I don't recall seeing them in my Club Sport.
Then again, mine came with a roll bar installed by one of the two previous owners, which would probably interfere with that trim piece.

I can find it in parts diagrams but can't find an actual part number for it yet.

12 in this diagram:

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...9361204afa.png

And then again in this one

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...6aed715078.jpg

Part numbers appear to be ND30-R1-83X and ND30-R1-83Y.

It Begins.

OEM parts all being stashed away so it can be restored later. OEM VIN long block will be rebuilt with all OEM parts.

Meanwhile, in goes all the cool guy bits we have laying around to prep for Roadster Cup Street class TT

NB2 NASA points motor, fully forged
Square top
JDM throttle body mass damper
CSF 41mm radiator
Supermiata B6 Sport Clutch
Supermiata B6 light flywheel
AZ-6 6 speed
4.77 OS Giken with Supermiata tune
ESM spherical bearings in control arms
Xida 900/500
Supermiata billet coaxial mounts
Racing Beat 54103 front sway bar
Supermiata 14mm adjustable rear sway bar
Supermiata end links
JDM ECU (7500rpm redline)
Hard Dog Sport roll bar
15x9 6UL
225/45/15 Rival-S 1.5
G-Loc R18 front, G10 rear pads
Racing Beat 56008 header
Racing Beat resonated midpipe and muffler
Mazda Motorsports engine mounts
Supermiata Extended Lower Ball Joints

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...566275d202.jpg
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...6b3e3599c1.jpg

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...2acfd09500.jpg

For a minute I thought you had some super trick rotisserie that connected to the jack points. Then I realized the picture was sideways :(

Wow that chassis is clean....

​​​​​​​#CALICAR

Ugh, so unfair...

Do you guys even know what it's like to get a rusty bolt out?

I'm from Ohio.

You should have heard the jeers when my racecar arrived off the transporter. They still poke fun(and holes though the rust) everytime it is on the lift.

New England here...

Now I know why savington can swap diffs in an hour... No rusty bolts to fight!

Anymore details on the ESM sphericals? I can't recall having seen anything on those before.

You know about as much as we do. We will have more info once we get them installed. If we like them we will add them to our website. They are not legal in supermiata S1 or S2 so they have just been hanging around waiting for a build to go into.

Bar for hopefully not rolling. Weight weenie version.
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...2d84f7b129.jpg

AFPR, home brewed. We'll try to run E85 if we can get it to sorta idle and run part throttle. Then the JDM ECU which has better VVT tables and 7500rev limit. Then we'll try E85. Then we'll try cams.
Kinda stupid but if we can get it to work, we think it can make about 170whp on a stock ECU. Rules are kinda open but require a stock ECU and no piggy backs so we're gaming it as usual.

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...040d6ecd6e.jpg

FTFY. I see nothing here I've haven't seen on any of the NW Miatas I work on. I'm assuming if it was a coast only car it'd have a bit of corrosion or rust, but otherwise (in case anyone wants to buy a car out here), I'd put Oregon/Washington cars just as high as California cars. Although our wetter climates hit the soft tops/interiors worse, that's for sure.

Refreshing the running gear. New hubs, flanges. Swapping in a 4.875 OS Giken with Supermiata tune. 800/500 Xidas with NB mounts. Why no BCM? Everyone in the shop wants this car to look as stock as possible so no shiny orange bits where we can avoid it.

ELBJ's. New upper ball joints. This car does not have ABS but the half shafts were cheaper so why not. Original half shafts both had a slight split in the outer boot.
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...1c8ae4de3b.jpg
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...fe7db99ec5.jpg

Do you guys regularly pair a 6 speed with a 4.78? Sounds rowdy

We have in the past for higher revving cars on courses with low terminal speeds. If peak speed is only say 118mph, then there is no reason to gear a car to go 140mph. The shorter its geared, the closer the ratios, the more time it spends near peak power, the more you win.

Snoopy is running a 5 speed. But with a PT points motor on E85, has a very flat powerband. So the 4.875 means you only use 3-4-5, which are all close together. Very nice gearing. If running cams where torque drops off below 5k, then a 6 spd makes more sense.

Also, the ESM Racing spherical bearing suspension kit we planed to install was woefully mispacked. Missing several pieces and lacked any method to accommodate control arms a few thousandths out of spec. So we set that aside and put Energy urethanes in. That was actually cheaper and less work than extracting all the ESM kit and pressing in new rubber bushings.

Which rear hub brand do you recommend? Or is that OEM Mazda in your above refresh photos?

Thanks

We are using Dorman rear hub flanges, Timken bearings. Fronts are Moog.

Stellar. Really tidy work so far.