Ordered Corrado BBK, all 4 rotors, and some misc odds and ends from 949

woohoo, page 2. lol
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Dear lord, just stick a screwdriver across the shifter hole and cut your yearly cost of twine down to 10%.

or a jackstand...

it was spur of the moment...saw a roll of twine sitting there, saw the rollbar, and saw no negatives.

jackstands were no good as I had to move car out of garage, and back in

Get back to work!
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^where are you logged in from again?

I'll report you to your owner.
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Update
 

Few things arrived: DW Inj, IC, rotors, hellas, and some other odds and ends...will post pics of my assortment laterz


edit: pics added :drool:


Waiting on bumpstops to arrive from FCM, then I can continue with next steps which will be getting the suspension and brakes on, move the car outta the way and get the engine unwrapped and on a stand to start completing the long block

Stay tuned

new pics^

Last 2 ordered items arrived, bumpstops/boots & pedals

If not tomm night, over the weekend suspension and brakes go on ;)

those pedals are sweet. Lookin good so far.

Update
 

Well took a blind look at the suspension stuff today, realized I have more things then I require and without having read up on it I was uncertain on assembly... I don't wanna wing it and have to reinstall.

Suspension:

Illuminas, GC sleeves/springs, NB tophats (set came with 2 metal washers, and 2 rubber bushings for each hat), and FCM bumpstops (comes with 1 metal washer, 2 plastic spacers per corner)

I took a pic of everything available to me for ONE CORNER, for me to reference as I search--but at the same time; should anyone have a definitive 100% sure answer on what's the proper way to assemble, (whats needed/discarded AND the order it goes in) I'd surely be grateful ;)

Pics below 1 is everything, 2 is closeup on all the hardware I'm confused about, 3 & 4 are the tophats (each side)

Shock-bumpstop-threaded collar-spring-boot-medium metal washer (should sit on base of shaft threads)-small rubber "washer"-top hat-big rubber "washer"-big metal washer-nut.

The plastic spacers are meant to limit shock travel if you hit the limit of the shock before you start sitting on the bump stop. This limits destruction of the shock internals. The small metal washer is for the FCM bump stop, and will only work if you use FCM's threaded nuts, which go through the big rubber pieces, eliminating the need for the big and medium cupped washers. The cupped washers should sit with the rubber part inside the cup.

Boot should be zip tied somewhere, not sure where. I've never ran them. Only time I've damaged the shock rod is during installation.

Hope this helps.

P.S. If the spring is smaller than stock size, you're going to need spring isolators from FCM, $11.50x4+$15 shipping. Otherwise it'll hunt around on the top hat.

^this helps alot, thanks. Maybe it was just looks, but seemed like all the NB stuff wouldn't fit. I'm actually gonna go to my garage and bring the stuff home so I can assemble 1 corner at home, and the repeat the other 3 at the garage (no internet access there)

I know once I have it in front of me, try this method, and read FCM's info I'll likely have more specific questions

are those shocks for NBs? if not you gotta do some ghetto rigging to utilize those mounts.

No, they are NA shocks--I understood as long as I had all the NB hardware I'd be ok?

Gonna attempt to try this in a bit..will post back

Pics bitch!
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Since my suspension wasn't happening yesterday, I took advantage and had a buddy go to town on my exterior. I would've waited till the motor was in, but he's going back to school and wouldn't be back in town for a bit.

The "before" pics don't do it justice. Aside from the usual 15yrs of wear and tear. It's been seriously neglected and in the elements for nearly the last 2+years, and was covered with oily handprints and whatnot, then caked on dust, dirt, etc etc. Tried conventional aggressive cleaning to no avail.

Treatment consisted of a wash, then claybar, cutting compound, wax, seal--1 coat of each, with some spots receiving more attention with cutting compound and claybar. Took him about 3 hours including bs-ing with me. These pics also don't do justice, but believe me when I say the car feels like glass when you run along any panel....and the paint is as sharp as it could be given the history.

Pics are in progress order, with the last being finished product
If you seen my car in last 2+yrs, you'd swear it's not the same, lol

Loooooooooooooookin goood man. 100 times better.
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