My crapp DIY junk build
#41
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Do you have a boost gauge? Perhaps you are getting waste gate flutter or surge on the compressor. That's a pretty big compressor on a small engine and you are running a lower pressure ratio on the compressor side with what I would consider a large turbine AR on a 1.6L.
Just an idea from a newb. Experts can chime in and tell me how it is. ;^)
Just an idea from a newb. Experts can chime in and tell me how it is. ;^)
I would say you may have a point with the turbo sizing theory, however it does it n/a too, and not just WOT with the turbo.
I'm thinking it has to be a ground/power wire issue. I haven't really had much time to mess with it lately.
#43
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Just an update, installed the MBC and meth injection today, however for now I'm only running 0 degree windshield washer fluid, which is roughly 25% meth because I haven't ordered any yet.
Tomorrow I'll be turning up the boost to about 15 psi and using MLV live to start dialing in the fuel map.
I switched my vacuum routing around some, so hopefully that helps the crazy map readings, I also ordered a inline power conditioner but it's not in yet.
Soon I'll be building det cans and adding in some timing after I get fueling squared away.
I'll be sure to post spool logs at 15psi or so
Tomorrow I'll be turning up the boost to about 15 psi and using MLV live to start dialing in the fuel map.
I switched my vacuum routing around some, so hopefully that helps the crazy map readings, I also ordered a inline power conditioner but it's not in yet.
Soon I'll be building det cans and adding in some timing after I get fueling squared away.
I'll be sure to post spool logs at 15psi or so
#45
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As for the 15psi, I'm thinking with the forged rods and meth injection I should be okay, however I'll step it up slowly to get there. As long as my tune is good and I have enough fueling I'm pretty sure I should be good.
#47
Did you do forged rods and stock pistons?
I'm thinking about rebuilding the same, but want to see someone in the 250-300whp with an intact motor before I go saving myself $400 just to spend another $1500.
EDIT: Glad you've got the WI going. I've been running nothing but "super blue" for months now and love it. Look at your local Big Lots for the -20* Power Blaster stuff, which is nearly 40% meth. It did tweak the AFRs a bit. So I tuned fuel map without WI, but a little on the lean side (12.0:1), and then just put in the relay and haven't touched fuel since.
I'm thinking about rebuilding the same, but want to see someone in the 250-300whp with an intact motor before I go saving myself $400 just to spend another $1500.
EDIT: Glad you've got the WI going. I've been running nothing but "super blue" for months now and love it. Look at your local Big Lots for the -20* Power Blaster stuff, which is nearly 40% meth. It did tweak the AFRs a bit. So I tuned fuel map without WI, but a little on the lean side (12.0:1), and then just put in the relay and haven't touched fuel since.
#49
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Did you do forged rods and stock pistons?
I'm thinking about rebuilding the same, but want to see someone in the 250-300whp with an intact motor before I go saving myself $400 just to spend another $1500.
EDIT: Glad you've got the WI going. I've been running nothing but "super blue" for months now and love it. Look at your local Big Lots for the -20* Power Blaster stuff, which is nearly 40% meth. It did tweak the AFRs a bit. So I tuned fuel map without WI, but a little on the lean side (12.0:1), and then just put in the relay and haven't touched fuel since.
I'm thinking about rebuilding the same, but want to see someone in the 250-300whp with an intact motor before I go saving myself $400 just to spend another $1500.
EDIT: Glad you've got the WI going. I've been running nothing but "super blue" for months now and love it. Look at your local Big Lots for the -20* Power Blaster stuff, which is nearly 40% meth. It did tweak the AFRs a bit. So I tuned fuel map without WI, but a little on the lean side (12.0:1), and then just put in the relay and haven't touched fuel since.
Thanks about the tip for the Big Lots brand, I'll try there, so far I've tried ORielly's (sp) and Wal Mart and all they have is the 0 degree kind, it could be my location though.
I'm on my way outside to take it for a drive, I'll be back soon with logs of terror
#50
Yeah for a cheap starter mani it's awesome but I'm alittle wiser now so it's time to upgrade. I was running off the wastegate which was supposed to 8psi but my boost gauge took a dump so I don't know exactly what it was making or if it was creeping any. But about 4k is when she started to open up
#51
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Yeah for a cheap starter mani it's awesome but I'm alittle wiser now so it's time to upgrade. I was running off the wastegate which was supposed to 8psi but my boost gauge took a dump so I don't know exactly what it was making or if it was creeping any. But about 4k is when she started to open up
I just got back from driving it, and had multiple fails.
Fail #1. I redid my wastegate sourcing, making it come from the intake piping right before the TB, I also added a MBC. I think the routing is too far away or something, because I couldnt get it to stop overshooting past 17psi even though I back the MBC out almost all the way.
Fail #2. I need to tune my WI better, It's kicking on way too soon and I think the pump pressure is way too high. Last night I was adjusting it, using my HF compression tester gauge, which should work right?
Anyways, the way it was sent to me, the pressure jumped up to like 170psi. I turned it down to 90ish psi, but it pulsed really bad, and I thought that would be bad, so I turned it back up so that it wouldnt pulse too much.
Should I turn it down to 90 or so (which is what I should be running for my nozzle size) and just ignore the pulsing? Or does my compression tester gauge not read fluid correctly? (stupid question probably)
On to Fail #3. After the last pull I did trying to adjust the MBC, the violent jolt from the spark overboost cut sent my water pump/ alt belt flying off into the great unknown. I luckily was close to home and limped it home. I really hope I didnt blow the head gasket.
Does anyone have any suggestions for the WI? If my gauge was reading correctly, then I think I should turn it down to 90-100 psi and adjust my onset point for the WI to 6-7 psi. Thanks
#53
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I took it off and turned it around, but it still wanted to twist back. I really should have just bought a new one, oh well.
#54
Everything I've read on the diaphragm pumps and WI nozzles said you want to be at a minimum 150psi pressure.
As far as it coming on...you want to adjust your pressure switch. I had a nice Nason adjustable from DevilsOwn that was DOA. I used a Hobbs 4psi NO...which I took the rubber cap off of and adjust up to 8-9psi.
As far as it coming on...you want to adjust your pressure switch. I had a nice Nason adjustable from DevilsOwn that was DOA. I used a Hobbs 4psi NO...which I took the rubber cap off of and adjust up to 8-9psi.
#55
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There was one great plus to today's drive though, I guess moving my MAP point for the MS was the ticket, it's not perfect still, but it's way better:
Before:
After, note the boost overshoot, and the 15.5psi at 4700 rpm, not fast by any means, but it's a big turbo on a small motor:
Before:
After, note the boost overshoot, and the 15.5psi at 4700 rpm, not fast by any means, but it's a big turbo on a small motor:
#56
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Everything I've read on the diaphragm pumps and WI nozzles said you want to be at a minimum 150psi pressure.
As far as it coming on...you want to adjust your pressure switch. I had a nice Nason adjustable from DevilsOwn that was DOA. I used a Hobbs 4psi NO...which I took the rubber cap off of and adjust up to 8-9psi.
As far as it coming on...you want to adjust your pressure switch. I had a nice Nason adjustable from DevilsOwn that was DOA. I used a Hobbs 4psi NO...which I took the rubber cap off of and adjust up to 8-9psi.
I dont mind running a higher pump pressure, it flows better and everything, it's just I'm running a far to large nozzle for 150psi I think. (5gph nozzle)
Thanks everyone for all the suggestions
#57
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Oh yeah, one more good thing to note, MLV live is awesomezz. Way better than log, MLV, ve analy, burn, log, MLV, ve analy, burn, log, and so on and so on.
I also was running a different timing map today, which was much smoother, it's one that Joe Perez posted a while ago, a hybrid of the DIY base map and Y8's map. Worked pretty well for what short time I got to drive it.
I also was running a different timing map today, which was much smoother, it's one that Joe Perez posted a while ago, a hybrid of the DIY base map and Y8's map. Worked pretty well for what short time I got to drive it.
#60
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Those logs were from the driving I got to do before it came off.