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6 Attachment(s)
-Johnny, I made the mistake of adding up all my costs in a excel spreadsheet, man that is a scary document hahaha
Well I'm currently waiting for the fedex man to come with my package. It's a couple of springs for my g27 brake and clutch pedal that I've heard good things about and the brake modulation on the stock g27 pedals sucks. I bought two sets since for my buddy and I, he's getting his as a christmas/birthday gift. I have to sign for the stupid package which means I'm stuck in the house until he gets here :vash: Edit: Package just came, it was for my dad and he had shipped it in my name so I got all the emails from fedex. There's some time wasted haha I never actually showed you guys those graphs of the gear ratio so here's the actual numbers, the column on the left is the speed and the column on the right is the rpms, the columns to the far right are the stock miata gearing. These are all considering a 245/40/15 and a close ratio t56 (except the stock miata obviously) If you can't figure out the graphs, well, you're hopeless. I normally upload my photos in 640x480 to make them browser friendly but it fucked with the graphs so I didn't this time. So I'm really leaning towards 3.73 but if anyone feels like telling me I'm an idiot I'd appreciate it! I made graphs of 3.73 vs 3.42 and 3.73 vs 3.9 and then included the numbers for the graphs below. Numbers: https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1451422008 3.73 vs 3.42: https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1451422008 3.73 vs 3.9 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1451422008 |
261mph in a Miata should pull a premium at race warz
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My $.02 for an autocross car, and take it with a gigantic grain of salt - running hill climbs, in a car that weighed about another 600 lbs, I had a 4.11 gear with a 26" tall, 10" wide tire. Engine HP in the 400-450 ish range. First gear, useless. Second gear, useless. Third gear, spin on the shift, and then finally traction, going uphill.
You're talking a shorter, narrower tire. I think even with 3.73's, you're going to be struggling massively for traction. If it were me, I'd put in the 3.42's knowing you've got a monster torque band, and take advantage of not having to shift too early during your auto-x run. |
don't go any lower than 3.27 rear gears. i changed from 3.09 to 3.27 and first gear is just about pointless. remember we have 23" tall tires not 26". so we can't listen to drag racers or corvette guys on this. i shift into 5th at 130 and lose a lot of acceleration, Daytona i hit 6th and it's a crawl to any increase in speed. i tick along on the freeway 80mph@2000rpm
i'm thinking about going the other way and running a 2.75 ratio. that way first gear will go to 60 and i wont need to shift for autocross. that and i can still hit 150 in 4th. but that's a different story.
Originally Posted by 18psi
(Post 1295463)
261mph in a Miata should pull a premium at race warz
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10 Attachment(s)
Originally Posted by 18psi
(Post 1295463)
261mph in a Miata should pull a premium at race warz
Originally Posted by Supe
(Post 1295467)
My $.02 for an autocross car, and take it with a gigantic grain of salt - running hill climbs, in a car that weighed about another 600 lbs, I had a 4.11 gear with a 26" tall, 10" wide tire. Engine HP in the 400-450 ish range. First gear, useless. Second gear, useless. Third gear, spin on the shift, and then finally traction, going uphill.
You're talking a shorter, narrower tire. I think even with 3.73's, you're going to be struggling massively for traction. If it were me, I'd put in the 3.42's knowing you've got a monster torque band, and take advantage of not having to shift too early during your auto-x run.
Originally Posted by OGRacing
(Post 1295480)
don't go any lower than 3.27 rear gears. i changed from 3.09 to 3.27 and first gear is just about pointless. remember we have 23" tall tires not 26". so we can't listen to drag racers or corvette guys on this. i shift into 5th at 130 and lose a lot of acceleration, Daytona i hit 6th and it's a crawl to any increase in speed. i tick along on the freeway 80mph@2000rpm
i'm thinking about going the other way and running a 2.75 ratio. that way first gear will go to 60 and i wont need to shift for autocross. that and i can still hit 150 in 4th. but that's a different story. Got a little work done the last two days, had a couple of friends over that I hadn't seen in a while so that hindered work a little bit but it's all good. I got the transmission into the car so now I need to fab a mount for it. I also cleaned up my power steering rack and put that in. Then I cleaned up the inside of the car a little since there were metal shavings everywhere and I tidied up some other stuff. I also did a bit of welding on my buddies downpipe for his 1j, just needed a flange patched up. It was definitely nice to see my friends but I really want to get some more done on the car. As soon as my quart of por15 shows up I'm gonna go over some small stuff that needs to be re-done and then put a touch of seam sealer down. That should be the rest of the bodywork for a while. I also need to extend a few wires on the holley harness, it fits great with the engine out of the car but it basically rubs between the firewall and engine when the engine is actually in the bay, which I'm not to big a fan of. I also put the fuel pump in yesterday, nothing too big but it's progress I guess, gonna start running the fuel lines today. Pictures Engine about to go in the car with the transmission: https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1451591916 Overhead shot of the engine sitting in the car and something in the shifter hole!: https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1451591916 Cleaning up the power steering rack: https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1451591916 Clean power steering rack: https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1451591916 Fuel pump: https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1451591916 |
What do you cover the por15 with?
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Originally Posted by aidandj
(Post 1295971)
What do you cover the por15 with?
Haha, basically anything I don't want to rust ever, so pretty much any bare metal or welds, it also makes a nice first coat. I'm mainly waiting on it for my spindles but there's a couple spots in the engine bay that need to be touched up with it before I can put some seam sealer down. Edit: can't fucking read. Primer and then actual paint hahaha, at least if I remember right, my dad is the one that knows more about that stuff |
No I mean what do you put over the por15
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Originally Posted by aidandj
(Post 1295973)
No I mean what do you put over the por15
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what throw out bearing did you use. i'll give you a hint if it's anything other than oem or some $300 unit throw it away. i've fought the vato zone throw out bearings for years.
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Originally Posted by OGRacing
(Post 1295975)
what throw out bearing did you use. i'll give you a hint if it's anything other than oem or some $300 unit throw it away. i've fought the vato zone throw out bearings for years.
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plenty of tilton clutches for cheap on ebay. they come off of stock cars. just get yourself a fresh set of clutch discs. and yea you will hate it on the street. i run a basic ls6 clutch and ACT flywheel good street manners and it's held up.
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May want to give Cale Aronson a call and ask about what he can do for an ACE Powerforce setup. I paid a bit more than what a McLeod twin disc costs for a custom piece for my T101a, but I think they have off the shelf LS/T56 options. Very lightweight, incredible clamping power, but you can slip it like a street clutch. For me, this was mandatory, as our hill climb parking is limited and necessitates a lot of three point turns, not to mention loading on/off trailer without destroying it like a button clutch. It is smaller diameter than a regular clutch, and comes with an aluminum flywheel.
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10 Attachment(s)
Originally Posted by Supe
(Post 1296038)
May want to give Cale Aronson a call and ask about what he can do for an ACE Powerforce setup. I paid a bit more than what a McLeod twin disc costs for a custom piece for my T101a, but I think they have off the shelf LS/T56 options. Very lightweight, incredible clamping power, but you can slip it like a street clutch. For me, this was mandatory, as our hill climb parking is limited and necessitates a lot of three point turns, not to mention loading on/off trailer without destroying it like a button clutch. It is smaller diameter than a regular clutch, and comes with an aluminum flywheel.
Well I got most the fuel lines done before my boss called me into work early, at least we're closed tomorrow. I have a couple questions since I'm not sure if I'm doing things wrong or if it was just designed to be that way. I've kinda found I'd rather buy my own parts and piece things together because I'll have a better understanding of it than if I buy a kit and try to decipher the instructions. Plus when I mix up power steering parts with the fuel parts bags it gets really confusing :facepalm: Anyway, first question. What's this?: https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1451625626 Second question, is this how flyin miata designed this? To have one side be ss braided and the other just normal fuel line. Also I think this is where they wanted me to use the adapter, obviously it needs to be connected with some line, but it just seems kinda weird. This was the only place for it though and I've used all the other pieces so I guess it has to go there. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1451625626 This is how things are mounted below, fuel filter is mounted loosely which is why it's at an awkward angle: https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1451625626 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1451625626 It seems like this is how they wanted it done and I would ask them but they're out on break so if I don't get it figured out by monday I'll give them a call. Just seems kinda tight between the tank and the chassis along with kind of a weird configuration. I honestly would have mounted it on the side with that bolt sticking out and then not used any angles on the lines, would have made things easier but whatever. Oh and here's a fuel filter, yipee! https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1451625626 |
Also screw new years eve, this holiday used to be filled with shenanigans and fireworks, now it's just a bunch of fuckheads getting drunk. I hate parties and I hate people, just want to work on the car. Anti-social engineer rant over.
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Yeah. Rubber line there. It's the only way to get it to AN. Or just weld in some bulkhead fittings.
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3 Attachment(s)
I actually bought all my fittings and lines for this mod.
Parts (omit some of the parts here) https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1451671510 Tank https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1451671510 Filter https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1451671510 You can get all of the fittings from Jegs/summit/amazon where ever you want or cheapest. I'm local to you btw |
He has an NA, you can't do that with NA fuel lines. Thats why you need the rubber lines.
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Originally Posted by aidandj
(Post 1296091)
He has an NA, you can't do that with NA fuel lines. Thats why you need the rubber lines.
cuz in order to do corvette filter in a NB, you needs to remove the in-tank pressure regulator, making it same as NA fuel system. |
The hardlines are different. They don't use the quick release fittings.
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