Tadds 92
 

i've been puting this off for a while, but its time i start a build thread. So far not much in the way of major things have been added to the car. Starting around November i will be buying parts to install in the spring. Starting with a MS build, New Hubs, Control Arm Bushings, Shocks, Brake Upgrade, And Tires.

Heres some pictures of the car right now.
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1316150253
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1316150253

You've got a lot of aero doodads, but some are probably not helping you. What you should try to accomplish are two things (ignoring race-car downforce for now):
1. Engine cooling.
2. Cold Air Induction.

The key to engine cooling (and FMIC cooling) is to maximize the air pressure in front of the heat exchanger and minimize air pressure behind the heat exchanger. This promotes air flow through the heat exchanger. Maximizing air pressure in front can be done with air dams, scoopers, blocking off the openings above the radiator, etc. Minizing air pressure behind is done by retaining the undertray, adding extractor vents, keeping your headlights down, etc.

The vents in your headlight doors are adding pressure behind your heat exchangers. This is hurting you. I'm not sure what effect the turn signal vents are having. You would have to look at the structure behind them to determine whether they help or hurt. I suspect your extractor vent is helping your heat exchangers.

As for cold air induction, you need to add an isolated path for cold air. I've got an example of cowl induction in my build thread. Cold air induction from a dedicated box behing the headlights (in which case a headlight vent to feed it is a good idea) is also effective and offers a more direct path to the turbo inlet.

BTW, it would be smart to add some heat shielding around your turbo.

thanks for the advice, after the MS build this winter. the afm is going away so i will able to build a air box. right now siting in my garage i have a few pieces of metal for that, ust got to get some exhuast wrap first.

Not a big fan of exhaut wrap. It accelerates corrosion/cracking. It almost killed me once.

I do like ceramic coatings.

ive been on the rattle can budget lately, Do they make rattle can ceramic coating.

It's not ceramic coating if it's in a rattle can. Or was that supposed to be in the sarcasm font?

well cheap forms, something similar. and not being a smartass.

Only thing you'll get is exhaust paint to spray on, otherwise you'll have to cure it like powder coating. Searching is your friend:

http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=1608324

All right everyone im looking at starting to stock up the parts for spring. so heres the beginning,
new bushings for the control arms all 4. recommendations
Shocks all 4. recommendations for realistically priced ones
brake calipers 1 is newer but the rest need done.
rear rotors, pads all the way around
New tires

Today i ordered an HKS SSQV and a new flange with a t fitting for the ic piping

So the Stockpile Has begun
so far i have
MS-1
Bmw vtps
550cc rx7 injectors

Next ordering spree will include
wideband lc-1 most likely
Walbro 255
Dual feed Fuel rail

I've heard rumors of someone running a greddy at like 250ish hp, who is this and what are the details of the build.

Sokool is running 225hp at 12psi
ThePass is running 205hp at 10psi

Just search "greddy" in the title in the dyno section.

I can picture the 250hp guy's sig picture, but I can't think of his name.

edit: It's Ben! Running 15psi.

Check out this thread: https://www.miataturbo.net/showthrea...ghlight=greddy

it really illustrates what influence the exhaust has on your ultimate power.

that was the tread i saw, thanks. does he have a build thread?

got brake upgrade yesterday, Thanks Cspence
Next step, tie rod ends. then install the awesomeness
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1323553085