Leafy

iTrader: (1)

Awesome.

949 Racing 7.25 Twin Disc Racing Clutch

Or

SpeedSport Clutches Lite Weigh Carbon-Carbon Clutches Call and order a twin plate, will take more time might be more expensive wont be as light will be easier to daily drive.

18psi

iTrader: (76)

lol I was definitely expecting the clutch to give out.

you need dat twin disk. ask fae fae to trade you since he won't make torque til 6k rpm with his setup

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

I'd probably buy from the vendor with a website built in notepad over a tested clutch developed for the miata by a miata race winner.

18psi

iTrader: (76)

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

At least its notepad and not front page. That shows some real technical skill. And say what you will about their site, the clutches are boss. Super easy to drive and they can and will make a twin disk that will hold 800ftlbs if you want.

soviet

iTrader: (10)

I really want a 949 clutch but I cannot afford one. Even assuming I sell my current flywheel and crap - difference is still going to be $800 or more.

I do need to replace the rear main, because its obviously leaking (THANKS MAZDA)

I expected the clutch to wear out, yes, but not to start slipping :(

Ian

iTrader: (2)

Both websites are bad so no use in comparing the two.

Soviet, where are those reroute pics?

soviet

iTrader: (10)

Parts that I purchased to change my existing reroute to silicone hoses:
- SILICONE RADIATOR HOSE For HONDA CIVIC TypeR EK EG B16A B18C B20B 92-00 Black (eBay)
- Aluminium Hose Joiner Short Pipe Silicone 32mm 1.25" (eBay)
- BOLT HOSE CLAMP T BOLT ZINC PLATED 40-43mm, 1-9/16" - 1-11/16" NEW
(eBay)

Parts that I already had:
- Lightweight Alloy Aluminium Tube Pipe 500mm Long Straight Polished Intercooler A (eBay)
* this pipe is too long and ships from UK. It worked in my case but barely. An ideal size would be a little bit shorter (like 450mm or even less). Its a nice piece but if you can get a 32mm pipe cut and bead-rolled locally - do that instead.

The hose kit itself is obviously the most important piece. I just picked a random hose kit that LOOKED like it would work and was cheap yet quality-looking. Also black. Other hose kits will definitely work. Also, in my setup the radiator-reroute connection is a straight hose, due to my Trackspeed radiator. In normal reroutes you would need an additional S shaped hose to route to the radiator.

The most important thing is that everything is 1.25" or 32mm

Pictures:

This is what my old reroute looks like next to the hose kit out of the box


I had to take off the rear water neck because it's just so tight in there it's impossible to do anything (TWSH). New gaskets are FelPro fancypants gaskets.


The hose kit is quality, appearts to be 4 layer


This is how I cut and joined the hoses for the rear piece. This is the most important part. You want the hoses to form a 90* but straight from the reroute outlet it needs to bend so to not hit the firewall. align, measure, cut, align, measure, cut. Cut using a box knife.


The other piece of the hose is just a short straight, thanks to Trackspeed radiator. Most people would need an S hose there.


This is how it looks installed. The t-bolt clamps I used are great, but more difficult to install. You can use normal worm drive clamps but MAKE SURE THEY ARE MADE FOR SOFT TUBING (most clamps arent).
The clamp are very difficult to install and you can see how tight everything is. The Kia waterneck outlet also feels a tiny bit larger than 1.25" so that hose and clamp are VERY tight. This was the most difficult part.


Heres how it snakes between firewall, clutch line, fuel line and intake manifold. As you can see it doesn't touch anything. This is how I like my hoses. No touching.


And finally, an overall view. I added one support loop where the pipe is attached to the intake manifold. It doesn't leak a drop and looks good!

thenuge26

iTrader: (2)

It's not gay if your hoses aren't rubbing.

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

What is your dash temp gauge sender threaded into?

soviet

iTrader: (10)

uh
into a hole

I don't remember what the stock location is and why I didn't use it. But I remember examining the head and determining that it was a good location and correct thread.

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

Interesting. I'll check it out when I pull the engine, again, to fix the all the leaks, again.

soviet

iTrader: (10)

Oh yeah I remember now
NA heads have a separate place for the dashboard coolant sensor
e.g.


99+ heads (both BP4W and VVT) have a single sender for both gauge and ECU, so there is no separate hole for the dash sender. However, there are threaded plugs which can be used to fit the sensor - they are all same thread.

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

Good call. Right now I think my spacer is leaking because the stack of adapters I have to fit to the sender on the spacer is touching that bolt/plug.

soviet

iTrader: (10)

I bought my spacer from Hyper. In 2009.
Its a cast piece of ****, but it works. I hear he knows a thing or two about reroutes...

18psi

iTrader: (76)

no way


seriously, yall are making my sides hurt from laughing all morning

soviet

iTrader: (10)

Dude I dug out the Pms from miata.net


lol.

AbeFM

iTrader: (3)

That's so last year....

soviet

iTrader: (10)

I agree.
But tapping is for cavemen.

If I'll ever put the VVT head on this engine, it's going to have fittings welded to it.

AbeFM

iTrader: (3)

I'd probably warp the head and likely the shocktower mounts, too.