NA6 TD04 Build
 

EDIT: My first post was due to me freaking about an issue and all I managed to do was confuse everyone. I'm leaving the original post unedited below but I actually start doing some stuff at post 16. Thanks to everyone that has helped and a pre-thanks to everyone that is going to help. I wouldn't be anything with out MT.net

I'm going to be strait. I need a lot of help. :sadwavey:

Quickish back info: Bought a 1990 na6 with 260kish miles on it for $1600ish. Leaked some oil but ran like a top. I installed a new top (Robins), got the AC working, installed a new timing kit/water pump and vinyl wrapped it to cover the bad paint.

Then one day I was passed hard by a minivan with a mom on her phone. This rooted a determination to add some power. I started reading and acquiring parts. Tight budget but highlights are: radiator, diy coolant re-route, Used ms2, rx7 injectors, Td04 turbo, a used 1.8 flywheel and a FM clutch. THEN oil leak level reached over 9000 (over a quart a week if memory serves). Also, throw hitting a deer into the mix somewhere. Pulled the engine, replaced all seals (except valve stems) that were coolant or oil related. Put it back together with the re-route, shifter rebuild, FM clutch and no O2 sensor installed. The (old) guys that were helping decided to finish up some stuff for me one day while I was at work and seared the cable off the OEM O2 sensor. We (wife) only had the miata and her car at the time so I ran it with no O2 for a while. Shortly after we got her a new car and had a baby (first child). So now we have three cars and the miata sat for a couple of months with little to no drive time (omg rain go away). I started driving it to work every day (10ish miles one way) because of miata withdrawals and to help motivate me to get out and finish it up.

The problems now:
Idles rough
way down on power
AC doesnt engage now
horrible bouncing/banging when trying to launch

I have the wideband O2 installed in narrowband mode as of yesterday, I thought that would help out some. It hasn't. I think my timing is off by a degree or two (8 or 9 before TDC). I'm going to get that set right in the next day or two. Then I will try to readjust the idle and see how it goes. The AC was engaging sometimes and sometimes it wasnt. Now it doesnt at all. I'm thinking (hoping) something electrical is loose. I really need it for defrosting the windscreen right now! The issue I'm most worried about though is "bouncing" during launch. Yesterday after installing the wideband (spartan II lambda) I took it for a drive. I decided to give it a hard launch... rev'ed it up, dropped the clutch and it shook and bounced hard while making a loud banging noise. I immediately pushed the clutch back in and drove it the 2mi or so back home like normal. I was kinda worried about it but I'm on summer tires and it was about 28f outside so I thought maybe it was wheel hop. I had never felt anything like it before. Tonight coming home from work it was a bit warmer and raining. It did the same thing. After that I set off like normal and then floored it and gave it a clutch kick and it spun the tires like you'd expect it to in the rain. Something is very wrong, I'm really worried about it and I have no idea what to do about it.

I'm very much a noob when it comes to mechanical stuff. I have changed alternators, starters (rebuilt one last time) and other basic stuff but that's it. To help paint the picture of noob... I didn't own any tools before buying the miata except screw drivers and a soldering iron. The idle and other stuff I think I may be able to handle myself but I don't know where to start on the "launching issue".

Seeing how this is a build thread I will throw up some obligatory pictures soon. Right now I'm just nervous about the car and I've gone to full "ask for help mode". The second launch in the rain was just about an hour ago.

(eh what the hell, here's some pictures of pre deer damage :
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...d37f7f45f1.jpg
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...b09ccb962c.jpg)

AC not working is probably as simple as the gas leaked out after a seal dried out while sitting.
I think the NA may also have a pressure switch on the AC that stops the compressor from kicking in if the gas is low.


As far as the other 3 go, have you pulled the spark plugs and checked them?
Getting spark on all 4?
they wet? black? white?

The fact you were running it without an o2 sensor at all, and also using a narrowband on a standalone ECU, there's a likely chance your tune isnt amazing.
Might be flooding on crank and then running like shit because it's fouled a plug. (plus isnt the entirety of the US basically Antarctica right now?, so cold starts may not have been done for temps that low)

Horribprobably sounds when clutch dump...a broken and or completely disconnected engine mount

Maybe check that the bracket connecting the trans to the PPF is connect

Ms2 isn't installed yet. Running narrowband on stock ECU for now. Car smooths out with a bit of gas...

Ugh... We did have a he'll of a time getting the engine seated on the mounts when putting it back in. I switched over to a (used) set of Mazda comp mounts also if it matters. I don't think we missed a mount but we damn well may have. I should be able to throw it on the lift this weekend and I'll check it out. I hope it's that easy.

I'm picking up a 1.8 rear this weekend don't know when I'll have time to install it. I'll check the PPF when I get it on the lift though, not sure how I could botch that but anything's possible.

Thanks guys O7

Make sure all the ground straps are clean and tight and were actually installed.

Oof. I have one extra ground strap that came off, I think, on the passenger side. I don't remember where it came from but I wanna say it came from the starter/trans/ and went to the block. All the other grounds I thought were part of the harness...

I'll grab a picture of the unistalled ground strap when I get home :hs:

How are you expecting the car to do much of anything idle/power wise if you're still running the stock 1.6 ECU and have Rx7 injectors?

My mistake on the confusion. I was in a panick stricken stupor when I made the first post. I only installed the re route, radiator, and FM clutch as far as upgrades go. The fuel system and everything thing else mechanical is stock right now. Injectors and MS are standing by to be installed.

I wanted to get everything tip top before changing the ECU to make sure it would go smooth(er).

So you don’t have the turbo installed either? And you installed a wideband but it’s setup in narrowband mode? Is it even wired into the stock ECU and do you know for sure it outputs the same signal as the stock O2 sensor?

if it's 100% stock at the moment i'd put money on it having ignition issues.

Spark plug fouled
ignition lead gone shit
coil on the way out

Start it up, while it's idling like crap pull one of the plug leads off. See if the engine runs worse, or stalls.
if one of the 4 leads makes no difference when removed, it means that cylinder isn't firing, probably for one of the reasons above.
if all 4 make a diff when removed, then it's probably firing on all 4, and you'll want to look beyond ignition issues.

I'd also change the spark plugs anyway, it's under $20 for a set and takes all of 10mins to do.





engine mount wise, just grab the rocker cover and try to rock the engine around.
it will move a little, but shouldnt knock anything etc, (unless a mount is torn, then it'll likely rock around easily)

If you drove for a while without an O2 sensor you may have ran rich enough to foul an old catalytic converter. See if it gets really hot after a long drive, or just bolt in a test pipe if that's viable...

Also wideband in narrowband emulation mode often doesn't provide the results you might expect, so YMMV on that.

For the rear end noise, you've really gotta get under the car, start shaking stuff and looking for any abnormalities. It'd really just be rampant guessing without more info/photos/video. Look in the diff/axle area, try rotating with the rear end off the ground etc. Axle hop can break rear end parts.

Its a Spartan Lambda Controller 2 from 14point7. I have read other using it with stock ECU but I dont' know 100% if its compatible. I have it soldered to the factory O2 sensor wire so the ECU is reading... something. My check engine light doenst come any more if that helps.

if i rev it to 1k it "idles" smooth. but at ~800 I get a lot of vibration. WOT to any rpm and it seems fine. Plugs were put in last summer and Im getting spark to each plug. I havent check the plugs since running with no O2 sensor but I will. I need to double check my timing as well. I think if it is one or two degrees off that would make a difference... I can barely move the engine when throwing my weight at it. I have a used set of mazda comp mounts installed they looked to be in great shape. I will post pics of the original mounts though just to show people what shape they were in. the original mounts basically fell a part from just removing them...

I hope the cat is ok. If it isnt i will probably put in a generic one I really dont want a loud exhaust.

I crawled under the car best I could this morning and it looks like there are two bolts in the PPF going to the diff... isnt there supposed to be three? That may be the issue >_<

I am picking up a 1.8 rear and hardware this weekend so I should be ok after swapping it in assuming that is my current issue.

I'm at home babysitting the next two days but I may get some time to tinker on it. I will report back ASAP. O7

I'm pretty sure it's only 2 PPF bolts to the differential (but someone correct me if I'm wrong). Did you happen to align the PPF correctly as shown here:

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...e8e433b11b.jpg

Also since you are going to be changing the rear differential soon, I would check the condition of the U-joint on your driveshaft. Hopefully that isn't your issue with the clunking.

The rear diff swap comes with a DS. It's a 1.6 to 1.8 diff swap.

I didn't do any measuring when installing the PPF. I did though have a jack on the trans and diff to assist me....

I did some things Friday but forgot to post :o

Timing was 1 mark low (two degrees?). I readjusted it to 1 mark high which I think is 12°. I also pulled the plugs for visual inspection and they look pretty good. I have less than 5k miles on them...

My car still has a lot of vibration at idle but a bit less than it did. I'm thinking it might just be from the Mazda competition mounts. I think I'm going to go ahead with installing MS this weekend...

Should I get Tunerstudio Ultra vs getting MS and megalog viewer? Ultra has a log viewer built in and buying them separately comes out to the same price.

I picked up my 1.8 rear and I couldnt be happier. The housing has surface rust but the Axel and DS look great. The Axel ends don't look like they were beat with a hammer and the rubber boots look great. I ordered some diff bushings so I won't be installing this weekend. I'm hoping that fixes my shaky launches. One of the Old Farts at the shop (they let me use their shop for free) thinks it could be the rear main leaking on the clutch. I generally try to listen to the advice of Old Farts but I put a new rear main seal in when I did clutch. I really don't wanna have to pull the tranny...

Hopefully I can start the actual "build" soon. All I will lack is installing the IC and having the DP made. I'll probably have to trim the back shelf but I don't see what that could hurt.

Ugh babies take a lot of time! (Baby laughs are worth it though)

Super slow progress so far:

I replaced all the stock vacuum lines coming directly off of or attached to the engine. (no pics)

Deleted the Charcoal canister, but did so in a way that it could be easily re attached. Also took the stock air dildo/intake off and temp/crappy installed the IAT sensor.

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...3705d99078.jpg

I also ran the vacuum line through the firewall for the MS. That took forever... I ended taking the cabin air blower out to have enough room to get to the opening. Seems worth it. I was fortunate that the stock firewall grommet was exactly the right size to run my line through. Also my cabin air intake was 90% blocked with trash. I need to figure out how to remove the cowl to clean it out.

I also identified an air leak in the factory intake:

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...e81cf2fe27.jpg

Seems the intake dildo and the alternator were fighting for space and the alternator won. Can't really tell in the picture but it did manage to rub all the way through.

I recently found out my air box had been modified for "high flow". Probably cost me a precious pony or two seeing how it basically sits on the unshielded header. Had no idea till I saw a picture of a factory box a while back. (They are more rare than I thought)

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...d19d59973a.jpg


My temp solution to replace it will be to use the factory tube (minus damaged dildo) with the cheap filter I picked up to mount on the turbo. I was lucky again because I found a piece of silicone tubing at the local store that fits both pretty tight. The OD of the stock tube fits over the silicone and it's ID fits the filter. The piece they had was so short they didn't charge me :D (It will be clamped)

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...59863da130.jpg


I know I need to use the IACV and I want to later mount the IAT sensor to the cold side endtank of the IC. I wanted to Install the sensor near the throttle body for now so that I don't have to run the wires twice. I had long ago removed the vacuum pipe from the DS of the valve cover and capped the nipple on the intake pipe. That's where the sensor now lives. I cut the nipple off, drilled the hole out, and screwed the sensor directly into the plastic. I should have angled it "down" more so it could be thread in more. It's as far as it will go. It's in about five full turns so I don't think it's going any where, it may not however be completely air tight. :o I believe this is an example of a good idea poorly executed.

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...af33f0cfde.jpg


Installed the vTPS. It came with the Ms2 I bought and my only info on it is it's from a mustang, I have no clue as to year or model. If anyone knows feel free to elaborate.

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...a7c84e3d14.jpg
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...121469aa45.jpg
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...fd03ff2bba.jpg

I also made a thing:

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...1b56963210.jpg


The Thing ™ allows me to run two positive connections from two different circuits into a single output. Why do this you ask? Because it sorta kinda "converts" a single filament light into a dual filament light (kinda sorta). I have mounted motorcycle led amber "fog lights" as turn signal replacements. They are very bright as far as blinkers go but then I have no front running lights. This simple circuit let's me use them as running lights and turns. I have also spliced in the front side markers and installed led bulbs there, they now run and blink with the front turn signals. And both lights combined draw less power than the old turn but turn bulbs. I'll later do this to the rear side markers too.

Here's a pic of one of my "turn signals"

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...0d5535823d.jpg


I had some eBay credit and ordered a new steering wheel, hub, NRG disconnect, and some 2" IC piping.

While I have the column area taken apart is there a good way to clean the ignition switch? I've heard corrosion in the ignition cause slow wipers and other issues. I swear I had found a thread on how/what to do but I can't seem to find it now. Seems like a good time to do it.

I also removed the drives seat. I ordered a smaller wheel so that I won't bump my legs with my hands while turning. I've also wanted to lower the seat to remove my head as the highest point of the car. I *think* I'm going to remove the slider assembly and rear seat mounting humps. Then mount the seat strait to the floor. I'll reinforce the area with some plates and or large washers, I'm not overly concerned with safety but the seat coming lose seems like it would be a bad time... I've seen some others do this and loose about an inch in seat height.

I'll also do a foamectomy but I'm more nervous about that. If I cut out enough material to lower my butt 2-3 inches will the seat still be comfortable enough for long trips? I drive the car about 8 hours (one way) a few times a year so losing a huge amount of comfort would be a deal killer.

Bank on more serious topic, I still need to:

• Run the wires to the MAF plug for the IAT
• Tee into the FPR vacuum line for the MS
• Wire in new horn (old one is dead)
• Wire the WBO2 out of narrow mode
• More permanently mount the WBO2 controller
• And last but not least, make sure my OE to MS harness is up to snuff (haven't laid eyes on it in about a year, not sure if I finished it)

It's late and I made the two post on my phone so it very likely contains an erroneous amount of errors.



(Can a mod edit my title? I would like to change it to "Cheap NA6 Td04 build" if possible. Help still needed though.)

Found the write up on cleaning the ignition switch: https://www.miata.net/garage/Cleanin...ionSwitch.html

Don't know why I couldn't find it the other day.

Another question though... Right now I have he Spartan O2 controller on the driver's side sourcing power from the blue wire behind he headlight. I'd rather have it on the passenger side away from all the heat. Where is a good place to tie into 12v switched power on that side? Or am I just better off moving up against the fender on the far side of the brake booster? I dunno...

I have the lines for the IAT ran, when I get back from lunch I think I'm going to chop the factory connector and install so water proof connectors I have laying around. I have to do so double checking but I think I'm ready for MS after that.

Then to be road ready I need to throw the seat back in and wire up the new horn. The new horn is... Excessive. I'll need a relay and power directly from the battery if possible. I need to see where to source that from.

Wish me luck guys. O_o

Ugh... Got everything ready (i think), went to download TS and...............

Laptop wouldn't boot. HDD SMART failure :facepalm:

Tomorrow is my last off day that I wont have to watch the baby for the foreseeable future. I MUST get it up and running/drive able tomorrow or Ill likely die of boredom while traveling to work. I've been pushing my daily a bit more aggressively than I normally do and I think its pent up miata-less frustration.

I had the same problem 10 years ago, just turned off s.m.a.r.t in the main bios and it would run for a week or so...
Maybe worth a try!

It's supposed to rain today so I got up (late) and mowed the grass.

I appreciate the suggestion but I did computer repair for 10 years so I'm good there, just annoyed. The HDD had 27 bad sectors... Boot up DOS, use a nifty little program to deleted the data on the bad sectors and then disable them. Have to reinstall Windows from scratch. Hopefully it'll take win7.

Doing a double check and cleaning some stuff up I forgot to plug the vacuum line to the MS into anything. Tried to tee into the FPR but the tee is nearly the same length as the gap. Should I'd come off the port right behind the TB? I was hoping to just leave those capped.

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...5cac301e8d.jpg



Any other ideas? :dunno:

Why not just use longer hose on each side of the T piece?

Just an extra inch either side would make it 10000x easier.


Also rotate the T 90deg to give more room for the barbs

I got it on. I looked up some PnP kits and the tees they come with are tiny. I went up to a larger (diameter) size and then cut it down. I took about half the length off each side but being larger than it really should be I could barely get the hose on it so they are tight. They will be zip tied as well.

Its pouring rain hard now and my battery is flat (go figure) so looks like ill be waiting till tomorrow to fire it up. I'm frustrated, excited, and nervous all at the same time. I also think I take the record as the slowest wrencher ever.

Frustraion
 

I have MS in the car, all the wiring done (will need to be tidied up later).

When I turn the key 2 clicks for power TS sees it and loads up. The driver side radiator fan runs constant. I saved the current map from the PO but he ran a 1.8, 640 injectors... well, everything on his car is different from mine. So I went and got a 1.6 base map. It didnt like that. Then my battery died. Charged it up and went to sleep. Today I pulled the plug on the fan so it wouldnt run. found a different base map and got 49 errors. I decided not to load that that map either. I started going through the tune that is currently loaded (the MS's PO 1.8 tune) and I dont think I know enough to change every setting to get it right. Then the battery died again after maybe 30 mins. Its currently charging now (think i need a new bat). Im going to keep looking for another base map but it appears its a firmware issue (i think). it looks like im on 3.3.2 and all the maps are for 3.3.1 (again, i think). Off to a great start....



(screen shots)
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...2d40bf6814.png
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...8221ae19e5.png
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...d75000438f.png


The MS is a DIY kit that I bought already assembled from a user here that was upgrading to MS3. I'll throw the tune that came loaded on it here as well because why not.



EDIT - Did some more reading, I think I'm going to load the base map with errors and go through calibrating/setting up the sensors.

looks like ffun.
i'll be going speediuno soon. gotta see if my old laptop can handle TS as well.

I ended up loading a base map from trubokitty. It loaded with only 15 errors but I got an error about conflicting ports.

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...3e507ece9d.png
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...3a073ef0f4.png


I had problems with the tach, afr, temp sensors, and tps not reading right at all. I started a new project and reloaded the trubokitty base map and all seems well. I ended up disabling AC idle up and all of the extra programmable ports. All of the dash gauges look right, tps was working so I hit crank.... and the battery isnt strong enough to turn it over. Its charging.... again...

Ima throw this "tune" on here as well. I set the required fuel, disabled programable outputs, disabled AC idle up, calibrated the TPS and IAT sensor... thats all i changed. does it look "ok" for a starting tune?

Soooooooo

Ugh this:
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...7eb38b2c7a.jpg


I had very little knowledge of what I was doing, now I have zero. I can't find this exact daughter board online. The MS2 has been in my closet for nearly a year so forgot about it having none standard outputs. The case is labeled with them but I didn't grab a picture. The labels all reference internal connections so I have no idea where to wire the spark and injectors from. I need to figure that out asap. Also, I'm thinking I might as well go with Toyota COPs since it's set up for it... Will post more pics of the MS tonight

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...a83ef62e6e.jpg


This is on the MS unit itself... Ive done some searching but I dont see a corrolation between these labels and the db15 coming off the daughter board

Im so frustrated that this is what is holding me up...

Ok so I found this: MS1/Extra Ignition Hardware Manual

This seems to be what I needed. I'm pretty sure I saw a test feature so I'll check the pin outs before I start modifying the harness.

If I use batch fire, wouldn't i need to run the two spark wires to the db15 connector? I would think if each spark out can drive a coil per cylinder then they can drive a coil/2 cylinder as well but I'm not sure. Or I guess wire spark A/B to cyl 1/3 and spark C/D to 2/4 (something like that). I'm not sure...

I found an electronic parts store that had the DB15 connector and housing (an hour's drive one way) so I can test the outputs and splice into my harness. The guy charged $2 for both, said he probably had them in his store longer than I've been alive...

Maybe so.

I cannot find this window in tunerstudio:

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...e291c763d6.png


I think thats all im missing to get this thing firing. The search terms im using to find this I think are too vague... does anyone know where this setting can be found?

please? :sadwavey:

I haven't had much time to fiddle with this... I'm quitting my current job and getting back on the truck as an OTR driver. Money has gotten tight with the wife not working and having the baby. I have two weeks left here. Running or not the Miata will be towed and stored for a couple of months. I would really like it to see boost before then but I doubt that will happen.

I have reached out to a few forum members and no one has replied. I'm going scour over the settings again to see if I can find where to configure MS for spark/fuel outs. Again, any help would be greatly appreciated.

People dont like to answer PM'S about ECU, because it's a super time consuming process even more so with a diy kit.


My suggestion, you probably dont want to hear, but....buy a new unit from a reputable shop. TSE, SuperMiata etc... it costs money, but how much do you value your time and sanity?

I can't help with the window in TS, because i'm on speeduino.

Are you on stock coils right now or on COP's?
Spark outputs for wasted spark need to be on cylinder 1/4 and 2/3, not 1/3 and 2/4!

I do not have to money to purchase a new unit. I'd love a ms3 pro pnp but its not in the cards.

On stock coils right now. Thanks for the info ^_^

I've had zero time. The car is currently stored in MS and hasn't had much done to it.

We hit some big time money issues when the hospital hit us up for another $6k in medical bills with no warning and insurance won't touch it because of how much time has passed (we have different insurance now). SOOO, despite my bold claims before, I am back to driving trucks OTR again. :facepalm:

Being home 4 days a month is killing me BUT, going from less than $500 a week take home to $1200+ a week I'm hoping to quit in December. Oh, and I get to see at least one Miata now daily (spotted an orange NA in Virginia with a silver top the other day).

Any who... I contacted the PO of the MS2 and he has been a great help. Said contact him when ever I need too. Solid guy. I think I'm going to just go COP like he did and go sequential. It will be nearly the same amount of work as getting the stock system going. I know LS coils are better but the Toyota COPs are cheaper and definitely will be Overkill for what I want. I just need to find info for wiring them specifically for the 1.6.

I also towed the car ~500mi on a dolly with nothing disconnected. There is a lot of talk on whether this is bad or not but it came down to 1) I had very little time do to our last minute decision to move and 2) a large amount of people tow Miatas behind RVs with all four wheels on the ground with no problems. Apparently, on RV forums, the Miata is the dingy of choice, second only to Jeep Wranglers and 3) it has nearly 300k miles on it and I'm sure none of them were easy... What's a little more wear? We'll see if there was any damage when I get it running I guess.


For the next few months I'm basically stuck with jelly lurking and shit posting... I'm taking two weeks off (paid) in November though (my boys first birthday) and maybe I can get it moving under it's own power again then.

Tentative Miata plans for the remaining of 2019:

1) buy COP kit/diy
2) get car running on MS
3) star 2020 with at least $5k in savings after paying off debt

Long term plans:
1) turbo'ed reliable enough to DD
2) paint and new weather seals
3) better seats/lower seats
4) new wheels/tires (225 or 245 maybe)
5) real roll bar
6) shit talk mustang owners


/Depressed

Dollying with a manual miata posses almost no risks (as long as it is out of, and remains out of gear).

I figured as much... Really weird not being able to see it in the mirrors though lol. It was behind the 26' (or whatever the largest size is) uhaul and the only way I knew it was still there was it's shadow :laugh:

A year later and still not running. Got the car towed ~650mi, started moving into the new house... and began looking for and changing jobs. Working two jobs sometimes and struggling to pay bills. Car has been sitting the the garage, top up for the whole time. I have a job now that involves travel and I sometimes put 1000 miles a week on my other car. I'd rather be putting them on the miata but this MS install is whats holding me up. I just need this installed to get the car back up and running (and a fluid and fuel change now too).

I have pretty much forgot all that a knew about MS and that wasnt much. I did though, make a "bench test" for it by hacking up a random 12v DC charger for something. I got on today and was able to connect the MS2 to the laptop with it.

Im still in the same boat I was though. I need to find out which pins relate to my injector and spark outputs. I updated TurnerStudio and found the injector and spark test modes I was looking for before. Can i just run the test mode and use a multimeter to check the pins? I took some screen shots, not sure if they help or not, of what I rummaged through today in TS. Please offer your guidance oh wisemen of MT.net :bowdown:






https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...b76df77653.jpg
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...9803c88a18.png
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...69e94c5bc6.png
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...c3d2c140a6.png
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...812cba3e10.png


the current tune is the tune I was sent that the MS's PO was using. He was running sequential fuel and spark. I would like to run batch fuel and spark for the time being just to get it up and running again. Also note he had a 1.8, aftermarket injectors and of course coils. I have a 1.6 and stock ign/inj with ls coils and rx7 injectors ready to go in (after i get running on the stock stuff). I need to make sure the settings are right and find out which physical pins are for what. Not pictured is a a db15 connector on the MS unit its self. I am assuming that is for the drivers and so on that im looking for. What. Me. Do.


edit - i *think* i added the correct tune file that I have show in the screen shots...

Been doing some reading/research since last night and I think Im on to something. Found this too and a lot of it is matching up on the labeling on the MS unit itself. Im counting this as progress.O_o



https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...5e27af0b87.png

I have found the pins for the coils! But im having trouble with the injector pins. I am confusion.



https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...244913a733.jpg
ms2+ db15

This is the DB15 that is on the unit. I was able to use the ing/inj test mode and find out the pins for spark A, B, C, D, and of course ground. Using the test mode each set of pins showed ~.5v. I assumed the bottom row of pins would be for the injectors. Nope. Whats weird is that all of the bottom pins minus the last one shows voltage with injector testing. Doesnt matter which injector i tell it to test all of them show voltage. Also for kicks and giggles I put the meter on what I think the fuel pump is supposed to be and I get 5v on it whether I have the fuel pump enabled in test mode or not. kinda worried about that.

Any one feel free to chime in. :ugh2:

I got a hold of the guy who actually build the unit and he was able to give me the original source info/db15 pinout info. Now I need to get the tune ready for the car and finish my wiring. Im going to make another thread seeing how this one has all but been abandoned...

Ok, so the guy that built the unit has been very helpful. I got the tune file more or less ready and the wiring ready (for the stock fuel/coils). He does remote tuning and is going to help me get it running and idling for nearly free, i couldn't have it any better.

Now my next question(s)... Whats the best way to get the fuel out of my car? I could hook up the MS and have it turn the fuel pump on and pump it all out. Its full. so 10 gallons of 93o that is 12+ months old. Is that my best play? or should I disconnect the line to the fuel filter and let it come out that way? Then I'm going to have 10 gallons of bad fuel. I have two 5 gal cans I can put it in but then what? I guess I can google that, ive never had to dispose of that much fuel. normally I have a can with minuscule amount left and i just port it on the burn pile, i dont think 10 gal of it is a good idea though.