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-   -   tomrev's LFX Build (https://www.miataturbo.net/build-threads-57/tomrevs-lfx-build-95543/)

tomrev 12-26-2017 03:43 PM

tomrev's LFX Build
 
3 Attachment(s)
After viewing the other LFX build threads about eight thousand times, I felt I should add some little details, to add to the general info pile on this great powertrain option. I want to thank The Pass, Gooflaphase, Carnut, and LFX1999 for the great photo's, and detailed ideas on how to put things together. Because a lot of the moves have been shown in great detail, (like the engine bay cuts, diff mount welding, etc.) I will just show some minor stuff that doesn't usually show up, but caused me a lot of trial and error to get to where I was happy with it. I'v been doing engine swaps for about 40 years; seemed each car was going to be my life long keeper, but once built they either weren't as much fun to drive as I'd hoped, or i was just itching for more garage time, but I think the Miata / LFX will break that chain, and have a long life in my garage. A couple of the previous projects were a MGB-GT, with Ford 302, Lotus Eleven with a 1300 Suzuki twin cam, and a 914 Porsche, with a Honda V-6, which is where I was going with the Miata, till I started reading about the LFX.

tomrev 12-26-2017 04:00 PM

2 Attachment(s)
I found a nice, clean 2002 in June of 2016, and figured I'd drive it, and start changing the things I didn't like, while looking for a drivetrain, and info on what it was going to take for the swap. The seats were pretty soft, as was the suspension, so a set of MeisteR coil overs, and FM sway bars went on, and I began the search for a better seat. I really liked the feel of the NC seats, but the back width interfere's with the rear body work when slid back. I'm a little over six ft., and with this being a street build did not want a race seat; just too hard to get in and out. I found a nice set of 2006 cloth NC seats, and made up a set of new slides that lowered them a bit, and did a minor trim to the sheet metal , just forward of the seat belt tower. That, and moving the seat belt bolt swivel back about 1/2in. allowed the seats to slide all the way back, and gave me the firmer, much more planted feel I was after. I found a fresh Camaro drivetrain on Ebay, that had only been in the yard for a few days, and was able to get the full engine, trans, AC, starter, shifter shipped to me for $3K. It had around 24K miles, and was a car that had been hit in the rear. Once that arrived, I needed to start saving up the $$ for the swap, and began looking at the blogs for clues to the process, and doing little things that would need to be done, like drilling/tapping oil sender, water temp senders, etc. Also found a Cadillac diff, so that could get fresh axle seals, and new mount bushing installed.

tomrev 12-26-2017 04:30 PM

4 Attachment(s)
For the last year I'v ordered and received all the install parts from V8R, and had them make me a wiring harness, and flash the ECU. After driving the car into Fall, I started advertising the stock drivetrain, and once someone wanted the trans, began the project, pulled the stock parts, and have sold almost all of the un-needed parts. As of today, the engine is in, mostly plumbed, engine bay wiring is complete, and rear suspension and cradle are out. Next up is pulling the gas tank, and swapping the fuel pump, and ordering the -6 line to make the new lines up. One simple task that turned into a lot of work was the re-rout for the heater core. I started out copying the V8R kit, using AN bulkhead fittings and hose, but found that the 90 deg. sweeps took up too much space to allow the heater core assembly, and AC box to fit back in the stock locations. I ended up moving the firewall holes farther out to the pass. side, and going with brass pipe fittings, which are much flatter, and allowed everything to clear. I like to put a slight flare on tubing, for hose sealing, but don't have the tools for rolling a bead on small dia. tube. Slipping the right size socket in the tube, and thunking it a few times create's a good flare. I used the Gates hose, part # 28469 to exit the core, sweep around behind the core, and mate up with the brass firewall fittings. It also seemed easier to adapt the engine side line that is 3/4in. down to 5/8's right at the engine, rather than on the core side of the car. I cut the Camaro heater tube assembly pretty close to the block, and re-welded a factory 5/8's end back on, so everything would be 5/8's hose, and that ended up being a lot easier to work with.

portabull 12-26-2017 05:00 PM

i agree that you will probably keep this car a long time. they are most excellent with the lfx. btw, that lotus is a beauty.

tomrev 12-26-2017 06:02 PM

The build info on your car was super helpful; is it all set and running well now? The Lotus was a lot of fun to make, but the seat is so far back, it was like driving an old motorboat, I was pretty much sitting on the diff.

portabull 12-26-2017 06:19 PM

everything is solved on our car now except the clutch. waiting till spring to plumb the air conditioning. we have all the parts for that but we're stepping away for a bit to put a turbocharger on my younger son's 94, plus it's winter haha.

tomrev 12-26-2017 07:49 PM

I'm installing all the AC bits, but it will be a low priority here in Mi. Like you, I will somehow have to make the lines, and suspect some of the wiring will be missing, what with the engine harness blending into the chassis harness being removed when the stock ECU was pulled. I look forward to hearing how you do it. I am using a stock clutch, so hope that will avoid some of the problems you are having with the clutch. I'm wondering how easy it will be to bleed an upside down bleeder?

gooflophaze 12-26-2017 08:39 PM

I really do need to make that wiring write up - I had to make a few modifications to get the A/C added in.

I had complained a lot about bleeding the clutch in our thread - but most of that griping was due to the spring that escaped the hub. I made a lot more noise about it than was really necessary - trying to reverse-bleed, gravity bleed, vacuum bleed - when after all it was the clutch disc that was kaput. Using a mighty-vac helps speed up the slave bleed since there's quite a bit of volume to fill, but once it's primed bleeding is straightforward. Bleed nipple is still pointed downward though?

And that lotus is gorgeous.

Oh - and this might be useful for uncoiling AN6 line - grab some closet door rollers, put them on a piece of angle iron, chuck it into a vise, run the tube back and forth - quick and dirty straightener. Added the nuts at the bottom to keep the rollers parallel in the vise because I drilled the holes too far inside.

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...3c4222f2bc.jpg

tomrev 12-27-2017 03:55 PM

4 Attachment(s)
As other's have noted, some of the alternator's have the battery lug very close to the V8R's engine cradle. Rather than try and re-clock the alternator,(and have springs and bits fly all over the garage), I took a little slice out of the top of the cradle; this opened up a comfortable clearance, and doesn't affect strength. I also decided to trim the frame flange back all along the inside edge of the engine bay. You can retain a 1/8in. or so of the 90 deg. flange on top of the main frame rails, and slice off almost 1/2in. per side, and weld up the seam while doing the corner clearance mods. It opens up the bay, and does not affect strength, and any clearance helps get the engine in. As I don't have a lift, it seemed easier to raise up the car, and slide the drivetrain in from below. I'd made a box with casters years ago for moving engines around, and that worked fine. The hope was to one-time the engine, and after studying the photo's of other guy's builds, the cutting, and welding up worked out fine, and so far, it 's still in the car.

Cujoel 01-01-2018 01:55 PM

I'm curious about that notch on the frame you made since I didn't have to do that. My car is 99. When I get back home I want to take a closer look at how much clearance I have. On my rear firewall I added a notch to add additional clearance to the rear of the engine but not sure I would have done that after realizing I had to modify the pedal bracket assy and steering column mount to get the whole thing to work right.

The cable I'm using for the battery is the original GM (2013 Camaro). From the alternator it goes to fuse box, but the direct connection to the battery goes via the starter on the driver side.

tomrev 01-01-2018 02:35 PM


Originally Posted by Cujoel (Post 1459438)
I'm curious about that notch on the frame you made since I didn't have to do that. My car is 99. When I get back home I want to take a closer look at how much clearance I have. On my rear firewall I added a notch to add additional clearance to the rear of the engine but not sure I would have done that after realizing I had to modify the pedal bracket assy and steering column mount to get the whole thing to work right.

The cable I'm using for the battery is the original GM (2013 Camaro). From the alternator it goes to fuse box, but the direct connection to the battery goes via the starter on the driver side.

I'v seen two different hot lug locations on LFX alternators, and the one's like mine are right up against the V8R frame. Even with the notch, I have only a 1/16in. or so clearance, but is was easy to do. I ended up shortening, and using the stock Miata alt. pos. cable that feeds into the fuse block.

tomrev 01-01-2018 03:46 PM


Originally Posted by tomrev (Post 1459445)
I'v seen two different hot lug locations on LFX alternators, and the one's like mine are right up against the V8R frame. Even with the notch, I have only a 1/16in. or so clearance, but is was easy to do. I ended up shortening, and using the stock Miata alt. pos. cable that feeds into the fuse block.

After thinking a bit, I remembered that when V8R sent me the engine kit, the small stand off spacers, (the pair of 3.8's, and 1/2in. spacers on each motor mount plate) were missing from my engine plates, not knowing this, when I trial mounted the engine to the cradle it twisted the engine, and held the alternator tight to the frame. I fixed that with the notch, but when installing the drivetrain, it would not fit the bolt holes in the chassis, and the tranny was way off center. After looking at Ryan's install photo's, I figured out I had some missing bits, and contacted Shandelle, who sent me the missing spacers. With those installed, the drivetrain un-twisted, and all was well. Still, the alternator/cradle fit is very close, and I'm glad I added the clearance in that spot.

paNX2K&SE-R 01-01-2018 03:57 PM


Originally Posted by Cujoel (Post 1459438)
On my rear firewall I added a notch to add additional clearance to the rear of the engine but not sure I would have done that after realizing I had to modify the pedal bracket assy and steering column mount to get the whole thing to work right.

Clearance for the HPFP I assume? How much did you add? Any pics?

Cujoel 01-01-2018 06:01 PM

1 Attachment(s)

Originally Posted by paNX2K&SE-R (Post 1459461)
Clearance for the HPFP I assume? How much did you add? Any pics?


The Firewall was recessed about 1.75 inches. It did not have to be that far down I think. At the time I though it did need to be that big. In the end it just created problems with the pedal assy and steering column. I got it to work, but it took a while to get all to fit correctly again. After some seam sealer, Lizard Skin and paint it came out looking nice anyway.




Attachment 219140

Cujoel 01-01-2018 06:04 PM

1 Attachment(s)
sorry having trouble with the pics

tomrev 01-01-2018 06:21 PM

Did either of you guy's end up having working AC? If so, I'll be interested in how the lines were made, and if any additional under dash wiring was needed. I have the compressor with the engine, and the stock hard lines on the pass side of the engine fit fine, but will need to make the two compressor lines. I have the AC relay sending "Pos" to the V8R harness, but am wary of the wiring circuits eliminated when the engine harness / PCM were removed. Seems like the PCM wanted to see some signals from the AC in order for it to run.

paNX2K&SE-R 01-01-2018 07:54 PM

Thanks for the pics Cujoel, it does look good with the 'skin' and paint!

Tomrev: I want to retain a/c in my car so this information would be helpful to me as well.

Cujoel 01-02-2018 12:49 PM


Originally Posted by tomrev (Post 1459479)
Did either of you guy's end up having working AC? If so, I'll be interested in how the lines were made, and if any additional under dash wiring was needed. I have the compressor with the engine, and the stock hard lines on the pass side of the engine fit fine, but will need to make the two compressor lines. I have the AC relay sending "Pos" to the V8R harness, but am wary of the wiring circuits eliminated when the engine harness / PCM were removed. Seems like the PCM wanted to see some signals from the AC in order for it to run.

Besides the AC clutch signal and ground I know there is a high pressure signal as well which is typical of an AC system. I don't think there is a low pressure, but I'll double check when I get back home. I have both the camaro manuals and the miata manual for references.

tomrev 01-02-2018 03:21 PM

2 Attachment(s)
I was happy to see the pair of upper stock lines will still fit, with a slight bit of bending. Pretty sure the smaller line has the high pre. sender on it, and my chassis harness clips to that. I'm expecting some wiring that originally went thru the large blue harness clip, under the dash carries this signal to the now gone stock PCM, so something may be necessary there to get it working. That will be next year; for now having her as a runner is the idea. It's rarely hot enough in Mi. to ever need it, I just want to have it once I can figure it out. Photo of the stock lines, and the blue harness that worries me.

gooflophaze 01-02-2018 06:01 PM

I'm fairly confident our A/C works electrically (haven't charged it yet), though with the tighter constrains of the NA engine bay we needed to get a little bit more creative. We chopped the hard lines, welded new fittings on, had custom hoses made.

So - quick breakdown of the two systems (NA specific here) - and this is widely true of most automotive A/C -

When you press the A/C switch it goes to ground. This signal then tells the ECM that A/C wants to be turned on. The ECM checks 2 things - if you're not flooring it (by reading the TPS, avoiding power loss) and if you're low enough revs (to not overspin the compressor / causing belt slip). If it passes those two checks it goes first to the evap core temp thermoswitch. It's the two spade connectors underneath the dash in the evap core box. Normally it passes right through this - unless the core is iced up (at which point it breaks the connection). Passing this, it runs through the pressure side sensor / switch. It's a 3 position switch - it needs to see more than 30psi but less than 430psi to pass. Relay switches on and power is dumped real close to the compressor clutch, but not quite there yet. First it goes to the high side pressure switch that's mounted on the compressor itself, and then to the clutch.

Oh - and somewhere in there, the radiator fan is turned on without as much logic applied.

The Camaro side is virtually identical - except it uses a 0-5v sensor that allows the ECM to read the pressure instead of the switch, is commanded by the body module instead of a switch to activate the relay. I've read about some people using this input to read/log wideband O2's.

In ours I've wired it to bypass the ECM requirement - which means dumb things might happen, like belt squeal as we floor it. Just need to be mindfull and hit the button before you thrash it. But the thermoswitch and pressure switch are still in the loop. I might play more with the can bus to see if I can get it working to put the ECM back in the loop, but that's going to be a springtime project most likely.

tomrev 01-02-2018 08:59 PM

Thanks; This gives me a map to start tracing this out. Cool!

tomrev 01-04-2018 09:30 AM

2 Attachment(s)
Rear cradle and diff reunited this morning. I cut about 5/8's in. off the nose dowel on the diff, (that centers it in the U-joint plate); this still engages it for center, but means the cradle and diff only need to be lowered about 2in. to allow the driveshaft to be removed in future. A question for the guy's with completed cars: Were you able to rotate the clutch slave bleeder upright, as all bleeders should be? It was quite awhile ago that I joined it to the tranny, and I seem to remember it would only go in the way it's pictured, (upside down, to any normal bleeder I'v ever seen). The Camaro photos I'v seen also show it upside down. If so, did it bleed OK, and not trap some air? Now that the drivetrain is in, it will be less fun to mess with, but better to change it now, before I fill the fluid.

unk577 01-04-2018 07:56 PM

Mine is down and bled fine

gooflophaze 01-04-2018 08:41 PM

We can install the driveshaft without dropping / loosening the subframe. Just need to compress the CV joint.

Bleeder is keyed - only faces down.

tomrev 01-04-2018 09:52 PM


Originally Posted by gooflophaze (Post 1460046)
We can install the driveshaft without dropping / loosening the subframe. Just need to compress the CV joint.

Bleeder is keyed - only faces down.

Thanks for confirming; I was pretty sure it had to be that way, but it's been a year since I plugged it in. Glad I don't have to mess with it.

tomrev 01-17-2018 06:07 PM

2 Attachment(s)
With the drivetrain all in, and waiting for some SS exhaust bends to show up, I'v turned to the final wiring for the dash, and to power up the ECU. I chose to go with AutoMeter gauges, as I'll never figure out how to hook a laptop up to anything, let alone start changing stuff with one. Tach gets it's signal from the 9117 (AutoMeter) black box, wired into the LFX coil circuit, and the speedo is a GPS unit. Gas gauge will go in the near side HVAC dash hole. Tubing showed up today, so I can start fabbing the exhaust.

Cujoel 01-18-2018 07:55 PM

Nice sheet metal work. Is this a race car? I like the Autometer stuff, but I like turn signal lamps as we'll.

tomrev 01-18-2018 09:43 PM


Originally Posted by Cujoel (Post 1462334)
Nice sheet metal work. Is this a race car? I like the Autometer stuff, but I like turn signal lamps as we'll.

Nope, street car. The turn signal lamps are there, between the speedo/ oil gauge, and tach/ water temp. Hight beam is center, at top, and check engine center, below.

tomrev 02-15-2018 02:07 PM

Hood cut. etc.
 
2 Attachment(s)
She's pretty much finished; fired up for the first time a few days ago, and just need to bleed the brakes and clutch, and wait for Spring. For the exhaust, I ran the V8R's down pipes into a "Y". exited into 2 1/2 in. dia. resonator, and 2 1/2 in. back to a Dynomax valve muffler. Looking forward to what she sounds like running down the road, but in the garage, it's pretty tits! Here's a picture of the hood cuts needed to clear the engine; pretty simple for the NB. Not a great photo of the exhaust, but without a lift it's hard to capture much.

Cujoel 02-15-2018 08:43 PM

That's pretty amazing you got it up and running already. I'm still wiring up my car and my exhaust is about half done as well. Where did you get all the wiring info? I have a full set of manuals, but they aren't really designed to help you wire up a car. I guess it's kind of my fault since I decided to finally put an electronic copy of the schematic together instead of writing it up on a sheet of paper. Anyways, congrats!

tomrev 02-15-2018 10:07 PM


Originally Posted by Cujoel (Post 1467310)
That's pretty amazing you got it up and running already. I'm still wiring up my car and my exhaust is about half done as well. Where did you get all the wiring info? I have a full set of manuals, but they aren't really designed to help you wire up a car. I guess it's kind of my fault since I decided to finally put an electronic copy of the schematic together instead of writing it up on a sheet of paper. Anyways, congrats!

Thanks, it was a big relief she fired up! The V8R harness takes care of a lot of the problem, and deciding how to power some circuits just took a lot of looking at the Miata diagram to find logical leads. Still haven't figured out the AC completely, but as long as she is running, I'm happy!

Cujoel 02-16-2018 07:21 AM

I think the easiest way to find out how to wire it up is to look at what signals feed back to the LFX ECU and then integrate it into the Miata hardware. I think everything is compatible, but I haven't gotten into the ac yet. GM used a lot of reference voltages which I think are generated from the ECU. Not sure it applies to ac. I guess it's to early in the year to really run the ac. I was planning on integrating the emissions stuff as well, but I think with the new tune it all goes away anyway.

adam daly 03-09-2018 09:02 PM

Hows she running Tom? Any pics of the engine compartment?

tomrev 03-10-2018 08:59 AM

1 Attachment(s)

Originally Posted by adam daly (Post 1470905)
Hows she running Tom? Any pics of the engine compartment?

We'v had a week of unseasonable weather, which allowed me to do some short laps around my sub, which uncovered some issues. I had filled the rad to top, and the pressure tank, but mistakenly thought I'd filled the block to level as well. Waking up at 3am with the jolt that the thermostat being closed, no coolant got past into the block (!!!). I hadn't run it too long, and after using a funnel, with the top rad hose pulled, as able to get the block full, and ran her for a half hour in the garage. She went up to 190, and stayed put, no issues, so I'm hoping no damage was done. Next trip thru the sub, she's running pretty well, but with the idle hunting around a bit, and throttle seeming to hold the rev's a few seconds after being closed. I had originally made an intake with 3 1/2 in. OD tube, and I'm wondering if that is confusing the MAF size-wise, so this week started over, and am making one out of 3 in. OD tube. That's why the intake tube is missing in the photo; still needs the MAF port welded up.( Guy's with finished cars can him in here with their info, please). The exhaust is too loud as well, perfect at idle, and OK at cruise, but open the throttle, and the DynoMax valve muffler is super loud, so I pulled it, cut off the Dynomax, and welded on a Borla, and hope it will be better. Won't know till the intake is finished, and snow clears off the roads. Guy's on the Camaro sites complained that the Borla was too quiet, so I'm hoping it will work; just not a lot of room down there for a single pipe/single muffler system, even with the resonator upstream. Now I just need Spring!

unk577 03-10-2018 10:21 AM

Where is your pcv routed to?

tomrev 03-10-2018 12:07 PM


Originally Posted by unk577 (Post 1470970)
Where is your pcv routed to?

Right now it is stock, but I have the Elite Eng. catch can coming in the mail. I hadn't read anything about that issue till just recently.

gooflophaze 03-10-2018 12:13 PM

also available through summit. We jbwelded it to a piece of tube (though now we can weld aluminum - but it works).

2slow 03-10-2018 12:15 PM

Impressive. I hope the engine mounts won't need to be changed any time soon as it looks like it would be a total PIA to do :)

gooflophaze 03-10-2018 12:30 PM

https://www.summitracing.com/ga/part...et-performance - and I just remembered one more detail. Use 3.25in pipe. We used 3.00 and had to retune the MAF fuel 20% down (because the MAF is only measuring air velocity, it assumes the amount of air as the cross section of the pipe - 3.00 is 17% less crossarea than 3.25)

tomrev 03-10-2018 01:06 PM


Originally Posted by 2slow (Post 1470984)
Impressive. I hope the engine mounts won't need to be changed any time soon as it looks like it would be a total PIA to do :)

The V8R engine mounts are robust, don't expect to ever need to change them out, but the whole unit can be unbolted with the engine suspended, and slipped out, if need be.

tomrev 03-10-2018 01:10 PM


Originally Posted by gooflophaze (Post 1470988)
https://www.summitracing.com/ga/part...et-performance - and I just remembered one more detail. Use 3.25in pipe. We used 3.00 and had to retune the MAF fuel 20% down (because the MAF is only measuring air velocity, it assumes the amount of air as the cross section of the pipe - 3.00 is 17% less crossarea than 3.25)

I may be wrong, but think the V8R cars were tuned with 3 in. tube in mind. Pretty sure Ryan used 3 in. with his car. I have the V8R tune, and also plan on getting it on a dyno to check fuel trim, etc., once it's on the road, and warmer days arrive. Anyway, I have JUST fabbed up the 3in. piece, using the weld on bit you show from Summit, so might as well see how it performs. I'd like to hear from some of the other's who have finished cars running on this issue.

gooflophaze 03-10-2018 01:27 PM

We're running our own tune, which is pretty much stock + disable vats and some codes. We eventually tripped the too rich fault, long term fuel trims were maxed out at -20% (?) that tripped the code. You can view fuel trims with the torque Android app. Earlier we had snagged a Camaro K&N cold air kit off of summits clearance rack for $50 and found it used 3.25 which led me to that conclusion. I might be wrong, but it's something to note.

tomrev 03-11-2018 01:58 PM


Originally Posted by gooflophaze (Post 1470996)
We're running our own tune, which is pretty much stock + disable vats and some codes. We eventually tripped the too rich fault, long term fuel trims were maxed out at -20% (?) that tripped the code. You can view fuel trims with the torque Android app. Earlier we had snagged a Camaro K&N cold air kit off of summits clearance rack for $50 and found it used 3.25 which led me to that conclusion. I might be wrong, but it's something to note.

Thanks; I'm hoping some of the guy's with finished projects will chime in here, with what they know, and / or are using.

tomrev 03-14-2018 02:48 PM

1 Attachment(s)
OK; new 3 in. intake tube is in, and seems to have helped. Idle hunt is gone, and revving the pedal is much more linear response, like normal. Also received, and installed the Elite Eng. catch can, up by the pass. side front. The Borla sounds good as well; not exactly quiet, but I'll see once she's on the road.

Cujoel 04-04-2018 08:08 PM

Where does the the overflow for the radiator go? Did you add another catch can?

tomrev 04-04-2018 10:05 PM


Originally Posted by Cujoel (Post 1475519)
Where does the the overflow for the radiator go? Did you add another catch can?

Just down the side of the rad to ground, as in stock setup.

gooflophaze 04-04-2018 10:20 PM

So I don't necessarily think that's correct. In ours we capped the radiator cap output (and if we could weld aluminum at the time, we'd probably lop off the filler neck and seal it up). Stock radiator cap opens at 13psi. The expansion tank cap we used (15075118) is 15psi - stock camaro is 18-20psi - so the radiator cap would open before the tank could bleed off pressure.

tomrev 04-06-2018 02:21 PM


Originally Posted by gooflophaze (Post 1475542)
So I don't necessarily think that's correct. In ours we capped the radiator cap output (and if we could weld aluminum at the time, we'd probably lop off the filler neck and seal it up). Stock radiator cap opens at 13psi. The expansion tank cap we used (15075118) is 15psi - stock camaro is 18-20psi - so the radiator cap would open before the tank could bleed off pressure.

I am using the CFS rad, which has a 20 psi. cap. Rather than weld up the rad cap, it's pretty easy to thread the puke tube spout, and plug with the appropriate size allen screw. I like being able to easily fill the rad, and watch as you burp it when filling the system with coolant.

Droptimus_Rime 07-11-2018 11:25 PM

Hey everyone,
so I been following the lfx swap treads, I live in a state the requires obd2 inspections. Will the harness from v8roadsters work with the obd2 port and the car?

ThePass 07-12-2018 05:35 PM


Originally Posted by Droptimus_Rime (Post 1491002)
Hey everyone,
so I been following the lfx swap treads, I live in a state the requires obd2 inspections. Will the harness from v8roadsters work with the obd2 port and the car?

My harness was modified by V8R and the OBDII port does work and can pull codes, etc.

I do not drive mine on the street and thus have not done any emissions compliance testing with it, so I can't confirm/deny 100% that the specifics that the inspections are looking for are present, but I would expect it to be OK.

Cujoel 07-13-2018 08:40 PM

There really is not that much to hooking up an OBD port. It was something like power, ground and -/+ high speed serial links. In a Camaro there were a few other connections used for a couple other serial links, but those are not used in an engine transplant.

tomrev 04-25-2019 09:50 AM

LFX NB2
 
Here's where I located the OBD port that comes as part of the V8R harness, plus a couple of final photos, with a fresh Getrag, as the original one I used was too noisy.
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...80de85e0c5.jpg
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...0e1b5ffbf0.jpg
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...69c41693e2.jpg

thelarva 05-25-2019 05:18 PM

NC Seat Fitment
 
Tom, did you document anywhere how you fit the NC seats into this build? Did you fab up a bracket yourself?

Thanks,
Bryan

tomrev 05-25-2019 05:55 PM


Originally Posted by thelarva (Post 1536233)
Tom, did you document anywhere how you fit the NC seats into this build? Did you fab up a bracket yourself?

Thanks,
Bryan

I'll look and see if I took any photos; I do know I used the NB lower slides, and did a minor bit of cutting and welding on the NC seat upper half part. It was not a big deal to fit them, but only the 2006 NC seat will fit, as the later ones have a height position adjuster that won't fit in the NB, ( pretty sure I'm remembering correctly). I hated the barcalounger feel to the NB leather seats I had, and the cloth NC seats really hold me in, and are much more comfortable as well. I altered the seat belt "spout" or whatever you want to call it, so the belt slid out and in easier as well. Will look for pic's.


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