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The nothing special cookie cutter NA8
Progress edit:
Car is officially boosted. Current setup: Stock 1.8 block Garrett GT2560R w/ billet compressor wheel Kraken manifold/downpipe MS3 Basic FlowForce 660cc EV14 injectors Innovate PSB-1 Fab9 Intercooler 3in exhaust/Magnaflow muffler Qmax coolant reroute CSF crossflow radiator Currently at wastegate pressure 6psi
Spoiler
As the title states nothing special here - plan on doing the very popular T25 + cast manifold = 250ish build. This is mostly a reference for my local miata friends and future documentation if I sell the car eventually. So I have had this car for about 6 years now. Bought it stock with a bunch of extra parts as the previous owner had plans to turbo it but never finished. Its was pretty rough - AC leaking bad, 160k miles, soft top had tons of holes, lots of rust, but it ran great and I wanted something practical for my commute to work (mpg-wise) and rwd. Relevant list of what I bought: 1997 5 speed with torsen 15x8 wheels Hardtop Hard dog single diagonal roll bar KYB agx with GC sleeves Knock off bucket seats and harnesses Front lip and tow hooks ---Not installed but included with car--- Brand new Innovate wideband, oil and coolant gauges Most turbo parts from a wrecked MSM Set of hoosiers with unknown amount of heat cycles Because of the rust I got it for a good deal and all the included stuff I either wanted to install anyway or would sell. Here is how it looked when I picked it up https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...37bec83d25.jpg Never owned a Miata before but really fell in love with this car. So easy to work on, cheap aftermarket, tons of them in the junkyards to pick apart and probably the best handling car I have ever driven. I just got to work on maintenance stuff, hooking up the gauges, painting the hardtop and removing all the soft top stuff and deleting AC. At this point I just daily drove it the way it was. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...63ff2d9ec3.jpg Bought a diy bikini top and vented side windows. Makes the car great to drive on hot days. And took it to a few track, autox and drift events. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...bf2f117f18.jpg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...daa8e6cc5b.jpg Since I bought it the plan was to turbo the car eventually. I wanted to experience the car stock before adding anything so I appreciate it a little more. It was at this point (maybe 3-4 years ago) that I started reading a lot on MT.net. Before reading my plans was to use the turbo parts I got with the car, but soon changed my mind after visiting this site. Here is what came with my car https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...7af2ca5447.jpg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...a5056a9b39.jpg So I sold the MSM stuff and planned a goal for my turbo build. I also sold the hoosiers as I really didn't have any interest in them. I like going to the track but am not very serious and just go for fun. |
I was moving around a lot at this point due to work so I only did a few small things mostly non-turbo related.
Added some side skirts and a factory passenger seat. The full bucket that came with the car was very uncomfortable and looked awful. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...f5f37ff434.jpg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...f9f09c878d.jpg Deep dish steering wheel and short hub. I like my wheel to sit a little closer to me and this felt great. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...82ddb0f495.jpg Tidied up the bay a little. Painted the valve cover when I replaced the infamous leaky cas o-ring. Deleted a couple of things I didnt need. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...14977d45c3.jpg So I acquired a cheap 1.6 dash and door cards from a junked miata. I always liked how clean the dash and doors looked on a 1.6 so I decided to swap. Re-covered the cards with quilted leather. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...57f33cd721.jpg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...6a8bdb703c.jpg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...ce12cf5fac.jpg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...22cf10cfb7.jpg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...f8d574914e.jpg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...2dd3b5b06a.jpg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...4ab094e99f.jpg About the only kinda turbo related thing I did around this time was a diy 3" cat back exhaust. Magnaflow muffler and ricer tip. Oh did the bumper cut too. Not sure how I feel about it. but my bumper is pretty messed up anyways. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...c925d43310.jpg |
The reason I sold the MSM turbo stuff was that everyone complained that the msm turbo is too small and the factory setup would all need to be replaced anyway if I would choose to upgrade.
So my plan was to go FMII no electronics, rx8 injectors and MS2PNP for a great budget setup. I purchased the fm lv1 clutch, 10lb flywheel, MSPNP2, and a used 2560r. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...bb4baba20f.jpg My plan was as follows 1. Get new clutch and flywheel in and break in procedure done 2. Get car running on MS 3. Swap the RX-8 injectors in, get car running on those 4. Install turbo stuff, get car running 5. Get it dyno tuned Decided to install clutch and flywheel myself on my garage floor. I have never installed one with the engine/trans still in the car, let alone by myself. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...39a92b9502.jpg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...df3ebbdd4d.jpg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...f1a1788713.jpg ...aaaaand that sucked. Next time I will do it on a lift or just pull the whole motor. Replaced the pilot and throwout bearing, rear main seal, shifter bushing and added MT-90 gear oil. It wasn't fun but it worked great after I got it back together. Lighter pedal feel too! https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...8c2f9c7b59.jpg Next was the MS. So this is where I screwed up. I got it installed fine but did not read enough about tuning and initial setup. I assumed the base map would get my 100% stock engine running without much involved - I was wrong. It took me about a week after the install to get the car to start and another week to get it to stay started. Not sure what I did wrong but I could not figure out how to get this car running. It was always extremely rich and no matter how much fuel I took out nothing changed. After a month I gave up and put the old ECU back in. I was about to move again and ran out of time to mess with it. Once I moved and took break from working on cars due to work ramping up, I sold the MS to my buddy who had a whole turbo kit ready and needed an ECU. At this point I knew I had to do way more research before trying a standalone again and wanted to go MS3 anyway. The MS I bought was used and I was starting to wonder if it was maybe defective. |
In a local deal I bought a taco manifold and FM downpipe. Even though my original plan was to get a better manifold, it was a good deal and from what I read it should all fit.
At the same time I bought a TSE coolant reroute and csf crossflow radiator. My original radiator was probably the original as it was the nasty brown/green color even though I didnt really have issues with my cooling other than on track days. Also replaced the bottom radiator hose with a silicone one. Finally, I tucked away some wires for a cleaner look. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...f1506acb9f.jpg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...cee2e90553.jpg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...3429408ad1.jpg Now it was time to attempt to get this car on a standalone again. It had been over a year since my failed MS2 attempt and this time I decided to go with a MS3 Basic with the can module. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...1fd1fd262b.jpg Got it all installed and connected directly to my wideband via serial cable. This time I had been reading for a significant amount of time and had a much better understanding of what to do and the basics of tuning. Bought tunerstudio pro and had the car started right up. Within the first day it was running great. Not sure if it was the base tune or me being much more prepared but I was amazed to see it running so smooth hitting the afr targets very closely in such a short amount of time. This thing is amazing. Can module was totally worth it as one of the issues I had with my MS2 was that my wideband was never matching with the ecu. It was always slightly off no matter what calibration setting I used. The MS3 basic reads 100% what my wideband displays all the time and makes it so much easier to tune. After a couple of weeks of auto tuning and changing various settings I have the car getting 30mpgs again and running very smooth. Only issues I still have are cold starts (have to give it partial throttle for about 30 seconds or it dies) and what I assume is accel enrich settings (off throttle the car goes very rich for a second or two before over run kicks in) but the car is good enough for daily driver duty. Deleted the EGR with some block off plates and capped the manifold. Also deleted the PRC solenoid as I found out that MS doesn't interface with that. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...4685e6179f.jpg Unrelated project again but shaved my taillights https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...52e0162ae5.jpg I ended up selling the taco manifold, the FM downpipe and the used 2560r. I had wanted to get the turbo rebuilt as I didn't know the history of it. After seeing the cost of a rebuilt I decided to buy a new one. So I sold the turbo for exactly how much I paid for it and ordered a new one. As for the turbo hardware I decided to buy a matching set manifold and downpipe that I knew would fit so I can do all of this without needing someone to help adjust for fitment issues. I went with the T25 Kraken kit. It shipped really fast and so far looks like great quality! https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...0487300897.jpg Fixed my janky gauge setup and my headunit that has just been resting in the tombstone. Before: https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...6ca770a719.jpg After: https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...ae513833c3.jpg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...0dcc28834c.jpg Swapped out my MTX-L for a new PSB-1 only because I needed a boost gauge and didn't want to mount gauges anywhere else on the car like the A-pillar or in the vents. I also like how the gauge will show you peak boost and can be configured to cut power to your boost solenoid if your AFR's reach a specific threshold - even though MS3 can probably do the same. Which brings me to where I am today. I have almost all the parts I need to do the turbo install. Because I live on the east coast the recent hurricane has delayed the last few deliveries I am waiting for, which is the turbo and injectors. I have a much better job now and have more time to put into this so I should be able to get this boosted in the next week or two following the arrival of the rest of the parts. Can't wait :bigtu: |
Posting for sub. Looks excellent man. Keep up the good work
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Solid work! Everything looks great.
Looking forward to seeing how your setup does with the 2560. What exhaust are you using? Looks like you didn't get the Kraken exhaust. |
Originally Posted by ridethecliche
(Post 1501934)
Solid work! Everything looks great.
Looking forward to seeing how your setup does with the 2560. What exhaust are you using? Looks like you didn't get the Kraken exhaust. |
The turbo arrived today!
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...5bc5f14c76.jpg Went with a new GT2560r with upgraded billet compressor wheel and ceramic coated turbine housing https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...d4d264ff6b.jpg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...4b7302ebb0.jpg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...c07f96af52.jpg Another mistake made: I didn't realize that the (what I assume is S15) wastegate actuator is not able to relocate to any other position on the turbo without modification. So when I clocked the turbo at the estimated position of course it didnt line up. I will have to ghetto rig something to work temporarily until I get something like this: https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...49aff46026.jpg Actually can anyone recommend a decent adjustable actuator for a 2560? I will be running a boost solenoid so it doesn't much matter what pressure. I don't think my injectors will be here this week but I am putting it all together this weekend anyway. |
If you're running EBC anyway, then you should get a wastegate with the lowest pressure you'll want to run. With a 2560, you don't really want to go over like 15-16 lbs anyway, so even an 8psi wastegate will be able to do what you want it to.
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Originally Posted by ridethecliche
(Post 1502557)
If you're running EBC anyway, then you should get a wastegate with the lowest pressure you'll want to run. With a 2560, you don't really want to go over like 15-16 lbs anyway, so even an 8psi wastegate will be able to do what you want it to.
Got the exhaust components back from the local ceramic coater. The idea was to somehow prevent the ugly surface rust from coating the cast manifold. If it actually lowers temps like they say it will thats just a bonus. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...5b810c14eb.jpg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...cb50bcac8b.jpg I've heard mixed reviews about ceramic coating. Hopefully this stuff doesn't flake off within a month. Install starts tomorrow morning! My pile of parts is just about complete. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...d1f368b8cd.jpg Only thing missing is injectors, so for the next week I'll be on stock fuel components. Think stock NA8 injectors can handle 6psi? I'll be extra careful of course and have overboost protection on but just curious. |
Started the install today and made some decent progress. Removed all the factory components, which wasn't too hard as I had already cracked the rusty ass bolts on my almost 200k mile car at some point during my ownership.
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...526c832bdb.jpg So the scary pan drilling wasn't that bad. Took my time and went slow. Once the hole was there I felt around for the oil pickup that everyone warns you about and it wasn't even behind the spot where I drilled! All nervous for nothing I guess https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...0535d9625f.jpg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...b19083dd8f.jpg So this is where I left off. Oil lines are connected on the motor side, exhaust manifold is mounted, hot side IC pipe is done and the intercooler itself is mounted. The "hard part" in my opinion was getting the oil source line connected to the block, drilling the pan and getting the hot side IC pipe through the rats nest of power steering and coolant lines. Now that those are done the rest should be relatively easy. I expect to have it finished by tomorrow! https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...505420c1f4.jpg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...2b8da9c4a4.jpg Still to do: Install studs to manifold with the inconel studs, resbond, stage 8 locking nuts combo and bolt down turbo Connect oil lines to turbo Run coolant lines to turbo Mount and connect downpipe Cold side IC piping and BOV Install gtx PCV Extend harness for IAT sensor Run wastegate and BOV source lines to intake manifold Trim and reinstall splash pan Shield various items with fire sleeve/aluminum tape |
Hardly made any progress today because I reached a few roadblocks.
First I got the studs installed in the manifold and the turbo mounted. Oil and water lines are now connected on both ends as well. First snag I ran into was the studs on the back of the turbo. Looks like the cast elbow I got from Kraken has one hole that doesn't quite line up. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...faf42bd2be.jpg For now it has no stud there but I will have to take it to a machine shop as I don't have the tools to drill this out or widen the hole myself. Second snag - while I was fitting the downpipe to the cast elbow the vband clamp bolt broke. It doesn't look like I crossthreaded it. But it binded really bad when I tried to loosen it and after fighting with it the bolt broke. Couldn't find a local place that sells them so I will have to order a new one. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...4206d719b4.jpg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...e6fa924015.jpg And the last issue is that the FM throttle body inlet pipe I planned on using apparently isn't compatible with my CSF radiator. The hot coolant side will touch the inlet and be a half inch away from the IAT bung which I'm sure will cause too many headaches. Looks like I will sell this piece and go a different route. I'll be using what I should have used in the first place: a 90 degree elbow straight down. At least the rest of the FM piping works and actually made the install easier + reduced the amount of potential boost leak areas in the IC system. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...d7ea534e70.jpg Hopefully I get all the parts I need in this week so I can continue but for now it looks like the car will be down for at least a week :cry: |
It never goes as smooth as you hope.
Move the IAT to the intercooler end tank and don't worry about the hoses touching. The heat from the radiator will heat soak the sensor in that spot even if the hose wasn't there. Otherwise looks good. |
Originally Posted by x_25
(Post 1503132)
Move the IAT to the intercooler end tank and don't worry about the hoses touching. The heat from the radiator will heat soak the sensor in that spot even if the hose wasn't there. Otherwise looks good.
Drilled and tapped the intercooler. Glad the IAT sensor happened to be the same thread size as the oil return fitting I used in the oil pan. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...5d0c8277eb.jpg Now to extend the pigtail https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...c7f7880941.jpg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...c9e187067f.jpg Heat shrinked the joints and wrapped in some braided loom https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...eb8e1d5789.jpg Secured it behind the bumper support, leaves it in an easy to reach spot and is out of direct contact with air from the mouth. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...3dec5b0839.jpg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...ec52d71c4a.jpg Also trimmed the splash pan to fit around the lower charge piping https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...0204076aa8.jpg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...6b42b130eb.jpg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...e9a541cc58.jpg At this point I have a few small things to do but I am waiting on parts to make any real progress. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...cd5e359b34.jpg |
More small progress today
Got the rest of my charge piping in today. Modified the greddy bov flange pipe to connect to the iacv: https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...93e4588836.jpg Ran the wastegate actuator signal hose to the intake manifold. Put a small section of heat shield on the hot side and secured it to the front of the engine with stainless hose clamps. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...7770e975cb.jpg Then got the cold side all connected and torqued down. Ran the bov vacuum signal as well. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...a3fd38e27d.jpg Here you can also see I have a an intake filter now. Not sure how I feel about it I might do a 90 degree further off to the right. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...b8b7f4aef2.jpg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...64564065ca.jpg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...70f9039c36.jpg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...27106e9a52.jpg Got the turbo outlet/downpipe neck back from the machine shop. Fits perfect with all the studs now. Also shielded the heater hoses and dipstick tube with aluminum tape. These hoses are close to the downpipe but do have an air gap of about 3/4 of an inch. Stretched a piece of heat shielding over the plastic dipstick handle so it's completely covered. Brake master is covered in gold tape on all plastic parts that face the DP/turbo. Can someone let me know if this will be sufficient protection? A replacement vband clamp should be here tomorrow. Once the downpipe is installed its time to start the car and check for leaks. Once I know it runs leak free I will start swapping the injectors. Can't wait for this weekend! ....so apparently this post didn't go through last night so I'll just post it now. |
...and this is what I actually did tonight
Got the ebay wastegate actuator in. Mounts so much nicer and I can actually preload this one how I want. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...9951253c64.jpg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...1c5554e4df.jpg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...1e6a25ecb3.jpg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...70c50bc94c.jpg Got replacement vbands in so I mounted the downpipe. The Kraken stuff fits great. No modifications needed to fit the turbo or downpipe. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...cd83a8706b.jpg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...943dfacd1b.jpg Calibrated my wideband and got that mounted in place. Also added some of the DEI heat shield stuff to the heater hose that is close to the downpipe. I was excited to start it up but upon filling the car back up with coolant I found a leak at the heater hose under the header that connects to the water pump. That spot has leaked before for me and I never really fixed itm just jiggled the connection and lubed and it would stop. This time I would like to replace the o ring properly so I will need to visit the hardware store/auto parts store tomorrow. Hoping to start it tomorrow morning https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...f0bb9b90cc.jpg |
Awesome build.
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Two things:
You can bend the heater core return pipe at the end near the downpipe to get more clearance. I got myself from touching to 1.5" clearance. Used a deep socket and a piece of iron pipe. That o-ring is metric. Finding the right one at the autoparts stores around here is a PITA. I gave up and just slathered everything with RTV and it is all good. Oh, and one more thing. People have sucked the center cone of those specter filters into their turbo/super before. Though mine lasted two years in front of a JR M45 kit at 9psi. But the whole filter broke off the base the other week... |
Originally Posted by x_25
(Post 1503993)
Two things:
You can bend the heater core return pipe at the end near the downpipe to get more clearance. I got myself from touching to 1.5" clearance. Used a deep socket and a piece of iron pipe. That o-ring is metric. Finding the right one at the autoparts stores around here is a PITA. I gave up and just slathered everything with RTV and it is all good. Oh, and one more thing. People have sucked the center cone of those specter filters into their turbo/super before. Though mine lasted two years in front of a JR M45 kit at 9psi. But the whole filter broke off the base the other week... I didn't know about the intake filter. Any suggestions? I have a standard 3in cone filter and I cant get it to fit under the hood. Is FM the only one who stocks those 'flat' cone filters? Not much progress but I got the coolant leak sorted out with a new o ring. Filled and bled the system https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...5a07310b53.jpg Primed turbo by filling the oil feed port with a few pumps of oil and spinning the turbo by hand, then pulling the main relay and cranking until oil pressure is seen. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...7aa829ad46.jpg First start was a success! No leaks and minimal smoke from the new components curing from the heat. Running open downpipe for now and it's way louder than I thought Still on stock fuel so I didn't take it for a drive yet, mainly because I dont have anyone to keep an eye on my injector duty cycle. Tomorrow these will be installed and and then I can test drive it. FF 660cc EV14 injectors. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...485fd8281a.jpg |
Worked on the injectors today. Old 240ccs came out really easy. Cleaned up the holes for the new injectors
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...4e790fcc59.jpg Spent some extra time cleaning and tucking the injector harness and was really pleased with how it turned out. The extensions for the EV14's made it so I could tuck the main bulk of the injector subharness out of sight under the intake manifold. Also cleaned and threw a coat of paint on the fuel rail while it was out. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...82c38191eb.jpg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...118272232b.jpg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...bd6bf8ebf7.jpg So at this point the car runs like shit with the new injectors. They are all firing and are not leaking so its just a tuning issue. All I did was follow the instructions to the T by setting Req Fuel, setting the injector deadtime and the small pulsewidths. I read that I will likely have to completely redo my tune, but before that can anybody offer any tips? Right now it will start right up but will cut fuel and go full lean on decel. Also while trying to hold revs at idle it will oscillate cutting fuel and then giving way too much resulting in massive afr swings and the car almost dying when it goes from 9 to 22 afr. I am running on a lightly autotuned MS3 Basic base map originally set up for stock 1.8. At this point most of the work is done under the hood and plans should be -Tune good enough to drive around -Find an exhaust shop (or person) to connect my downpipe to my exhaust -Take it to get tuned by a pro on dyno I'll be tuning whenever I'm free this week and will be researching who to take it to for the exhaust and pro tune. Hopefully can get this done soon so this car can get back to daily driver duty. Oh and so I can finally enjoy my boosted car |
Yesterday was a pretty good day. Got my VE table good enough at idle and free reving through the lower range to take it for a drive. Basically I added 25% to my fuel map across the board and it got me to a stable idle and somewhat close afrs on my short, slow drive. It's running a bit lean so I think I will increase the whole map by another 5-10% to hopefully get it running a bit rich. I'd feel safer needing to pull fuel than keep adding it. It will idle and 'cruise' (in 1st and 2nd) pretty close to my target but hits high 15's low 16's giving it any more throttle. It didn't blow up and didn't leak so I suppose it was a small victory.
Because of the open downpipe it's just too damn loud to drive for too long right now. Doesn't help that the dp hits my steering column a bit with it not being attached on one end. Overall I'm pretty happy with the EV14s. The idle feels very close to stock injectors and I'm sure after tuning they will be great. Will be taking it for short drives to get it ready for the trip to the exhaust shop which should be later this week. |
awesome build!
What was wrong with the Kraken supplied wastegate bracket? Can't you make it work on the genuine 2560R? |
Originally Posted by der_vierte
(Post 1504336)
awesome build!
What was wrong with the Kraken supplied wastegate bracket? Can't you make it work on the genuine 2560R? |
Have pictures of how it was interfering ?
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You are going to want to protect those steel brake lines and the the master cylinder from the heat, especially the line that goes down inside the frame rail to the left front wheel.
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Originally Posted by ridethecliche
(Post 1504364)
Have pictures of how it was interfering ?
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...85ab7d9c25.jpg Here you can see the two bottom holes that are supposed to mate up with the factory WG mounting bolt holes on the front of the compressor housing. They didn't line up so one hole had to be elongated. Also when aligning the WG after clocking the turbo I could not get it lined up how I wanted it. I could have re-clocked the turbo a few times to maybe get it better but it just didn't fit very well. The rod on the stock actuator isn't adjustable so mounting on either side of the kraken bracket makes the rod too long or too short, so it will need to be bent or sectioned. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...c05b752d74.jpg So yes, it will work but the piece I received definitely had to be modified. Even if it didn't I really didn't like how it covered the front of the turbo. The adjustable actuators available for the 2560 mount behind the compressor housing, the bolt slots line up and the adjustable rod comes with two different length ends that thread on the rod with a good inch of adjustability in and out. You can clock the turbo any way you want and it would be able to mount cleanly and straight. |
I didn't even know he supplied WG brackets. I definitely never got one in my kit from him!
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Originally Posted by ridethecliche
(Post 1504494)
I didn't even know he supplied WG brackets. I definitely never got one in my kit from him!
So I took it for another drive today. This time after autotuning for about 20 mins decided to ease into boost. First gear was fine - hit about 4.5psi but was only giving it maybe half throttle. After shifting to second though boost would come on for a split second then the engine would bog down until I lifted and it was out of boost. My fuel map is super rich so I noticed that in boost I am hitting 9~ afr. So please excuse my noob question here but would an overly rich condition cause this behavior or does it sound more like spark blowout? When I got back from my drive I realized I forgot the gap the plugs down. I am running BKR7E's and they were at a 0.045 gap. I put them down to about 0.030 and won't be able to check until tomorrow if that helped. I am thinking spark blowout but have never encountered it before on any other cars of mine. |
Not at pressures that low.
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If you are stupid rich it can foul the plugs and cause all kinds of problems.
For the EV14s. I got a set from an 8 pack a friend and I split and mine seem to be very non linear at low pulse widths. So my idle and light cruise stuff was a bit wonky to tune. (Basically, anything below about 1.7ms total pulse width is off on my set). Once I open the faucest though they are good to go. |
It was the plugs. So happy to say that this last drive she boosted straight through gears 1-4 WOT without issue. Wastegate pressure is 6psi and is rock solid. Afrs are in the low 10's while in boost. I think I'll autotune the last log one more time and leave it like that for the tuner. Car cold starts and idles just like it did on stock injectors. :D :D
Only issue I have now is the open downpipe is rattling against something in certain rpm ranges. Dropping it off tomorrow at an exhaust shop about 20 miles away and it looks like it should make it there fine. If I can find my gopro I will take a video soon. Thank you guys so much if only you knew how long I spent researching this whole process over the years and 99% of the information came from here. |
Small update I had an exhaust shop connect my downpipe to my exhaust. First time going to a decent shop for exhaust work. They did an amazing job.
What I had was: Stock header > stock cat > stock exhaust section with second O2 sensor > 3 inch exhaust section > 3in muffler So I had them do: 2.5in Kraken downpipe > 3in mid pipe section > 3in exhaust/muffler and they made a small flat spot in the downpipe to give more clearance since it was barely touching the steering shaft. Exhaust all tucks under the frame rails nicely. They used some extra vband flanges I had laying around. Welds are a work of art. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...f61a593362.jpg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...b591e426b9.jpg The car is an absolute blast to drive now. Boost comes on quicker than any of my previous turbo cars and the idle and cruise are just as smooth as they were on the stock ecu/injectors. The exhaust is actually a bit quieter now then it was with the half stock exhaust + cat. Now the car is ready to go back to daily driver duty. I ironed out some low idle issues and the tune is pretty good. Will see if I still get my mpgs since I have a long highway commute to work every day. I do notice that the exhaust and motor shake a bit when the car is hot, like after driving at highway speeds for 40+ minutes. I'm thinking motor mounts or exhaust hanger bushings? |
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Originally Posted by DNMakinson
(Post 1505209)
Interesting way you have the tow hook mounted, kind of dangling down. Mine is mounted where it sticks straight out.
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Mine dangles too
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Exhaust shop did a good job!
My Kraken downpipe is touching my steering shaft also, but i don't have the full exhaust connected, thought this would get more clearance fully assembled, but it looks like i need a little flat spot also, got any pics? Btw: show us some pulls! :jerkit: |
Originally Posted by der_vierte
(Post 1505244)
My Kraken downpipe is touching my steering shaft also, but i don't have the full exhaust connected, thought this would get more clearance fully assembled,
but it looks like i need a little flat spot also, got any pics? https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...daed931914.jpg Since it's pretty much done I moved her out of the garage and finally washed the car. Usually keep my Nissan in the garage so the Miata is back in the driveway. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...7595ec434b.jpg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...eb68977356.jpg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...fe30c93421.jpg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...f6f70d8604.jpg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...65d84657b8.jpg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...c058fccef0.jpg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...81289f8b91.jpg
Originally Posted by der_vierte
(Post 1505244)
Btw: show us some pulls!
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awesome :)
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Now that I am driving the car more the coolant temps seem a bit high. I decided to do a diy mount duct that connects the mouth to the radiator and closes around the intercooler. I forgot to get pics but its nothing special.
Also, back when the car was stock and I did the coolant reroute+new radiator I removed the AC fan that I had wired in parallel. Well now that the turbo is in it runs hot and the fan never shut off so in addition to doing the mouth duct I put the AC fan back in. The results were improved but still in the range that keeps my fans on all the time - even at highway speed while cruising. Here are the numbers: Before turbo (Stock with Qmax reroute and crossflow radiator): Low: 192F High: 197F After turbo: Low: 204 High: 215 After turbo + duct/AC fan: Low: 198 High: 205 Basically the car warms up and stays at 205 while driving/idle and sometimes drops a degree or two while coasting to a stop. Fans are on the whole time. Cooling setup consists of TSE Qmax reroute, CSF crossflow radiator, 195F Stant thermostat, 25% coolant mix, OEM undertray and now the mouth duct and both Oem rad fans. Fans are set to come on at 203 and off at 198. Suggestions on this? Are the temps ok? Should I adjust fan on/off times? Different thermostat? I haven't really beat on the car for extended periods so I want to know if these "normal" driving temps look ok or if I need to look for a problem. |
I had some interference with the DP and steering rod as well, but was able to get around it by adjusting the V Bands on both sides of the downpipe. If I can get it justttt right, it doesn't interfere at all during driving. I need to adjust it a hair because it buzzes a little bit sometimes.
Also, a coolant temp of 205 is nothing to worry about, especially if it's in hot weather. |
You guys have the cast elbow on v-bands, i have the "old" T25 5 bolt flange and there is no adjusting.
Bolted up exhaust yesterday and it still interferes slightly. Well, it's time for the big hammer :party: |
Originally Posted by ridethecliche
(Post 1505756)
I had some interference with the DP and steering rod as well, but was able to get around it by adjusting the V Bands on both sides of the downpipe. If I can get it justttt right, it doesn't interfere at all during driving. I need to adjust it a hair because it buzzes a little bit sometimes.
Also, a coolant temp of 205 is nothing to worry about, especially if it's in hot weather.
Originally Posted by der_vierte
(Post 1505812)
You guys have the cast elbow on v-bands, i have the "old" T25 5 bolt flange and there is no adjusting.
Bolted up exhaust yesterday and it still interferes slightly. Well, it's time for the big hammer :party: |
Been a while since an update but not much has been done with the car. Basically I self tuned it to be good enough to drive to work and just drove it. I did a couple of small things
First was the motor mounts. It was clear that after the turbo went in that they were bad - probably original as I have never touched them. Replaced with the AWR 70 durometer mounts. Car felt amazing after these went in. No more missed shifts and better response. NVH increase wasn't nearly as bad as people say. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...291957cd0f.jpg Did a standard brake job because one of the rear calipers was seized. Just cleaned up all the old calipers, replaced the bad one and got new pads, rotors, lines, hardware and fluid. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...041f267563.jpg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...3c3e0d1fac.jpg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...afbb573f98.jpg |
Finally got the thing tuned this weekend. The tuner is a local guy who tunes mostly megasquirt miatas in the autocross/hpde scene and was recommended highly by several people. He seemed very impressed by the flow of the kraken pieces - initially estimating my setup to make about 190whp with a bar of boost. I was pleasantly surprised with how much it ended up making.
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...70a1abb684.jpg Blue is as I brought it in with my own tune at 7psi and green would be the end result at 13psi. I Would have liked to go higher boost but he didn't seem comfortable doing that so we ended there. I'm thinking I should be able to bump it up to at least 15-16psi. Any thoughts? Car is an absolute blast to drive after the tune. Much more responsive and smoother in power and obviously a lot faster. Tuner is very knowledgeable guy and I learned a lot from the session. My next plan is to tackle the wheel hop problem I have. Waiting for new diff mounts to come in stock and hopefully that will fix it. Other than that the car is pretty much mechanically sound. On to making it look less ugly I guess! |
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