Rebuild all the salvage Miatas! ASS!
12-09-2014, 07:51 PM
#1002
Cpt. Slow
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Are the rear fenders cut up for the wide body? If not then I think it's a great buy. Slap some stock fenders and 15x8s with some 205s on there and start going to track days.
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12-09-2014, 08:00 PM
#1003
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Front fenders removed for widebody and replaced with these. Rear fenders are cut up. Also remember, rear quarters aren't exactly easily swapped out.
That's really my only hesitation, I wanted to run 205's. But it seems to me that rivals on X9's on an NA car should be fine for me for learning.
.... and then, post V8 swap and a couple years learning to drive the car, I can throw the X10's on there and go to town
That's really my only hesitation, I wanted to run 205's. But it seems to me that rivals on X9's on an NA car should be fine for me for learning.
.... and then, post V8 swap and a couple years learning to drive the car, I can throw the X10's on there and go to town
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12-09-2014, 09:27 PM
#1010
SADFab Destructive Testing Engineer
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Definition of durability? I mean a tire wall will break any fender, widebody or not. But I got new fenders for $160 total, widebody is $350+shipping without body work.
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12-09-2014, 09:29 PM
#1011
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Sure, replacement cost is much higher. But I'm really concerned about that broken fender, and how it bodes for the future. He didn't hit a wall, tire contacted it or tire slag hit it.
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12-09-2014, 11:24 PM
#1016
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After the first it didn't seem to change much. I don't know how they'll rate this one since I wasn't the driver.
They definitely took care of me though. I'm paying like $110/mo for full coverage on the Miata and our jetta. Not fantastic but when I moved here I was getting quotes for double that. This friggin spendy here.
They definitely took care of me though. I'm paying like $110/mo for full coverage on the Miata and our jetta. Not fantastic but when I moved here I was getting quotes for double that. This friggin spendy here.
Last edited by turbofan; 12-10-2014 at 02:56 AM.
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12-11-2014, 11:26 AM
#1018
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Slow down imo. Slow your roll and be more methodical with both your driving and miata building. You're rushing into stuff and trying to get to the end before the slow build up. I have 15k in my car and there are plenty of places where I dumped cash and didn't need to in the name of wanting the best.
Having an NA track car is about having something cheap, reliable and checks the boxes. You won't have power so you better have the best suspension you can afford for example anything else won't do imo. And this is true in another couple of key areas.
You don't want a wide body track car because A) your'e locked into wheel/tire sizes, B) walking away from the shell is a pita. With that car you're basically paying for a ton of stuff you're going to not need or replace. Also... with an NA car you're either bp4w or vvt or gtfo. imo. There's a reason that owner was building a vvt motor...
(i had a big long post typed up... but lost it. In retrospect it's for the best, it came across as preachy and dickish)
Having an NA track car is about having something cheap, reliable and checks the boxes. You won't have power so you better have the best suspension you can afford for example anything else won't do imo. And this is true in another couple of key areas.
You don't want a wide body track car because A) your'e locked into wheel/tire sizes, B) walking away from the shell is a pita. With that car you're basically paying for a ton of stuff you're going to not need or replace. Also... with an NA car you're either bp4w or vvt or gtfo. imo. There's a reason that owner was building a vvt motor...
(i had a big long post typed up... but lost it. In retrospect it's for the best, it came across as preachy and dickish)
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12-11-2014, 11:38 AM
#1019
SADFab Destructive Testing Engineer
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Slow down imo. Slow your roll and be more methodical with both your driving and miata building. You're rushing into stuff and trying to get to the end before the slow build up. I have 15k in my car and there are plenty of places where I dumped cash and didn't need to in the name of wanting the best.
Having an NA track car is about having something cheap, reliable and checks the boxes. You won't have power so you better have the best suspension you can afford for example anything else won't do imo. And this is true in another couple of key areas.
You don't want a wide body track car because A) your'e locked into wheel/tire sizes, B) walking away from the shell is a pita. With that car you're basically paying for a ton of stuff you're going to not need or replace. Also... with an NA car you're either bp4w or vvt or gtfo. imo. There's a reason that owner was building a vvt motor...
(i had a big long post typed up... but lost it. In retrospect it's for the best, it came across as preachy and dickish)
Having an NA track car is about having something cheap, reliable and checks the boxes. You won't have power so you better have the best suspension you can afford for example anything else won't do imo. And this is true in another couple of key areas.
You don't want a wide body track car because A) your'e locked into wheel/tire sizes, B) walking away from the shell is a pita. With that car you're basically paying for a ton of stuff you're going to not need or replace. Also... with an NA car you're either bp4w or vvt or gtfo. imo. There's a reason that owner was building a vvt motor...
(i had a big long post typed up... but lost it. In retrospect it's for the best, it came across as preachy and dickish)
Another vote for something cheap from me.I crashed my first day at PIR and the only think I really hurt that day was my ego (and martins neck) I don't really care that my car got beat up because it cost me close to nothing.
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12-11-2014, 11:45 AM
#1020
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Damn dude. I've been slowly catching up on this thread and can't believe that it happened all over again. Most importantly I'm glad that everyone is ok.
I know my opinion doesn't mean anything, and it shouldn't, but I would vote for starting over with a reasonably clean but relatively plain NA8 or NB with a torsen. Bonus if it's already got a HD or BF rollbar. Spend money on a good suspension and HPDE instruction and drive the **** out of it for a year. Then start modding.
I know my opinion doesn't mean anything, and it shouldn't, but I would vote for starting over with a reasonably clean but relatively plain NA8 or NB with a torsen. Bonus if it's already got a HD or BF rollbar. Spend money on a good suspension and HPDE instruction and drive the **** out of it for a year. Then start modding.
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