soviet

iTrader: (10)

I have a DW300. It should be enough of pump.
-10AN feed is insanely overkill and expensive. -8AN, maybe, but I think even -6AN will be sufficient for my needs. I'm perfectly happy daily driving at 300whp.

Flex fuel sensor is something I'll be looking for tomorrow at junk yard

miata2fast

iTrader: (2)

Have you changed to a larger line from the tank?

miata2fast

iTrader: (2)

Let me try again. I skipped over Fae's post by accident.

Typically if you have an external pump, you have a larger feed coming from the tank to the pump. The line from the pump is stepped down one size. For instance, most big cars will have a 10 coming from the tank to the pump, and an 8 from the pump to the regulator. An 8 is more than enough for you, no matter how crazy you will get. Particularly with higher pressure pumps.

If you have an intank pump, you skip the feed part of the system.

Just like Fae suggested, go with the next size down as your return. In the above example it would be a 6.

Go with a flexible line from the tank to the under body, and then go with an aluminum hard line along the underbody of the car till you get to a point where you need the flex, and then run the flex of your choice to the regulator. This is the lightest, most durable, and easiest to work with.

Hope that helps.

Edit: The above AN sizes are examples only. You maybe able to step everything down one size. Check with your fuel component suppliers with the optimal size.

soviet

iTrader: (10)

The only things I replaced in the fuel system right now are the rubber lines (they were 20 years old) and fuel pump (switched to DW300).

soviet

iTrader: (10)

Ugh I posted before I read your 2nd post. It all makes sense, thanks!!

where do I get aluminium hard lines? I was thinking of doing flex lines all the way but it's $$$$.

soviet

iTrader: (10)

yay triple post!

Aluminum lines look good - http://www.russellperformance.com/mc/fuel/lines.shtml looks like I don't need a flare tool, either.

miata2fast

iTrader: (2)

Hard line is the way to go when practicle. It is much lighter and easier to work with. Flex line would have to be secured in more locations, and can still sag causing an unsafe situation.

I think I have a pic of my set up somewhere. Give me time to look it up.

Faeflora

iTrader: (2)

Ya if i had known how easy hard line is i p
would havr use it for everything including my WI.

BTW -6 sized hard line is hard to make tight radiuses with.

The only reason i say -10 is just cause big is brtter when it comes to fuel. Also i thought one was supposed to spend ALLOFIT on their car :(

soviet

iTrader: (10)

hey guys!
I've been getting the car ready for my first track day on Saturday. I lowered the boost to 10-14psi (20% duty on EBC - basically almost purely wastegate).

I'm having some issues. I had misfires, which turned out to be another dying COP. Now I just have random hiccups, but only under max load - like 5th gear WOT.

Here's a log of 5/6th gear pull. Tell me how I fix it. Is this detonation? There is loss of sync and RPM shoot up to 8300. Is my CAS dying? I have opto-isolator circuit. This basically never happens in 4th, sometimes in 5th and 6th.. uhh... no data available. Too much timing? Misfire? Tell me!!!


http://s95367906.onlinehome.us/photo....40 - Copy.msl

I was running VE Analyze, so I can only assume AFRs going super-rich after the first sync loss is due to it shitting bricks.

Faeflora

iTrader: (2)

No idea what those spikes are.

In my experience that can be a ground/short/overvoltage issue. Not guessing det. Take my det cans !

Which map was this? Timing looks weird.

soviet

iTrader: (10)

I'mma lower timing, put my resistorless plugs in and I have a spare working CAS.

If that won't fix it, I dunno :(

RavynX

iTrader: (3)

Sweet setup so far; nice autox vids. Subscribing.

Savington

iTrader: (31)

No, no, no, no. Do not do any of this.

Smaller return than feed is an awesome way to get fuel pressure fluctuations at idle and low RPM which will wreak havoc on the driveability of the car. The return line needs to be the same size as the feed line. There is no reason to downsize it, and every reason not to.

Aluminum hardline under the car? Sure, if you like things puncturing it. Aluminum hardline is probably the most useless material on the planet for automotive applications - it's weak, impossible to flare easily, and highly susceptible to vibration and fatigue failure. If you really feel the need to use hardlines, then do stainless steel hardline, or don't bother and just run braided SS w/ PTFE internals. If you do it right you can delete 4 fittings, which reduces the number of failure points in the system as well.

Remember that with E85, there are three things that are allowed to be in the fuel system:
-Anodized aluminum
-Stainless steel
-Teflon

No rubber, no bare aluminum.

Savington

iTrader: (31)

That's what you need to do. Grinding the flange down will just cut the hose in the long run.

If you have the fittings that came on the '99 rail, just cut the hard-ish hose off one of them and use that. That's what I have done on all of the NA-VVT cars we've built.

soviet

iTrader: (10)

Yeah I have those fittings now. I haven't put them on but it's really a no brainer. I tried cutting off the stock lines but they are so ------- hard (nylon lines? really?) that I'd rather spend $5 and get the adapters.

Now for fuel. Actually, what you're saying makes sense with the same size lines. 1/2" feed and return? Sure why not. I guess I'll go stainless hard lines. I like the idea and I need to learn how to flare my own lines anyways.

Any input about insulating fuel lines? I was thinking of getting some pipe insulation from McMaster and then maybe some reflective wrapping. Because might as well.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/118/3512/=hku9ns part #4463K122

soviet

iTrader: (10)

So I built MS3+MS3X+wired in sequential. Overnight. It runs great!

For what it's worth, building an MS3 is about a million times than doing MS2 + input mods + ignition mods + all the other ------' mods

shuiend

iTrader: (24)

Well your car was running great when you first got it going on MS2, so give it a little time before you say it is running great.

soviet

iTrader: (10)

well, truth be told I always had sync issues with my MS2. It was random occurence - once a month, once a week, etc. And my MS2 really looks like a clusterfuck. So I think some solder joint is loose somewhere maybe.... I don't know.

I'm just sad I didn't do MS3 earlier. It was cake and I just re-soldered my old harness.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

ms3x is so easy it hurts.

RavynX

iTrader: (3)

Makes me wish I built my own rather than ordering the MS2 v3. Still waiting after almost 2 months; darn delays. :(