ridethecliche

iTrader: (2)

Yay! Brain emailed me!

psyber_0ptix

iTrader: (4)

So the motor is finally broken in?

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

Ftfy

ridethecliche

iTrader: (2)

Plz dun be mean to my pweshes motur :/

ridethecliche

iTrader: (2)

Well... Car starts and 'drives'...
But RPM has been cutting out like crazy and its been bucking around when it tries to move so I had to abandon break in and drive it home from a couple of blocks away. Not really looking forward to troubleshooting this.... i have no idea what it could be. Sensor gaps seemed fine with a cursory look.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

you probably need to flip the cam polarity...

ridethecliche

iTrader: (2)

So I swapped from a nb1 to nb2 head, but the senatse are the same. You're referring to the POTS inside the MS right?

I feel like this is a new issue since I don't think it happened when I had first started the motor. Then again I hadn't run it that long but I feel like it wasn't cutting out then.

ByteVenom

ridethecliche

iTrader: (2)

Per Braineak:

We did +12V from the EGR (tested it with a multimeter) and cut the wire going to the CEL indicator and soldered in the wire going to the VVT solenoid and providing ground. Should accomplish the same thing per above.

Philly Miata

iTrader: (1)

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

no, just make sure the ignition settings are setup correct for sync.

ridethecliche

iTrader: (2)

I inverted the polarity of the sensor under 'ignition options' and the issue still persists.

In this video, I show my tach at ~30 seconds. It wasn't as bad in the video, but the attached log will show it cutting out more frequently and at a lower rpm.


Here is a log and tune from today. MS was detecting 'knock' for some reason but the car was in neutral so I doubt that's happening. There was also a rattling noise which had me a bit paranoid, but it didn't seem to get louder or increase with revs so I don't think it's anything. You can't really hear it in the video either. I'm running the 949 dampner and 36-2 trigger wheel and those are the settings currently enabled in tuner studio.

And of course I have an oil leak. It's not insane, but it's definitely there. I think it's the VCG since there's oil pretty high up, but it could be the cam seals as well. I'm just really hoping it's not the front or rear main seals.

Thanks for any and all help.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

le sigh.

some how i feel like you guys like don't even try with a programmable ECU.





i wonder what le problem could be?!

pm vlad.

ridethecliche

iTrader: (2)

Yes, I saw that. And the reason is #2 which is missing tooth at wrong time. This is confusing because it's a 36-2 trigger wheel and that's the one that I have selected. I don't think any teeth are broken off or anything.

The crank angle sensor is a cards width away from the trigger wheel. I can try swapping out the camshaft sensor if there's a chance that the issue is there. VVT is currently disabled because I got an error message when I tried to enable it, likely due to the frequency issue we were discussing earlier.

Thanks brain.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

post a composite log.

ridethecliche

iTrader: (2)

This is the composite log from yesterday:

Oops. File's too big for uploader. Uploaded the file to drive:
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1Nl...lHg9dJmemdec92

Full disclosure, as you can probably tell, I am **** poor at deciphering the composite logs. I've never really looked at one before this go around.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

the only thing i notice there is the cam polarity -- but no sync loss in that entire log.

ridethecliche

iTrader: (2)

I'm really not sure what to make of that. The behavior was exactly the same last night as it was today and I switched the polarity in the trigger wheel settings from 'inverted' to 'normal'. That's the only change I made before I started the car up again today.

Here's the other composite log from yesterday, but I don't see why it would be any different.
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1JJ...vgWlUuwHazHaGQ

I found an mnet thread about the 36-2 wheels being touchy about the spacing, so I have it 0.015 right now. I think I saw miataturd write that he had to get at like 0.010 to get things to work well, so I'll do that next if this doesn't work. I don't really think it's related though... I swapped fuel pumps as well, but I think the fuel cut is secondary to the sync issue.

Would the trimpot have anything to do with this? I'm not sure if changing wheels affects that since having less teeth may let it deal better with a bit more noise? Kinda pulling things out of the air here based on what I've read.

Edit:

Brain, this is what it was like when the composite logs were taken last night. I have a short clip. This is before I reversed the polarity via TS settings.

https://youtu.be/KnVCRLeFUqg

ridethecliche

iTrader: (2)

Here's a video of one of the composite logs as it was going yesterday.

If I make any other changes, I'll take another log of things. I changed the sensor gap... I can probably take another log now or tomorrow afternoon to see if that changes anything.

https://youtu.be/zxBYjATG3MA

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

I'm trying to understand what's going through your head when you make/post a video like that...