Hurry up and finish this thing so you can sell it to me. Looks awesome man impressive work, manifold is sick.

Id love to have them just alittle short on cash right now and I only have a set of stock gtx wheels to trade.

We need winter here so I can have an excuse for a winter beater. In for awesome.

its alive
 

So gather round all you children IT LIVES………
But first a little preface with pics then to the movies of first steps.
Here are some shots of the I/C plumbing and such. Attachment 191519
http://i843.photobucket.com/albums/z...yah/almost.jpg
http://i843.photobucket.com/albums/z...itofsprite.jpg
I think that this maybe the only side mounted GTX ever lol.
Ok next on the list is rad modification. For all of you just tuning in I bought a civic half rad from EBay. It is dual core and was about $50 shipped. Now after I got all the bugs out and drove this thing. With the rad fan not hooked up and in 13* weather, the car stays well within the factory temp. Actually it may be running a little on the cold side.
As you can see the water inlet had to be moved. Also I used the factory lower rad mount bolt hole to mount the new rad bracket.
http://i843.photobucket.com/albums/z...yah/radfix.jpg
http://i843.photobucket.com/albums/z...erradmount.jpg
Next to tackle on the list was oil and coolant supply to the turbo. I used the factory oil supply and the factory return locations for oil. I did however change the factory feed off the block to -4an and I was able to utilize the stock location with the addition of a 10mm banjo and a 90* swivel.
Coolant however was a whole different story. The factory coolant supply and return are rubber line. The supply comes of the water outlet/thermostat housing bypass tube. The return was a barb into the block next to the oil supply.
AS SEEN IN THIS PIC.
http://i843.photobucket.com/albums/z...lantandoil.jpg

I was able to use a Honda fuel rail adapter to banjo that uses the same thread as the block YAY. Now to tackle the coolant supply, for this I had an old “jdm” coolant temp sender rad hose splice adapter laying around. So I came up with the bright idea to tap it for 1/8” npt and weld it to the thermostat outlet. So this is now using a 1/8 to -6an adapter with a 90* swivel at both ends of the coolant supply line.
As seen below
http://i843.photobucket.com/albums/z...tatadapter.jpg

So after 8 months of sitting I added coolant and changed the oil. Double checked all of my connections and primed the motor for its first steps after being put back together.
These are the first breaths. It’s so smoky because I forgot to plug the Iat sensor in.
Attachment 191520

And its first breath.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zGCFa...er_profilepage



That gets to thumbs way up
http://i843.photobucket.com/albums/z...wothumbsup.png

So I noticed last night that only cyl 1, 2, 3 where firing correctly and the car was running dead lean @ 17:1 +. So today I pulled the plug on cyl 4 and it was soaked with fuel. So my first thought was ok bad coil….. Wrong, ok what’s next? So I checked compression 180psi…..ok what’s next? While I was removing the compression tester I noticed the cyl 4 injector plug was missing its little clip.
So I gently pressed the plug down and to my amazement the plug slid down onto the injector. So like a guy rushing to the hospital to see his child being born I quickly place the I/C pipe back on, and start the beast. Crank Crank Crank damn Aem takes so long to self test Vrooommm……… Hells yeah now it is running right again and I all that’s left is to retune and keep moving forward with my project.
Here is a shot at idle after the injector fix.
http://i843.photobucket.com/albums/z.../idleholla.jpg

I have no idea why, but if a cylinder isn't working, AF gauges read full lean. I'd think it'd be rich, since 1/4 of the fuel is now being pushed through the exhaust unburnt.

My thoughts where the same if I had dropped a cyl it would be running rich. But what I did account for was an inJector that was firing occasionally. So it looked like it was firing but actually was not. Hence the lean condition. The reason I figured it out beside the lean afrs was due to the fact that runner number four on the manifold was at 150* compared to 1,2, 3, where around 400*. I figured that spark was getting blown out due to the fact when I pulled the plugs the first time they where capped at .048. I was like WTF so I dropped them to .025 and still no change. Then it was on to checking for fire so I Ohmed my wire set the all checked out. Then I checked the coil resistance it ended up being ok. So then my last check was compression I thought maybe I washed a cyl. ComPression ended up being 165 on number four. That's when I saw the injector clip and had an ephiany of y the car was running lean lol.

It reads lean because of all the extra air entering the exhaust stream. Everything going through the cylinder that isn't firing just gets pumped on through into the exhaust.

And an "oxygen sensor" is just that. It senses oxygen and converts that number to an AFR. so if any extra oxygen gets in there you won't be able to trust the numbers.