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Injectors should go in on sunday if all goes to plan. Need to figure out a gameplan for getting the go fast bits in. I think I might see if I can pay someone to do the clutch. If I can have it done for a reasonable amount, I might just go that route. It seems like it's the most time intensive part of the process and it honestly sounds like a pain in the ***. Given the fact that it looks like I'll have 5 days off instead of 9 because of test day options, I'm trying to give myself the best chance to button this up before I enter surgery rotation hell. I'm hearing from upperclassmen that the hours are often in the realm of 4AM to 8PM everyday...and you're expected to study after that. Next break once that starts up in June will be a few days off in august. I could also always stay on the stock clutch till then and get the other stuff dialed in and buttoned up until it starts to slip and otherwise be a pain in the ***...
Bytevenom and I are planning on tackling the go-fast bits install next weekend. If I post pictures and/or a list of the ish I have on hand. Can anyone help slash chime in on stuff that I'm missing or if I'm being idiotic? Is a weekend a reasonable time frame for this?
Plan is to:
(Read the FM install instructions like 5 times)
- Pull stock exhaust and RB header (can start this myself and do through the week if the car is running decently on the mustang injectors).
- Install IC and route piping
- Tap oil pan.
- Install turbo manifold, dp, exhaust.
- Finish IC piping
- Pray to god it starts and doesn't explode.
Thoughts?
I'm going to read out to thirdgen this week and talk to him about how he had stuff set up. He included the lines and stuff that he ran on an NB1 so I just want to make sure that we don't end up doing something boneheaded that leads to the lines not reaching properly etc. Goal is to do everything without pulling the motor. Is that reasonable?
'm likely just going to let a shop do the clutch if the price is right as that's more time intensive. The stock clutch should hold for a bit. I'm going to try to install the EBC solenoid etc before going nuts with things to limit boost to 5-6 psi on the stock clutch which should last for a litttleeee bit with a 2560 or so I hope.
Anddd if anyone is around and wants to lend a hand, that would be awesome haha. I'm probably going to end up grabbing some pizza and beer depending on what folks want to do.
Bytevenom and I are planning on tackling the go-fast bits install next weekend. If I post pictures and/or a list of the ish I have on hand. Can anyone help slash chime in on stuff that I'm missing or if I'm being idiotic? Is a weekend a reasonable time frame for this?
Plan is to:
(Read the FM install instructions like 5 times)
- Pull stock exhaust and RB header (can start this myself and do through the week if the car is running decently on the mustang injectors).
- Install IC and route piping
- Tap oil pan.
- Install turbo manifold, dp, exhaust.
- Finish IC piping
- Pray to god it starts and doesn't explode.
Thoughts?
I'm going to read out to thirdgen this week and talk to him about how he had stuff set up. He included the lines and stuff that he ran on an NB1 so I just want to make sure that we don't end up doing something boneheaded that leads to the lines not reaching properly etc. Goal is to do everything without pulling the motor. Is that reasonable?
'm likely just going to let a shop do the clutch if the price is right as that's more time intensive. The stock clutch should hold for a bit. I'm going to try to install the EBC solenoid etc before going nuts with things to limit boost to 5-6 psi on the stock clutch which should last for a litttleeee bit with a 2560 or so I hope.
Anddd if anyone is around and wants to lend a hand, that would be awesome haha. I'm probably going to end up grabbing some pizza and beer depending on what folks want to do.
- Install oil feed lines
- Install water lines
- Unless you tap pan in same spot you may have problems with drain short/long
- Don't forget to clean the pan with mineral spirits + drain oil.
- You don't need to install EBC just to limit boost... You can just set boost limit in MS3. Setup EBC when you have a weekend to screw with it on it's own.
- Not sure if the FM downpipe clears without tilting motor. Plan on loosening engine mounts and tilting to the passenger side a bit.
- Install oil feed lines
- Install water lines
- Unless you tap pan in same spot you may have problems with drain short/long
- Don't forget to clean the pan with mineral spirits + drain oil.
- You don't need to install EBC just to limit boost... You can just set boost limit in MS3. Setup EBC when you have a weekend to screw with it on it's own.
- Not sure if the FM downpipe clears without tilting motor. Plan on loosening engine mounts and tilting to the passenger side a bit.
It'll be a long weekend at best.
Quick question for you.
I have an oil pressure and temp gauge and need to attach the senders. Where would you attach these? I know the oil feed for the NB goes into the spot for the stock pressure sender with a fitting that has an additional port for it. Does it make sense to add another fitting there for the aftermarket pressure sender as well?
I have an oil pressure and temp gauge and need to attach the senders. Where would you attach these? I know the oil feed for the NB goes into the spot for the stock pressure sender with a fitting that has an additional port for it. Does it make sense to add another fitting there for the aftermarket pressure sender as well?
The TSE fitting has a BSP port in the end for the oil pressure sender and one NPT port in the side for the feed line.
There is a company that has a fitting with 2 NPT side ports PRL Motorsports but you need to be careful how much 'stuff' you start hanging off the BSP thread in the block. It gets a lot of vibration and the fittings tend to be weak at the thread intersection. Also, putting an additional sensor off the side tends to get space limited because of the oil cooler sandwich.
I wanted to keep my stock gauge 'functional' fwiw and I used a remote relocation kit from Miatacage but you won't get oil temp reading without having the sensor in the oil flow which would require both the PRL Motorsports with 2 NPT ports and the Miatacage relocation to get the additional NPT for an aftermarket pressure sensor.
Hope that helps. You need to pay attention to the sensor threads.
Bytevenom and I swapped over the injectors to mustang injectors and we ran into an issue. Well, it might not have been an issue, but we thought it was so that's what it is. We tried to start the car and idled and made an insane screaming sound. We thought we had a vac leak or something with the injectors so we did everything over. This time we got a fuel leak. And then the last time when I did it myself this happened.
So yeah, that's not how the tip of an injector is supposed to look!
I had a few spares, so I swapped one over and ended up regreasing all the o-rings at Stefanst's suggestion and then buttoned things up. Primed the pump and no leak!
Car starts now. Going to take it out and try to get the VE tables dialed in again.
Oh and that crazy screaming noise at the first startup? It was probably just a vac leak. The gauge was reading AFR's in the 20's and we freaked out a bit. Turns out that you can get really high AFR's if you're getting a ton of unmetered air into the system as well. Who knew... Thanks stefanst haha.
You're welcome. And keep checking for fuel leaks. Since we don't really know what caused the leak to start with, we can't be 100% sure it's fixed permanently. I'd definitely keep opening the hood and taking a sniff for the next few times driving.
Wait...you are saying you have your factory oil pressure gauge...AND an after market one? In the same car?
Just an FYI to anyone wondering: this guy is the man.
Thanks again for your help man!
Originally Posted by stefanst
You're welcome. And keep checking for fuel leaks. Since we don't really know what caused the leak to start with, we can't be 100% sure it's fixed permanently. I'd definitely keep opening the hood and taking a sniff for the next few times driving.
I'll definitely do that. I just think that things hadn't seated properly for whatever reason. These injectors are definitely way louder than the stock ones. I kept thinking I had a fuel leak again because I'm paranoid and it was making all sorts of clicking noises!
So, I really don't want to tap the oil pan twice to get the turbo drain in AND the oil temp sensor in.
Does it make sense to run an oil filter sandwich adapter for the aftermarket oil temp and pressure sensor? Or I guess I can just wait and do an oil filter relocation and do all this ish then...
Last edited by ridethecliche; 05-05-2017 at 09:03 PM.
I guess I can do what a few others have done in the past and drill a hole in the drain bolt and do it that way. Or just drill another damn hole in the pan.
I run a temp sensor and pressure sensor in a plate. IMO the oil in the plate should be similar to the oil in the sump. Because it was just pulled through the pickup.
I guess I can do what a few others have done in the past and drill a hole in the drain bolt and do it that way. Or just drill another damn hole in the pan.
I'm assuming the engine is in the car, thus why drilling the pan is a problem. Cause if the pan is off, it takes like 10 minutes to drill/tap and screw in a fitting. Perhaps you could drill/tap near the drain plug? Then you could clean any shavings out through the new hole, and the drain. Just a thought.
04-28-2017, 01:54 AM
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