shlammed

iTrader: (8)

pretty common in race spec vehicles.

which is why heat management is a huge deal.

thasac

iTrader: (3)

False.



Okay, yes, technically it is still over the manifold; however, on you set up routing the line towards the front would largely avoid radiant heat from the manifold.

I'd like to also note the upward slope off the cam cover, so I don't link oil seep will be too bad. Ignore the passenger side line ... street configuration only. I've got an AN line cap for autoX/track days. Not that my OEM 1.6/greddy is really up for a proper track day.

-ZacH

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

Except with your setup on my manifold the fitting and the cylinder #1 primary would be attempting to occupy the same space.

thasac

iTrader: (3)

Unless your #1 primary is <25mm from the cam cover, I think it would clear. The fitting is pretty close to planar with outer extents of the cam cover ... at least on a 1.6. The forged 90deg fittings are much tighter than the brazed-style AN hose ends.



-Zach

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

I welded the -10AN fitting directly to the valve cover. Trust me, I tried running it that way. That runner does com up higher than the port on the valve cover.

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

I drove it. On the roll the car around completely junk RS3s in the cold the car would not even consider hooking up in 2nd. It was not even an option. Man that felt good. On the downside the first event of the year was canceled because it was supposed to be icy and snowy and ****.

I did take a picture of why the valve cover fitting the other way wont work.



And I finally remembered to remove the swaybar pre-load. I had to ballast my dad up to my weight.


Also finished the tire spats. Didnt get to the canards. And I have the headlights working in low beam only mode currently.

I'm running a local club next weekend, should be able to set FTD.

I guess since the season has started its time for another things list. Now in order of priority/likelyhood.
hood prop
canards
finish wiring headlights
better tire spat support (right now I'll be using duct tape in one area)
new ballerass control arms and ****
wash exterior

shlammed

iTrader: (8)

Your running door mirrors on a track car?
lol

shlammed

iTrader: (8)

ps, why didn't you run the AN fitting for the valve cover forward? Would it hit the hood?

remove the engine jack thing and run it forward.

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

Its in the rules yo.


And if I rotated the valve cover fitting 180° it would hit the cylinder 1 primary.

thasac

iTrader: (3)

When's the first Deven's event? I live about 2 minutes away so I'd like to swing by and check out some autoX action - slash - drive up with a sale-sign on my c-package miata


-Zach

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

First Deven's event was last Saturday, the SCCA even yesterday was cancled because it looked like it was going to be dangerous out. But now that the season has started there's going to be an event every weekend day until the end of october.

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

Raced it saturday. It started gushing oil out of the turbo and the catch can. And then it started leaking coolant so I only got like 4/10 runs in with it. Was like 4th from ftd even carrying a cone, ftd was some gutted c5z vette on non-dot slicks. If the car had held together and I would have been able to remove my head from my *** long enough to put down a halfway decent run I think I could have gotten down to about 2 seconds faster than him. And I had some interesting clunking noises during transitions.

Coolant leak was an oring on the ---- fitting between the turbo and block, pulled the turbo and replaced it would a copper washer like I should have to begin with. That seems fixed. The oil leak was that the catch can was getting more oil than expected, like way more. I only put like a 6" piece of rubber hose at the bottom of the can with a plug to be the reservoir I filled that like halfway though the first run. Both hoses were soaked on the inside so it wasnt just the hole in the side of the block producing all the oil. I'm thinking the intake slashcut is pulling a crap load of vac. The reason it was leaking from the turbo its that ah... well it was sucking it out of the can and filling up the compressor housing then leaking between the compressor housing and the back plate. So as a stop gap measure I just decide to have the can drain into the oil pan. Hopefully that'll work.

Oh and the clunking was the spiltter mounts, the sheet metal screws pretty much ripped right out this time even though they were find on the old design so I just welded the brackets to the chassis.

TNTUBA

iTrader: (1)

Odd that you are getting that much oil in the catch can. I don't guess there are any issues with it draining back into the pan.

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

I thought it might have just been from my experimental block vent but the vent from the valve cover was also soaked. Its either, my intake slashcut it pulling way more vac than I thought and doing some weight ****, or the rings are toast. The first compression test I did when the car was on the dyno the first time wasnt completely impressive at 165psi across the board, one cylinder was 164psi. But I havent checked it since then.

I also broke down and ordered a poly bushing it on amazon for $166, it has all the control arms, the diff, and the sway bar ****. I did this because my dad decided to buy me a set of sticker purple crack for some reason. So that and re-checking the tire clearance with completely fresh tires is what I'm going to be doing next weekend. Why the bushings for that? We nuked a set of 2nd event front tires on the front of my car at the end of last season right along the outside edge, assuming they produced enough grip to make the bushing deflect enough to make a significant camber change, because there were no new rub marks on the outside of the fenders.

Efini~FC3S

iTrader: (4)

Wut you gonna do if that is the case?

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

Errr... run it until it blows while I work on building a z6-ve mutant engine and crying. Lots of crying. Pray I have enough money to make the new EFR manifold out of 321 stainless like I should have done the first time. Make a custom intake manifold to fit the z6 in a rwd car. Then sell the 1.8 efr manifold and downpipe for the cost of materials and part the the rest of the 1.8 stuff. Drop 50 pounds off the nose while getting a head that looks like it flows better than the 1.8 vvt, in a 1.6 vvt package and also lower my minimum weight by 50 pounds. And in general do other stuff that no one has ever done before for a bunch of stupid reasons. But mostly crying.

Or more realistically. Take the NA8 block I have sitting in the shed, strip it down, strip down the engine in the car, see if the pistons are usable. Send the pistons and NA8 block to the machine shop and have them bore it to match. Get those rings emillio recommends, and put the **** together. The block is probably toast if the rings too a dump. I'll also drill and tap the NA8 block in the spot that bundy did rather than the spot I drilled my vvt block. And I'll probably double check the balance of all the reciprocating parts even after trackspeed did and consider having the rotating assembly completely balanced including the clutch and flywheel because trackspeed didnt have my clutch and flywheel when they built my engine. I'll probably just run the car at the jersey tour as is, run the local scca stuff in my dad's miata on crappy tires because I'm a chief and have to be there anyways. Hopefully I can get everything put back together in the car before the devens tour.

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

Video. Driving is worse than usual. But power steering is nice. I wish I had video redeaming myself in the 300zx and beating the owner by a little over 2 seconds, while still being like 10 seconds slower than my car. That thing was silly. 450hp going through 245 hankook v12's, kyb agx shock, bound up poly bushings, stock sways.

miata2fast

iTrader: (2)

What is a typical difference in time when you have a passenger in the car?

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

Its within the noise.

shlammed

iTrader: (8)

Looks like you could benefit from bracing the seat back. LOL.

Car looks like it works well.