I'm really interested to see what this thing looks like when I'm trying to do higher duty cycles at high RPM. I assume at higher boost levels it will still creep like it did on wastegate but I could be wrong. I'm hoping I'm able to run 20+ PSI with a reasonably flat boost curve, but we'll see.

I'm still on a FM Stage 1 clutch, so that'll be the next thing to go. Frankly I'm surprised I haven't slipped it already around 190 KPA.

It won't creep at higher boost levels. Less air trying to leave out the WG. Mines rock steady once over about 14psi and will never creep above that.

Cold weather and ms3x boost control, however, is an issue. I assume your link is gonna be way better in that regard.

Super interesting re: the PTX efficiency creating the need for a downward tapering boost curve. Good "problem" to have!

Yeah, it's definitely going to be a different looking table compared to the old 2560. I'm thinking I'll have the table dialed in here before autocross and will use logs from autocross this weekend for some fine tuning. For example, here is a pull from last night where a GTI (maybe an R?) decided to pick on a poor little Miata.

As always, I've already changed the table here, so the log and table don't correlate, but I think Wastegate %DC 2 (which is what was active in the log below) should be pretty close to holding 220 KPA now. In the log below I hit about 218 KPA in the 4500-4700 RPM range which then tapered down to about 207 by redline. Also, notice anything funny with the KPA readings there at the end?

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...4b5abae332.png



I was getting close to redline and thought, "Might as well hit the flatshift while I'm at it", grabbed the next gear and heard a loud pop. Pretty sure that's where you can see my foot lift a bit in the TPS trace. Trans was still working, engine was revving, turbo was spooling. I figured maybe it was an exhaust backfire, although it didn't sound quite right and the turbo started sounding weirdly like a chirping cricket when it started spooling. I drove the rest of the way home and sure enough....


https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...c0659a07e9.jpg


I remember when I spec'd the Kraken kit that they had different intercooler piping options based on which style of T25 turbo you had. The older turbo I had on here had a removable flange for the outlet of the compressor which caused it to stick up a bit further. I'm not sure if I should look into a different elbow now, but I got it reattached this morning before work and it seems pretty secure so I'll run it this weekend and see how it goes. I believe this is the first time I've had any of the couplers blow aside from a time or two right after the car was initially turbo'd.

Also, I did start another thread about the leaking oil fitting and I am emailing Pulsar support right now. TLDR I drilled out the restrictor where it was fouling on the CHRA flare and now the fitting seems to be seating properly. I'd consider it a workaround for now, but even after getting the car into boost and a few heatcycles everything looks pretty nice and dry.

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...fafe0cd4ca.jpg




And just for fun I threw that pull into virtual dyno. No idea what the grade of the road was, so this could be pretty far off, but we're getting there. Unfortunately I'm still running the FM Stage 1 clutch, so I don't imagine I can run too much more power before it slips. FM quotes it at 318 lb/ft at the crank which assuming 10-15% loss would be about 270-285 wheel torque. I guess 3 lb/ft is a pretty good amount of headroom :bigtu: For now 220 KPA will probably be my high boost setting and I'll try to level off the boost curve. Once I get that figured out and do a bit more low boost testing I'll determine what level I'll run most of the time.



https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...3a9591b02a.jpg

Haha, sh*t. I remember thinking it was all over the first time I blew a coupler off. If VD is close, that's great power for 220kpa!

Holy COW SimBa! I think you need to change your car's moniker...

Haha, thanks guys. I think it's probably pretty close. As a certified VirtualDyno-aholic™ I saw around 250 WHP on wastegate with a good amount of boost creep, about 270 WHP around 190 KPA and now about 290 at 220 KPA. I would put a big asterisk on all of that though, as the 220 KPA graph is the only one that's smooth enough for me to consider it "good". The others require a lot of smoothing to look decent.

I would like to figure out if VD will load more data points based on the sampling frequency in the log. In other words, I want to see if I can get more accurate data by turning up the sampling rate on the ECU. Link will do 1000 HZ when logging to the ECU, so I'm wondering if sampling the parameters that VD cares about (mainly RPM I suppose) would cause VD to get any more accurate.

Regardless, once the boost control is fine tuned a bit further to correct for the boost tapering off at high rpm (and creeping at lower boost levels...), I think 300 WHP at 220 KPA should be about right. Peak hp on that last graph was when boost had sagged to about 210 KPA, so another 1.5 pounds of boost (IE 10 KPA) should probably close the gap.

Yeah buddy! 300whp club :friday:

I bet she rips. I know how mine feels at 200+kpa and it's a riot. Sorry to hear about the fitting issue, but once you get it on there and sealed I'd call that a "fix" not a "workaround", as long as you didn't have to use some kinda sealant to get it to seal. That restrictor basically never needs to come off again.

Also, 200+KPA flat shifts is crazy man. I kinda have transmission PTSD and don't wanna go back into the car anytime soon, but that freaks me out. I bet it feels amazing though.

Autocross is tomorrow, so yesterday I went out to get the car back together. I had pulled the undertray when I was fitting the new return line and hadn't put it back on, so I figured I'd get that done. While I had the front end up in the air I decided to poke around and do a little bolt check in the front end. I've been hearing a screeching sound coming from the drivers front for a couple weeks now. It only happens in reverse and I already did a brief look but I figured I'd check again to try and find the source. It was pretty obnoxious and a bit embarrassing when backing out of anywhere.

Well when I was poking around in there I grabbed the wheel and did a little pressing/pulling and felt a bit of movement and a bit of noise like something was moving around. I've never felt a bad wheel bearing, but from everything I've heard that's exactly what the symptom is. I pulled the wheel and the rotor still felt like it had some play, so I pulled the caliper and sure enough the hub had some play and made a nice little clicking noise.

Also, if you're going to be pulling calipers, I highly recommend buying a new turbo first because the box is the perfect height to rest the caliper on.

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...f32b046f75.jpg



Thankfully this was yesterday morning, so I pulled the hub and figured I could either get a cheap one from Amazon/Autozone as a temporary fix, or see what SuperMiata had for shipping options. I've been thinking about chubs a lot recently, and frankly probably should have gotten some chubs instead of a new turbo, but apparently my car decided that I was going to get both. Also, I've seen everyone else talk about wanting to get a chub or four, and I didn't want to feel left out.

Well shout out to SuperMiata because after chatting with them I had 4 chubs in my hands about 24 hours later.

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...40d82cc4e.jpeg
Needs more Jpeg

I ended up pulling both front hubs/bearings and swapped on the new ones. The rears felt fine (I think, I should probably double check) but will be going on soon, and probably before the track day since I have them on hand.

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...0c1d5b0e07.jpg
Dinged up the spindle a bit trying to get the nut off. A file was able to clean that up pretty easily


https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...457b96a2f2.jpg



https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...e66726088f.jpg



https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...b6dbcf0488.jpg


Overall I'm pretty stoked on these. One reason I wanted to get them was for the longer studs. My wheels hit the shock top hats when they compress fully, so these should allow me to run a bit larger of a spacer to try and get the wheels away from the shocks. One of the tone rings for the ABS wasn't pressed on quite evenly, so it has a bit of in/out play when the wheel rotates. I don't have ABS so I don't see it being a big deal. If I do get ABS on the car or add wheel speed sensors for other reasons I'll probably try to sort that out.

Does anyone on here have a record player? I'd like to see what my rotors sound like.

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...60adec52a0.jpg


Brakes are definitely on the list for the winter, if not before. I haven't got a good look at the pads for a while but I knew they were on their way out. I've got some old track pads that I'll throw on for ORP, but I think once I get back I'll run the track pads until I have a good idea of what I want for next season and then I'll overhaul the brakes.

Also, here are some photos of one of the hubs I removed. Not sure how well it will come across on camera, but the first photo should show the center of the hub pressed in, while the second photo should show how much I was able to pull that out with a pick. I'm assuming they're not supposed to do this. I heard clicking when I shook either of the removed bearings.
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...018dc42edb.jpg
Flush
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...888df54e50.jpg
Notice how raised the right side is.

So, not quite what I had planned for, but thankfully it seems to have worked out. Definitely happy to have my hands on some chubs and to have the old maraca-esque bearings on the work bench. The car's getting a shakedown on the way to a friends house tonight and we'll get the RT660+s thrown on tonight. If I'm able to collect a bit more data tonight I think I'm going to try running closed loop boost control tomorrow, but we'll see. As close to the limit of this clutch as I am, a small overshoot at high boost might be enough to slip it.

PS - I opened a couple of new checking accounts recently to get the sign on bonus. Pretty sure each of those is $300 so we'll just say that the banks paid for the turbo and I paid for the chubs :idea:

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...cf3b231b1d.png

Autocross this weekend went pretty well. I spent the majority of the weekend overdriving the car and doing drifts and rolling burnouts, which was fun, but not fast. The rear of the car was really loose on Saturday, not just due to my lack of throttle control. Definitely could be a technique issue from me, but I was able to correct it a bit by softening the rear suspension by about 1/3 of the adjustment range. On Sunday I softened the front a bit as well and that (probably coupled with me not overdriving as much) seemed to help.

I ran all of Saturday on low boost but got some courage on Sunday to flip the switch. It was more manageable than I expected as far as keeping the car from spinning, but I definitely spun the tires way more than I should have. Again, fun and likely entertaining for the people watching, but not fast. I actually ended up taking passengers on every run aside from my last on Sunday.

A couple small mishaps. One of my fans stopped running. I remember looking at the fans and thinking, "Isn't that the AC fan that's running and not the main engine fan? If that fan is on the other one should be as well." I came across the line on one of my afternoon runs and the CEL was on indicating high coolant temps. Thankfully when I pulled logs I was able to see it only got to ~106 C (225 F) and that was right at the end of the run. I fiddled with the connector a bit and the fan kicked back on. After the event I pulled the connector and sprayed some contact cleaner in there, so hopefully that's the end of that.

On my last, and only solo run on Sunday, I blew that same intercooler coupler off which ended that run. Thankfully I was able to let the car cool down and popped the coupler back on before driving home. Last night I put the coupler back on and then installed the pipe that connects to it, which allowed me to get the coupler on there a bit more securely. I'm still thinking I'll need to find a different coupler, but we'll see. I did hit boost cut a couple times and ended up raising the limit there, so at some point the car saw around 230 KPA or higher (actually glanced at a log just now and saw 234 KPA). From a tuning perspective, one thing I failed to think about was my IAT correction for the boost controller. I have a table setup to add wastegate duty cycle at higher IATs to hit targets, so I lower the target boost when the IATs are hot, but add duty cycle to the wastegate to get closer to hitting the target. Similarly, I pull wastegate duty cycle in the cold to try and hit targets. Well, when I switched to open loop it takes away any targets, so the correction just increases the boost duty, which shouldn't matter if your tables are dialed in really well, but... well I'm a "tuner". I'll probably pick through data a bit more today, do some more pulls to get the wastegate table dialed in and then get back to closed loop later this week.

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...832fa106bc.jpg
Turbo'd to NA real quick


Clutch held up surprisingly and the chubs seem to have fixed my squealing in reverse which is great. I'm hoping to get the rears done before heading out to ORP, but I'm pretty busy with other stuff so we'll see if I find the time. They'd already be on if they were as easy as the fronts, but I'm not too keen on rushing a job that involves pressing/beating bearings.

One of the reasons I wanted to get the chubs was also to add more spacers to the front wheels. I'm still rubbing on the top hat of the shock but didn't want to add any more spacers without having more threads for the lug nuts to grab. This hasn't visibly damaged any of my tires at this point but it's obviously not a good setup. Also note that at one point I hit this with some black spray paint to see if it was actively rubbing, so that is what you see on the top of the spring.

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...e0d3b8bea8.jpg



Top Gun photos were posted recently. It looks like my brake rotor is glowing here but I'm pretty sure it's just a cone reflection.

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...f159d24f9a.jpg


https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...d2bad9c12f.jpg

A small anecdote to wrap the update.

On Saturday morning I was chatting with a novice who had a black NB that I recognized from fb marketplace. After a few minutes chatting about the car he asked/realized which car was mine. Apparently he saw my car at an event earlier this year or last year and thought it was the coolest car out there to the point that it made him want to pick up an NB. Super flattering experience. I ended up riding along in his car for a couple runs and giving some feedback and thankfully it worked out for me to get him in my car on Sunday for a run. I made sure to let him know it's all downhill from here and recounted when I had a similar experience in a friends turbo NA. Overall just a really cool interaction.

Pretty sick hearing the stoke about your car from another driver, especially given the state that you picked it up in!

Super cool the Link has a table for boost control correction based on IAT. You keep bringing up tables in that ECU that I've never heard of or thought about haha.

So many tables man, and on a lot of them you can change both axis if you want to. Takes some getting used to, but the flexibility is pretty insane.

I also forgot to mention, but I dinged up my bumper plowing through some cones this weekend. I'm guessing that because I had the brakes off the car for the hubs that I needed to do a quick rebed of the brakes. The first couple times I went to hit them on course they did very little and I ended up smashing some cones. The bumpers sagging a bit and some paint/fiberglass chipped off, but nothing too crazy. I'll get that fixed up pretty quickly I assume.

Someone already uploaded some photos from this weekend. She squats pretty good under boost now and you can really feel the front end lighten up. Might be time to start thinking about adding a splitter like I've wanted to do for a while now.

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...1e49799531.jpg


Damn... this photo also makes me want to fix the alignment and missing chunk of the side skirt.




https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...1aa8295196.jpg

That first one looks good, bum down, power up!

I hope you people have bullet-proof eyes. You don't need vizors, then throw them away - every gram counts y'know ...

Splitter time, splitter time. Looks like the car's handling well and you're comfortable driving it at the limit. Time to throw a wrench in that and learn it all over again!

Haha for real, stoked to see what you do next as far as aero goes. If you do add a splitter, I vote it has to be color-matched army green. Car looks good all squatted out too. Good sh*t.

I can definitely feel it on the street. Doing a 3rd gear pull recently was the first time I felt like the front end started pulling up. It was a straight line and didn't feel skatey at all, but you could tell the front wasn't planted. I got a bit of that this weekend as well, so the splitter might be added to the list of winter projects.

Gee, I almost never use my visor but I have ridden in a few cars without windshields over the years (Ariel Atom jumps to mind). I figure it's worth having, but yeah, it's pointless 99% of the time.

Looking Great out there and I'm seriously jealous of that power! It's really cool to find out you were an inspiration too! All Excellent Stuff. :D

Regarding visors I'm old and conservative so it's always visor down when I pull on to the track. The folks working grid and/or race control have been known to enforce it if we don't visor-down on the way out too. Reportedly there can be lots of things you don't want in your eyes flying around if/when you wreck. Plus I like the reduction in glare. It's usually waaay too bright out here in the undocumented 8th circle of Hell...

I'll probably try to keep the visor down for the track day next weekend, good point. Which brings me to activities of the past couple days.

I needed to swap out to my track pads. These things have been sitting for a good while now, but I figure they don't really expire. I grabbed some ATE TYP 200 as a budget track fluid. I think I grabbed regular DOT 4 last time but I figured I should get something a bit higher temp since the car actually makes power now. Pads are the "track day" pads from Rock Auto, I want to say PowerStop brand.

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...b62b0b41fc.jpg


Safe to say I think the Hawks were done. I knew they were getting a bit long in the tooth and I'm assuming that's where my reverse screech has been coming from. I thought the hubs/bearings fixed that, but it did come back. I think the track pads will stay on until I figure out a new street/autocross setup. At that point we'll get some fresh rotors and pads on the car and have proper brakes for once. I did see some pretty uneven pad wear on some corners. I'm guessing that has to do with the brakes not being bled quite properly, but if someone has more info on the subject chime in.


https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...c829f77d84.jpg
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...25a219d1d5.jpg


So after all of that I took the car out to do some bedding in. It doesn't seem like that's as necessary (or necessary at all) on rotors that already have friction material embedded in them, but I figured it wouldn't hurt. I went out to one of the long industrial roads in the area and did ~10 stops from about 50 MPH down to 5 and a couple from higher speeds. I think I'm going to need to go back and rebleed a couple of the calipers because the drivers front was pretty eager to lock up.

Naturally while I was out I wanted to get a couple more datalogs to try and actually crack 300 whp on virtual dyno. I keep hitting 290 but I crave the 3. The past couple times I've driven the car it's smelled like burning oil pretty badly. I thought it was the valve cover gasket finally giving out, as it seeps a decent amount these days. There was also a bunch of oil that was on the breather/catch can hose when I blew the intercooler coupler off, but I couldn't quite figure out if where or why that had leaked out.


https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...bff162c7df.jpg


Yeah, that would probably do it. Kinda hard to see in the photo, but the hose right off the breather had split so instead of going to the catch can all my blowby was dripping onto the exhaust manifold. This hose has been here for a while and I recently had a similar split/crack which I fixed by cutting the hose. I'm guessing the heat from the exahust manifold is drying out the hose and leading to the failure. I think this section of the hose was likely a bit brittle as well and the boost coupler flew up and caused it to split when I was at autocross last weekend.

I flipped the hose around so the cracked part is in the catch can now and added some heat sheath to the part over the manifold to hopefully keep it supple.

I also figured I could finally add an oil temp sensor via a 1/8 NPT adapter in the oil drain plug. Well that would've worked if the stupid drain plug->1/8 NPT adapter didn't taper down to a tiny hole that prevents the sensor from going through...
We'll see if I decide to try and make that one happen. The wire from the ECU is already in the engine bay, I just need to get some plugs crimped and a ground signal.

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...8dce0160db.jpg


I'll hopefully be wrapping up most of the lingering items this weekend. I was supposed to be out of town but plans were cancelled, so now I've got a lot more time to fine tune things. I still topped out on VD around 290 WHP. I've got the boost controller running almost 80 duty cycle up top to hold 220 KPA. At this point I'm thinking it needs additional timing. I've got a good number of logs to compare against, so I figure I'll add 2 degrees and see if she picks up some power. 220 KPA on E85 with a 2860 seems like it should be cake to hit 300, so if a bit of timing doesn't do it I'll probably be looking to do a boost leak test (and should probably do that regardless).

Keep us posted where you end up timing wise. I think mine could use a bit more. We dyno tuned it to where we were getting diminishing returns adding timing, but at the time I had a flex sensor issue where the sensor would read lower eth content after a long pull and that was likely pulling the added timing. My tuner at the time didn't catch that, nor did I, but we've since fixed it and I've not gotten back on a dyno. Maybe before next season I will though!

This is where I'm at right now for E85. Technically we get closer to E75 at the pump I'm going to, so I scale up to E75. I'm running very slightly less timing since I'm at about E70 right now (70/75 means blending down ~6% I believe).

I found another thread where Andy Floyd said he was running "20* timing at the top 15* in the middle" at 22 PSI, which I'm guessing would be about 250 KPA or so. He's on lower compression pistons, but I think it's at least worth bumping up my 220 KPA row a degree or two and/or bumping my 240 KPA row so it doesn't drop off quite as sharply. Pretty sure I did that earlier when I put the turbo on to have it be a bit safer if the boost controller spiked.

Watterson is only running around 2 degrees less at peak torque around 230 KPA and he's on 93 octane (granted its also a different turbo and again, lower compression pistons).

All that to say, I think there's still power to be gained through timing. I'm hoping that someone in our local club get a dyno rented for a day so we can share it and I can finally dial the tune in. For now I think virtual dyno and the knock sensor will give me some indication.

ETA - I also think its weird that I am having to run so much duty cycle on the boost controller compared to where you seem to be at. I think I could put the boost duty cycle to 100 all across and struggle to hit 240 KPA.

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...228830e3cc.png

Did quite a bit of driving this weekend. Overall I'm feeling pretty good for the upcoming weekend. There are a couple things I'm not 100% confident in, but overall I think the car's doing pretty well. With the fix to the catch can hose the car doesn't smell like burning oil every time I get into boost, so that's a big positive. Brakes feel good. I could probably rebleed a couple of the calipers, but I think it'll work as is. I don't think I'll do the rear hubs/bearings before next weekend just because I'm pretty busy and getting the truck/trailer figured out alongside the rest of the trackday prep is going to put enough on my plate as is. Thankfully we have a crew of ~5 of us going out so I won't be all on my own. Nothing like a track day with 2 national champion autocrossers (one in an NA and on in and ND). Those cars won't be at the track day, but it'll be fun to lap with some real drivers.

Bro, did you know I like virtual dyno?

Did a good number of pulls but I'm not sure how useful they were. I noticed a trend across a couple runs where the power level dipped. I'm not sure how much weight to give this, but these were all done on different - relatively flat - roads. Made me think that 5K and 6K+ needed some additional timing. I also did get what I'd consider a "good' pull, aside from a bump in the road while the car was ramping up.
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...ed30c19d96.jpg

This is the graph of what I'd consider a pretty good log.

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...437a5f8590.jpg



Still seeing torque drop off around 5500 which I read as the car wanting more timing.

Went out with a slightly modified map tonight and did some more pulls. I also did a cruise just because it was a nice day but I think something in the Link software glitched and didn't log the drive to the ECU. Not a huge deal but there were a couple things I wanted to look at.

So, the low boost (~180 KPA) table seems to be dialed in pretty well. This is what I plan to run at ORP. I think the VD charts are smoother/more accurate because the car simply pulls through the gear slower. Regardless, I'm liking how this is looking (fuel on both boost levels still needs some fine tuning).
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...65c0843028.jpg

And for anyone interested this is the boost control table I'm running for that boost level.
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...3ddf38810a.png


I'm still seeing a bit of a torque dip after 5500 at high boost, so I added a bit more of a timing ramp from 5500 to redline and will try that out later this week. Doesn't really matter since I don't plan on running high boost for ORP aside from maybe a lap or two (that's a lie I'm sure), but I would like to keep the line a bit flatter.

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...fdad440ec2.jpg



Smoothing is cranked up a bit more on these, but I felt like these were reasonably good logs. Nothing super crazy as far as torque/hp spikes. I did change the weight on some of the pulls due to the car having a full tank of gas, tools in the trunk, etc...

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...163cf579b6.jpg



So not a crazy pickup from the timing. Honestly I don't think I'm going to make much progress without getting the car on an actual dyno. A couple guys I race with have floated the idea of renting a local dyno for a day and sharing it, so I'll be doing that if it actually happens.

Again, for those who are interested (in other words, PSR2860 gang), this is the boost control table I'm running for 220 KPA. IE, basically maxed duty cycle.
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...6a0fbd5704.png

A rough comparison against the compressor map with my very limited knowledge makes me think the turbo's actually pretty happy/efficient here. 300 WHP at ~2.44 pressure ratio seems pretty good.

Here's my rough estimation of where I was at on the 2560R making about 265 WHP.
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...5df398e776.jpg





And on the 2860





https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...558243ed82.jpg






I realize its more complicated than that, but from my current understanding I basically think this new turbo is way happier even with a basically maxed out boost controller.

Also, for certain people, here is the timing map I've come up with after looking at those logs and adding a bit of timing up top. I haven't run this yet but will get it into the ECU tomorrow and try it out. I'm reading about E70 currently and haven't picked up much knock activity. I did see some knock events today but they seemed to mostly be during transient throttle and were just barely enough to register knock. Basically, I'm not worrying about it because I still don't think my knock settings are that great/precise. I'd rather have the ECU pull some timing unnecessarily than the opposite.


https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...906871609d.png