hi_im_sean

iTrader: (3)

i only ask because i have found so much conflicting info. some say absolutely no need with a log, some say it cant hurt. long runners and cast stuff, it seems mandatory.

at this point i figure it cant hurt if i do, but if i dont we know what can happen. my latest concern was, do i do all 3 cuts, or just 1 cut between 2 and 3, or 2 cuts between 1 and 2 and 3 and 4 like you suggest. the latter seem most appropriate and popular.



regarding whether to mill flat before or after the relief cuts are made:

if i relive first, then mill flat i run the risk of different flange thicknesses at each port. this becomes a problem on the nuts that will bridge across 2 different port flanges.

if i mill flat first then relieve, then i maintain the stresses perpendicular to the flange mating surface, which really shouldnt be that big of a deal (my assumption anyway). the nuts shoudl pull eberything in line against the head with little problem.

this is of course assuming there are any significant stresses in that direction.

so i think mill first, relief cuts last.

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

With a log I most certainly would. Most of the growth with heat on a log manifold is along the length of the flange, and its going to grow at a different rather than the flange. which is where the warpage comes from. My tubular has way less growth in that direction, it actually moves the towards and away from the block instead. Trust me, I nearly melted my work computer running the simulations.

hi_im_sean

iTrader: (3)

i borrowed and aluminum mig setup and welded a boss on the compressor housing to reclock the actuator







i milled the exhaust mani flat
i zeroed out between 2 and 3 and it took this cut. the area above the port is from filing.


+0.005


+0.0065 and that little corner of the bolt hole above the port is the only thing that is low with some mill scale sill left. done




so it was warped by roughly 0.0115"

and here is an artsy whatever closeup picture


and here is my ridiculous setup



just need to do relief cuts and deburr

RayinNorCal

iTrader: (6)

Did you mean 2O? I haven't had a chance to work on my MS1 since I updated the firmware but last I recall I could hear my fuel pump turn on every time and I'm wired to 2O like you told me.

Sean, I'm loving your fab skills!

hi_im_sean

iTrader: (3)

Thanks ray.

You could use either 2O or P as they are both spare wires once you remove the afm. Its just a matter of which pins to jump at the afm. I used O for the iat sensor.

RayinNorCal

iTrader: (6)

ah, I see. Ours is just reversed one from another, and either way the st_sign fuse doesn't need to be pulled. I didn't know that before. I'm so lazy...need to read more.

hi_im_sean

iTrader: (3)

i researched the fukin **** out of this stuff, and that was never mentioned once. meh


so the internet rumor is that BMW pt no 11-62-1-427-586 is an inconel m10-1.50x40mm. they retail for around $30, but i find em as low as $15. i ordered 2 from one ebay seller and 1 from another. this is what they look like.









2 are black oxide and one looks to be raw, and was clearly machined on a lathe. you can even see where it was mounted on a live center. the threads were rolled on all 3 of them as far as i can tell by the surface finish.

they are certainly m10-1.50x40, the only question is are they really inconel? the machined one is consistent with what ive seen in the aftermarket for inconel hardware. the oxide one would be consistent with other known oem inconel fasteners like the nissans.
i read that inconel should spark test a very dull red with fine particles. i was thinking about trying it, but i dont do sparks tests and i dont know that i could distinguish it between anything else. i guess ill run em and see what happens when turbo gets installed.

are helicoils in the manifold side turbo flange a bad idea, anyone have track use with a helicoil?

on a side note, i made a foot switch starter for cranking the engine from the front of the car when im alone.

Efini~FC3S

iTrader: (4)

If you sent me one I could tell you exactly what the chemistry was, ie exactly what grade it is. It would be a destructive test though

hi_im_sean

iTrader: (3)

that would be fugin awesome; and if it turns out to be inconel, very beneficial to the forum. they are all a little long for my use so i can cut some of the ends off. ill send you one of each (natural and oxide). i assume a piece as long as the diameter should suffice? what process are you using out of shear curiosity.

will PM for address. thanks!

Efini~FC3S

iTrader: (4)

Optical Emission Spectography most likely. Maybe wet chemistries but that's a bit over the top for this purpose.

The cut pieces you described should be sufficient.

hi_im_sean

iTrader: (3)

so back to this.
this is probing the yel/blu wire at the ignition connector, probe grounded to chassis
the wave looks like ****, and was fluctuating in waveform and what appeared to be a small fluctuating dc offset. no pulse width or frequency change with rpm.

about 0.9V P-P(and i mean from the very bottom of that nasty spike, not the actual square). i dont recall whether time was on 1 or 2 milliseconds/div, maybe it was microseconds lol. i dont see why it matters when it doesnt change with rpm.
these were all taken about 1/2 second apart

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

Why did you need bolts? You could have gotten that sizeish inconel stud from mazda for the FD RX7 turbo to manifold studs. Those are M10 studs, I forget the length.

hi_im_sean

iTrader: (3)

I was not aware of that. Im was curious if I could heli coil the manifold because I already drilled for m10 bolts, and if the bmws didn't work out, I was going to go with tse studs or maybe try the m8 nissan bolts. I don't see why heli coils wont work but everybody seems to have the opinion they won't.

I found a thread where one of the moderators mentions that he runs a heli coil with out issues in a cast mani.

I would prefer bolts for a number reasons and the Subaru flange allows for them. But if things don't work out, those would a good alternative. Is anyone using them on the track with success to verify?

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

No I dont know of any miata running them at the track. But they seem fine with the 15billion °F EGTs of the rotaries. Why would you ever choose bolts when studs are an option? Thats like choosing to buy a 1.6 when there's a 1.8 for sale right next to it for the same price.

hi_im_sean

iTrader: (3)

no need for locking compound, easier removal, if something seizes just cut it off. and please correct me if im wrong but im lead to believe a bolted joint is stronger than a studded joint? especially in a cyclically loaded fastener.

hi_im_sean

iTrader: (3)

many thanks to Efini~FC3S for material testing these bolts, we now have conclusive evidence that the bimmer crowd is full of ****. BMW part number 11-62-1-427-586 is NOT inconel. its a SS. we believe it to be of the 422 variety. comparison to inco found here

Compare Materials: Inconel 718 (2.4668, N07718, NiCr19NbMo, NA51) vs. AISI 422 (S42200) Stainless Steel :: MakeItFrom.com

422 is of the high tempurature variety, but obviously not to the extent of inconel. they will more than likely make great downpipe bolts.

results:

Cr = 11%
V = 0.3%
Mn = 0.6%
Mo = 0.8%
Ni = 0.45%
Fe = ~86%


in other news, i got a new used ignitor from ebay. "guranteed" working, tested blah blah blah. also got some bits to finish the dash panel. a usb charger and volt meter setup, and a panel mount usb for the MS. ordered an ultrashield camlock with individual shoulders. so now i need to go pick up some steel and a co2 tank to make a harness bar. door bars may be the cards to but i still need to get started on my diy frog arms. its too hot outside lately to work on anything though. bleh.

hi_im_sean

iTrader: (3)

ive been chipping away at it slowly

i still wasnt quite happy with the seat angle, it needed to recline more. i took it back out and shaved the rear mounts as thin as they could go and added a 6mm spacer to the front mounts. this gave me another 1.5 degrees. it made all the difference in the world, which surprised me for such a small change.


used ignitor from ebay=yay!





here is the evolution of a MC brace














harness bar
i started with this piece of cold rolled and made a template.






i bent it on an iron worker and this happens




no V-braking 1/4" cold rolled i guess. switched to hot rolled.








back brace
i milled the ends of a peice of 5/16x1.5" plate to half rounds with a 1.5" end mill.


i installed holes into a plate











left over 1.5"x0.120" DOM from the harness bar and 1.25"x0.137" from a previous project




seat plate thingy


all mounted up, it really solidifies the seat




the seat sliders adjust in 10mm increments. im going to turn a 7/16" pin on the lathe and obviously couldnt drill holes every 10mm. so i drilled them 30mm apart on the inner bar, and 3, 40mm apart on the outer bar. i can now use every increment on the sliders because math.




i just need to finish weld and paint everything


i added a usb charger, volt meter, panel mount usb for the megasquirt, and some various switches to the gauge panel.



and i put some labels on crooked.

psyber_0ptix

iTrader: (4)

lol

"All of it"

"Some of it"

18psi

iTrader: (76)

You LITERALLY executed my plan for an ebc switch, very well done, props.

I also really like the "log" switch. Is that wired to a signal for SD card logging?

concealer404

iTrader: (3)

This thread is too damn cool.