My attempt at "getting good" GT3076R
 

So I've been lurking this forum a lot here lately and thought it might be cool to post my build and see what you guys think. Maybe use this thread to document my labor as time goes on.

Here is a previous build:
https://www.miataturbo.net/build-thr...pics%2A-80727/
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I've been in miatas 13 ish years now, I'm to a point where I am done with ebay crap and am trying to do this right. I sold my msm in hopes of starting in a better direction. I was left with two choices, grab a clean low mileage stock miata and mod it up or grab one that was going in the direction I wanted.

So I bought this 99 miata, the previous owner pored his retirement money into this trying to add power, and really nothing else. This car made power but had no supporting mods. So I bought it super cheap and have been trying to make it my own since. I've got a book of receipts for every single bolt added to the car, its a lot of documentation.... If you want to see it all, I have an excel I can post on here. Any who, I got the car cheap and have been trying to make it better. Since I got the car in October 2016 I've added soooooo much to the car.

I'm posting to show my work and get input on what to improve upon.

The basics:

Motor:
Wiseco Piston Set 1.8BP 83.5mm
Enghine Bore and hone block vating
Supertech Valvespring set with retainers
ARP Head StudsHead GasketBearing set (enghine, thrust, and rod)
Injector O-Ring, rear main, oil cooler, injector
Mazdaspeed motor mounts

Fuel:
Flyin miata DRT Fuel rail
marshall fuel pressure gauge
Precision Peak and hold injectors 780cc
aeromotive fuel pressure regulator 13109
turbosmart fuel rail adaptor
walbro 255

Turbo:
BEGI cast manifold 99 miata with ex wastgate with option
Precision GT3076R
Turbosmart boost controller
tial 50mm BOV
tial 38mm wastegate

Wheels:
TR Motorsport 15x9
Toyo R1R 225/45/15
meteki lugs

Suspension
:FM suspension kit stage 2 v-maxx
FM sway bars
V-maxx 504lb 336lb

Sound:
blaupunkt GTx 803 DE 260w 8"
pioneer head unit
dynomat in doors
kenwood 400w amp

Trans:
ACT Extreme
Torsen 4.10 diff from 04 msm

Cooling:
Megan Racing radiator

Electronics
:nemisis ECU 2.6
AEM Windeband
AEM Boost gauge

Exhaust:Begi downpipe
External wastegate dump
2.5" turbo back

Safety:
Hard Dog Double diag
Hard Dog Harness bar
Hard Dog in door bar
Sparco Sprint
Sparco 5 point

Braking:
Wilwood 4 Piston all around with lines and ebrake
wilwood end caps for bleeders
redline DOT4
wilwood bleeder valve

Other stuff:
Hard top
garagestar stuff
V1 diffuser

I'm sure I'm missing stuff but that's the highlights.

I'm looking to make this a great street car that can do track days every now and then, so my next project will be nailing the cooling by making shourds and throwing in a cross flow, then getting Abe to make me 3" exhaust so I can enjoy a more civilized ride, the wastegate dump is loud.

The car currently makes about 250-300rwhp I say about because it made 258rwhp with a completely bad WB02, I fixed that and haven't redynoed. The car is in dire need for a retune. I want to fix all the problems on the car before I retune it. When I got the car, all the vacum lines and such had to be either reran or replaced do to age or bad placement.
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Here is the bay after I got it and as I made changes

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Lots of pics, I love taking pics so deal with it.

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looks like someone likes to polish metal.....
nice car

Thanks, The previous owner did the valve cover and I just continued the theme. BTW that takes a ton of work

This was my base dyno, before I fixed well anything. There is some compression surge, Its a BOV thing, stupid spring issue on the tial 50mm. I could go on. I needed a baseline and to see what the car was doing.
247hp 233tq uncorrected such a heart breaker. I later found SOOOOO many boost leaks and vacuum leaks that had to be fixed along with a bad WB02. I think it's closer to 300hp. I sent the current tune to FM, they told me the current tune is not the best so I'm making preparations to get it re-tuned at the end of the year. This car can do so much more than what it is. I'm not sure what I want out of it though, I need some thoughts on that. 300 seems pretty good for a street car esp with this turbo. I know I could go much higher.

Photo bucket is being lame, I'll get the dyno graph up here later.





Here is my old miata, it made 192hp I forgot the tq but not bad considering it's a very lightly modded msm.

Oh man. Glad you're getting that stuff figured out!

How long did it take you to polish the valve cover, intake manifold etc? It looks fantastic!

Me too, I've got loads of drive coming up. I'm going to Deal Gap this year too:
Miatas at the Gap

It took forever to polish everything. It takes a lot of time. Esp if you've never done it before.

I bet this is the saddest GT3076R dyno on this forum. This was at 15psi with a completely failed 02 sensor, my aem was showing 11 afr.

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My next issue to fix is a fuel leak, my car smells like gas but I can't pinpoint the problem. I think it is about my pressure regulator. I still get 28mpg so it can't be a massive leak. I got this stuff to add to my fuel and use a black light to track down leaks.

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I'm also going to throw this on there when I get the leak sorted out. The car didn't come with and under tray cover so why buy a new one for $80 shipped when I can get this for $125 Here's the link to them:
NA Miata Aluminum Aero Undertray I can add the other pieces to it later.


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thats solid power considering all the issues.
300 is more than enough for street car.
congrats, nice progress

His posted dyno shows 250. Are you saying that he's going to make 300 easily with his setup and that's plenty or am I missing something?

If you can't find the leak, you might want to consider that under boost you are probably venting crankcase fumes out that funky vented catch can. :dunno:

-current power is solid despite issues
-his planned power of 300 is more than enough and should be easily attainable

The oil catch can does not seem ideal. I've been reading this thread:
https://www.miataturbo.net/engine-pe...-thread-78293/
Any thoughts on this would be welcome

I think I'm going to have to change it. That was a before I got it deal. The fittings are also massive, I think some smaller ones are in order as well.

Nothing wrong with massive fittings, I am sure some of us are drooling over them.

Here is some messing round I did earlier. This first video it jumps rpm at the end, thats my ecu saving me. I blew a line off my boost controller. lol Thats fixed now.

So I've been reading lots of forums including this one and there seems to be several schools of though on oil catch cans. Many say that my current setup is bad and could be why my car has an odd gasoline-ish smell after running it hard. While some say my setup is fine. I really need some help with this.I'm thinking about running a dual setup like this one. It will require me to modify my valve cover or grab an unmolested one to work with.

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Good luck with the LRB under tray. I bought one for my NA and was not overly happy with it. I ended up going back to a stock one.

Not sure what you are wasting your time reading other forums for.
Can't find yer fuel leak huh?
The diagram will work fine with your valve cover.
The only issue with the diagram is the hot side needs to be downstream from the air filter. I did all this and now I only get the PCV smell when my BOV opens. I am trying to recirculate it further downstream from the air filter in my garage now, before Wednesday night drags.

I won't say it again, the fuel smell is coming from your vented catch can. It should be sealed. Look at how the OEM's do it, you don't smell that in a factory turbo car.

Also seems like it will create a boost leak, unless you have a cool modified PCV valve between the can and the IM.

But then WTF do I know :dunno: