Been reading a ton of threads and am leaning towards the DW300.

Already have some 12 gauge wire coming in from Ballenger to facilitate the rewire.

The only concern I have with going to the DW300 is overwhelming the stock fuel pressure regulator. Never read up much on fuel systems because I haven't really touched them yet. Some people say DW300 is fine on the stock system, some say it's too much.

It's just kinda annoying because in my mind I'll probably only turn things up for some shorter pulls on the street and such. Even the guy running 305's at autocross struggles to put down 350 WHP in his NB. Basically I don't want to open a can of worms and have to redo the entire fuel system to cover a situation that amounts to 3% of the time I drive the car. I also don't want to throw the 200 in there and then be disappointed that I can't make the power I want or have the car lean out in high boost.

Might have to reach out to deatschwerks and see what they think.

My opinion is, if you have a fuel sensor on the rail like @douginjenison says, (and are tuned for it, idk if the link can compensate for fuel pressure) then go ham with the pump. Then you'll have all the fuel you'll need, and if it becomes even more a problem you can PWM control the pump (adding a SSR instead of the mech relay).

Not a bad idea either. I glanced at trying to run the pump PMW for a few minutes thinking it might be an easier way out, but realized that was going to turn into it's own project as well.

I'm going to keep poking around. I appreciate the discussion. I'd like to slap a new pump in and crank up the timing, but I might also wait until after Packwood since I'll probably be on pump gas there either way.

I strongly recommend a fuel pressure sensor before you do the bigger pump. Most fuel injectors become non-linear under 43.5 psi differential pressure, so if the differential is dropping under 43.5 psi (either by higher boost levels, or lower base pressure) then your fuel model won't be accurate and you run lean. You could even be hitting the non-linear areas at 10-12psi boost if your base pressure drops at higher injector pulse widths on E85 (Curly posted an example of this in my thread a while ago). You can get away with less differential pressure as long as the ECU can compensate and match the AFR Target like most standalones can. With a fuel pressure sensor the G4X will automatically adjust the pulse width based on what the differential pressure is (which is not static in an NB), then if the bigger fuel pump overwhelms the regulator, it will compensate without needing a full retune.

For clarity, differential fuel pressure = base fuel pressure - MGP. It changes based on altitude, boost/vacuum and actual fuel pressure in a return-less fuel system.

Yup, definitely need to do more research on my end. I'm under the impression that the NB runs 60 PSI, which would decrease linearly as boost increases (IE 20 PSI boost pressure would result in 40 PSI fuel pressure).

I'll do some research about what it takes to upgrade the fuel pressure regulator and add a pressure sensor.

I'm also probably getting ahead of myself. I need to experiment more to see if I'm actually out of fuel pump right now, because while I'm sure I don't have enough pump to run a full 15+ PSI right now, I can probably scrape by at lower boost levels and give myself some time to think through the rest of the system instead of obsessing and trying to make a quick choice.

I tried to test the fuel pump yesterday by adjusting some settings in the multi-fuel menu of the Link, but by the time I ended up going to test it (after a couple errands) the ECU was pulling the boost target due to IATs. AFRs were spot on around 155-160 KPA though. Also saw 105 C coolant putting around town with a couple pulls and the AC on, so I'm circling back to that as well now that it's getting closer to 38C/100F regularly.

I've noticed that my IAT sensor has been noisy lately. In datlogs I can see it jumping around frequently and occasionally dipping down 10+ degrees for a split second and then popping back to a reasonable value. I did start to notice this around the time I installed the flex fuel sensor, so maybe the ground from that sensor is causing the issue, but it was a good enough excuse to finally fix the IAT wiring that's been holding on for far too long.

I found some open barrel DTM connectors and decided to finally bite the bullet. I figured these would work with my current crimpers and allow me to dip my toes into the world of Deutsch connectors. These are the JRReady ones from Amazon which seem popular enough.
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...9c200db7a1.jpg

Ordered a connector kit from Ballenger and used some old wire I had lying around. Not the best crimps, but everything passed a tug test.

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...db38f05a11.jpg



This is the way I've had my IAT setup for far too long. I bought an adapter for a Mazda->GM IAT quite a while ago but failed to realize that it was for a Mazdaspeed Miata, not a Mazda Miata. I was eager to get the car running so this was one of those classic "temporary" fixes. Obviously not proper, but I only had one or two issues with it setup like this over the course of, honestly, probably a year or more. That's including a good deal of autocross as well.

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...847e9d50a9.jpg

I think I had some tape around the connectors holding them inward so in a way they gripped the other connector.

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...0c50b2dc43.jpg


Anyway, it'll work for now. I'll probably have to extend it if/when I get the IAT sensor relocated to the intercooler, but I wanted to have something secure. Still unsure if it fixed the noise issue, but at least I don't have to worry about it disconnecting in the future.


https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...8b12892f65.jpg



Clipping the stock harness was one of the reasons I was hesitant to do this job, but at this point oh well. I should've clipped the OEM connector with a bit more wire on it so I'd have a pigtail, but I don't see that connector being reused any time soon, if ever.



https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...ecfe5dc1c8.jpg


In other news I got a bit of a bonus at work, so I threw a bit at the mortgage and a bit is going to the car. After driving my Subaru around in the sun and realizing how much of a difference tint makes, I've got the car scheduled to get the windows tinted later this week. I'm thinking I'll do 50% to try and get a good balance of visibility and heat rejection. Anybody have suggestions/experience there? My Subaru's is so dark I have to roll the windows down at night when I'm parking (PO installed it so no idea the percentage).

I'm also still trying to keep myself from buying a new turbo. Pulsar got a few stateside that cut $85 on shipping... Tempting. One thing that's holding me back is that I was looking at getting the 11.6 PSI wastegate but they only have the 7.4 PSI wastegates without the shipping charge. Not sure if that would matter that much. I've heard people say you should get a wastegate about 1/2 of the target PSI you want to run but I haven't noticed issues running higher boost on my current setup with a 6-7 PSI wastegate spring.

I also snagged a DW200 during Deatschwerks 4th of July sale. Basically just saved shipping costs, but I'll take it. I messaged DW about the pump and they said the DW200 can do 400 WHP and that their calculator is conservative. I think that's BS because their calculator aligned pretty well with what I was getting from other calculators, but who knows. I figure the 200 will be enough pump for just about everything I plan to do with the car. If I get it up to 350 WHP I'll be pushing the limits of the pump for sure, but realistically that'll be some street pulls and will account for 2% of the time the cars driven. I don't plan on tracking (if I ever actually get this thing to a track...) or autocrossing at that power level, so I think that should be fine.

On that note, I did fiddle with the tune a week or so ago and was able to get the car to hold AFRs on E85 at ~10 PSI. Refilled the tank and was able to get up to ~70% ethanol content. Still playing with timing, but the car seems pretty happy so far. Realistically I should get the new pump installed, turn up the boost and add some timing and see how the car feels before throwing money into a new turbo, but that seems way too sensical.

New 3d print day. I drew these up last week after being unhappy with the P Clamps I got. The holes on the P clamps are always just a bit too small for the bolts I want to use and they're surprisingly difficult to drill out.
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...1782df9830.jpg
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...fcc88949d0.jpg


These were printed out of TPU which is flexible. They're not the most secure hold, but they should cushion the fuel hoses from rubbing if nothing else. The holes for the bolts were just tight enough that I was able to press fit them on and don't expect them to go anywhere. Realistically these lines are probably fine without the guides, but it was a fun project and $0.50 for all 3.

Cooling issues are still prevalent. Spoiler alert, but I ended up getting a SuperMiata rad last week and installed it over the weekend. Initially I threw it in with no modifications to my existing ducting and using the same coolant I pulled out of the Mishi to compare the two. Long story short the radiator so far has been performing worse than the Mishi, but I'm still working on giving it a fair chance. I drained the old coolant yesterday and filled the rad completely with distilled water and the better part of a bottle of rislone's water wetter equivalent. I still wasn't able to hold temps on the freeway at 80 with AC on. TBF I couldn't do that with the Mishi either, but it took longer to see temps rise to concerning levels based on my testing.

I had taped the ducting to the underside of the SM rad, but the tape failed since the bottom of the SM rad sits a decent bit higher than the Mishi, which was causing a lot more pull on the tape than with the Mishi. This morning I ran out and adding weather stripping in a handful of places and did what I could to seal the coroplast to the underside of the SM rad. Punching a couple holes in the coroplast helped a good amount with that, and I found a stud that I threw a nut/washer on to help hold the sheet up. I also sealed the bottom of the fans to the radiator, which I didn't do on the first pass.

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...ff76805961.jpg


I'm still curious about that, I figured not sealing the fans would allow better airflow at speed, while sealing the fans would provide better performance at low speed when the fans are doing more. I could also see the shrouds acting like an exhaust duct though, in which case I think sealing would improve performance all over.
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...0cfa98062e.jpg
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...ae81b0366e.jpg



I ended up trimming the foam shown here since it was a super tight fit with the new rad, but you get the point.

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...6a298c8512.jpg



So we'll see what it looks like with those changes. I've been driving the same loop of roads and datalogging the temps. So far the original setup with the Mishimoto has preformed the best. Now, big asterisk because that's far from scientific and while I've tried to be keep ambient temps similar when testing, there's still a lot of variables at play. Also, while most of the ducting I had in place fits the SM rad quite well, it was built around the Mishi setup and, as mentioned before, the bottom panel was not sealed very well. Didn't exactly set the SM rad up for success, but I was curious to see how it would perform with limited prep given its "The proven best crossflow for the 90-05 Miata".
I'll be roadtripping about 3 hours each way to a buddy's house this weekend and getting an autocross in, so that'll be a good shakedown. Looks like it'll be about 33 C/ 91 F when roadtripping and have a high of 36 C/97 F:firedevil at autocross, so that should be a pretty good indicator of if I've done enough or if there's more to do. We probably won't run that late into the afternoon though because nobody wants to stand out in, or beat on their car in that hot of weather.

I wonder where the issue is. I'd say i'm surprised that the mishimoto took longer to get to temp than the SM, but it likely has more thermal mass to it. (water mass, and maybe aluminum mass)
I don't think your ducting is any worse than mine being the OE ducting with some foam to seal.

Granted, you are making a fair amount more power than I am.

Gotta say I'm very surprised by your experience with the SM radiator. Have you burped the system to make sure there are no bubbles? I didn't see mention of that on your post.

Yes, I burped with a bleeder funnel each time I've refilled the rad and used the bleeder screw on the reroute. ETA - I do have some coolant hoses that run up and down more than necessary, so maybe I can simplify those to try to help eliminate any bubbles, but I figure those would work themselves out over time either way.

The Mishimoto is a thicker core for sure (~2 inches), so there is a good chance it just took longer to get to temp because there was more fluid to sink the heat into. Again, this is just me driving around and looking at the datalogs. I'm trying to be pretty consistent with it, but it's not perfect by any means. The first outing with the SM Rad saw 105 C coolant temps before I kicked off AC.

I'm also surprised by this. I get that the cooling stack is packed in there pretty tight, but I feel like I've done a pretty decent job of beefing up the cooling system and it still struggles. My ducting isn't perfect and my hood vents probably aren't in the perfect locations, but I still think this all should be good enough to putt around town with AC on. FWIW when I've been testing I'm running about 10 PSI on E85, doing 2 pulls (one to 40, one to 80) over the course of probably 20 minutes of driving and have both fans running pretty much the whole time. I pressure tested the system a couple months ago and it was fine. I don't leak or burn coolant. I've got a reroute and an 80 C thermostat... IDK :dunno:

Have you tried logging the difference in cooling with fans off vs on at speed?
With a manometer and my OE fans I saw a huge increase in Differential Pressure between the opening of the bumper, and just behind the fans at the engine when the fans were on at 60mph, and even 30mph the DP increased with fan activation.

Yup. I set the fans to disable over ~40 MPH after we were talking and did a test drive. I don't have the data on hand, but it was pretty obvious that it was worse.

With the AC on does the link turn on the fans above the "shutoff speed"? Not that this is going to fix it, but another thing to check.

I disabled the "shutoff speed" so right now the fans run regardless of what speed the car is moving. Not sure if you're saying to try disabling the fans at speed unless AC is on, or to just kill them altogether.

I'm saying that if you ran the AC on, and the link doesn't turn off the fans over speed when AC is on, then that may be a cause of faster to "overheat" with AC on, but not off.
I'd say the fans should always be off over ~40, AC or no AC.

I suppose it's worth another shot. I think the Link does lock both of the fans out, but I'll need to double check that and make sure I'm using the right speed source (driven vs undriven wheels).

Sorry if this has been covered already but how do your AC condenser fins look? As far as the cooling stack goes, you've made improvements to the "exhaust" side of things with the hood vents, added ducting to help at the inlet, and taken the radiator itself out of the equation as a weak point... your cooling system at this point is made up of proven components, none of which should be a weak link.

Your cooling system performance did improve a bit when you added the additional hood vents recently, correct? Not a direct comparison, but I ran into an interesting finding when I added more hood vents after making my air dam. I was running as small of a bumper inlet as possible to try and convince myself that the added aero benefit was worth it. The car was running hot so I added another round of hood vents to try and keep temps down. That did almost nothing, then I opened up the bumper inlet just a tiny bit and CLT's dropped pretty substantially. Lesson learned, the outlet is only a restriction if you're getting enough air intothe heat exchangers. I.E. if the vents did almost nothing, I might look for a potential restriction in airflow through the cooling stack.

Curly mentioned the condenser as well. I've looked at the AC condenser and did attempt to clean it out when I had the old rad out recently. I don't have a great way to clean it without dismantling the entire cooling stack, but it didn't look bad from what I could see. ETA - I might grab a can of foaming coil cleaner that's designed for home ac units and see what that does. If nothing else it might get any residue off the surface of the fins.

It is super close to the radiator though. I was actually planning to do a separate post about the SM rad vs the Mishi rad, but the fitment of the SM rad was super tight with the condenser. It was mainly fouling on the mounting brackets of the condenser, but still super close in general.

The extra hood vents didn't seem to make a big difference, but I also didn't test those in a very scientific way. I kicked the idea around that maybe my thermostat isn't fully opening, but I don't want to explore that theory too much since the reroute makes that a pain to check/swap out. I will if it comes to that, but I'd really rather not. I'm planning to try bleeding the system again and see what happens.

In other news, I'm an idiot and apparently the DW100 can keep up with the 2560 at ~15 PSI on E85. I was curious last night, flipped the switch and kept an eye on AFRs. It seemed to be pretty happy holding in the 11s or low 12s. No idea what pressure looks like, and I'm going to feel much more comfortable with the DW200, but I might give it a go this weekend.

Found a photo I took of the back of the condenser when I had the rad out. You can see where the ducting is peaking out just over the top of it.

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...8696312592.jpg

What's the other side of the condenser look like? I was more curious about bent/flattened fins. Obviously the side in the photo isn't taking road debris to the face but overall that condenser looks pretty good for its age. Cleaning it out might help but I was more concerned about gravel and debris damaging the fins and plugging it up. I'll blow my radiator/oil cooler stack out from behind with low pressure compressed air once every month or so, at least as well as possible without removing the fan/shroud. Never noticed a difference in cooling before and after but I'm usually able to blow a decent bit of pebbles, tire shards, bugs, etc out and can't imagine that's hurting.

On the other note, glad to hear you got fuel delivery seemingly dialed in with the DW100. 15psi on ~e70's gotta be a hoot!