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Track'ish Oriented 99 Build (The other kind of forced induction though)
Big thanks to all you guys posting helpful info on this forum. I found myself lurking here in search of information pretty often. There are some great build threads on here too which is what prompted me to finally create an account. I think a build thread would be helpful with tracking what's being done to the car, what the future plan is, and a good place to get some feedback from people who are knowledgeable about the platform. Anyway...
This is my 1999 NB (next to the POs S2000) when it was pretty much bone stock when I bought it in 2018 with 93,XXX miles on it. It did come with the Hard Dog roll bar which was nice.
I bought the car with intention to go AutoXing - and that's what I did. Outside of regular maintenance all that I did over the past few years (until about a month ago) was change the 14" OEM wheels to the 15", replace the cast iron California spec headers for the tubular OEM headers, and install high flow cat and cat back exhaust. Also replaced the OEM springs for adjustable yellow Konis. Even though I had an intake and exhaust, I tried to keep the car as close to SCCA ES class as possible (I wasn't competitive enough for anyone to care about the intake and exhaust).
The OEM heat shield was also sand blasted and got a few coats of the same ceramic exhaust paint.
Every AutoX event was a blast with this car. And although I wasn't competitive in my class, beating some of my friends in cars which shoild be much faster was a lot of fun. Here's when things start to get interesting though. After about 4 or 5 years or AutoX, a few of my buddies and I drove to Pocono Raceway for a track sprint event. A track sprint was a great idea because I wasn't comfortable to do any wheel to wheel racing yet. Because driving in a Miata on the street for longer than 15 minutes is uncomfortable, I decided to just go ahead and buy a car dolly so that I can tow the Miata from South Jersey to Pocono Raceway.
The event was an incredible experience. Instantly fell in love. This was only back in May and unfortunately have not been able to do another track sprint since. I had been apprehensive about going to events far from home because driving the Miata pretty much all day just doesn't seem like a fun time. Being able to now tow the car to an event completely changed that... With track events further from home now on the table for consideration, I started to consider stepping out of the stock class. In my opinion the car performed great in all aspects except one thing. You guys are all aware... It's why we're all here anyway, the car just lacked some *****. Coming out of a hairpin the car just felt bogged down and slow. The braking and momentum were great all things considered but the torque just wasn't there when I needed it. Granted a lot of the issue is my lack of experience, but still. My friends with faster cars who I used to be able to compete with in AutoX pretty much wiped the floor with me and there was no one else in my class to compare to. Plus it's fun to go fast.
I always liked the idea of a supercharger on the Miata. The idea of more low end torque was really attractive to me. So I started searching for a supercharger kit. You guys probably know this but, but I didn't, pretty much no one makes new roots style kits anymore unless you want the clodside FFS. I honestly wouldn't mind the FFS, but I was priced out of if unfortunately. Plus I know eventually I would probably want an intercooler if the car were to ever make any serious power. I ended up finding a used M45 Jackson Racing supercharger kit for sale and bought it. I pretty much snagged it immediately because it was the only kit that came up for a while. I woild have preferred an MP62 kit but beggers can't be choosers, right?
Well. I read a bunch of people's experience with the M45 (mostly on here) and you guys made it clear that the MP62 is the way to go if you have the option. So I kept my eye out for one for ***** and giggles. Literally the day the M45 is shipped to me from the South, I find a local MP62 kit with the correct piggy back power card for my car... So I bought that one too.
This kit allowed me to get up and running without having to immediately go with a standalone ECU which was a huge plus for me. The M45 kit would have probably have to wait until I found an ECU and a tuner to help... Well... Tune it. So I sold the M45 kit and installed the MP62.
Was determined to keep the OEM heat shield which technically isn't compatible with the BRP MP62 bracket. It actually worked out well after some modification to access the exhaust studs.
This is pretty much where the car stands now. It's a joy to drive. Have not had a chance to do any AutoX or track sprints since but there is an AutoX event coming up this weekend. I've been dailying the car just to work out some kinks if any, but luckily there hasn't been any.
I'm a big fan of Beavis Motorsport (along with a bunch of serious builds on here). Although the original plan was to keep this car as stock as possible, now that it's supercharged... A track oriented car sounds incredibly fun. The impact modifying a car has on resale value makes me a little hesitant to really let loose and do what I want with it, but at the same time, I have no interest in selling the car to buy another car for the same purpose. I really can't think of a better car for the purpose within my budget... I even conserved looking for another NB in bad shape that I can buy for cheap, but prices have gone up so much that I woild be paying more than I paid for this car PLUS I woild have to deal with all the rust/mechanical issues that this car doesn't have. Experimenting with ducting, areo, weight reduction, engine and suspension modifications sounds like a dream to me. So that's pretty much where the car is at right now, along with the crossroad I'm currently at.
Build dedicated track car or just enjoy a fun street car? My heart tells me to build what I want, my mind is telling me not to 'ruin' the car. I'm curious to know if any of you have struggled with the same dilemma.
Was able to get some work done on the car this past weekend. The shifter needed to be rebuilt and I was between a short shifter like the MiataRoadster, or just an OEM rebuild kit. A lot of people (especially on this forum from what I can tell) really like the OEM shifter. I can't disagree. So I went with an OEM kit from Treasure Coast Miata with the 5X Racing brass bushing.
The shifter didn't feel terrible before the rebuild but regardless getting these boots replaced made it worthwhile.
Nylon bushing wasn't even in terrible shape. Not sure when/if it's been replaced.
Tried to get as much of the old fluid out with a turkey baster... There was still a lot of gross fluid in the turret, so I just decided to take it off and give it a good cleaning/flush. I followed
The shifter had some surface rust so I gave it a quick light sanding and re painted the white dot.
Rebuild time
While waiting for the gasket maker to set I went ahead and replaced the broken glove box handle which has been in my glove box for at least 3 years haha. Super easy to do. I thought moving the key cylinder would be a pain but it wasn't at all.
Got everything back together and cleaned up. Feels great and the supervisor has approved.
A couple easy things on the to-do list: I have the "turbo" PCV (E301-13-890A) that I can install, just need some new vacuum line. And I have to mount the IAC, right now it's just nestled on top of the intake. I'll probably mount it on the passenger side firewall.
I do have a decision to make. The AC compressor appears to have died (self destructing). It's been a bit weak for the past year or so. I'm considering just deleting the AC. I have to look into what the power benefits are but the weight savings and engine bay space would be nice... I'd be curious to hear what other people think.
Last edited by HalalBuilt; 08-16-2023 at 02:21 PM.
First autocross event with the supercharger was a lot of fun. The car behaved great and was a pleasure to drive. Ended up 6th out of 37 cars in open class. I'm really happy with how well the RT660s have been performing!
I think it's time to seriously consider some suspension upgrades. Now that I'm not worried about deviating far out of the SCCA SE class, I can explore some aftermarket adjustable coilover options. Also doing some research into DIY Bilstein coilovers. It's either that or Xidas, but it would take me a while to get some Xidas... So, we'll see. Still plenty of other work the car needs in the meantime.
This weekend I'll be taking the Miata to a local road course. Very excited! This will be my first time trying (non-competitive) w2w.
Autocross - the most fun you can have sitting down!
Non-competitive w2w seems like a contradiction?
Autocross is a lot of fun!
Not sure how else to describe it. It's going to be w2w with point by's. It's not sanctioned by a racing organization like SCCA or anything. Just an event at a local track.
Ahh! I forgot to mention I picked up some goodies for racecar activities. I found someone local parting out an NB1 so I picked up the hood, front and rear bumpers, and both headlights.
Now I won't feel bad cutting into unmolested OEM body panels .
I do have a decision to make. The AC compressor appears to have died (self destructing). It's been a bit weak for the past year or so. I'm considering just deleting the AC.
AC is gone... Incase you were wondering, you can remove the AC compressor with an MP62 hotside installed. You just have to remove the brace that the support arm connects to on the outer side of the charger.
I saved all the parts in container incase I ever want to reinstall...
While the fender liners were off I cleaned up this embarrassing mess.
In preparation for the track day I did a complete brake fluid flush. The existing fluid was pretty bad. I've always been a bit apprehensive about opening up the braking system... But it want difficult at all. I'm used to working on my old Silverado on which everything was rusty and seized.
Documenting treadwear for future reference and also rotated tires.
Replaced the clutch and brake pedal pads with OEM replacements.
First time on a road course with other cars was very fun. I'm hooked for sure. The day started out with the road course school with a couple of parade lap sessions then by mid day we were able to push as hard as we're comfortable with, with point bys in designated areas. Coming from AutoX, I'm used to the occasional spin and miscalculation - so I was nervous about doing any wheel to wheel. But it ended up being totally different and easier than expected.
Only trouble experienced with the car was the power steering belt getting thrown which, I believe, in turn threw the supercharger belt. Both of them came off at the end of the second session of the day, so I popped the supercharger belt back on and ran the rest of the day without power steering. Otherwise the car ran great! Here's a short clip of a mid-day session without power steering. Chasing a new Corolla GR.
Looking for suggestions for a lap timer. In this video I was borrowing my buddies RaceBox. Worked well and I liked it but would like to know what others use before purchasing one.
Just sourced a pre-owned QMAX reroute kit that I'll be installing. The cars not experiencing any overheating issues or anything, but I do want to make some space in the front of the engine for proper radiator ducting (singular hood vents on the list to be ordered and installed eventually). Plus as it stands right now, the OEM radiator tube is in contact with & and running under the crossover tube from the supercharger to the intake manifold. So this should help a bit with heat transfer into that crossover maybe? Not sure if it really matters but regardless, a reroute is always a good idea.
Planning to go back to Raceway Park in a couple weeks!
Only trouble experienced with the car was the power steering belt getting thrown which, I believe, in turn threw the supercharger belt. Both of them came off at the end of the second session of the day, so I popped the supercharger belt back on and ran the rest of the day without power steering.
Keep a backup crank position sensor too. Since the CPS is only held by a 10mm bolt that can pivot, a wayward belt can knock the sensor into the timing wheel like a circular saw.
A potential solution is the 5xRacing CPS bracket to protect pivoting with a second bolt. During the pandemic, they were out of stock, so I rigged up my own, a simple metal bracket shaped like an upside down "V"/C-shape using the 10mm bolt just above it. Not nearly as nice, nor close tolerance with my sausage fingers. But at least the CPS is protected from the timing wheel.
Keep a backup crank position sensor too. Since the CPS is only held by a 10mm bolt that can pivot, a wayward belt can knock the sensor into the timing wheel like a circular saw.
Great tip, thank you. I actually should check to make sure the CPS is still in good shape after that incident.
Small update: I was prepping for another local event that was supposed to be this past Sunday but it got rained out unfortunately. But anyway... Replaced the original PCV with the "turbo" PCV (E301-13-890A). Still need to install some catch cans but I already have this part on hand.
Also wrapped the cross over tube from the supercharger to the intake manifold with gold bling bling racecar tape. To be fair I'm not exactly sure if it'll help with heat management. Maybe it'll help avoid heatsoak from the radiator while the car is stopped? Not sure. Eventually the plan is to install a water to air intercooler with a water reservoir in the trunk.
Replaced the front pads with Hawk Blue HPS (HB149F.505). The rear already has Hawk Black HP Plus pads (HB159N.492).
Old OE replacement pads after much abuse, about two years of autox and HPDE. Is this typical ware or did these glaze over?
Then I noticed this gash in one of the front tiers... Sheesh
I was unsuccessful in trying to source a used Rt660 before the planned event, so that I wouldn't have to buy 2 or 4 new tires. But I did find someone with a pair of barely used NT01s locally. So I grabbed those for the fronts and got them mounted and balanced.
Also finally lubed up area where the slave cylinder touches the clutch fork because that's been making an awful squeaking noise. I used white lithium grease which worked great. But the boot on the slave cylinder is torn so I suppose that needs to get replaced? Not sure how critical that is. I'm assuming it's pretty important.
Photo of sad Miata because it didn't get to go have fun.
Well...... The plan was to wait patiently, set asside some shekels, and order a set of Xidas... But then a barely used set popped up for sale... And well... Here we are.
Spring rates are 850/500 which I think might be too stiff for my current setup, but I'm not sure. Car currently has OEM 15x6. I'm between 15x8 or 15x9. We shall see!
Was supposed to go to Pocono Raceway yesterday but we had rain all weekend... Another event missed due to rain. Big sad.
Watching your car zoom through the cones made me wish I had kept working to install the MP62 kit I sold years ago. I really need more power.
I did a lot of track days on MSM takeoff shocks and springs and fat swaybars. The time sheet doesn't show how much nicer the car is to drive over the curbs and bumps.
Watching your car zoom through the cones made me wish I had kept working to install the MP62 kit I sold years ago. I really need more power.
I did a lot of track days on MSM takeoff shocks and springs and fat swaybars. The time sheet doesn't show how much nicer the car is to drive over the curbs and bumps.
I started skimming though your build thread last night. Looks like you were having trouble with the tune? Thankfully this magic box PNP piggyback card is working out well for me... so far.
Haven't been able to drive the car much since installing due to weather but looking forward to the ride improvement!
Originally Posted by emilio700
Those rate are appropriate for your project. Run it!
Emilio Approved. That should be a stamp. Thanks for the verification - I was a bit apprehensive about the high spring rates.
My next step was to go through your wheel size threads to see if I should run a 15x8 or 15x9. I think the car is right on the threshold of the two but I'm not sure which would be faster. Leaning towards 15x9...
Hmm. In a bit of a self inflected predicament here. I installed the Xidas and lowered the car about an 1" for a total ride height of 5" to the pinch weld but haven't gotten it re-aligned yet. I have a track day scheduled for Monday (a few days from now) at NJMP. I was planning to take the car in for an alignment (Supermiata dual duty) but I couldn't find a shop that A) was willing to do a non factory spec alignment or B) had availability this weekend. I was going to learn how to do a DIY alignment so I can make adjustments when needed without having this same issue in the future, but I'm a bit nervous about messing it up/not having enough time.
Does anyone do their own alignments? Is it hard to do? Videos seem pretty easy and I'm not full blown stupid. Only a little.
The other options are to run it the way it is, and by the way, it drives great honestly. Or raise it back to stock height to hopefully get close to the original alignment (maybe?).
At the very minimum verify what your toe is. That will eat up tires more than anything else. You'll be able to DIY it so that it is good enough to do an event and then preferably have it corner balanced and set up by a reputable shop. It's not super difficult it is just tedious and you need to take accurate measurements.
At the very minimum verify what your toe is. That will eat up tires more than anything else. You'll be able to DIY it so that it is good enough to do an event and then preferably have it corner balanced and set up by a reputable shop. It's not super difficult it is just tedious and you need to take accurate measurements.
Thank you for the advice!
Originally Posted by HalalBuilt
The other options are to run it the way it is, and by the way, it drives great honestly.
Terrible mistake. I took it as it was and the car was very difficult to drive, I ended up off track 3 times - pretty embarrassing haha. I will say though that the Xidas felt really nice, even with the super stiff spring rates.
Excuse the video quality. The GoPro overexposed, so I tried to make the video palatable in post editing...
There were a few things working against me that day. First and foremost was my driving skill and unfamiliarity with NJMP Lightning. My instructor is actually a spec Miata guy which was great. But in addition to driver incompetency and a alignment mess, I had NT01s in front and some pretty well used RT660s in the back. The car was very tail happy as I guess should have been expected. But since that event, I got the car aligned (tired to follow SuperMiata Race Alignment as close as possible) and went to another event at Old Bridge Raceway Park. The alignment made an incredible difference. Video from Raceway Park post alignment to come.
Throwing around the idea of picking up some Advanti Storm S1s but I can't decide on 15x8 or 15x9. Is 15x9 always better, even for a relatively low power (about 200 WHP) car?
First time doing a compression test so I definitely may have done this wrong. I performed the test while the car was cold and I didn't run the test at WOT either. I'm now reading that would be the correct way to run the test. Results are in order of cylinders from front of the car to back.
Seems kind of all over the place. I'll try re running the test warm at WOT. Should I be concerned about these results?
Spark plugs didn't look so great. Can't remember if I've ever changed them in my ownership. If I did, it was probably about 8k miles ago.
In order from left to right (Cylinder 1 to 4)
I cleaned them up the best I could with a brass wire brush and put them back in. I'll be replacing them with NGK BRK7E. Is there anything we can tell of the motors health from the condition of these plugs and compression test? I guess my main concern is if I should plan to rebuild the engine before anything else.
Plugs are indeed toast. Standard copper plugs last about weekend of abuse before the center electrodes are rounded. It need to have nice sharp edge on it like new. Iridium plugs hold there edge basically forever. Well worth the coin.
Plugs are indeed toast. Standard copper plugs last about weekend of abuse before the center electrodes are rounded. It need to have nice sharp edge on it like new. Iridium plugs hold there edge basically forever. Well worth the coin.
07-31-2023, 10:56 PM
Track'ish Oriented 99 Build (The other kind of forced induction though)
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