Looks like a Land & Sea “DYNOmite” brand dyno.

I was under the impression Dynomites read a little low...

So yea, extremely healthy numbers?

That is um..... enormous power. Unbelievable power, even. :rofl:

But numbers don't matter. Feels way better i'm guessing? :)

"Race" Report - NASA Summer Shootout at Hallett

It was a disappointing weekend, but I'm trying to keep my chin up and learn from my failures. In the end, I packed it up after the first race. I couldn't get three laps out of the car without the engine cutting out. I swapped out my CAS and tightened down my crank position sensor, but my tach signal just kept bouncing all over the place. We think it's a short. I was too tired and hot to trouble shoot it at the track.

Lessons learned:
- Don't go racing if you don't have the time. I missed Friday practice at a new to me track.
- Come to the track with a car that's 100% ready. I had to change brake pads and troubleshoot wiring at a very hot track.
- Sleep is valuable. - I was hella tired from a conference. I tried to camp at the track on Friday night, but someone decided to have a mini bike race in the middle of the night.
- Only mount race tires when you're ready to race. - I got a screw in one of my Hoosiers while it was at the shop.
- Prepare to win. - My wiring is a rats nest. This isn't how we win.

I plan on rewiring the car, and possibly skipping Texas Motor Speedway for some private test days. I want the car to be solid for the MSRH enduro.

Here's a pic of my bouncy tach signal. Arg.

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...597e51797f.jpg
tach signal issues

I had some (similar maybe?) tach issues and it ended being a megasquirt firmware issue.

At least, I re-loaded and updated to the newest firmware on my MS and I haven’t had any problems since...


Just a thing to check...

I think I found the root cause of the tach issue. The cable to the crank position sensor was frayed. I can't believe I didn't inspect this earlier. This occurred on the original, and replacement. The wire got tangled up with the accessory belt. So, as opposed to buying the fancy ballenger motorsports sensor, I just purchased two standard replacements, wrapped them in power braid, and re-routed the cable with some extra zip ties. While I was at it, I zip tied the cam angle sensor connector.

I figure this should do the trick. Fingers crossed.

I'm also doing this rear brake caliper fix I saw in NASA's magazine. https://nasaspeed.news/tech/brakes/m...brake-removal/

In other news.. the Houston NASA enduro got canceled. I'm headed up to Miatas @ Hallett next weekend. I've got a score to settle with that track. I did some autocross last weekend, and the car ran fine. Lots of over steer with a big rear bar and tiny toyos.

It looks like my year with NASA is done. I'm going to keep running some cheap events at Hallett, and autocross. Next year, I'm plan on doing a few NASA races, and #gridlife touring cup, in Colorado.

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...4019eb600e.jpg
zip tied cam angle sensor
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...289a7a5432.jpg
top two are hardened replacements, bottom sensor has a frayed wire.

Event Report: I took the car up to the Miatas @ Hallett event. She worked like a charm. I probably got two hours of seat time each direction. I volunteered to be an instructor, so the chief instructor showed me the correct line. I also met some Miata guys from Dallas that has some good tips. By the end of the weekend, I was able to get the car down to a 1:31. That's pretty much on pace with everyone else in my run group, and 10 seconds faster than my last visit to the track.

big update
 

Big Update: Over the winter I've been getting the car prepared for #GRIDLIFE Touring Cup at COTA. This will be a support race for the Super Lap Battle event on 2/15-16. Everyone else seems to be running K24's and a lot of weight. I'm going for the lightest build with 225 R7's. I've registered as 2258 lbs with 172 max hp.

From a race weekend management standpoint, we've decided to ditch the idea of camping out of the back of my truck. We've got an RV rented for COTA. If we like it, we might trade my truck for a Class C.

Build stuff:

• Zerek Fabrication bash bar to help free up air flow
• 9 Lives Racing splitter mounts and ducting - this resulted in moving my brake ducts further out
• DIY 7 ply 3" spitter - replaced a 4" 5 ply splitter
• Hatsune Miku stickers to match our E36
• Xida Race with 1300/600 springs - replacing 10 year old TEINs
• E85 conversion parts - 450cc injectors, DW300 pump, gates barricade lines - this hasn't been installed yet, more to come

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...6b27cd750.jpeg
Xida's replacing my old TEIN's
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...fc238daa5.jpeg
New splitter mounts and ducting from 9LR. There's a Zerek bash bar under there too.
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...f4784a0e2.jpeg
Miku livery
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...06ebfcb3bb.jpg
450cc injectors and DW300 for E85 conversion

Nice.

I'm flying in from AZ on Friday so I'll be there to spectate.

Race Report: We attended the #GRIDLIFE GLTC COTA Special Stage event last weekend. This was my first GLTC event, and I am absolutely hooked. The track was awesome. The fans were great. The staff was great. My car was slow.

Here's some awesome coverage of the event:
I registered as 172 hp and 2258 lbs. The car weighed in at 2291 with driver and a full tank, so that was pretty spot on. Unfortunately, the lil BP4W didn't have the torque to hang with all the Honda motors.

Race 1: DNF - the nut fell off of the alternator charging post, and melted the alternator. Voltage wouldn't regulate. We had to go get a replacement. My idle control valve also fell off of my Skunk2 throttle body, so we made a replacement gasket out of an old box.

Race 2: 10th after a great battle with an RSX rally car

Race 3: 9th with the same battle. I just get walked on the start and catch up.

Race 4: 9th after passing the RSX and an S2000. Come to find out, that S2000 had a failing gear box.

After getting smoked by so many K motors, and realizing that torque is a lot more important that being super light, we decided to move forward with a K24Z3 swap. I've ordered the kit and I'm in the process of sourcing the motor. I'll be selling my BP4W build and all the fancy bits.

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...945f1e0a9.jpeg
I'm gonna beat that van, some day!
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...e8b0cd9b43.jpg
Setting up a pass into 11.
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...947f7a596.jpeg
Sharing a proper F1 garage with James.
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...a62db1d1cf.png
Proper coverage.

Looks like a lot of fun. Sucks about the electrical issues (reminds me I need to just ditch the IACV for race car). Got some screen time as well.

You could do a low boost turbo for less than the K24Z3. That's my plan after looking at a lot of TSE's early development information. (Though I'm not up on NASA rules and where that drops you.) I've got a Kraken manifold and DP with a EFR6258 I'll hopefully have at Gridlife Midwest to start bench mark testing.

Yea, I considered turbo, but went with what I consider to be a more reliable solution. I like the idea of having access to lots of cheap engines and avoiding the cooling issues of a turbo. There are a few turbo miatas in GLTC. They may have the leg up when we go to Colorado.

It was great to meed you guys. Car looked fun out there.

Was watching the event live. Car looked great out there

Was watching the races last weekend. Great racing! K24 is the right choice, don't listen to Cody and his crazy rear mount turbos.

You coming to NCM?

Thanks for watching the stream. That was really cool.

I'm not going to make it to NCM. My goal for 2020 is to get some cheap, local, seat time. I had a blast at COTA, and I'm planning on making it out to PPIR for the festival.

If all goes well, I'll make the long haul to the midwest stuff next year.

Update on the KMiata Swap:

1. Everything has been ordered, but I just found out that the kit is delayed until April. That's completely understandable considering the current global health crisis.
2. There's a lot of other stuff that's needed to make the swap work. I got the KMiata K20 oil pump kit, 3" exhaust, KPro ECU, Clutch, K20 harness, K24 Harness, sensors, trigger wheels, and a K24Z3 from a 2010 TSX with 80k miles. car-parts.com was a great resource for finding the motor.
3. Since everything's out of the car, I took the subframe to Vintage Connection for reinforcements.
4. I'm also rigging the car up for E85. I installed by big DW fuel pump and started collecting all the -6 AN plumbing bits, sensor, and new FPR.
5. The crank bolt was a real pain to remove. In the end, the brushless KOBALT impact and weighted impact socket did the trick.

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...633fb4ba3.jpeg
24v brushless impact and weighted impact wrench for crank bolt removal. Nothing else worked.
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...9f8c9dddd.jpeg
Mocking up fuel system plumbing.
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...cd478d940.jpeg
Tearing down my K24Z3. I took lots of pictures of the timing chain. I don't want to get that wrong, again :P