My SR20T25 Artech/homemade build
 

Well, it is raining and I got everything I wanted to get done in the Miata. Time to post my build thread.

It all started with a 1990 JRSC Miata that Hhammerly (my uncle) built. I bought it from him in August. We used to race it at the autocrosses locally and the supercharger was lots of fun, but I wanted a little more power.
Here are the pictures of the engine bay the way I bought it from Hhammerly.
Water to air intercooler and running MSPNP1

https://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/12...673/ABuCOh.jpg

https://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/12...905/1cCT1b.jpg

I know you guys do not prefer superchargers but this setup was fun. I posted the whole setup for sale here and clubroadster.com ...and of course, not one hit here but I manage to sell it for $1000 at the other forum in less than 1 week.

Now I had $1000 to play with and get the turbo installed. I got this t25 turbo and Tial wastegate from the zilvia.net forum for only $130 shipped for both. The turbo did not have much play but I still bought a g-pop rebuild kit and rebuilt it myself for under $100

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1412962471

I decided to stay with the 1.6L because of my budget and the fact that the engine was rebuilt about 10000 miles ago, it had been running with the SC with no problems.

I tried to source a used exhaust manifold but could not find one so I had Abe made me this one, he is shipping it tomorrow. He alredy had a t25 and a Tial f38 EWG in his shop so I didnt even need to send them mine for mock up. All he needed was me to provide the EWG flange, which I got at atpturbo

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1412962471

Next on the list was the power steering, I was going to keep the PS but decided to depower mine the proper way. I did it per flyin miata instructions, and also welded the steering shaft (sorry no pictures of that) for less flex. Flyin Miata fails to mention you should change these washers when you remove the inner tie rods, you also need a 30mm combination wrench, which I got from Amazon for $10 and grinded the end so it would fit on the inner tie rod (the space for the wrench is 8mm wide, the wrench was 12mm wide).

http://i1371.photobucket.com/albums/...g?t=1412959474

I decided to keep the AC and I did not like the idea of putting tension on the belt by sliding washers under the compressor so I got the Kia tensioner and it fits perfectly.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1412962471

Part number

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1412962471

In the mean time, I bought the Mazda RX7 10mm studs for the turbo to manifold and stage 8 10 x 1.5mm nuts. I had to put the turbo in a lathe and enlarge the holes because it comes drilled for 8mm studs. The stage 8 10mm nuts fit perfectly.
I will have to drill Artechs manifold because it is drilled for 8mm studs

http://i1371.photobucket.com/albums/...g?t=1412959613

I also got brand new studs for the exhaust side of the turbo, tried to install them but the threads are quite rusty, so I ordered a m8x 1.25 tap to chase the threads and try again. I also got Resbond from Mcmaster, (it was not cheap ~$40) Here are the Nissan studs, they are supposed to be inconel too

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1412962471

I also got these "inconel" bolts from Nissan. I will use them for the EWG

http://i1371.photobucket.com/albums/...g?t=1412959503

Nordlock washers from Mcmaster the keep everything tight

Attachment 184641

I had hhammerly weld the BOV outlet (weird 1 3/8 od) to the intercooler and got a Mitsubishi BOV, the one Begi sells. Buy it from the dealer and its only $56. I tapped the back of the cold side of the intercooler and added a 90 degree barb for the EWG boost source.

Attachment 184642

Here is the BOV and part number

Attachment 184643

I also tapped to intake manifold and added some barb fittings for vacuum and BOV source

Attachment 184644

Here is the turbo water supply

Attachment 184645

And the water return, on the Honda thermostat housing that Hhammerly had made for the coolant reroute.

Attachment 184646

I bought the artech oil/water lines from a member here. Mock up placement

Attachment 184647

Modified and painted the heater core tube so its far far away from the turbo. The reason why it has another nipple on it is because that is necessary to supply a constant flow of water for the Honda thermostat.

Attachment 184648

Hhammerly had modified a OBX header and added a 2.5" collector and flex pipe to it. I plan on chopping it where the arrow is and weld my future downpipe there.

Attachment 184649

And finally, I added insulation to all the heater/radiator hoses.

Attachment 184650


My goal is to use this 1.6l until it gives up then build a 1.8l. I hope I can get it to run close to 180hp at 10-12 psi. We shall see.
Things to do will be to finish the intercooler piping and made a downpipe and dump tube. Hopefully I will get the exhuast manifold from Abe early next week. My MSPNP was dyno tuned for the JRSC so it should not be too far away to run decent with the turbo.
Any comments and suggestions are appreciated. Keep in mind I am trying to stay close to $1000

Impressive start. What Engine Management?

MSPNP1.

I have been reading about EBC with MSPNP1 not working properly. Should I go with a MBC instead?

This is looking promising. Car looks clean! Got any exterior shots?

I also did an SR20 setup on my car. My thread is in my signature. On my 1.8, I am at 202 whp around 11 psi. Running MSPNP2 and a MBC.

I have an MS1 and I use a Greddy Profec EBC with much joy and success. Never tried the MS EBC.

Is yours a 1.6 or 1.8? From what I read the problem is the 1.6 on-off tps.

Never mind. I just looked at the greddy ebc looks like it's a standalone unit? But it's $450 new. At that price I rather get an ms2 and use the MS ebc

Loved that car, my son is still crying over it, he wanted it really bad...
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1412977190
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1412977190

Quality used Greddy and HKS EBC setups can be had for cheap.

New, i've had good luck with the Turbosmart E-Boost and Go Fast Bits G-Force units.

Mine was $60 on CL.

Updates
 

I made the downpipe this weekend out of 409 stainless, well...tack welded it and HHammerly tig welded it (thanks!), total cost was $50 (2 180degree dynomax bends from Summit) plus the Vibrant flange $30. One of the holes in the flange was a little off so it had to be enlarged. Thankfully Hhammerly as a lathe that took care of it.
Also, we machined a blank piece of metal to cover the internal wastegate hole.

The downpipe is 2" for the first bend to 2.5". The rest of the exhaust was recently made out of 304 stainless + nice metal core cat so I will leave it the way it is.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1414505253

I reused the flexpipe that came with the car

http://i1371.photobucket.com/albums/...g?t=1414418804

Downpipe has a good 1" clearance on both sides. I also made the dumptube and made a bracket to attach it to the transmission. The middle section of the dumptube was made with this http://www.sfxperformance.com/parts/VIB84027.htm , hopefully it lasts.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1414505738
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1414505738

Finished the intercooler piping. Straight shot!!!!

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1414505738

And here is a close up pic of how everything fits snugly. Thanks Abe for the awesome manifold. The last turbo setup I had was from Begi, making your own stuff actually makes everything easier and fits better.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1414505738

I have to install the stage 8 retaining clips, I was too lazy at the time.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1414505738

I was going to post these just in case you didn't have decent pictures of your own, but it seems you do. I'm posting them anyways. :giggle:

Ladies and gentlemen, what we have here is an example of w2a intercooler that WORKS.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1415631950

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1415631950

Thanks man, I wish I would have started this thread under "Builds". But I guess its also a DIY, except the artech manifold.
Thanks for tuning my enrichments, the car drives better. I got it to idle better this morning too. Get ready for some autocrosses next spring!

There's still some work to do there, and i'm not taking all the credit for it. :bowrofl:

We can have an autocross showdown in Spring if i can find the time/space to do the suspension on mine. That shit is hilariously bad.

please do a pull from 2k to full boost in 1:1 gear and post log or screen shot of spoolup

if you get a chance

It's a 1.6. It spools kinda slow-ish, but it's very linear and docile.

I can move this to builds.

Do you have a link to where you got your RX7 turbo studs and fastening hardware?

Yea I can do it next week. I'm using the stock diyautotune spark map...timing needs work. Curly was nice enough to give me his but I don't want to test it until I get in the dyno with a det-can. I also think it will spool up faster with a ebc. I have a mbc now, I wanted to go step by step. Cops are next

Thank you!

Online from a Georgia dealer. Any dealer should have them. Cheapest place to buy stage 8 is amazon.

So today I went to the garage to try and start the car in 20 degree weather. As soon as I plug my laptop in, I notice the VTPS is not working properly. The tps % and DC would not change at all when pushing on the accelerator and the values would slowly rise over time... what can cause this? It was working properly last week.
Also the lowest the coolant temperature goes is around 55 degrees, even though my garage is way colder than that? Is the sensor bad?

Any help is appreciated

I bought another vtps sensor from ebay for $30. We'll see if it works. I soldered all the connections and used heat shrink so I doubt it is a short on the wires.

I suppose I need to recalibrate my coolant sensor as well.

New wheels and tires!
 

A few more updates, the local Bridgestone supplier was selling old stock new Bridgestones. I really wanted 205s but he only had 2 left, so I went ahead and bought 4 195/50-15 RE11s for $200, yes, $200.
I had plans to sell my current 15x6.5 Konig Heliums and get a set of 15x9 6uls. Well, since I have 195 tires I opted for a set of 15x8 Konig Dial in. I will use 205/225 after the Re11s wear out, they are a little stretched but not bad for a 195 on a 8" wide wheel.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1418339373

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1418339373

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1418339373

I also bought a set of toyota coils from ebay for $50 and the connectors at the local junkyard and made my own COP harness. Wrapped it with sleeving from Mcmaster and used their high temp self fusing silicone tape.
I sandblasted the valve cover today and will have HHammerly weld aluminum standoffs to bolt the coils. I think it looks cleaner and is cheaper than buying the hold down bracket for the coils.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1418339373

Nice looking wheels and COP job

Here is the finished valve cover with the COP setup. I painted it with VHT wrinkle paint.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1418923304

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1418923304

Nice!!!

Braineack is going to yell at you for having the COP plugs pointing forward with the harness at the rear :giggle:

Personally I think it looks swell :bigtu:

If I made the harness again I would have the COPS pointing the other way and tuck the harness next to the fuel rail. Oh well, I think it looks decent and the entire thing cost me under $100

Here is a log of a 4th gear pull. Im not sure why the boost graph oscillates so much when it reaches around 7psi. Maybe is the wastegate spring moving up and down. Its a 5.8psi spring maybe I need a 10psi spring

Now that I installed the COPS the car knocks badly at 2000rpms in 2nd gear, with very light load, its a weird sound. Is this normal with the COPS?

You sure it's knocking? Or is it misfiring?

Take video.

It sounds like a clear knock to me, from the engine, literally like someone knocking on a door really fast. Ill take you on a ride.

Sure, text me. I've got nothing going on this weekend that i know of. I'll be rolling in the Jeep, though. :giggle:

Any updates on the car? I love the intercooler setup and DIY aspect of this build.

Thanks! I installed a sparco sprint seat and will dyno tune it March 13th. I will post pics of the seat brackets. I also installed a catch can. I'll upload pics tonight.

It was just a rattle from the exhaust!

Awesome!

Wanna give me a hand with the Barney car this weekend? :D

Yea I can probably help you Saturday! txt me

Seat brackets and Sparco seat
 

I bought a Sparco Sprint and decided to make my own seat brackets.
I was going to mount the seat through its bottom with the original seat rails but it made the seat to seat too high.
Bought a 36" x 3" x 4" x 1/4" thick piece of 6061 aluminum online and with the help of Harold made these brackets. They are not the nicest but they are very sturdy. Installing the seats with the side mount brackets allowed me to get them a little lower and in perfect position (for me haha). I guess I'll bring a cushion for short co-drivers when I autocross.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1424386727
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1424386727
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1424386727
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1424386727

Momo steering wheel
 

I bought a Momo 350mm steering wheel from Ebay for $85 shipped. Its a little old and worn but it feels nice and since I dont have PS 350mm was the right choice for me.

I bought a grant steering wheel 3 bolt adapter for $25, a 3 bolt to 6 bolt adapter that was very very good quality for $7.95 shipped!!! (Accutronix Momo to Grant Steering Wheel Adapter | eBay)
and I used a 2.5" extension, also from "flashpower" from Ebay for $45.
Total investment = $138. I've seen people sell just a Momo wheel for $150.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1424387178
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1424387178

Stock steering wheel distance from the blinker
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1424387178
New setup
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1424387178
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1424387178

Photos from the drag strip https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1429322921
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1429322921

How are those brackets still holding out for you? I am wanting to do something similar with my Kirkey. I knocked out the rear mounts and plan on bolting them to the floor. You feel they are sturdy enough for you?

I got pci brackets, they position the seat more aligned with the steering wheel. I can sell you those I made for $10 plus shipping if you want them

I should have waited to order the material. I ordered 36" 4 x 4 6061-T6 like 2 days ago for almost $50. I think you could easily get that price out of those in the FS section. I am a bit worried about placement with making my own brackets. I had some issues with alignment when bolting the stock seat rails to my Kirkey.

Very nice build. Where can I get more info on that A2W intercooler though?