codrus

What is it you're worried about? I've done two now, one worked out great, the other hasn't been started yet, but is hopefully going back into the car this weekend. While I wouldn't want to do the machining myself, once the parts are back from the machine shop and have all been measured, machined, verified, etc there's really not much to it. It takes a while because you want to be super clean and ---- retentive about everything, but I'm really not sure what there is to screw up on it.

--Ian

18psi

iTrader: (76)

.004 sounds downright silly.
I would never run that much

EO2K

iTrader: (37)

Pretty much everything. (I excel at this btw) I've never done anything like this before so its all new to me. I'm uncomfortable because I have no experience to fall back on. I can generally grunt my way though something like this but the stakes are slightly higher. I'm also now in a radically different financial situation than I was when I started collection parts and making evil plans. I'm not broke or anything, but if I mess this up its going to be a while before I can drop another $400 on a set of rods or pistons or whatever.

Of course, that's half the thrill, right?

I'm capable of doing this, and I'll probably change my mind 2~3 more times before it actually gets done. I just need to soak up more into and ask some more questions. Looking over your shoulder in your build thread has been a great help, so thank you again for that

I know, right? It seems insane but neither of them have had problems with it (afaik) I'm trying to fine more sources and more people to harass about it. Have you ever put a set of Supertechs in anything?

Ryan_G

iTrader: (8)

Don't be such a ***** My swap is going to be done within the next 3 weeks. Plenty of roadblocks and obstacles along the way but its been worthwhile.

EO2K

iTrader: (37)

ScottyP3821

iTrader: (2)

Finally a picture

codrus

Well, if you don't spend $1000 paying someone to assemble a bunch of stuff you can do yourself, you'll have $1000 available to replace stuff you screw up.

You're in Santa Cruz, right? If you decide to DIY and want someone around who's done it before, give me a call. I don't pretend to be an expert about it, but I'm happy to help out.

--Ian

Mobius

iTrader: (2)

Why no SUB on the head. Go4alltherevs. You only order the head once. Rev to 8k and feel safe and coddled.

Other than that grats on emissions and making progress and stuff.

EO2K

iTrader: (37)

Hey! There is a pic in post #594 and #599

haha, I like that logic

I'm a little further south than that, by about 45~60min depending on traffic. Gesso has done it at least once now but its good to know there are some locals around When I get a little further into it I'll definitely let you know.

Probably won't need ALLTHEREVS with the EFR. That, and the state took my SUB money in the form of sales tax.

Speaking of "and stuff" I went and bought the mighty Harbor Freight 1,000lb engine stand this afternoon. Then this happened:



I really shouldn't lift things like this by myself.



Its almost a shame to be taking this thing apart. You can still see the crosshatch in the bores (if you look close enough I guess)



I managed to get the crank bolt out without the head in place (don't ask) but now I'm stuck here. I need to figure out how to get this ****** off the snout without damaging the crank. I apparently don't have a jaw puller anymore so I'm at a bit of a loss. I squirted it with some penetrating oil, lit my propane torch and immediately my cell phone started going nuts.

FML I hate being on-call in December.

So that's where it sits. I've not torched it yet, but I did tap on it a bit with a brass hammer. Not sure where to go from here.

EO2K

iTrader: (37)

Never mind, I got creative and removed it without destroying anything.

Engine is down to crank, rods, pistons and oil pump. I discovered the can of "penetrating lube" I bought off the $1 table at O'Reilly makes a PHENOMENAL degreaser so I cleaned my oil pan. Now it does not look like it came out of the junkyard! I really, really should have changed the front main when I did the timing belt but I ran out of time.

Speaking of the timing belt, I did the full monty less than 15k/mi ago so the idlers, belt, and pump look great. I've not decided if I'm going to reuse the Gates Blue that was in the motor because its ...not clean anymore. I still have the Continental Contitech timing belt in my box o' stuff so I do have options.

So since I've been looking for ptw clearance information I've been looking at a lot of pictures of Supertech pistons. Then I looked at my Supertechs...



Humm. Something appears to be missing.

codrus

I wouldn't reuse the belt if it's been soaked in oil. I was originally going to reuse mine, but getting the ATI damper off required a ton of penetrating oil, so I replaced it instead.

As for the piston, they don't seem to come with Supertech logos on them any more. Mine look the same.

Is that 8.5:1 or 9:1?

--Ian

EO2K

iTrader: (37)

Mine kinda did the same. Lots and lots of grime behind the pulley ended up getting skooged all over the belt while I was trying to get things pulled apart. It's not soaking but its not clean either. I'll see if there is something I can wipe it down with without destroying it. Or, you know, just replace it.

Thank goodness, now I can sleep again. Thanks Ian

MA8350-N4 so 8.6:1 CR. I had considered 9:1 for a while but I wussed out and went lower. I just don't have consistent access to anything better than CA91. I plan to integrate a flaxfuel sensor but I don't expect it to be doing much for a while.

EO2K

iTrader: (37)

I took the day off and I'm working on cleaning up my disaster of a garage. I've got so much **** packed into it I can't work effectively. I've reached my maximum accrual of vacation so I figure I might as well spend some of it.

I took a break and called Supertech and spoke to a tech. For what I described, they recommend 0.0033 for my application. that jives well with some of the over info I've seen on the interwebs so I'm pretty confident. I guess we'll find out.

codrus

Yeah, I need to do that too, my garage is a disaster at this point. My goal is to get the car at least to the point where I can back it out onto the driveway to make enough space to clean it up, though.

--Ian

18psi

iTrader: (76)

G - Great idea. And just for the record, if you weren't 3.5 hours away I'd gladly offer to help as well. .0033 is definitely a better sounding number and should still be enough gap to not worry about seizing up

gesso

iTrader: (1)

Pics or it didn't happen. Mostly I'm just bored at work because I don't want to start anything and then forget what I was doing over then next two weeks

EO2K

iTrader: (37)

Hey! I'll have you know there is now a full 4 feet of space between my workbench and the Triumph, rather than the 20 inches I had before. Just as soon as I get the 2~3 Subaru loads worth of boxes donated out of my way.

That was also only about 1/3rd of the garage. Ok, more like a 1/4

ScottyP3821

iTrader: (2)

What bolts did you buy to mount the block to the stand?

Midtenn

iTrader: (15)

Your garage sounds a lot line mine. I have 3 Miata passenger seats and the majority of a NA interior taking up residence in my garage

EO2K

iTrader: (37)

Metric ones? It actually took me vising 4 locations before I could find somewhere that stocked M12x1.5 bolts that were long enough to get the job done. Then I had to make 2 trips because I was not paying attention and didn't realized one of the holes was through-hole and needed a nut. As embarrassing as this is, I also bolted it up to the oil pan the first time thus compounding my problems Yes, it took me 3 hours to get the engine on the stand

TL,DR: NAPA carries the bolts.

I gutted the Triumph and left all the parts strewn about with boxes piled on top of them, then put a bunch of Miata parts inside the Triumph I took pics of the garage but they were frightening so I deleted them.