I'll keep the suggestions in mind. I read a couple threads that said just take the pos. from the radio and I wasn't sure about tapping into the ecu ground.

So far I'm not boosting but I'll keep my eye on the signal source fitting.

As long as the zip ties are holding the SS lines tight, they won't cut through.

Why are you still using the MAF and recirculation valve if you have the Adaptronic, or is it just not installed yet? And how are you driving it around? Stock ecu and staying out of boost?

Thanks for the LC1 pics, gave me some ideas for when mine arrives.

I haven't done any turbo installs on the miata yet but anyone else thinks this oil drain is too low as well and should be higher up on the oil pan and is possible reason for the leak? Could also cause oil to backup?

Looks about right

I haven't installed it yet. Plan on doing that this weekend.

I left the actuator disconnected, not to run boost.

Tech,
You might be right. I drilled about a centimeter lower than the instructions because that is where I could fit the drill. But the oil is leaking at the ss line nut and fitting. Drilling a little lower caused the ss line to be a tad short. Which is the reason why I am getting a 45 degree adapter, to further length and to lesson the load of the bend.

I can't get the damn injector clips off. Fuel rail is unbolted but not completely off. Someone please give me a trick or something to get these damn things off. I've been fighting with it for two hours and haven't even unclipped one yet.

Son's of Biatches! In none of the install directions did it ever say to pull the injector first to access the clips! I was trying to unclip while the injector was still in the rail! >:(

Update;

Hammered the crap out of the heat shield so it wouldn't rub against the heater core hoses.
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4048/...de53fe8a55.jpg

Used a hole saw and snips to trim the under tray.

before:
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2722/...ef2f561d25.jpg

After:
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2681/...48f89895f4.jpg
I overtrimmed a bit. Measure once cut twice.
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2691/...c42f8c0b48.jpg

The other side didn't need as much.
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4004/...4473d7102e.jpg
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4022/...fb9e1e1c8d.jpg

Wow, I have a similar leak on the return oil line, but not as bad as yours, mine is very slow dripping. It seems it usually leaks when the engine is cold and once hot it stops, maybe the metal expands or whatever.

I feel your pain with all the headaches you are going thru. On my LC-1 after been installed, the thing was defective, had to remove it back to warranty and now it works.

Everynow and then you have to backout from the build or else it will end on the FS thread.

Good work, thanks for sharing your build pictures.

Thanks psiturbo,
The oil leaks have been taken care of now. Using sealant took care of the leak on the pan fitting, but begi ended up replacing the line for me since there was another leak coming out of the back of the fitting attached to the line.

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2750/...86eb0520f3.jpg

Too funny, my BEGi heatshield looks exactly like yours after I did the required modifications to get it to fit. There is NO way it would have fit without the beating I gave it, even after I bent the heater core lines as far as I felt was possible. The bolt on the downpipe was a pain for me as well. My experience with the BEGi products is that they usually require some rework and patience.