Something about GLTC/ST5/TT5
 

I have no idea where to start......

I've got this 99 sport, long line of auto-x pedigree. It also happens to be THE most nationally winning NB...... in STR :giggle:

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1425087931

I've ran as the underdog for several years now, it was a lot of fun and don't regret it at all. Though, it is time to move the car on from that and onto track dayz, bro. Even though it can still be pretty....

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1425087931

Cookie-cutter mod list:
Mod-list:
99 Sport
Xida-S 700/400
15x9 6ULs/15x9 S1s/15x8 flat-outs
RB 1.25" front-sway, 14mm rear, 949 end-links
ES poly bushings motor mounts, diff, and control-arms
XP8 front / AX6 rear
Custom "cold-air" intake
RB header
Custom exhaust, high-flow cat, Borla resonator
DPtune ecu "reflash"
Harddog hardcore rollbar
Sparco pro2000, schroth 6-point



I've dreamed about getting out on the track for many years now. Finally got onto the track in my dad's 91(similar cookie-cutter build) last year, and as expected, hooked. Making this pipe-dream I've had a reality. So I have full intentions of running the car in TTE in the south-east. It usually seems like a decent field and I know a few guys that run as well.


I am currently shopping for a radiator, clutch/fly-wheel, and a steering wheel/QR/hub. RS3s on pre-order for street/practice tires and I've got an awesome local source for glently used SM7s. I figure I'll post up my thoughts on these parts I'm wanting to buy so you guize can help me mull over the decision with me.

Why DPtune and not Megasquirt.

Previous owner did it. I had plans of putting a ms2 in the stock box to fit STR rules. Now I think I'll adjust the points around for TTE and run a ms3.

Really nice car. Seems like you have enough mods that it will be tough to stay in TTE.

Random thoughts:

1. Probably need to step up to XP10/XP8 at least.

2. BBKs are a waste of TT points for a normally aspirated car, but the reduced pad changes from a front BBK are nice.

3. With an AC delete, reroute, and air guide/undertray in good condition, you'll find the stock-size radiator gives plenty of cooling. If you want all-aluminum for durability, then stay small to save weight/bulk.

4. Increased power adds heat to your water (combustion inefficiency). Increased RPM adds heat to your oil (friction). You should consider an oil cooler.

5. Hardtop? I've been eyeballing the TCM lightweight unit.

6. I've got the NRG 2.5 QR. Love it.

7. You may have some relearning to do on driving style. I've noticed that heavy auto-X types (including podium guys from Lincoln) are willing to throw away a lot of momentum for weight transfer. That really bogs them down on track. Focus on that and use data!

Hardtop definitely.

Data!

A great way to get faster on track, after you are comfortable and driving reasonably hard, is to have someone who is fast drive the car, and compare their data to yours.

I actually picked up a hardtop a few weeks ago. It's plastidipped an ugly sparkling brown, so I'm going to vinyl wrap it black. I'll also pull the soft top.

I plan on moving up to xp10s once the XP8s wear out. I've actually had issues with the ax6s eating rotors before the pad is gone, I get cheap Napa blanks so it's not a big issue. No plans of a bbk.

Right now, with 205 SM7s I'm at 17points, add another point for 205 R7s. I've pondered on using stock sways with 1000/500 springs. Then I would have 3 points for a ms3.

Thanks for tips!

That's funny. Thought that SM7 and R7 were actually the same tire, but SM7 is less points? Or maybe they were only the same tire last generation?

I think you've already consumed your ECU points with the reflash anyway, unless you were planning to find an unmolested OEM ECU.

I was also surprised with the points difference. I still haven't read confirmation that the R7 is faster than the SM7.

I do have a spare, unmolested, stock ecu that I will run once I compete. The PO said dptune didn't really add much power, it's more for the extra rpm to be able to stay in 2nd gear on course lol.

Today I'm working on fitting the sparco into the car. The sparco brackets on the right side need about 1/4" of space, which a bfh can easily fix. Right now I'm curious if there shoulder bolsters will fit with the stock door panels. Attachment 233972

Thinking about this bar and seat combo. Want to make sure I'll fit under the bar if I mount seat to floor. Do you have the hard top version of the bar (1.25" lower but 3" back) or the soft top only version? How tall are you? I'm 6'.

I got the hard-top version of the bar. I'm 5 11" but I haven't done any driving with it yet :rofl:

My Schroth harness I ordered was on back-order for several weeks, finally came in last Thursday. I'll be drilling holes in the floor soon enough!

Weren't you in Tennessee?

I think we should meet up at Road Atlanta sometime. I'll be in contact when my life normalizes.

Less posting, more HPDE winning.

We'll have to swap cars at MATG. Sound fun? Thought so.

Yes, I moved to SC about 2 years ago. I'll be at the RA event with NASA in June. Come say hey if you find me first.

I LOVE going 10/10ths in other people's cars!! :giggle:

Actually I just did the champ tour at Dixie last weekend. I was driving a buddy's GT500 ESP car in SM. 550+rwhp, 335s squared, Strano adjusted.... holy shat. I've driven the car a few times, but it never gets old.
Attachment 233971

10/10ths is for pussies. I go 11/10ths 110% of the time.

Did a burnout in my piece of shit last night. Is your car even fast enough to spin the tires?

Bro, trusty rusty red could do a mean burnout with it's 95rwhp of fury!

Attachment 233970


Oh! I finally ordered a radiator, Koyo 36mm hyper V-core. Mainly because it's the same weight as stock and that fits CSP rules..... yeah I might run the car in CSP :jerkit:

The seat is WAY too close with my current bracket setup:
Attachment 233969

Going to pickup sparco sliders from a friend this weekend, should solve the problem here. I had to "massage" the trans tunnel a little bit to get the bracket to bolt all the way down. Hoping the sliders won't raise the seat too much, the lower the seat is the better.

It is time to radiate! Koyo's newer hyper v-core 36mm

Attachment 233968

Should be the same weight as stock, cool like a 55mm, and skinny enough so I won't have any clearance issues with my big front bar.

I am considering some slim fans just for the shrouds that come with them. I autox'd a turbo 99 on Sunday and the owner noted how much his slim fans from FM improved his running temps on the interstate dropped after installing them. Something like that is basically the same cost of this radiator, so my temps will basically need to be failing for me to consider that :rofl:

FWIW, my experiences with the FM Stage 1 airflow kit mirror that person's. That's what i had on the MSM.

I have the same year PRO2000's in my car (well 1 of 2 of them). Let me know what you find out bracket wise for how low the seat sits. I was considering just making my own brackets in a fixed position as I sit as far back as I can anyways. Currently my head is just slightly below my roll bar when I am in it. Here is a pic from this weekend of the current setup. Although I am painting my HardDog bar now and putting in new harnesses this week.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1427208436

Alrighty, I'll be test fitting the seat with the slider this week. I really hope it only raises it 1/2" or less.