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Leafy is there an easy way to try starting it in batch fire? The crank has a TDC notch right? That way you don't need the cam sensor input. So it takes a little longer to start initially and you don't have seq inj or ign. It's a track only car that doesn't rev to the moon, batch is fine. Oh, and you're not using the VVT anyhow, right?
Leafy is there an easy way to try starting it in batch fire? The crank has a TDC notch right? That way you don't need the cam sensor input. So it takes a little longer to start initially and you don't have seq inj or ign. It's a track only car that doesn't rev to the moon, batch is fine. Oh, and you're not using the VVT anyhow, right?
I don't think these coils could keep up firing twice as often at 8k rpm.
Yeah 7.5ms is what I get but 3-4 and then another for the spark doesnt leave much time for it to cool down. I am running VVT.
I got the NC miata crank wheel and also a 2.3 duratec cam sensor so now I can have VR for the cam. I just need my free sample of Belden cable to show up to wire that. But once I install the crank I just have to modify the .ini for TS to allow me to see the Mazda6 2.3 encoder and it should run. The VR sensor is just because this hall effect sensor already seems borderline with the MS and its only going to get worse as it heats up.
Understood, duty cycle at 8k will be close to 100% if you needed 4.5 ms of dwell but that's for a couple seconds at a time and not on all autox runs. At least for me.
I think the cam sensor issues on the NB engines has been figured out to be a connector problem by the Spec Miata guys. We were having the issue and did the SM fix and so far so good. Will know for sure when summer arrives.
I think I confused you getting rid of the balance shaft for not running VVT. Or somehow thought the Ford engines didn't have VVT. Anyhow, glad to hear you are using VVT. And that it will be running shortly. And looking forward to seeing it in Lincoln.
Nah, the cam sensor issue is definitively a lack of delta-v between the states of the hall effect sensor. And the MZR hall effect was just as bad, so I'm avoiding all that stupidness. a VR sensor will never let me down.
Understood, duty cycle at 8k will be close to 100% if you needed 4.5 ms of dwell but that's for a couple seconds at a time and not on all autox runs. At least for me.
I think the cam sensor issues on the NB engines has been figured out to be a connector problem by the Spec Miata guys. We were having the issue and did the SM fix and so far so good. Will know for sure when summer arrives.
I think I confused you getting rid of the balance shaft for not running VVT. Or somehow thought the Ford engines didn't have VVT. Anyhow, glad to hear you are using VVT. And that it will be running shortly. And looking forward to seeing it in Lincoln.
I did have the connection issue but I fixed mine by sucking less at connectors. It still happens when hot, less of an issue if I take the tire sprayer and spray the sensor.
I did a bunch of stuff like I got all the liquid plumbing finished, realized I had the engine timed wrong after I put the MZR crank pulley on and I got distracted doing it the second time and left the cam bar on and the pulley bolt in so I ******* bent the bolt I used to align the pulley (one of the coil pack bolts), and I broke part of the end of the cam off where the alignment bar goes in. Also broke the hole in the timing cover that the pulley alignment bolt goes in. No oil leak though. So now I have the full-sync light up and I'll get rpm signal but it'll say RPM not synced. Or if I plug in the injectors or the ebcs I get flickery rpm signal and rpm sync and no full-sync light. WHen I look at the trigger log it looks like it misses every other tooth after the double gap on the crank, or it misses 2 every other if I have the injectors plugged in. I'm pretty much all out of ideas, why did I have good crank signal when I had the timing set wrong but now I have crappy crank signal? I dont think I bent any of the teeth on the crank pulley enough to make a difference. I'm going to have to inspect the sensor maybe, I was running it barely bolted to anything to try and see how far off the timing was.
Why is there so much magic blue oil under the car?
Because the oil drain line that I actually got dont right the first time is below the oil level when the engine is off. This is normal for MZRs and supposedly this spot isnt below the oil level when the engine is running.
Look ma, no keyway. I was timing the motor for like the 2nd time here. After this time is when I left the alignment tools in and cracked the timing cover and semi broke a cam.
Water lines done. The Indy car team that had this turbo before me left some nice M12 to -4 an adapters in the turbo for me, The -4 union elbows and the wrench that fits the -4 actually clear the compressor backing plate, which is nice. And then I just adapted to -6 from there. More fluid connections, but why the **** easier than any of the -6 fuckery options I tried before. Thanks some dude with a million dollar budget.
Why you no start?! Yes those cam teeth are supposed to be in the missing crank teeth.
Thats some short IC piping. And look at that beautiful oil feel line.
Intercooler welded up. Boy that thing really heated up the garage. It was like 50° in the garage when I started on that thing and it was 70° in the garage when I was done, and I didnt have to turn the pellet stove on. And of course that weld under the acute angle of the pipe was a bitch.
Not shown, I finished welding up the turbo to IC pipe and added the 1" nipple for the BPV on there. But I realized I managed to not have any 1" tubing in the shop so I couldn't hook that up. I'll probably run it VTA for a while until I come up with a better turbo inlet. I'm working on making a tight printed elbow now. But I eventually want to figure out a routing to get cold air to the intake.
I'm still struggling with the ECU. I might try putting the 36-1 back on and cut the extra cam tooth off so zetec vct mode works. Failing that I'll weld a bunch of crap to the wheel and do a WV style which supposedly is the most supported cam wheel by MS.
I cant wait for this godforsaken thing to run so I can know the wiring harness is all good and then bundle it up, because it looks like *** and really annoys me every time I see the engine bay.
I got the ic piping done, engine bay is a little bit of a mess. Once I get the exhaust on so I have an o2 signal I'll run the car longer and make sure that all the wiring is good and then bundle it up nice in the silicone tape.
And you notice truck coils on there. I have no ******* idea yet how I'm going to mount those and have the hood close. The 01+ ford ranger 2.3 plug wires worked but the length is all weird and certainly isnt helping. I need to like call magnacore and find out what else uses the same engine side boot to maybe find a better alternative. I wired them to use the stock cap from the mzr wiring. No idea what size cap it is, it just has a motorcraft part number on it.
I'm having a hard time finishing this thing. Closing for the house is June 15th and I really want to get this "done" before I start doing homeowner things (new garage needs floor repair, floor epoxy, wiring, insulation, drywall, heat), but I also cant afford to spend much on all the little random **** that its going to take to finish off the build, or on dyno time.
Why not use the Mazda MZR 3-pin logic coils instead of the Ford corporate dumb coils? The 2012+ Focus and Duratec Ecoboost are also logic coil.
They're what the junk yard provided on this motor. When I was trying to find plug wires that worked while at the junk yard the mazda 3 I was testing in had 2 wire coils. So I donno. And if I'm going to spend money on new coils for an engine in sure as **** not doing anything besides truck coils.
3.5 inch exhausts are hard to fit under miatas. This is super close in all kinds of places but with the huge amount of mounts its not going anywhere. I really like these summit mounts, I wish they sold one with the bottom mount turned 90° though, it would make them easier to use in some places. I really also think I should mount it to the trans somewhere because of how far back I had to put the flex pipe.
I used solar flux on this. I'm not sure how well it worked. Also the whole time I was welding this I kept making my welds look like nice mig welds instead of tig welds, it was weird. Couldnt get a stack of dimes going. The summit brand interlocking v-bands are super duper nice. I'm never using non-interlocking vbands ever again, unless its doing something useless like holding an exhaust tip on. Like I think I'll do with this tip. I want a turn down but I also want to be able to put one of the spirals into the exhaust incase its too loud. THe spirals dont do much normally, But I think being actually inside a muffler they should help a lot more.
Having trouble with coolant temp. This motor uses only a cylinder head temp sensor and its got quite hot before I noticed and shut it off the first time. No water got into it, stupid water pump inlet thermostat. I had to pump water in through the turbo water return and then it was much better, but still over heating in TS while the temp gauge in the upper rad hose only said like 140F. Also the fan wasnt coming on. It worked when I manually did it, not sure whats going on there. Also the alternator isnt charging. I guess that super cheap semi-siezed junkyard alternator with the lightly cracked housing was a no go. I also need to extend the clutch rod to be able to fully depress the new master and actually disengage this clutch. Oh and make a shift boot, mount the coils, corner balance and align, and dyno.
04-21-2017, 06:38 AM
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