Sixshooter's Slow Torture™ Build Thread
06-24-2014, 04:52 PM
#361
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EDIT: And our street hero, Pdexta, is naturally aspirated, boohoohoo!
Last edited by sixshooter; 06-24-2014 at 05:02 PM.
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06-25-2014, 05:05 PM
#362
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Awesome build thread. I noticed you're using FM sways (unless I missed something). Is there any particular reason why you went with that setup over the Racing Beat bar? I've been researching sways and people seem to favor the RB, but it doesn't seem like those people spend as much time on the track as you.
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06-27-2014, 07:27 AM
#363
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I am using the FM sways. I got them because they were for sale used locally. They are adjustable with two mounting holes in the front and three in the rear, which is nice for fine tuning the car's balance. The RBs are also adjustable.
Because the FM rear bar is a little thicker than others, you use a slightly softer rear coils or stronger fronts to achieve the same cornering balance, since the coils and sways are a system that works together. If the front to rear relationship is off the car will either be prone to plow or spin. My car is balanced with two people and a full tank but a little tail happy with just me and less than half a tank. I need to change from my 550/350 springs to 600/350 (more strength in front) or 550/325 (less strength in rear) for best balance to compensate when the rear of the car is light. It is all about balance. If I had a stronger front bar or weaker rear bar it would also accomplish the same shift in balance (the front is in the full stiff position and the rear is currently in the full soft position as I have it balanced for now).
TL;DR
You can use any sway bar combination you want but you need to scale your coil springs to give you the proper balance for whatever you use.
I like the ISC Racing sway bar and mounts for all out baller status. It puts the RB and FM bars on the nightshift.
Because the FM rear bar is a little thicker than others, you use a slightly softer rear coils or stronger fronts to achieve the same cornering balance, since the coils and sways are a system that works together. If the front to rear relationship is off the car will either be prone to plow or spin. My car is balanced with two people and a full tank but a little tail happy with just me and less than half a tank. I need to change from my 550/350 springs to 600/350 (more strength in front) or 550/325 (less strength in rear) for best balance to compensate when the rear of the car is light. It is all about balance. If I had a stronger front bar or weaker rear bar it would also accomplish the same shift in balance (the front is in the full stiff position and the rear is currently in the full soft position as I have it balanced for now).
TL;DR
You can use any sway bar combination you want but you need to scale your coil springs to give you the proper balance for whatever you use.
I like the ISC Racing sway bar and mounts for all out baller status. It puts the RB and FM bars on the nightshift.
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06-30-2014, 11:47 AM
#365
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I smoked the standard Wilwood BP10 pads in about half a weekend. I'm getting the Cobalt XR2 pads in for them now.
I am also upgrading to ARP lug studs because of their extended length and increased strength. And I'll be repacking the wheel bearings while it's apart.
I am also upgrading to ARP lug studs because of their extended length and increased strength. And I'll be repacking the wheel bearings while it's apart.
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07-12-2014, 08:27 PM
#369
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I measured and measured again then used masking tape to make guide lines. I used a cut off wheel and a big air compressor. I trimmed a small plastic riser off the trailing edge of the bottom side so it would lay flat back there, but the front and sides hook in securely. I then used adhesive to hold the mating edges flush on the sides and rear.
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07-13-2014, 12:32 PM
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Very nice, not goofy looking like the Mini vent but not ginormous like the GT500 vent. Do you plan on keeping the mesh in there?
In for quantifiable results! I mean, I assume you will have before and after data?
In for quantifiable results! I mean, I assume you will have before and after data?
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07-13-2014, 01:14 PM
#374
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Yes, the paint was rubbed by the previous owner's car bra. And the clearcoat is junk.
I'm keeping the mesh because we have an oak tree problem and usually harvest 50 large bags of leaves each autumn. It's hell keeping them out of the back corners of the front fenders.
I'm keeping the mesh because we have an oak tree problem and usually harvest 50 large bags of leaves each autumn. It's hell keeping them out of the back corners of the front fenders.
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09-04-2014, 01:25 AM
#378
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Steve, how floppy do thoes cutouts make The hood.Do you still like them as much as you did before the install. Would you use same ones again?...Sorry , got to know have a set in the floor. Did they help keep temperatures down? Thanks for letting a newb ask a thousand questions
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09-04-2014, 07:48 AM
#379
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I could not perceive and difference in the strength of the hood at all. The hood was 3 layers thick in many of the places I cut and there is way too much structure in the hood from the factory. I contemplated removing more structure just for weight because it is overkill.
Air certainly moves through the ducts, that's for sure, but I have done no empirical testing. Track days are miserable in the middle of the summer here and are, frankly, too tough on me to be fun. My next outing will be at Sebring on the first weekend in October and we'll see then. It is still really hot here then.
Air certainly moves through the ducts, that's for sure, but I have done no empirical testing. Track days are miserable in the middle of the summer here and are, frankly, too tough on me to be fun. My next outing will be at Sebring on the first weekend in October and we'll see then. It is still really hot here then.
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