When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Yes the little triangular arrow thing. There's one at 12 o'clock, and one at about 10 o'clock. The one at 12 is for setting TDC. The one at ~10 is for belt tensioning. Just make sure you let the crank sprocket spin 1 & 5/6ths past TDC before you set the tension.
Finally stuck my car on the dyno today. Ive been itching to see what my car is making, finally got around to it.
Det phones in. Im ready.
The car made exactly what I predicted my first pull.
This is the result after adding 6* of timing. No more boost, nothing. Just timing. Wow. Check out that torque curve!
Another one
I left the car on the dyno tonight so tomorrow ill fiddle with it some more, you know, FOR SCIENCE! Our dyno reads kinda low so I gotta be careful not to go to crazy. The stock block will take 250wtq right? I have a track day next thursday so I dont wanna risk fraging the block.
Well I’m guessing he went 2 at a time, 3 times. Hopefully.
But yes, I’d take 2 degrees out until you have more than a 2-3ft/lbs loss, then increase by 2. Smooth out boost and afr, make sure all your safety settings are in place (knock, cold advance, etc), then track it!
You want to be careful with track days and more timing. Dynos load the car differently from driving it on the street or track, and it's not unusual to have dyno runs that are detonation-free but start pinging once the car is on the track.
How much boost is that at? Did you find MBT on it? Why did you stop at +6, was there no more power to be had at this boost level, or did it start pinging?
One thing you'll want to go back and check is that changing the timing that much can have a significant effect on the boost level that the turbo is making (either gaining or losing boost, depending). If the boost control isn't dialed in well enough to compensate for it, that can throw off your dyno comparison. So you'll want to grab the logs from the two runs and compare the MAP curves to each other to determine if those 24 hp all came from the timing, or if some of them came from an extra psi of boost or so.
If you start running the car on the track at timing levels close to the ping threshold, IMHO it's cheap insurance to throw a bit of race gas in the tank for the track day. 12 gallon gank, if it's got 8 gallons of 91 and 4 gallons of 100 in it then you've made 12 gallons of 94 octane for a cost of about $20.
How much boost is that at? Did you find MBT on it? Why did you stop at +6, was there no more power to be had at this boost level, or did it start pinging?
9.5psi. I stopped at 6 because I ran out of time. Im gonna bump to 8 and see if im at MBT. It was not pinging at 6.
Originally Posted by codrus
One thing you'll want to go back and check is that changing the timing that much can have a significant effect on the boost level that the turbo is making (either gaining or losing boost, depending). If the boost control isn't dialed in well enough to compensate for it, that can throw off your dyno comparison. So you'll want to grab the logs from the two runs and compare the MAP curves to each other to determine if those 24 hp all came from the timing, or if some of them came from an extra psi of boost or so.
MAP stayed the same at 167
Originally Posted by codrus
If you start running the car on the track at timing levels close to the ping threshold, IMHO it's cheap insurance to throw a bit of race gas in the tank for the track day. 12 gallon gank, if it's got 8 gallons of 91 and 4 gallons of 100 in it then you've made 12 gallons of 94 octane for a cost of about $20.
id rather just run less timing than deal with that
Thats because the dyno was loading up the 2500-4000 rpm cells and I was fighting knock there. So it is what it is. Its really not that bad in 3d view but whatever. I guess I could interpolate those cells to smooth it out.
Last edited by icantlearn; 07-03-2018 at 02:22 PM.
Thats because the dyno was loading up the 2500-4000 rpm cells and I was fitting knock there. So it is what it is. Its really not that bad in 3d view but whatever. I guess I could extrapolate those cells to smooth it out.
Do that. You have over a 5 degree swing (down, then back up over 5 degrees), which is not insignificant. Either the high number is going to cause knock, or the low number is going to kill power/spool. Just because certain cells are tuned on the dyno, doesn't mean you ignore the others. Use what you learned from the dyno to tune the entire map and make it smooth. At 3480 rpm and 157 kpa, is that 20 degrees a tuned cell, or a base map cell? If you were not knocking at 20 degrees, then everything between 100 kpa and 157 kpa can be more aggressive (you actually get more aggressive with more boost...), then the cells to the left and right should also be able to be make more aggressive. If the 3920 rpm row is what was tuned and is knock free, then you'd definitely be knocking at 3480 rpm.
06-20-2018, 03:34 AM
0
