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I looked at a few of your old posts. Did you ever end up turbo'ing your car? Looks like your 01 should be obd exempt in MA now. Or did you sell the car in your sig and start over?
I looked at a few of your old posts. Did you ever end up turbo'ing your car? Looks like your 01 should be obd exempt in MA now. Or did you sell the car in your sig and start over?
Just updated my signature lol but I sold that '01 in '10 because it was a rust bucket and I wasn't happy with it. Eventually went back to building Neon's but always kept an eye out for a clean NB to pop up for a good price. Bought my '99 this January that just passed, off an elderly guy who was retiring and moving to Boston. It was all stock and very well taken care of. I just picked up a red NB parts car too with a full Flyin Miata turbo kit that has sat for the last 10 years outside... The bodies junk but the turbo kit will eventually make its way into my 99 once I upgrade the old style steel intercooler setup and update the Hydra 2.5 EMS to version 2.7 so I can tune it.
Because clearly enough things hadn't derailed my plans yet so this had to happen too.
All four ******* bolts broke on the rear sway.
I've read that these kinda suck on these cars anyway. From the threads I've read, best bet is to try to take a tap and knock them out with a hammer right? Anyone have any advice on how to go about doing this?
I really don't want to deal with this right now. I might just put everything together and run it without the rear sway till the cars up on stands again to had the suspension done or something...
I helped a friend with a broken rear sway bolt not too long ago. This may or may not be the "right" way, but I hit it with a center punch, then used progressively larger stubby drill bits in a right angle drill to drill it out, until the "walls" of the bolt were thin enough to collapse it with a pair of pliers. At that point, I could push it out.
The studs are spot-welded on the backside so if you try to just hammer it out, you're probably gonna tear the subframe. Grinding it flat and drilling is the best way.
The studs are spot-welded on the backside so if you try to just hammer it out, you're probably gonna tear the subframe. Grinding it flat and drilling is the best way.
Yep I sure am. No TurboKitties for me so I just lurk. I have a yellow '92.
I'm turbokitty-less too! Well, for now. I have one sitting in the garage but it's going to be a few months till it goes in... and that's if things go according to plan ().
I helped a friend with a broken rear sway bolt not too long ago. This may or may not be the "right" way, but I hit it with a center punch, then used progressively larger stubby drill bits in a right angle drill to drill it out, until the "walls" of the bolt were thin enough to collapse it with a pair of pliers. At that point, I could push it out.
So. I think everything is set up. Roll bar is in. Sway bars are both in even though I tried to install one backwards. Thanks @MiataMan00 for catching my mistake.
Car started but was idling at 2500-3k rpm so I shut it off. Then it wouldn't start and was bucking like crazy. Waited a while and tried to start it again and it started and then the revs just started to drop and it died. Womp.
I'm so jealous of the folks that get a basemap and are driving right away lol.
Attaching two logs here from earlier today. Car wasn't idling the first time I tried things, but I went back later and tried again and this was the result.
It idles really high (3k rpm) and the afrs go very lean (18 and up) when the engine is warmed up and things are stable. Tapping the gas causes afr's to drop but then it swings in the other direction. I think I messed up during this particular log, but the next step for me is to figure out idle valve settings using the test mode. Anyone have any advice or input based on what they see?
I messed up in the first one when I had enabled test mode with too low of a value and it stalled, but when I did it the second time it was fine at 46 and then it went to 45 and stalled. I'll try again tomorrow morning.
I also included a second log, which is just after a stall where the car won't start up again and I'm met with a ton of squealing, bucking, and angry noises.
Brain has been awesome so far and Stefanst has been helping a ton too. I'm just trying to figure out how to get this thing moving soon, so till then I figure out idle!
I was reading this thread since it seemed pertinent to what I have going on, but I'm obviously not there yet, i.e. I need to get my idle valve stuff figured out first. Though is PID idle definitely not supposed to be at 1? I think mine is and I might try changing that in the morning to see if it helps with things, though it's likely not the issue here. https://www.miataturbo.net/megasquir...it-miss-84668/
Honestly the chinese turbo's don't do to badly on track. I would be far more work about my manifold cracking then the turbo having problems.
You will probably do well to never take me literally (or even seriously).
Speaking in general terms, here is what I have recently observed about FI Miatas at the track: if It isn't N/A, a Rotrex, one of FM's newer offerings with inconel, or presumably a TSE setup, its owner will be standing around with the hood up after session 2, what that "Come hither. I need to tell someone of my tales of woe." look in his eyes.
04-05-2017, 09:13 PM
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