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Old Oct 9, 2010 | 11:34 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by Techsalvager
**** the MAF\AFM that **** ain't gonna fit like that, you gonna have to redo it son.
Are you saying this to yourself?
Old Oct 9, 2010 | 02:30 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by aug
Are you saying this to yourself?
why yes, nobody here seemed to noticed it would be to long outwards, after going over it more and testing fitment, I redisgining what I have.
Old Oct 9, 2010 | 02:49 PM
  #23  
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Toss the MAF/AFM/brick/air restrictor away and use this: http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/g...tor-p-116.html
Old Oct 9, 2010 | 04:50 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by southernmx5
Toss the MAF/AFM/brick/air restrictor away and use this: http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/g...tor-p-116.html
and how is that suppose to replace the MAF exactly?
Old Oct 9, 2010 | 05:24 PM
  #25  
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You'll need a standalone such as AEM or MS to utilize that in conjunction with a MAP sensor.
Old Oct 9, 2010 | 05:45 PM
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Originally Posted by aug
You'll need a standalone such as AEM or MS to utilize that in conjunction with a MAP sensor.
or maf sensor
Old Oct 9, 2010 | 06:15 PM
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From my understanding, air is either metered through a MAF or a AIT and MAP in conjunction.

An ECU necessitates both an AIT and MAP in the latter case.

Though this is not a cheaper alternative, it certainly is the most effective.
Old Oct 11, 2010 | 11:09 PM
  #28  
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I would suggest putting the MAFmeter before the turbo. I was running mine right before the intercooler and I went through 2 before I put it back to the preturbo location. My car now runs so much better than it did. My engine bay looks like ***** with that nasty thing in there again but I prefer my daily to actually run decent... I think the heated air from the turbo may have something to do with the 2 previous ones being ruined AND the pressure quickly pops off the plastic cover making the internals suceptable to contamination and the car further running like ***...
Old Oct 12, 2010 | 01:24 PM
  #29  
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redo


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Old Oct 12, 2010 | 10:20 PM
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LOL at PVC pipe
Old Oct 12, 2010 | 10:46 PM
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LOL at pvc close to manifold, that's gonna last 1 heat cycle.

Also LOL at Mello Yello
Old Oct 12, 2010 | 11:17 PM
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I had a pvc pipe setup for a while on the cold side and it worked fine as long as I used it (it was temporary). other than popping IC pipes often even at only 6psi.

Either way, LOL at it close to the manifold. Seriously I would not trust that right off the hot side like that.
Old Oct 13, 2010 | 01:15 AM
  #33  
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just using for mock up for piping I need.
Old Oct 13, 2010 | 09:13 AM
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Btw clock the turbo down and you'll save a 90
Old Oct 13, 2010 | 07:32 PM
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Old Oct 13, 2010 | 08:34 PM
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Hell if you're going to do that, use the stock accordion piece with zip ties in it to help it stop expanding under boost. Honestly though, although any setup with the stock crossover tube is a little easier, eliminate it if you can, you can't clamp it very tight and it's more likely to blow off under boost.

There is an excess of pipes and couplers there, although I'm not sure what the most efficient version would be.
Old Nov 6, 2010 | 08:36 PM
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Old Nov 7, 2010 | 05:36 PM
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oil drain back tubing hooked in, covered heater hoses in some tape, put on wastegate, still need a few items.



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Old Nov 8, 2010 | 08:40 PM
  #39  
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having lean tip in bought a o2 clamp to fix that.
Old Nov 8, 2010 | 10:28 PM
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If you want a 90* intake elbow, I have one I could sell for like, $15 shipped. It's like your AFM filter adapter, but it immediately takes a 90* downward turn. It allowed me to go straight from my turbo, to the AFM, to a filter behind the radiator. Not the best placement, but it wasn't sitting on top of the fender either. PM me if interested.

You can see it in this picture. Like I said, an immediate 90*. Or build one yourself.
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