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Soot's autoxer becomes a TT car.
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Currently the goal for this car is to keep it streetable, but run in TTB out at Miller. I'm going to run the car in SSM at local autox evens for shakedown/fun until everything feels nice and sorted and I'm not as worried about it blowing up at the track.
This is a migration of my build thread from CR to get caught up on where the car is night now. Here's the car as I bought it. A '93 base package with 193000 on the clock. Had maintenance records for the last 15 years. Only add-on was a weird aftermarket AC setup from the PO. Was in really clean shape for a Utah car, since we salt like hell here. Attachment 229420 I just kept it to an r package lip and catching up on maintenance at first: Attachment 229421 Attachment 229422 Picked up an aftermaket wheel for a bit more leg clearance: Attachment 229423 Then I went to my first Autocross even and went down the rabbit hole. Attachment 229424 I raced the car for the rest of the season and decided to update my 20+ year old suspension. In the process I found that I'd somehow missed a pretty mangled control arm when I bought the car: Attachment 229425 Picked up some Hard S Bilsteins and coilover sleeves. Attachment 229426 I refreshed the brakes, added stainless lines and full ES poly bushings while I was in there. Attachment 229427 Shot of the old Mazda racing horn button I picked up. Attachment 229428 ET +25 15x7 Jongbloed wheels with 205/50/15 BFG Rivals: Attachment 229429 Yonaka catback: Attachment 229430 Attachment 229431 I made a string box alignment system to dial everything in and then finally got to drive it for a bit. Attachment 229432 Attachment 229433 Attachment 229434 Attachment 229435 Winter came around and even though the car was great to drive in an STS setup, I got the itch to get building again. Before I purchased the car I'd been lurking on Miata turbo for a couple years just learning, but after autocrossing I realized an NA build would be much more suited to my driving. I stumbled across an ad for a set of AE101 ITBs and couldn't help myself. Attachment 229436 Attachment 229437 |
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This build was mostly inspired by Quinn's NB. Here's the current list of mods in place, and planned mods
Suspension/chassis/brakes:
Here's the assembled engine in all of it's poorly lit, cellphone pic, high ISO glory: Attachment 229419 I test fit the ITG filter and it just barely clears my coolant reroute pipe. So far everything is falling into place |
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Between this post and the previous there was a year or so gap, we're getting closer to caught up to current times now.
Goodbye ITBs :cry:. I'm gonna miss that sound. Attachment 229396 This isn't a bad change though... I loved the ITBs, but at the end of the day, this is a 1.6 with over 200K on the bottom end. I knew I'd want more power eventually so I started planning what route I wanted to go so I could start collecting parts. As much as I'd love a K swap above all else, the cost is a bit out of reach. Turbos are fun, but I need something that will be predictable when getting on/off throttle full blast through a slalom, and not want to fall off of the engine. If I were to go turbo I'd want trackspeed ($$) and I'd need a 1.8 too... I eventually settled on a Rotrex. They don't make big power or torque figures, but seem to be reliable, are simple for a forced induction setup and and should run cool. Being predictable and responsive on/off throttle was also a big deciding factor. To make it even better, the whole Rotrex setup will transfer over to a 1.8 with the exact same parts. I was going to save for this long term, but just a week after deciding on this build a local ad came up for a new c30-74 for just over 50% off of retail, and I couldn't resist. Attachment 229397 Attachment 229398 Even though I was initially planning on running a high mount bracket like a Kraftwerks or Track Dog, I saw Moti's low mount setup for creampuff and decided to send him a message. He agreed to make me a copy of his bracket and got it shipped out fast! Attachment 229399 Attachment 229400 Attachment 229401 The bracket is really well made and bolted up perfectly. The mounting points are the same between 1.8 and 1.6. Once the supercharger was mounted I started mapping out my charge piping Attachment 229402 I decided to go with the v mount setup that I saw on Lincoln Logs' car. Attachment 229403 Since my intercooler is going to go where the factory hood latch is, I needed to install some aerocatches. I can't use power tools at my house (communal parking garage) so I packed up the hood and brought it to my buddies driveway. Bonus - I get to hang out with his dog (I got a new phone so photos should be a bit better) Attachment 229404 I did 95% of this with a angle grinder, but a couple of cuts were a bit too small for it. Attachment 229405 Holy crap the radiator support is not straight. It took some bending to get the pins to go in the latches once I made them even on each side of the hood. Attachment 229406 Now that that was taken care of I picked up a couple of engine bits. Flowforce injectors and a 3d printed adapter from hi_im_sean and a Kia TPS. Attachment 229407 Attachment 229408 These injectors idle so nice... Also, they come with the tiniest filters I've ever seen. Attachment 229409 Now that fueling was updated I limped the car to my buddies place where it stayed for a couple days while I wrapped up the install. I mounted the rotrex oil can basically the only spot I could that kept the oil level below the supercharger shaft Attachment 229410 Oil cooler mounted. I think I'm going to redo this a bit though... Attachment 229411 Ghetto CAI to drive back and forth from friend's house for more cutting over the weekend... Attachment 229412 This is all that had to come off for the V mount setup. Pretty minimal cutting. Attachment 229413 I was temporarily interfooling while I picked up some parts. Attachment 229414 Attachment 229415 AAAAAAAAANNNND! BAM! Attachment 229416 Attachment 229417 Attachment 229418 She's up and running! Damn this thing is fun. |
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LRB undertray arrived. Nice piece of kit. I'm going to add a couple of extra panels of thin aluminum and some weather stripping to make all of the ducting as air tight as I can.
Attachment 229387 Attachment 229388 Attachment 229389 Attachment 229390 Attachment 229391 Here's some install process photos from the Singular louvers Attachment 229392 The center template was easy to line up (9.5" from center of front edge of hood), but the sides didn't have measurements listed. If anyone wants to replicate my setup I put the front edge of the 4th & 5th vents (inside edge of the template) 3" from the hood edge where the popup is cut out, and 2.8" from the left and right sides of the hood. Attachment 229393 Cut the top layer first... then cut the backside with some margin to fit the vents. An angle grinder with a cutting wheel is the tool of choice for 90% of the work. I used a flap sanding wheel to clean up the corners and finish the edges a bit better. Attachment 229394 I picked up some large head black rivets off of amazon, and I'm really happy with the way they turned out. Unfortunately the paint they used on white NAs is especially awful. The vinyl template actually peeled paint off of the hood in a couple of places. I'll respray eventually, but this is fine for now while I work out more aero on the car. Attachment 229395 Lookin' mean! When I park the car you can feel heat just pouring out of the vents |
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Two new parts for this update:
A racing beat cat back with resonated midpipe Attachment 229381 Attachment 229382 nice tip, and the sad paint on this car Attachment 229383 To counter balance the nice exhaust, I ordered a stupidly cheap ($180 shipped!) radiator, shroud and fan kit from "Speed Daddy" on Ebay. If it's crap I can replace it with something nicer. That all being said, even if the rest is junk, the shroud looks pretty nice and this should be better than a 100K stock radiator. Attachment 229384 Attachment 229385 Since I'm moving right now, my buddy let me borrow his Dodge 50 (Mitsubishi re-badge). I would love to own a little Japanese truck like this at some point. Attachment 229386 I took a quick clip of an onramp pull (shot with my phone jammed into my harness, so really it's just audio.) There was a guy going 25 around the corner on the onramp, hence my hesitation before I merged around him. https://photos.app.goo.gl/ZU91BO03NnK8uhf52 |
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I've been struggling with troubleshooting rather high AITs under boost (35° ambient, 98° at redline/16PSI after a 3rd gear pull) over the last few days. I tried to tighten up the ducting to force more air through the intercooler, and I wrapped the header (metal intake pipe very close to exhaust, but no change.
I then parked the car outside and let it get dead cold and I was reading 58° in tunerstudio when it was actually 34° outside. Looks like I may have either a calibration issue or a bad sensor. I'd much rather have that than AITs 60°+ over ambient. Here's the wrapped header: Attachment 229379 And installed: Attachment 229380 |
TTB is dead...long live TTB? Maybe TT4 will be a better fit? |
Also, I'm extremely curious how much who you're able to make at the wheels with this set-up. Extremely When is the dyno tune scheduled? |
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Originally Posted by Efini~FC3S
(Post 1470361)
TTB is dead...long live TTB? Maybe TT4 will be a better fit?
Originally Posted by Efini~FC3S
(Post 1470362)
Also, I'm extremely curious how much who you're able to make at the wheels with this set-up. Extremely When is the dyno tune scheduled? The lower power line was my old ITB setup - 264/264 9mm lift cams, 10:9:1 compression, lightly ported head. All I did was pull of the ITBs, bolt on the Rotrex and adjust the cam gears for less overlap. I believe the power drop at the top was due to a misfire from too large of a plug gap as there was a bit of hesitation before the soft limiter should have kicked in. (this has been resolved) Attachment 229378 I'm pretty happy with the power under curve. I'm curious what's been left on the table I could pick up with a dyno tune, but I just moved into a new place with much higher rent and am pretty broke for now. |
Aaaand I just killed my 4th wideband in 3 months. :cry: I'm so frustrated I don't even know what to try at this point.
-Started with an Innovate LC-2, first wired through the MS3 Basic power and ground wires. Setup ran fine for 2 years while the car was NA. Burnt up after SC install, but not surprised because the base map was stupid rich and wouldn't run at all at first. -Sensor died after tune was squared up, so I figured it was just weakened buy running too rich. I installed a new sensor, died after 2-3 days -Rewired LC-2 through a fused relay setup as directed in the LC-2 manual. Sensor lasted <500 miles -Installed a AEM UEGO and it lasted less than 500 miles before the sensor died. It was wired to the wideband power/ground as labeled by Rev in his wiring instructions. It's currently reading full lean after the few seconds of warm up. Sometimes when I shift it will show another reading for a second, but it does not look accurate from what I've seen in my tune. -All of the sensors died after the car was started in the cold (outdoors , instead of in garage) and did not sit running over 2 minutes to warm up. -I have at no point "pre heated" the sensor by turning the wideband on and then starting the car later since this thermally shocks the sensor. -Car runs 13.5:1 AFRs under moderate acceleration, 12:1 at WOT , which should not be rich enough to kill the sensor (as far as I know). -When I shift the AFRs very briefly spike to 10:1, this happens with accel enrich off and does not change if I reduce fueling in the cells I pass through during the shift, so I tuned for smoothness rather than AFRs during shifting. Is this what is killing the sensors? -Every time I have pulled a sensor it has been sooty. The car does burn a tiny bit of oil, but nothing like others I've seen on the forum. I'm really desperate for help here. Has anyone had similar trouble and fixed it? https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...4de8b37e99.gif |
So I've just been ignoring the 02 issue for the last bit (tune is pretty dialed in on open loop even though it's not optimal) and got to just go out and enjoy the car for a bit at our region's first autox. My gopro died so I don't have any video, but a local guy snagged a pretty nice pic of me rolling up to the finish.
Learning to drive a car with more power has been a trip. It's too easy to just floor it and then control the slide, I need to dial back the right foot so I can start driving fast again. To do list after the race:
Long-ish term to-do:
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Living this build, looks like a load of fun. Interesting that you are burning out widebands, something is definitely not right. Are your logs showing overvolting or anything like that? My lc-1 is right before the cat, and I’ve been running it like a decade, even preheating it and I haven’t lost a sensor yet. I get Power from the radio harness, and ground the sensor at the factory location under the TB, and the heater ground is under the dash somewhere. |
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Originally Posted by Stealth97
(Post 1472228)
Living this build, looks like a load of fun. Interesting that you are burning out widebands, something is definitely not right. Are your logs showing overvolting or anything like that? My lc-1 is right before the cat, and I’ve been running it like a decade, even preheating it and I haven’t lost a sensor yet. I get Power from the radio harness, and ground the sensor at the factory location under the TB, and the heater ground is under the dash somewhere. No overvolting in logs. still have no idea what's killing sensors. I really don't want to put a new one in until I figure it out, but I hate running blind/open loop all the time... In the meantime I decided to tackle the alignment. Alignment before last I did myself, and I hated doing it. I went to a shop last time, but it looks like either the alignment slipped (weird that toe didn't slip if so) or they did a crap job. Since I don't trust the shop for now, I decided to try and make this a little easier on myself. I made some 13"x13"x9" wheel blocks so I can get under the car while suspension is loaded. If I were to make these again, I would make them at least 16"x16" or even 18", since they would feel a lot safer. Attachment 229373 Here's the car up on the stands. I have jack stands just under the the car, but barely not touching just in case something fails. The suspension is still carrying 100% of the load. Attachment 229374 I have 12"x12"x1/8" flooring tiles under each wheel, they act as slip plates so you can turn the front wheels to measure caster, and so you don't have to roll/bounce the car to resettle after making camber/toe changes. The other bonus is the tiles work great as shims to level the car. I put a bucket of water in the car, and then siphoned water into a clear plastic tube that was taped along a yardstick. As long as you do not move the bucket you can put the yardstick at the base of each tire and it will show you it's relative height. Just add tiles at each wheel until the car is level (when the water reads at same making on yardstick). I didn't take a photo of this part, but hopefully this pic makes sense if I don't. The water in the tube will be level with the water in the bucket... https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...7a41cfed4e.gif My alignment square is a piece of square aluminum tubing nested in a piece of conduit, one set at each end of the car. The aluminum is drilled for string at the same distances on each bar, and the conduit is tapped for a set screw so I can lock the aluminum bar in place when it is set square around the car. I square it up by making sure each bar is hanging level, and that the distance from the hubs to the string is equal on each side. Front and rear track width is not equal, so you only need to make sure that the FL and FR are the same distance to the hub, and that the RR and RL are the same. Attachment 229375 With this string box you can check track and toe by measuring the distance between the rim and the string at each wheel. you can use a normal digital level for camber and caster, but I picked up a fancy Joe's racing gauge to make caster measurements a bit easier. Attachment 229376 The results: Attachment 229377 Either my subframe, or my front right control arm is bent. 2.75° of camber was my max on that corner so I based the rest of the specs around that. The car actually hooks in second gear now :D. This should also hopefully be a bit easier on tires, and not as understeer prone in steady state turns. |
If there's interest, I can draw up the specs for the tools I made for this and make an actual step by step alignment guide
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Well holy crap it's been 3 years. The car as been crazy reliable for street/autox with the exception of a couple near misses.
- TB shaft snapped but the plate screw was retained. Threw a new TB on and it's been fine since. - I shorted the TPS wiring while replacing the harness for my VTPS (was losing connection intermittently) and it wiped my MS down to bootloader mode. Apparently when in bootloader mode your fuel injectors just stay wide open. I didn't realize what had happened so I tried to start to car. Engines don't like compressing pure gasoline. In a crazy stroke of fate, my upper starter bolt had previously fallen out, so when I tried to crank over the motor the starter gear cocked sideway and jammed into the flywheel, stopping it from cranking before too much damage was done. After fixing the TPS harness, reinstalling the starter, siphoning the gas out of the cylinders and flushing the oil it's back up and running as normal. I'm heading to my first HPDE at the end of the month and I should hopefully finish the day in HPDE 2. I have a buddy that ran his first TT3 event last weekend and is already placing second in his 2GR swapped MR2, so I hope to build up to TT3 quickly and see how I can stack up. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...3d81f61b99.jpg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...e23e133462.jpg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...2b4898d735.jpg |
I love that diy string setup, and Singular 5pc Bronugget Meal owners unite!
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Nice build... love the DiY spirit!
Every time I rule out the Rotrex, someone comes along and posts a successful build... LOL. How's the racing in northern Utah? We've never been to Miller, but want to, and we're considering northern Utah/ southern Idaho as a retirement location.... are there any other local tracks? |
Originally Posted by soot
(Post 1473330)
If there's interest, I can draw up the specs for the tools I made for this and make an actual step by step alignment guide
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Originally Posted by Roda
(Post 1596790)
Nice build... love the DiY spirit!
Every time I rule out the Rotrex, someone comes along and posts a successful build... LOL. How's the racing in northern Utah? We've never been to Miller, but want to, and we're considering northern Utah/ southern Idaho as a retirement location.... are there any other local tracks? Thanks! It's been a learning experience for sure. Rotrex isn't gonna make big power or even be the fastest per HP, but it's just so damn simple and reliable to run. The car just works. I wish I'd done a c30-94 instead and pushed a bit more power just because I know the car would probably run just as well haha. Unfortunately there are no other tracks up here than UMC (Miller). We have a autox club that may be a little small, but we have some real fast guys here in UT. Come heck it out some time if you can and we'll try and show you around. |
So the engine finally let go. 200K miles on a unopened bottom end is not bad. 7 years of 10-20 autox events a year + street driving.
Video/audio of the carnage : https://photos.app.goo.gl/g2F8BR3KpvfVSafYA Purchased a VVT motor and refreshing some things while I'm at it. It'll be getting new bearings and rings + a hone, want to keep things simple. More pics/parts to follow as I find motivation to tear into the car again. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/1q...-no?authuser=0 |
Okay! so the old 1.6 is primed to be pulled and I disassembled the VVT motor so I can get to refreshing it. This is my first bottom end refresh so I'm hoping for some input. Nothing fancy or high dollar here, just trying to snag the low hanging fruit while the block is opened.
Plan is:
Engine will be in a autox/TT car that is occasionally street driven. Hoping for a ~7800RPM limiter for 2nd gear speed but happy to drop that for reliability if that is a tad too high. I currently have a c30-74 that was making 230WHP on the 1.6 and may move up to a c30-94 in the future (hence my though of getting rods). The stock 1.6 bottom end lasted 4 years of hard boosted driving with a 7800RPM limiter and finally let go at almost 200K miles. Again, I'm hoping for input but tried to do my reading before making any plans. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...962afc72c1.jpg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...c844df35e4.jpg |
So apparently there are no STD ACL/King race bearings available and the soonest ETA I trust that I'm getting is April or so.
How dumb does it sound to slap this motor together exactly as it was and just run it for 1 season and tear it down and get the proper machine shop work/bearings rods etc next winter? Bearings look pristine, minimal scuffing on cylinder walls and pistons. I could also run a set of non race kings ($80) or OE Mazda (~$200) but I feel like it's a bit of a mistake to put the money in on those just to rip and replace after a few months driving. Maybe I'm penny pinching too hard here, but I want to get some seat time again real bad but not looking to just toss cash in the process if I'm gonna do a proper rebuild next winter. EDIT: Pulled my head out of my ass and I have a set of factory Mazda bearings and rings on the way and a set of eagles too. Gonna do it right haha |
Originally Posted by soot
(Post 1614972)
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ah shit, really? I tried to do some digging, but some of the resources I was looking at are a bit old. What failures are you seeing? I'm a bit hesitant because that would make the springs the most expensive thing about this engine. it's otherwise a rods+bearings motor
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Originally Posted by soot
(Post 1616772)
ah shit, really? I tried to do some digging, but some of the resources I was looking at are a bit old. What failures are you seeing? I'm a bit hesitant because that would make the springs the most expensive thing about this engine. it's otherwise a rods+bearings motor
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VS855 has higher spring pressure than stock springs, that has been confirmed several times now. I hadn't seen the reports of breaking though, I'll look into that.
AFAIK stock seat pressure is around 44lbs, VS855 should be ~66lbs |
Originally Posted by soot
(Post 1616780)
VS855 has higher spring pressure than stock springs, that has been confirmed several times now. I hadn't seen the reports of breaking though, I'll look into that.
AFAIK stock seat pressure is around 44lbs, VS855 should be ~66lbs |
I'm probably going to stick with them unless I see something real convincing. Springs are a wear item and the only seat wear issues I've seen in my research were from questionably cut seats or in crazy builds like TNTUBAs where's they're pushing crazy rpms/cams. I'm running stock cams and a 7800 RPM limiter for autox and shifting lower for track. Seen plenty of supertech problems too, so it doesn't seem worth paying 4x as much when I'm not going all out and revving past 8K
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Lol, so I finally got the 'dead' 1.6 apart and I'm kicking myself because I could have just slapped a new head gasket on it and kept ripping. Bearings etc were all good. Also stoked to see my old port work looking so nice and clean
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...b000bc591b.png https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...49179631b2.png hmmm... suspicious https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...67f9549e85.png https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...535edcb7da.png https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...6a4ffef36e.png https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...21871e7218.png |
This was my second throttle body failure on this car :/. Well the machine shop said they're almost done with my stuff, so I guess I'm just gonna start slapping the 1.8 together soon. It's gonna be fun to get the little power bump
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Skunk TB on the way? That was my response to busted TBs.
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Yeah I was on a 1.6 before, now that I'm on a 1.8 I ordered a skunk ripoff. I'm a little spooked about using the ripoff currently, but it seems like they are about as crappy as a real skunk. Gonna red Loctite the screws and deburr/ re-tension the spring
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Ok so next time I build an engine I'm just going to get a full gasket kit because holy shit have I forgotten a couple things have have been frustratingly steep to ship. First was the brass oil galley plugs, then valve stem seals (stupid and obvious, thought I had ordered them from 949 already) and finally the oil pump o ring and dipstick tube o ring. Knock on wood that's the last thing I'll have to order.
In other news it's been neat to finally build my own bottom end. I know it's just a stock rebuild, but I was racing on a 200k mile 1.6 before, so I'm sure this will feel quick. Here's some shiny parts: First task with the HVLP gun, Rustoleum enamel on block- https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...2e7bda38ea.png Second HVLP gun job - Cerakote thermal coating on tops and microslick on the rest https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...d1b03d5d24.png United with eagle rods - https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...39b5e37c39.png Circuit sports oil pan baffle - https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/bx...-no?authuser=0 This Weisco ring compressor is 100% worth the $30, pistons just popped right in - https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...052d284809.png And assembled! Just waiting on those stupid seals and orings before I can go any further. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...efea34818b.png |
Why did I start painting things? I'm spending more time painting shit than actually working on the car :vash:
It looks so nice though. Gonna just do some plain gloss black on the lower intake manifold and the VVT actuator and hopefully I'm done - until I have to do the engine bay :cry:. Can you tell that I hate painting? :rofl: https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...8e0f259d30.png |
General update - Engine is in and running. I started and blipped throttle off and on until it got up to temp, let it cool off, did it again and changed the oil. Ran in for 120miles staying under 5K or so and mid throttle with lots of coast down engine braking, changed oil to synth and gonna drive it for a bit. First oil change had some weird crap in it from the assembly lube and second change was quite sparkly but nothing of measurable size so fingers crossed I'm in the clear.
I'm still fighting getting the tach working and some VVT timing weirdness (my numbers look like I'm off by a tooth on the intake cam, but I have verified MANY times that I am dead on for timing). But hey, it looks like my car again! Tetris-ing in the intercooler is not my most favorite thing, but it all fits so nice once it's in there. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...b3ecfa3adf.png Another unexpected bonus is that the low mount Rotrex setup now has WAY more clearance for the lower coolant hose to pass between it and the steering rack. I might be able to add my rack spacers back in and possibly drop the engine on its mounts to the low setting. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...f19039b36a.png I'm also working on getting an external mic setup that doesn't max out from the sound of the BOV so I can get some nice driving clips. All of the lav mics I've tried so far are struggling. I'm open to any tricks you guys have found to get better audio without forking out for spendy equipment. Back on the street: https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Lv...-no?authuser=0 And finally, more cat tax: https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...06c83e918c.png |
Now I'm in the process of tidying things up in the car. Also facing a weird issue where VEAL will add fuel, and then I restart the autotune and it will pull fuel in the same spot (40-60 mph low load cruise cells), but I'm trying some things and working through that...
Finally mounted the ECU properly, I had a singular bracket, but it wasn't made for my old MS3 basic and I was feeling too lazy to make brackets to adapt it - finally got the idea of just using 3M VHB to bond the ECU to the bracket and it's working great. I also got a SD card extension cord so I can easily grab mobile logs and I VHB'd that up under the dash too. I'm also starting on my Pi dash setup again since the last setup was stolen when the car was previously parked outside. I 3d printed this case off of Thingiverse. And this time I purchased a 4a power supply/switch from Mausberry Circuits. It hooks to your 12v/GND and then you wire it to your accessory circuit. It powers the Pi on when you turn the key on, and then sends a clean shutdown command to it through the GPIO pins when you turn the key off. You can also program how long of a delay you want before the shutdown is sent so you don't have to boot up again if you stall and have to restart the car. Everything bench tested great, I'll update when it's mounted and working in the car. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...44f62391fe.png https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...6c81a3da86.png Pi mounted to back of screen https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...53e050a307.png Power supply/shutdown circuit Otherwise Engine compression tested 195-190 on all cylinders on my harbor freight tester at altitude, and feels healthy. It sounds a lot more clattery/buzzy than the 1.6 did but I think I may have a small exhaust leak. First shakedown race went well and I managed to run a top 10 raw time with the ebrake pulled because I had to rebuckle my harness at the line and then forgot to release it after :noob:. Unfortunately that was my last dry run of the day so I did not get to best it. Sorry that was a bit scattered, but I wanted to log the most recent updates. |
Just had a very successful race. 1st in class and 4th overall raw in a decently fast region. We have some awesome photographers in the club so I get lots of free eye candy. There is also metric shitloads of elevation change at this lot so people were 3 wheeling all over the place. Only car related trouble was the fuel feed popping off from a bad hose clamp and then also realizing my registration expired last year.
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...3804152327.png https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...832395ab27.png https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...d07688ec76.png https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...41970134d4.png https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...fce09dda26.png Here's a rad little triumph friend to round things out |
That triumph has some meats lol. Looks like it was a fun event!
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The wheels on it always remind me of a little kid drawing a racecar :rofl: they're absolutely massive.
It's such a cool ride though, and the owner is way nice. He was initially going to build a cobra but the triumph body came up for cheap and he said "why not". Love the end result :) |
Is it just the perspective, or is that light pole really close to that turn... :eek:
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It's a perspective thing, our local safeties are actually quite good and have a tendency towards caution since we have some slightly more reckless than usual drivers XD.
We all got real spooked in the trailer after a cherry NSX spun and looked like it stopped a foot from a pole, in reality it was still 30' away. Perspective is weird. |
I'm really struggling to get a solid VE table with this setup currently. It's dead on under load but goes super lean when the BOV opens under partial load (25-40kpa and 3K-4.5K). Even weirder is that right at that spot I have a bunch of extra fuel being added, but I'll still see lean reading there occasionally. VEAL makes my tables all kinds of whack too. I'm baffled because I had no trouble with the 1.6 and this same supercharger/BOV/injectors etc. The car feels fine driving, but the AFRs are not very stable and I haven't been able to get EGO working super well either...
Just kind of venting here because I just want to be able to enjoy my car again instead of spending hours every week trying to fix the tune and just running myself in circles. |
Also.... Any Rotrex users here switch to a Kraken setup? If my car is gonna be a pain in my ass I'd love to at least have it be fast/make reasonable boost at altitude.
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Still ironing out some tune things, but the car feels good to drive and I'm getting to put some decent runs together. Here's my best from today's autox
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Been fighting a car slump for a while now, I finished the rebuild and just haven't been super invested in it since. I'm kinda juggling the idea of parting the car and getting a FiST for a fun roadtripper and city car or starting a LFX RX8 swap since that matches my power/weight as well as comfort/dd/dual purpose goals. I'm open to suggestions in the ~$15K realm for a fun street car that has a bit more comfort (AC lol) than a Miata with a bucket/harness.
It's kinda hard to own a car that only really shines racing when a track day is ~$300 before consumables and gas and everything else is so expensive. I'm gonna at least give it a couple HPDEs before I make a final decision though. In semi related news I got to practice my self taught welding on a busted up trailer and I'm pretty proud of the result considering I didn't do a practice bead and the massive gap I was filling. I did learn that I need to grind a much larger area clean prior to a weld like this though https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...6a855b7ff2.png https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...fe2e8d5b16.png |
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