HAZE33

Thanks man, I appreciate the offer...very generous.

I already have a turbo street car and don't want to deal with the headaches for a track car. I think your setup, or an NB1 would be the best choice for me.

Nice driving!

Arca_ex

iTrader: (2)

Corner balance and alignment is done. My friend Robert who owns Boreham Motorsports here in AZ did the setup and it turned out pretty good, despite one of my eccentric bolts being annihilated.

The car was 2083lbs with just under a half tank of e85 and without me in it and no ballast.

With my weight in the car it ended up at 50.0% cross weight and 50.4% front weight. Good stuff.

We aimed for 4.0" front pinch weld height and 4.25" rear pinch weld height without me in the car.

With me in the car the camber would not get any more positive than -3.9 degrees, largely thanks to the bad eccentric bolt.

Thankfully with the new SADfab offset bushings in the front, getting a boatload of camber was easy. With the eccentric straight up and down it was at -3.5 degrees in the middle of its range.

Final Setup:

Camber Front: -4.0
Camber Rear: -3.9
Caster L and R: 4.75
Toe All Corners: 0.0

I'm hoping that on the Hoosiers, that much camber is justified. Also looking forward to saying goodbye to outside edge wear.

ryankpeck

I've been reading through your thread the last couple days in my free time at the office. Really nice car and it makes me want to get into road racing so badly!

hi_im_sean

iTrader: (3)

If 4 degrees causes inside wear, you just need to drive harder....




Couldn't move a camber bolt from somewhere else? I would have loaned you one of mine.

hornetball

iTrader: (4)

Sub'd for your tire wear results. At 3.5, I'm still cording the outside first. But, it's a larger area (like, outer 3rd of tire) as opposed to the edge like it was before. 23 sessions on Toyo RRs, which is OK I guess. Just put a fresh set of RC-1s on.

Arca_ex

iTrader: (2)

Okay that makes me feel better about running -4 degrees then.
I think with the increased grip of the Hoosiers and my super high front spring rate it might turn out to be perfect.

Arca_ex

iTrader: (2)

Results:

Crushed all of the things.

Stupid MCE dyno showed up to the track all the way from California unannounced... for some reason...
But this time the random number generator swayed in my favor and my top pull was 131WHP and my current horsepower cap is 136WHP so my times stand.

Got first both days in TTE. I believe there were 6 competitors on Saturday and 5 competitors on Sunday.

Set a new TTE track record. Old record was a 1:05.8 that has stood since 2013. New lap that I put down was a 1:04.5. Video is below.

The car now being corner balanced and aligned feels a lot better.

SADfab delrin bushings are pretty awesome. Car feels more connected to the ground, and NVH didn't really go up at all from what I can tell, but my car is already an NVH nightmare. I'll do a separate review thread on the kit soon. The only changes since my last run were corner balance, alignment, and SADfab bushings and I went from a 1:05.6 to a 1:04.5. The day I did the faster time the weather was a bit more favorable but I'm a firm believer that the bushing kit did help with dropping time.


Pictures and video:

Arca_ex

iTrader: (2)

So started getting the F350 up to snuff for towing.

Got an Edge Insight CTS2 display to monitor everything instead of a bunch of individual gauges. Noticed that the truck was only hitting 10PSI of boost by like 2500 RPM. Thought maybe charge pipe couplers, boost leak, common problem, I'll take care of it when I rip into things.

Went to install an S&B cold air intake kit and discovered this. Super lame. I don't think the previous owner knew, the guy barely had it for like 4,000 miles. Truck runs and drives great but now that I think about it, pretty sluggish. I think the intercooler caught most of everything, engine health seems fine and barely has any blow by when you remove the oil cap. All the charge pipes, intercooler, etc. are all coated in oil and sludge because the crankcase vents straight to the intake pre-turbo, so I'm guessing that helped with catching the smaller bits.

Roda

Yikes!

That's a bummer.

Mobius

iTrader: (2)

The intercooler on that truck is probably as wide as the miata, correct? Lots of room to catch stuff.

Nice job on TTE!

Efini~FC3S

iTrader: (4)

You were planning on doing a turbo upgrade on the truck anyway, right?

Arca_ex

iTrader: (2)

Yeah the stock intercooler core is 30x18x2" and is a tube and fin unit. Luckily I already have a new one sitting here anyways so I won't have to try and clean that out. Most diesel intercoolers are like $1000 to $2000 range, which is ridiculous, but I found a "stock replacement" from CSF except it's a bar and plate unit. It shows up and it's actually a 3" thick core so that was a win. $290 shipped for a 46 pound intercooler with cast aluminum end tanks.

And yeah I was planning on doing a turbo upgrade but not for at least a couple months. Also it sucks knowing that the engine could possibly have ingested metal but it seems healthy to me.

Arca_ex

iTrader: (2)

I should just turn this into a diesel build thread for like the next week...

Tearing into everything now. New turbo gets here today.

The following pictures are:

1. Take out all of the things. Still need to remove stock turbo and intake spider and exhaust.

2. This crap is packed into the hotside endtank of the intercooler. It looks like dog hair soaked in oil. At this point I'm guessing a stock panel filter disintegrated, then a rock got into the compressor wheel and chewed it up.

3. You can see a chunk of compressor wheel stuck in the endtank.

4. New intercooler. It is a 3" thick core instead of the 2" thick stock core. Also stock is tube and fin, this one is bar and plate and weighs almost 50lbs. Made by CSF, got it for less than $300 shipped so this is a ******* steal compared to all of the $1000+ diesel intercoolers out there. I like CSF and they make quality products, I guess they just haven't realized they can charge a huge diesel tax yet.

Roda

Maybe not with Ford... their Dodge stock replacement (tube/fin) is $270, the bar/plate version is $900...

Arca_ex

iTrader: (2)

Probably not the case. What year/engine are you looking at?

They do have a couple of like way bigger than stock options at that price range for the Fords as well. I used their online catalog to find a part number then ordered from JC Whitney with a coupon code.

Roda

2004.5 Cummins 5.9

I just checked a couple of vendors, didn't go through their catalog. I don't really need one at the moment... just looked out of curiosity. Still working on some suspension mods to deal with the camper and trailer...

Arca_ex

iTrader: (2)

Try searching for CSF 6025.

That should be it. Looks like around $350 from most places.

I'm using this catalog. Click on the part to see a drawing and specs. Mine said it was a 2" bar and plate core but when it got here it is definitely a 3" unit.

http://199.237.237.73/CSF_CATALOG/

Roda

Thanks! I'll check it out.

Efini~FC3S

iTrader: (4)

When you say "new turbo" do you mean a stock replacement one or some kind of upgrade?

Arca_ex

iTrader: (2)

Upgrade.

It's called a Garrett GTP38r Powermax but the wheel dimensions I believe are nearly identical to a GTX4088r.

Bigger, has 1.0 A/R turbine housing and it's a ball bearing turbo instead of journal bearing. Supposedly does everything better, from spool, to power, to lower EGT's etc.

EFR9180 for size reference, the 9180 has larger wheel dimensions but the housings are not as large.

Also I'm impressed with ford. They were doing twin scroll v-band internally wastegated hotsides back in 1999.