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You don't have a 160kpa spark cut boost limit set up do you? If not what plugs are you running again? I know they are gapped .030 which should be fine.
BKR7E plugs. I just verified that the plug wires are connected well and the IC is connected well. I'll have to look at the spark cut later since I don't have TS on this laptop.
So, I'm gonna take the easy route and purchase the below...
Anyone need a fancy 949 CNC Ported Head? I'm not gonna use the valvetrain, clutch, flywheel, reroute, and I'm debating on whether or not to keep the oil cooler lines. If anyone is interested in any of these parts, let me know. They'll be posted soon regardless.
For sale is a freshly built, never started 2000 (NB) engine set up for a turbo- or supercharger. This was in my Exocet project. Egine is complete, assembled and ready to go; just add oil, water and your intake. The build:
Long block assembled by RP Performance (Summit Point Spec Miata specialist) with balanced crank,
all new new internals: main bearings, ARP studs (mains and head), seals, gaskets, harmonic damper, crank and cam angle sensors.
Manley forged rods - Manley Forged Connecting Rods Miata
Supertech 9.0:1 pistons, 949 racing ring package - Supertech Pistons Miata
Boundary Engineering oil pump - Mazda\Ford BP Assembled Oil Pump W/Billet Gears ? Boundary
949 Racing cast impeller water pump - New Water Pump Miata
949 Racing Supermiata lightweight flywheel - Miata Flywheel BP
949 Racing Sport clutch - SuperMiata Sport Clutch Kit Miata BP
949 Racing coolant reroute with custom silicone/aluminum line - Miata Coolant Reroute System
949 racing CNC ported head -$3,000 new with new supertech valves, dual valve springs, three angle valve job. NB cam, valve lash set. - SuperMiata CNC Miata Bare Head - (they only sell the bare head nowadays)
includes alternator.
Gates belt, new tensioners, gaskets, plugs and the rest. Even has a new dipstick. Mocal oil thermostat, -10 AN oil lines for an oil cooler. M21 fittings to plug into any Setrab oil cooler.
Engine comes on a rolling engine stand.
$5,000/obo
No trades please.
I now own the engine in the previous post and have sold a few things from there to recoup some funds. The CNC BP4W head is still available (shameless reference: https://www.miataturbo.net/miata-par...nc-head-94833/). To commemorate my build thread update, I'm lowering the price to $2500 shipped to CONUS residents.
So, back to the engine with the rod knock. There was a slight issue of leaving blast media residue in the intake manifold. I did call the company that did this for me to let them know that they should clean these much better (or at all) before providing back to the customer, or to let them know to tell that customer that it's necessary to clean them. Obviously, I found all of the warnings around MiataTurbo after this happened to me... (for more about this, see my build thread title again!)
I'm not sure how this blast media issue ended up with a rod knocking, but my theory is that a cylinder flooded and it hydrolocked? No clue, doens't really matter now.
I'm reusing the VVT head so I brought it to the machine shop to get it cleaned up. I ended up with a three angle valve job and everything re-assembled to spec.
Got a Qmax reroute
Swapping the non-VVT oil pump for a VVT BE pump. I hated to have to do this, but it gave me a chance to put my 01-05 oil pan on which has the Main Bearing Support Plate and is already drilled for the oil return.
Redid the intake manifold. There was a communication issue between the powdercoater and me. I thought he'd clean the entire thing out before coating it... I'm still cleaning it out. I'll be super sure this is as clean as possible before it goes back on.
Worked on some visual mods. Sanded down the lights to remove the raised lettering and added an LED ring to the NA taillights for running lights. You'll want to crack the taillights open and wire the LEDs to the wire that feeds your running light.
It's very subtle - I doubt most Miata owners would even notice it.
Built headliner with a friend and Psyber_0ptix. I found the side trim panels about a year ago on a Facebook group. I had never seen them before and have never seen any for sale. I paid $75 shipped for them, which I think is insane for the rarity of them.
And, here is why progress has been so slow. I'm really enjoying the NC. It's a great car if you give it a chance. The white one in front is mine.
We replaced the leaky copper crush washers on the vvt hardline, cranked the hell out of the banjo bolt to stop it from leaking. We had previously made a pre-oiler so it would pressurize the system with oil testing for leaks.
Tried to assess the non start condition. Cam signal was working but there was no crank. We jumped the crank sensor to the cam plug and confirmed the crank sensor was functioning. Ultimately the problem was a bum solder joint on the signal wire. He was missing a grommet for the crank plug and we suspected it wasn't making good connection despite trying to zip tie it shut. We depinned it and nested the harness side pins into the crank sensor plug and it tried to turn over. We then just straight bypassed the plug all together and it works fine.
Other things we did:
We ate chick fil a.
We connected a brand new speedo cable to the speed sensor
Reinstalled all the plumbing and intake manifold
Fixed a busted terminal to the oil pressure sender
Pumped in fresh trans fluid
Changed the clutch master cylinder and bled the clutch
We started it on Vlad base map and got it to idle and confirmed timing whilst topping off coolant.
We then tried to take it out to get broken in, can Rev up to 4k but then experience some funny misfires. We benched it for a non rainy day but at least the car is running and all leaks seem to be mitigated so far.
Last edited by psyber_0ptix; 06-23-2018 at 11:36 PM.
I really appreciate the help/motivation to get this moving forward. I would have struggled through a lot of what we got accomplished today without your help. It was nice to drive again even if it only lasted a few minutes.
I need to get logs off to 18psi tomorrow for his review.
I just had an electrical issue with the VVT oil control valve that resulted in zero VVT movement. Check for basics like power & ground and check resistance across pins on the ocv. Spec is 6.9-7.9 ohms. You can also pull it out to see if it's physically moving when your vvt target changes and you can inspect the filter up there for clogging.
I don't have composite logs since we corrected the wiring and it started up just fine.
It's a 36-2 Supermiata damper. It's on the correct setting in Ms and base timing was spot on and required no adjustment. It's idling and driving fine until 4k when sync loss count manifests. Loss reason 2 which is why we are looking into a new sensor and will check valve cover bolts.
Apparently this issue was also present on the previous motor before it banana rodded. I'm thinking it's a wiring/ms problem.
The previous owner did some strange things with this car and direct wired the cars harness to the db37, makes in a pain in the *** to troubleshoot wiring since there is no space to modify the db37 under the air filter in cabin. The fuel pump always stays on when keyed onto ACC. It never shuts down which can be dangerous for various reasons.
I also recommended maybe having the unit checked on Brains stim.
I just had an electrical issue with the VVT oil control valve that resulted in zero VVT movement. Check for basics like power & ground and check resistance across pins on the ocv. Spec is 6.9-7.9 ohms. You can also pull it out to see if it's physically moving when your vvt target changes and you can inspect the filter up there for clogging.
I think I can scrounge up another solenoid or two to test out. Reworking the power and the ground back to ms3 should be pretty painless. Thanks for the resistance values, @Shibby might be able to check this on his own with a multimeter.
04-18-2017, 02:42 PM
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