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The table just allows you to get closer to the correct GM figures. Since the penalty for overdwell is ultra-catastrophic, you want to be as close as possible to the GM figures (I am slightly under them everywhere - I rounded down at all times during my conversion calculations).
I am at 1.0ms discharge, I've seen references that GM uses 2.0ms. I may go up to 2ms since I have the room to do so. Dwell + discharge x2 can never exceed cycle time, but I'm well under that limit right now (~17ms at 7000rpm).
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You should add those tables to the LS coil thread. For future reference.
+1, nice to keep all the useful stuff on specific hardware in one thread ("Love-cat" added to Savington's post).
I added a cross-reference to Savington's #373 post in the https://www.miataturbo.net/megasquir...rection-86602/thread since I'd posted questions in there regarding these values and it will help future forum "Search"es (can never have enough cross-references).
Decided to just go with the Radium connectors for simplicity. By the time I source PTFE-insulated wire in a small quantity, the bulkhead connector, the upper connector, the fuel pump connector, pins, and a crimper for everything, I would have been way over the ~$135 they charge anyway.
Also sent my headlights off to 18psi for refurb and blackout and picked up a Morimoto 4500k HID setup.
They are gross lol. But you did warn me. The real question: how in the world did you manage to get so much sand/dirt into them? Sounds like a salt shaker when shook
Yes, the horrible raccoon-eye trim from the 02SE left all sorts of nasty goo all over them. I may have gotten some of the dust/dirt in there during disassembly. The 15x10s require removal of a lot of the fender liner, so the engine bay is pretty messy in general.
Decided to just go with the Radium connectors for simplicity. By the time I source PTFE-insulated wire in a small quantity, the bulkhead connector, the upper connector, the fuel pump connector, pins, and a crimper for everything, I would have been way over the ~$135 they charge anyway.
And back to the drawing board. The top connector is 2" tall plus clearance for the wire, which won't fit under the fuel tank cover. I need a 90deg setup.
And back to the drawing board. The top connector is 2" tall plus clearance for the wire, which won't fit under the fuel tank cover. I need a 90deg setup.
And back to the drawing board. The top connector is 2" tall plus clearance for the wire, which won't fit under the fuel tank cover. I need a 90deg setup.
BTW, if you need some in-tank wire I can mail you a foot of MIL-W-22759/16 wire (Tefzel/ETFE insulation, which is like PTFE but mechanically stronger) in whatever gauge you want.
I actually have this idea in my head for a milled aluminum tube thing flat face on one side, like a tank turret with the wiring connector sticking out the side as the barrel. Drill a 1" hole in the top of the lid, bolt and seal this thing to the top and have the wires feed out at 90°. It would create another point of failure because this thing would need to seal to the top of the tank, and you would have to get creative drilling out some sort of hole pattern in the lid and then run the bolts up from inside the lid.
Bah! Probably too much work, like most of my crazy ideas.
There are actually a few good solutions that just pass wires through, but fluid will wick up through the wires and wreak havoc on things. It has to be a pinned or soldered connector.
Oh yeah, I know it's something we've discussed at length in one if the other threads.
The aluminum thing I talking about would have a mount for one of these appropriate connectors, a simple round hole for something like the Radium or a 'D' hole for the Racetronix/GM style connector.
If you were willing to strip down a lid I would imagine the 'D' style hole would be trivial to machine, the challenge would be holding the lid in the mill
I'm unhappy with my solution. But it was the best I could come up with after way too many hours of searching.
Racetronix sells a version of the GM style one. That seemed kind of close to the miata size. But it needs some lip to hold it in or something.
And don't use any of the racetronix provided heatshrink/wire/anything. Mine all fell apart in regular gasoline after like 3 weeks. It was really bad. Bare wires in the gas tank because of it. PTFE heat shrink only.
I actually have this idea in my head for a milled aluminum tube thing flat face on one side, like a tank turret with the wiring connector sticking out the side as the barrel. Drill a 1" hole in the top of the lid, bolt and seal this thing to the top and have the wires feed out at 90°. It would create another point of failure because this thing would need to seal to the top of the tank, and you would have to get creative drilling out some sort of hole pattern in the lid and then run the bolts up from inside the lid.
Bah! Probably too much work, like most of my crazy ideas.
Don't do it. The guy who built the Locost I owned had made a fuel tank out of aluminum and then hacked up the Mazda pump/mount/assembly thing to go on top. I never did get it to fully seal before selling the car and letting it become the new owner's problem.
Don't do it. The guy who built the Locost I owned had made a fuel tank out of aluminum and then hacked up the Mazda pump/mount/assembly thing to go on top. I never did get it to fully seal before selling the car and letting it become the new owner's problem.
--Ian
My brainfart involves drilling a hole in the lid and mounting a small aluminum thing to the lid, not manufacturing an entire new lid
I think the best solution for high amp into the tank is the bulkhead studs.Like this. I really admit defeat coming to this because its so kludgy but its like the only safe solution. I think the best answer is really a carb motor high flow low pressure pump in the tank feeding a small surge tank with an outside the tank pump so you dont have to deal with that ****.
This is a dumb question, in either case the flyback diode goes after the fuel pump. I believe the flyback diode protects the SSR, though, since the stock FP circuit doesn't use one, and my engineer friend confirmed this.
Oh my, anything power electronics, ping me.
A 1N4007 (1A rating) is way too small for fuel pump currents (>10A). You will need something beefy like this (20A), and with a small heatsink to boot:
The 1N4007 is only good enough for injectors and solenoids. Actuallly an SB540 is a much better choice. Gets less warm. It makes the response of my VVT solenoid much more linear wrt applied duty cycle.
The diode needs to be wired across the fuel pump, with the cathode on the + end of it.
The 1N4007 is only good enough for injectors and solenoids. Actuallly an SB540 is a much better choice. Gets less warm. It makes the response of my VVT solenoid much more linear wrt applied duty cycle.
The diode needs to be wired across the fuel pump, with the cathode on the + end of it.
The diode is rated at 1A continuous, but all continuous power will be going through the motor. Flyback current would be a quick surge, which the 1N4007 can handle 30A surge.
This is just my interpretation, is this not correct?
12-08-2016, 09:03 PM
2
I was hoping you knew something I did not.
