there is only a second of chirp at WOT between shifts then when a ease off at WOT a slow cho-cho-cho-psss. (you know the sound) I've run over sized lines to it and played with the springs so it may be time to move to something else.
#240
Elite Member
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: New Fucking Jersey
Posts: 3,890
Total Cats: 143
I mean, you don't have to get the anti surge housing, but depending on how much it adds, it might not be so bad to spring for it.
Are you running ebc? Lawone had a post talking about off throttle surge with ebc. Mbc fixed it for him, but you may have some luck with a higher frequency on the ebc? I'm going to attempt that next for my setup.
Are you running ebc? Lawone had a post talking about off throttle surge with ebc. Mbc fixed it for him, but you may have some luck with a higher frequency on the ebc? I'm going to attempt that next for my setup.