Rebuild all the salvage Miatas! ASS!
#2645
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Poopypants.
Car is filthy, gets washed tomorrow.
I do not currently have excessive camber. Hopefully I did the lower bushings correctly, lol. Alignment tomorrow.
This oil cooler kit was the TSE kit. I appreciate that it's meant to be something of a DIY kit, but just some basic assembly instructions would have gone a LONG way and saved me a lot of time. **** like:
-- basic suggestions for cooler orientation
-- which fitting on the sandwich plate is out and which is return
-- What's supposed to be included in the package, so I know if something is missing. In my case, the o-rings for the connections at the cooler were missing. If I hadn't thought something was missing and messaged Andrew, I'd have been seriously pissed at severe leakage and more work. As it was, I was simply mildly annoyed at having to go to the hardware store and find o-rings. A simple packing list would have made this a non-issue.
-- how the sandwich plate should actually be installed on the block. With or without oil heater? how's it all screw together? Yes, one can **** around with the pieces for a while and figure it out, but it would be sooooo easy to include basic stuff like this. Again I realize it's a DIY kit, but if I wanted to just order a collection of parts I could have done so, and spent a bit less money. The kit is top quality, but some documentation would have been super helpful, and I told Andrew as much while he was helping me with my missing o-rings.
I do need to give him props for his responsiveness and helpfulness throughout the process, and I'll order from him again.
I ordered this too:
GM Gen IV LS2 LS3 LS4 LS7 Ignition Coils 12573190 Round Style New Set of 8 | eBay
Anyone need some coils?
Car is filthy, gets washed tomorrow.
I do not currently have excessive camber. Hopefully I did the lower bushings correctly, lol. Alignment tomorrow.
This oil cooler kit was the TSE kit. I appreciate that it's meant to be something of a DIY kit, but just some basic assembly instructions would have gone a LONG way and saved me a lot of time. **** like:
-- basic suggestions for cooler orientation
-- which fitting on the sandwich plate is out and which is return
-- What's supposed to be included in the package, so I know if something is missing. In my case, the o-rings for the connections at the cooler were missing. If I hadn't thought something was missing and messaged Andrew, I'd have been seriously pissed at severe leakage and more work. As it was, I was simply mildly annoyed at having to go to the hardware store and find o-rings. A simple packing list would have made this a non-issue.
-- how the sandwich plate should actually be installed on the block. With or without oil heater? how's it all screw together? Yes, one can **** around with the pieces for a while and figure it out, but it would be sooooo easy to include basic stuff like this. Again I realize it's a DIY kit, but if I wanted to just order a collection of parts I could have done so, and spent a bit less money. The kit is top quality, but some documentation would have been super helpful, and I told Andrew as much while he was helping me with my missing o-rings.
I do need to give him props for his responsiveness and helpfulness throughout the process, and I'll order from him again.
I ordered this too:
GM Gen IV LS2 LS3 LS4 LS7 Ignition Coils 12573190 Round Style New Set of 8 | eBay
Anyone need some coils?
#2650
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Indeed, indeed, indeed. To all that has been said.
The WG dump tube popped off last night. Managed to get it back on this morning but it's been ugly. when we replaced the bellows I didn't test fit it well enough and I had Aidan weld it in a not-ideal orientation. Either way, it's back on. the clamp stayed on the shelf under the brake booster, thankfully. Will need to get better hardware today.
The WG dump tube popped off last night. Managed to get it back on this morning but it's been ugly. when we replaced the bellows I didn't test fit it well enough and I had Aidan weld it in a not-ideal orientation. Either way, it's back on. the clamp stayed on the shelf under the brake booster, thankfully. Will need to get better hardware today.
#2652
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You are correct, I've been toying with the idea of foam around the edges on mine to get a better seal. Need to measure the distance and pick some up.
I'm not pushing my car anywhere near the limit, and Ed runs lower than max power on the track. I have a second temp sensor insalled to measure cooler effectiveness. But need to get my tinyiox up and running first.
I'm not pushing my car anywhere near the limit, and Ed runs lower than max power on the track. I have a second temp sensor insalled to measure cooler effectiveness. But need to get my tinyiox up and running first.
#2653
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I got to thinking. This cooler was too large to fit in front of the core support, which is why I put it behind the radiator.
Wouldn't a smaller cooler mounted in front of the core support be more effective than this huge cooler mounted right behind the hot radiator? Or does air temperature difference not make as much difference as surface area? also of course where it is here it's getting more airflow than it would behind the bumper where the other cooler was. Hmm.
Wouldn't a smaller cooler mounted in front of the core support be more effective than this huge cooler mounted right behind the hot radiator? Or does air temperature difference not make as much difference as surface area? also of course where it is here it's getting more airflow than it would behind the bumper where the other cooler was. Hmm.
#2659
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Likecat given, Andrew! That would have been great before I did mine, but at least the next guy will have some really useful info.
That's incorrect as far as I understand.
If in the same airflow, the oil cooler goes behind the radiator because the oil needs to be kept below 250* while coolant should be under 200*. Air coming through the oil cooler is too hot to cool the water, but air flowing through the radiator will still cool the oil.
If in the same airflow, the oil cooler goes behind the radiator because the oil needs to be kept below 250* while coolant should be under 200*. Air coming through the oil cooler is too hot to cool the water, but air flowing through the radiator will still cool the oil.
#2660
Likecat given, Andrew! That would have been great before I did mine, but at least the next guy will have some really useful info.
That's incorrect as far as I understand.
If in the same airflow, the oil cooler goes behind the radiator because the oil needs to be kept below 250* while coolant should be under 200*. Air coming through the oil cooler is too hot to cool the water, but air flowing through the radiator will still cool the oil.
That's incorrect as far as I understand.
If in the same airflow, the oil cooler goes behind the radiator because the oil needs to be kept below 250* while coolant should be under 200*. Air coming through the oil cooler is too hot to cool the water, but air flowing through the radiator will still cool the oil.
I run a similar setup on my car, using hot water exiting the engines thermostat to cool the oil via a water/oil heat exchanger. It pre-heats the oil when warming up, and then keeps it 10-20*F above the water temps.
I like your setup, looks good. As mentioned, fan will hurt cooling at speed, which is when you'll need the oil cooler to work well. So I'd run it no-fan for that reason.
I have another car that has an oil cooler with a fan, and people tracking them found removing the fan drops oil temps on the track, but raises them on the street at low speeds.
What is the distance between the core of the radiator and the cooler? I'd want that to be at least 3/4 of an inch. I think you have plenty from the pics, but hard to tell. I'd also seal the edge of the oil cooler to the face of the radiator so air going through the radiator core also travels through the oil cooler core, not around it.