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the power figures y'all are talking about are well within the margin of error between dynos. The only way you can accurately compare 10 ish whp is if you're using the same dyno.
You shouldn't need to get under the car. There is the lower 14mm bolt at the bottom of the alternator that needs to be loosened and tightened, but I am almost positive you can get it from above.
Yay!
Originally Posted by turbofan
the power figures y'all are talking about are well within the margin of error between dynos. The only way you can accurately compare 10 ish whp is if you're using the same dyno.
LETTTT MEEEE LIVEEEEE!!!!
My point was simply that 95 for an NB1 sounds really low... More so than margin of error low unless you were on a heartbreaker dyno and even that's pushing it imho. I know I'm a bit over things because of the header. It made a decent difference with the stock ecu and I see it making more of a difference as the MS stuff is figured out.
Originally Posted by Braineack
increase the start delay on your alternator...
Way to clutter up my thread with good suggestions, logic, and guidance. Jeez.
Haha, I mean I think I'm hitting 120 and the only mod I have is a racing beat header. I've seen stock nbs dynoed in the 105-115 range afaik. Most end up between 105-110.
You should feel it when my VeeeeeVeeeeeTeeeee kicks in, yo!
Originally Posted by turbofan
the power figures y'all are talking about are well within the margin of error between dynos. The only way you can accurately compare 10 ish whp is if you're using the same dyno.
I'll have you know my butt dyno is perfectly accurate. It tells me my Miata has exactly 7569 HP. Pretty impressive, methinks.
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Last edited by Steve Dallas; 04-21-2017 at 03:40 PM.
Reason: Stoopid keyboard.
Took a study break yesterday to get to a few things I'd been putting off for a bit.
Went to brunch with my gf at a place we've been trying to get to for months.
Tried to get the wheels cleaned up. They look half decent now.
But they're still dirty AF.
Got the headlights cleaned up a bit. Need to go back and finish since I ran out of polishing compound. I'm going to redo things and then spray UV resistant clear coat over it. And thennn buff it out again. Hopefully they'll stay nice and purdy for a bit. I really hate the stock headlights on these. I can't really do a full retrofit right now because that's pricey. I'd love to do something to make things a bit better. I'd be up to try an HID kit but don't want to blind everyone else on the road... I guess that means I'm just going to have to plan for retrofits sometime.
Finally gave the car a warsh! Wheels the car came with have some code red on them now and the advanti's are getting the goods too.
I doubt this is going to be even remotely noteworthy, but I did another thing...
Just out of sheer curiosity, I'm going to go back to the same road I was on last time I did the virtual dyno run and see if there's any difference at all. heh.
Thanks to @ByteVenom for answering my dumbass questions.
HID bulbs in halogen reflectors are a bad time for those around you. You want a projector retrofit, and it's likely not as expensive as you think. I have this exact kit on my truck. It's win. Buy it. I liked it so much I did a quad projector setup on my Lincoln LS using the same projectors and ballasts.
HID bulbs in halogen reflectors are a bad time for those around you. You want a projector retrofit, and it's likely not as expensive as you think. I have this exact kit on my truck. It's win. Buy it. I liked it so much I did a quad projector setup on my Lincoln LS using the same projectors and ballasts.
Also, shame on you for selling your SV.
I'm not sure if that kit would fit in the NB1. I've seen people do the morimoto kits and they're 100 or so more. In due time I guess.
Re: SV
It was a helluva bike. I just didn't use it anywhere near enough to justify it. The miata has been great for road trips and the community for the miata is pretty similar to the SV650 community, I've found. My gf refused to get on the bike too so the miata has been good for any travel we've done. I do miss that bike though. I should have gone with a more conservative exhaust for it though. I hated riding it sometimes because of how damn loud it was. It would make my tinnitus way worse and give me a huge headache if I rode it for any appreciable length of time... even with earplugs.
I honestly don't miss not having a bike though, which I've heard is definitely a sign.
I'm not sure if that kit would fit in the NB1. I've seen people do the morimoto kits and they're 100 or so more. In due time I guess.
Physical dimensions of H1 projectors are almost identical. They're listed on the TRS site. If someone put H1 morimoto projectors into an NB1, then the kit I linked will fit.
After running the standard Acme projectors and ballasts I have a hard time believing the additional cost for the morimoto stuff is worth it.
And yeah, if you don't miss having the bike then don't worry about it. I have had a hard time letting go of my Speed Triple, but I never ride it.
Re: Intake.
Yeah... I know. I didn't have time to line everything up properly so I just put it together so I could gtfo. In any event, I did another pull on the same part of the highway as last time and these are the results. Aka, everything is pretty much the same. It felt slower with the swap... but it's also like 30 degrees warmer outside than it was during the first run.
I have some more intercooler piping and I'm going to either try to route it next to the intake manifold or see if I can sneak it around the PS reservoir. Otherwise, I'll end up with the filter between the radiator and the airbox and I have a feeling that it's going to be really bad for heatsoak right there. I've seen a bunch of old threads where emilio concluded that 18-23 inches was a good length to start off with. I'm looking forward to adding another foot or so to things and testing again to see how much of a difference it makes. I also have a cappuchino washer fluid bottle I can put on if I need more space on the intake manifold side!
Re: Bike.
I always wanted an STR. I really want to ride one still. I've had one as the background to my computer for almost two years now. Part of it is that I love being on two wheels, but I use to bike race in college (cycling). So if I'm going to go kill an hour or two to clear my head on two wheels.... I might as well get a workout in. I got most of my money back for the bike and I sold everything for more than I paid for the stock miata. I had a lot of fun with the bike, but I don't regret letting it go for now. Maybe I'll get another one someday, but at this point of time I just really wanted to learn to wrench on cars... So here we are!
Yeah, I was doing a VEAL session during that pull. I might go back through some of the logs and add more fuel to the cells that are showing up lean. I think that 5500-6100 range bump should be similar to the blue line. The tables were very similar for both pulls. Big difference was the intake.
I'm going to fix the intake and do more VEAL and review more logs. I was running VEAL the entire time, so it's likely that it's already fixed after I approved the changes.
I have a side question for folks:
It looks like there aren't open dates for my exam on the day that I wanted so I'll have to push it back a few days. I might try scheduling in a few study breaks along the way to TCB. So... My question is...
Can I life the engine up a bit from the oilpan with a floor jack if I have the car on jack stands? I'm wondering if I can jack the engine up a bit and potentially take off the hood to do the engine mounts and the coolant reroute. The goal was to do everything by pulling the engine, but it looks like that may not happen in my timeframe so I might try to install things piecemeal. Maybe even install everything with the stock clutch and run it at low boost (i.e. below clutch slipping) till I can swap to the FM1 clutch. It'll probably be for the best too since it'll let me tune along the way at a much lower power level.
On the VD-pull: What are your AFR targets? I usually shoot for 12.5-13 AFR at 100kpa- just to make sure that all the air that got into the cylinder will actually get burned, It should pick up a tiny little more hp with that.
On the VD-pull: What are your AFR targets? I usually shoot for 12.5-13 AFR at 100kpa- just to make sure that all the air that got into the cylinder will actually get burned, It should pick up a tiny little more hp with that.
I'll double check. I'm still running on brain's basemap.
It is common to use a jack to hold the engine up to exchange motor mounts.
You may find it to be easier to do the reroute by removing the PPF and raising the tail end of the transmission a little while pivoting the engine forward on its mounts. It will give you a hair more space at the back of the head.
Tried to extend the intake a bit and it fits. Doesn't seem to mess with anything, but had to push the hood down to close and it's 1-2 mm higher on the passengers side. It's not noticeable unless you're looking for it, but I can feel the ledge if I run my finger over the gap on that side but not the drivers.
I could run it to the drivers side but was concerned about heat soak because I don't think I'd be able to stick it where the stock intake drew air. I do have the tdr header heat shield blanket though.
Thoughts? Leave it as is, or flip over to the drivers side to get the hood flush?
04-21-2017, 02:12 PM
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