nope, its boost activated. I think its a cool idea, I just worry about placement

Yes, I was concerned with O2 reading being off and intended to read up on it before making any cuts. (I was hoping that, since many people run separated wastegate tubes, I could still get a clean reading, even with diverting some of the exhaust. In hindsight, i doubt that'll work and plan to relocate the O2 bung to pre-cutout).

Leaking wasn't on my mind. After your comment, I placed the valve up to my mouth to see if I could pressurize/force air through it. Unfortunately, I can pretty easily, lol. So you concerns are warranted.

SO! Assuming I relocate the O2 bung, I'm still left trying to find good placement so I don't get exhaust in the car.

And for anyone wondering why I don't purchase a 3" exhaust: 1. I want to keep the noise down as to not bother the neighbors. 2. I want to keep my cat, for times where I'm not full on it. 3. This option will likely flow better than running through a full 3" exhaust. 4. 3" exhausts are expensive (though at this point, the idea is seeming more attractive).

Note: I obviously don't claim to know what's best here, so any recommendations are always welcomed :). I'm just here to have fun, after all.

You can rationalize it however you want but I haven't once bothered my housemates when I take the car out at night even though they're asleep. I'm running a Kraken 3 inch exhaust with the muffler swapped to a big Maggie.

Seeing you have to go through all this rigamarole for something that has such obvious solutions makes me sad....

I have a cheap electric cutout I'm planning on running for similar reasons. Quite when I want with better performance on demand.

I haven't mocked up an exhaust or anything, just took everything to the local muffler shop and got "yea I can do it, probably $200 or less".

In my head I'm hoping to have the O2 about 6" from the turbo and the cuttout about 6" from that... I want it before my stock cat. From my reading (mostly on v8 applications) should be fine at cruise and definitely ok at WOT but my affect idle. The farther back the cuttout is the more consistent the afrs will read so the easier it'll be to tune. I'm only planning on using it on "high boost" and WOT. I'll mostly drive around with low boost and it closed. (I think lol )

That's a little close to the Turbo with the O2 sensor

Can anyone explain to me why the Hallman Boost controller recommends NOT running anything to the top of an external wastegate and feeding boost through the side port, while the Precision Wastegate recommends running the boost controller into the top of the wategate?:

I will say: Following Precision's directions, reverses the way the boost controller works. (Tightening it compresses the spring, which feeds less pressure to the TOP of the wastegate diaphragm, allowing the wastegate to open SOONER = LESS boost. While with the internal wastegate, tightening the spring would still compress the spring, but feed less pressure to the BOTTOM of the diaphragm, allowing the the wastegate to open LATER = MORE boost). This means the adjustment dial on the boost controller now reads backwards. :dunno:

http://www.hallmanboostcontroller.co...tions%20ld.pdf
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...8f67b41609.png

https://www.precisionturbo.net/tech/...structions.pdf

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...b34eb561c1.png

If you have a 2-port EWG and an MS3, why are you screwing around with a manual boost controller?

--Ian

Nice!

But that turbo inlet/filter are terrible and likely hurting your power

Yeah, although maybe it's just a weird angle and I can't see it fully, but looks really small and restrictive.

Alright gents, here's a snap shot of some very very preliminary results. Still much more tuning to be done on the new setup. I also need to check for any hot-side pre-turbo leaks in the system.
As it sits now, it takes nearly 1000K RPMs more to hit 12psi lol :greddy:, but again, more tuning to come.

Other notes:

• This is a 4th gear vs 3rd gear pull. Make of that what you will
• Timing is dropping to 10.5 degrees at peak boost, and then ramps up to 12.5. I suspect it can take more.
• The exhaust cut out is working nicely! Doesn't leak enough to smell from within the cockpit. That said, I will be putting one additional pipe on it so it dumps further back and aimed at the ground (I'm tired of paying for welding so i plan to buy a basic MIG welder setup).
• After a few hard accelerations through the gears, the one roof latch pops open (I'm guessing from TQ?). Any thoughts on how to stop this?

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...b131949a05.png

Going from:

• T2 Manifold > T3 Manifold
• Internal Waste Gate > External Wastegate
• Fully 2.5" Exhaust > 2.5" Exhaust w/ 2.5" Cutout pre-cat

Seems to have been nearly enough to negate the additional lag of going from the Garrett GTX2867R to an eBay GT35R

Notes:

1. Ignore everything past 5K RPMs.
2. Remember my tune may the limiting factor and the setup may have no impact on spool
3. These pulls were made in 4th gear w/ a 6speed/3.9 rear. I'm confident spool would be better for both in 5th.
4. Yes, I'm running 30PSI on 93 pump. They are 8.4:1 pistons. Life is too short for low boost. I may end up lowering boost and raising timing back up though. We'll see.

Much more to come and hopefully one more track visit before the season is out.

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...e574a68d2d.jpg

Once again hitting 100+ injector duty cycle with anything over 27psi. I'll have to read up on whether it's the injectors (Injector Dynamics Fuel 1050X), the fuel pump (Deatschwerks dw300) or something else in the system

Are you sure you have it programmed right in tune? 100% duty cycle with those injectors and that pump in a miata would be a fuck ton of power. More so than that plot hints at.