sonofthehill

iTrader: (1)

Wow, so like instant venison sausage.

Thanks guys, I feel pretty lucky basically my car got to pet Bambi, all she left was a little fur on my bumper. I think it got confused, looking for more unicorn sperm. It's a SF car, it's confused.

That sucker also had AWD and some skinny *** tires, but almost broke her **** right there.

sonofthehill

iTrader: (1)

Special thanks to Bronson M, for sacrificing his WG actuator, and the nice post about it.

I now actually have a functional 2 port WG actuator... Instead of one that just doesn't leak when I try to divert pressure to the 2nd port.
I might as well have been using a 3 port solenoid.

I added the rubber seal with the bolt holes and a pin ***** for the shaft. I also added the grommet and the threads on the shaft, obviously after cutting the piston off. Then the washer and nut.


Lubed up the shaft and crimped the edge back up. Holds 40psi both sides no problem but I used my old shaft seal which sits between the actuator and bracket.

EO2K

iTrader: (37)

Dude, that is win When does it get installed?

sonofthehill

iTrader: (1)

Thanks G! I put it on last night and hit overboost at 6600 rpm, 19.5psi this morning with only 33% boost duty. I usually have to max it out up there just to get 18 or 19 #'s. No more additional springs needed, although my closed loop EBC is screwed again. Once I get closed loop set I am hoping I will be more consistent at the drag strip. Because I hopefully won't be maxing out the solenoid ever anymore.

Thought I might be seeping a little oil from my feed line last night, but I cleaned it up and it didn't come back today. I think I must have gotten a little oil in/on the fire sleeve last time I had it apart. None the less, I am monitoring it closely and I will try to have a local hydraulic shop make a spare tomorrow morning, just in case.

EO2K

iTrader: (37)

Also, it looks like I owe you some beer

18psi

iTrader: (76)

lol he just keeps feeding it more boost and it just keeps taking it. stock block. pump gas. this thing is just hilarious

sonofthehill

iTrader: (1)

Just bring a 6 pack to share at moargasm, we can all cheers over my car if it still survives. Glad you were able to pick up the hood.

My dumb *** actually ran 20.5psi when I had the 8 gallons of 100 octane in my tank, 17.5° too.

sonofthehill

iTrader: (1)

I really wish someone would set up an e85 pump around here somewhere. I would get ID's immediately.

ridethecliche

iTrader: (2)

SpartanSV

That's an important step when beating on a bottom end as hard as you are.

This thread is full of win. Please continue the awesome.

sonofthehill

iTrader: (1)

Now... Remember kids, don't try this at home!

We're good at lubing the shaft around here

We certainly don't need ID's with no e85 around here.

shuiend

iTrader: (24)

You need slicks before you need ID's and E85. Hell yeah I would upgrade to a MS3X and get 2 wheels speed sensors installed for traction control, before I went to E85 and ID's.

sonofthehill

iTrader: (1)

You're right, truth is I need a lot of things.

18psi

iTrader: (76)

you NEED to pop wheelies on the street. this isn't about want, this is just bare essentials here

shuiend

iTrader: (24)

He needs to to be living his life 10 seconds at a time. I think that will require wheelies, E85, and traction control.

DNMakinson

iTrader: (3)

What governs how much timing to pull to meet traction needs? I don't see any curves for this. Does MS simply keep pulling timing until the Slip Threshold is reached?

Also, I think I have my launch control set to the point that I get no perceptible wheel slip on the street with TW200 tires. Seems like that would do almost as well as T/C for a drag set-up that only spins on launch. My Noob issue is that I get so excite when it works that I forget to make the 1-2 shift. Need Moar Practice.

But alas, this is MS3X.

18psi

iTrader: (76)

There's a certain point at which pulling timing could cause damage. So you gotta pull boost too. Most take the easy approach and just add traction.
Though I have dabbled with both those things in the MSM, and it did seem to work effectively, it still wasn't perfect.
There is not many on this whole forum that have effectively implemented TC/BBG/BBS. It's not as simple as it sounds.

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

You start with timing retard, then probably spark cut. You don't want to pull boost if you don't have too, takes too long to build back up.


Goals.

DNMakinson

iTrader: (3)

I didn't like Boost By Gear. I'm using the after-launch Timing vs time curve and Boost vs time curve to tame 1st gear. Both time out approximately at the end of 1st gear. But yeah, I have that question on how much timing is safe to pull. Searched but could not find anything. I think I'm pulling a maximum of 8 degrees. None of that going ATDC stuff to eat my turbine.

My goal was to get this set up and working with the 195mm tires on pavement. If that works, then with the 225's and a sticky track, I figure I can dial up from that.

Still playing with what "% Boost" means. I think it means the % difference between 100kPa and the target boost at that point in time (EBC).

Very conservative? 3700RPM Launch Limit. It's kind of interesting that MAP stays at about 115 kPa until I start to let out the clutch. Even still during LC limit, the boost begins to build due to loading. Then when switch is made, boost goes to waste gate (150kPa + creep), but with retarded timing. Then it's time to shift up.

sonofthehill

iTrader: (1)

I mean, let's be serious. Who doesn't need to pop wheelies on the street?

I know that I certainly NEED to be able to pop wheelies in my Miata, essentials dude. Don't know about the rest of you guys. That, along with the rest of my huge laundry list of things I need.