Turbo Smurfette - Build in progress (slow)
09-12-2016, 08:10 AM
#722
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The target date is before Oct 7. It's getting a bit worse by the day, but luckily I'm gone next week so I may just leave it to a shop this once. Then when they mess up, I might ask you guys or haul it to Downmented's place to torch the thing and buy a kia.
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09-14-2016, 04:35 PM
#724
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Ok folks, time for some hive mind input on wiring and a bit of tuning.
Problem 1:
I've been plagued with a relatively noisy O2 sensor. I'm using an MTX-L LSU 4.9 but get fluctuations at idle. I've replaced the sensor, and have rewired to the same power/ground as the ECU. It's still dodgy. I don't think there are any leaks, if there where it'd most likely be after the o2 sensor. The sensor is downstream by the middle of the trans and sits right before the cat/test pipe.
I wired it using shielded 4 channel (power, ground, signal to MS3x, and one empty) stranded cable with the shielding going to pin2 of one of the MS3x connectors. Is there anything else to do short of switching to an AEM UEGO?
Problem 2:
My fan is still effecting the idle and occasionally stalls the car when it comes on. I also notice that the AFR spikes as the voltage drops. It goes from 15.4 AFR to 22.2 AFR shortly after a 1V drop in about half a second (will post log later this evening). Idle up duty cycle is 6.7% with a delay of 50ms. I'm using the deadtimes @Chiburbian shared from this thread: https://www.miataturbo.net/megasquir...ynamics-81448/
Is there anything to be done about the sudden voltage drop that might iron out the lean condition when the fan kicks on? I tried increasing the idle air duty cycle but something tells me that's not it.
Problem 3:
Gauges, power and accuracy. I'm using STRI gauges. The oil temp gauge tells me my oil is cooking at 240°F at normal operation and currently the only way to cool it down by 8°F is turning my parking lights on. Ok, right now they are wired to my radio for power and illumination, but should I run them on their own dedicated/relayed power from battery? I guess I could replace all the gauges, but anything to help these signals out? Looks like replacing oil pressure and EGT senders are almost the cost of gauges themselves.
Problem 4:
Knock sensor currently doesn't work. Braineack has already checked the MS3x and tells me that all is operational. I must have wired it incorrectly. One wire from MS3x and the other wire to ground, correct? How often do knock sensors go bad (mine is second hand). Also if I run a shielded 2 channel cable to the sensor, can I use the same shielding as the o2 wire or should each shielded wire have it's own ground. Definitely not chassis ground right?
in advance
Problem 1:
I've been plagued with a relatively noisy O2 sensor. I'm using an MTX-L LSU 4.9 but get fluctuations at idle. I've replaced the sensor, and have rewired to the same power/ground as the ECU. It's still dodgy. I don't think there are any leaks, if there where it'd most likely be after the o2 sensor. The sensor is downstream by the middle of the trans and sits right before the cat/test pipe.
I wired it using shielded 4 channel (power, ground, signal to MS3x, and one empty) stranded cable with the shielding going to pin2 of one of the MS3x connectors. Is there anything else to do short of switching to an AEM UEGO?
Problem 2:
My fan is still effecting the idle and occasionally stalls the car when it comes on. I also notice that the AFR spikes as the voltage drops. It goes from 15.4 AFR to 22.2 AFR shortly after a 1V drop in about half a second (will post log later this evening). Idle up duty cycle is 6.7% with a delay of 50ms. I'm using the deadtimes @Chiburbian shared from this thread: https://www.miataturbo.net/megasquir...ynamics-81448/
Is there anything to be done about the sudden voltage drop that might iron out the lean condition when the fan kicks on? I tried increasing the idle air duty cycle but something tells me that's not it.
Problem 3:
Gauges, power and accuracy. I'm using STRI gauges. The oil temp gauge tells me my oil is cooking at 240°F at normal operation and currently the only way to cool it down by 8°F is turning my parking lights on. Ok, right now they are wired to my radio for power and illumination, but should I run them on their own dedicated/relayed power from battery? I guess I could replace all the gauges, but anything to help these signals out? Looks like replacing oil pressure and EGT senders are almost the cost of gauges themselves.
Problem 4:
Knock sensor currently doesn't work. Braineack has already checked the MS3x and tells me that all is operational. I must have wired it incorrectly. One wire from MS3x and the other wire to ground, correct? How often do knock sensors go bad (mine is second hand). Also if I run a shielded 2 channel cable to the sensor, can I use the same shielding as the o2 wire or should each shielded wire have it's own ground. Definitely not chassis ground right?
in advance
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09-14-2016, 04:53 PM
#726
Sounds like lots of issues cause by electrical gremlins? Could you do what the baller bass guys do and wire a big ol' capacitor into your car? 
Have you gone through all your harness connectors all over and double check for green oxidation? Check your battery cables and ground cables at all ends closely to make sure they aren't all jacked up with oxidation under the sheath? I've seen all of these occur in old Hondas (I used to DD a old stock CRX HF that needed electrical love).
Have you gone through all your harness connectors all over and double check for green oxidation? Check your battery cables and ground cables at all ends closely to make sure they aren't all jacked up with oxidation under the sheath? I've seen all of these occur in old Hondas (I used to DD a old stock CRX HF that needed electrical love).
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09-15-2016, 01:51 PM
#729
Problem 2:
My fan is still effecting the idle and occasionally stalls the car when it comes on. I also notice that the AFR spikes as the voltage drops. It goes from 15.4 AFR to 22.2 AFR shortly after a 1V drop in about half a second (will post log later this evening). Idle up duty cycle is 6.7% with a delay of 50ms. I'm using the deadtimes @Chiburbian shared from this thread: https://www.miataturbo.net/megasquir...ynamics-81448/
Is there anything to be done about the sudden voltage drop that might iron out the lean condition when the fan kicks on? I tried increasing the idle air duty cycle but something tells me that's not it.
My fan is still effecting the idle and occasionally stalls the car when it comes on. I also notice that the AFR spikes as the voltage drops. It goes from 15.4 AFR to 22.2 AFR shortly after a 1V drop in about half a second (will post log later this evening). Idle up duty cycle is 6.7% with a delay of 50ms. I'm using the deadtimes @Chiburbian shared from this thread: https://www.miataturbo.net/megasquir...ynamics-81448/
Is there anything to be done about the sudden voltage drop that might iron out the lean condition when the fan kicks on? I tried increasing the idle air duty cycle but something tells me that's not it.
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09-15-2016, 02:03 PM
#730
I didn't look back in your thread, but have you performed a battery calibration to make sure that the voltage that the megasquirt sees corresponds with what voltage is at the injectors? This might make a small difference at least in terms of voltage regulation and fuel injector performance.
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09-27-2016, 01:19 PM
#732
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Some small updates:
1) BlackbirdFabworx GT3 bar came in. So sechsy.
2) My STRI gauges are being a pain in the ***. I'm looking to replace them since I cannot source the replacement sensors; X-line is no longer supported. Cannot decide if I want to go Defi Racer or STRI DSD SLMii. Otherwise, there are a host of other gauge options but I'd change up my cluster format because OCD. This entire time, the oil pressure sender has been leaking where the sensor itself is crimped into the housing. I never knew this was possible. Anyway, off to find replacement gauges.
3) Upper control arm bushings. I had some issues since installing the front subframe. Now I'm not pointing fingers or drawing conclusions but there are a lot of variables that may have contributed to some of these complications. I had replaced the front subframe with the v8 Roadster unit, as well as the v8 roadster upper control arms, and SADFab bushings. Since everything here has been changed it could be from the subframe being ever so slightly misdimensioned, which would pose no issue if using stock control arms or even the urethane with stock sleeves, but because SADFab sleeves do such a great job at keeping everything loose, it made upper control arms translating along the bolt a possibility. Even when torqued down, there was enough play that the caster couldn't be set correctly. It would wobble enough to throw it out ± 1°. The remedy was to turn the steel sleeves down 3 mm each. This corrected everything including what I had thought was pad knock under low speed braking.
Again, this is not an accusation nor am I trying to infer anything. There was a problem and there was a solution, the end. Everything is buttoned up and it handles like a dream aside from some kickback because of high caster. The car has never felt so stable at speed and there is no more vibrations, wobbles, and concerns.
4) FM Stage 2 clutch has been installed. It feels nice and heavy. Brake master cylinder and slave cylinder have been replaced as well. Engagement point is on the floor. Need to adjust that because I'm embarrassed having stalled out 5 times consecutively when trying to drive away.
5) Aside from that, the oil leak problem (aside from the shitty STRI sender) has been isolated to the exhaust cam seal, which drips behind that back plate and down the pan, and the rear cam cap. I'm happy it's all up top and accessible.
Next I'll be dropping the car off as my custom intercooler has come in and I'll undergo an over the radiator piping setup to vacate the space near the fog bezels so I can run some brake ducting with new found clearance. The Vibrant Stage 2 intercooler is too large and laggy for my setup.
1) BlackbirdFabworx GT3 bar came in. So sechsy.
2) My STRI gauges are being a pain in the ***. I'm looking to replace them since I cannot source the replacement sensors; X-line is no longer supported. Cannot decide if I want to go Defi Racer or STRI DSD SLMii. Otherwise, there are a host of other gauge options but I'd change up my cluster format because OCD. This entire time, the oil pressure sender has been leaking where the sensor itself is crimped into the housing. I never knew this was possible. Anyway, off to find replacement gauges.
3) Upper control arm bushings. I had some issues since installing the front subframe. Now I'm not pointing fingers or drawing conclusions but there are a lot of variables that may have contributed to some of these complications. I had replaced the front subframe with the v8 Roadster unit, as well as the v8 roadster upper control arms, and SADFab bushings. Since everything here has been changed it could be from the subframe being ever so slightly misdimensioned, which would pose no issue if using stock control arms or even the urethane with stock sleeves, but because SADFab sleeves do such a great job at keeping everything loose, it made upper control arms translating along the bolt a possibility. Even when torqued down, there was enough play that the caster couldn't be set correctly. It would wobble enough to throw it out ± 1°. The remedy was to turn the steel sleeves down 3 mm each. This corrected everything including what I had thought was pad knock under low speed braking.
Again, this is not an accusation nor am I trying to infer anything. There was a problem and there was a solution, the end. Everything is buttoned up and it handles like a dream aside from some kickback because of high caster. The car has never felt so stable at speed and there is no more vibrations, wobbles, and concerns.
4) FM Stage 2 clutch has been installed. It feels nice and heavy. Brake master cylinder and slave cylinder have been replaced as well. Engagement point is on the floor. Need to adjust that because I'm embarrassed having stalled out 5 times consecutively when trying to drive away.
5) Aside from that, the oil leak problem (aside from the shitty STRI sender) has been isolated to the exhaust cam seal, which drips behind that back plate and down the pan, and the rear cam cap. I'm happy it's all up top and accessible.
Next I'll be dropping the car off as my custom intercooler has come in and I'll undergo an over the radiator piping setup to vacate the space near the fog bezels so I can run some brake ducting with new found clearance. The Vibrant Stage 2 intercooler is too large and laggy for my setup.
Last edited by psyber_0ptix; 09-27-2016 at 02:30 PM.
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09-27-2016, 02:11 PM
#734
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@Downmented, can you measure your v8 Roadster upper controlarm bushing sleeve length for @hi_im_sean
Sadly, I didn't get the final length measurements after they where turned down, but perhaps we can infer since 3mm was taken off on each. I'll double check the shop notes.
Sadly, I didn't get the final length measurements after they where turned down, but perhaps we can infer since 3mm was taken off on each. I'll double check the shop notes.
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09-27-2016, 02:12 PM
#735
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Just sent you a PM Payam. It appears Ive made a mistake in transposing one of the dimensions. So it was 100% my fault, my apologies guys. Chris, yours are also too long. Ill Pm you.
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09-27-2016, 02:25 PM
#738
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It costs way too much and I should have gone with the TDR setup lol.
As much as I'm distrustful of BEGi products, I had Bell Intercoolers build a custom top side inlet/outlet endtank configuration. I was actually impressed with the Begi #3, but wanted a tad more headroom than it offered. New core is bigger than the #3 but smaller than the Vibrant Stage 2. New core (Actually two cores welded together) will be 16"x9"x3.5"
I'm hoping that the shorter piping with the larger intercooler will help reduce transient response to be similar to that of the #3 with longer through fender piping. It should be nearly half the length of the current setup. Probably a 2,0->2.25 hotside and 2.25->2.5 cold side before throttle.
As much as I'm distrustful of BEGi products, I had Bell Intercoolers build a custom top side inlet/outlet endtank configuration. I was actually impressed with the Begi #3, but wanted a tad more headroom than it offered. New core is bigger than the #3 but smaller than the Vibrant Stage 2. New core (Actually two cores welded together) will be 16"x9"x3.5"
I'm hoping that the shorter piping with the larger intercooler will help reduce transient response to be similar to that of the #3 with longer through fender piping. It should be nearly half the length of the current setup. Probably a 2,0->2.25 hotside and 2.25->2.5 cold side before throttle.
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