turbo track car bulid, because my N/A race car was too reliable...
 

Well here it goes,

Some background: Since owning a miata, ive always wanted to turbo one and track it... Once upon a time i did do this but the car ran for 5 mins at a time. Long story short i gave up on it, went back to n/a cams, mspnp, compression, intake, headers etc Here is my current race car:

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1332389479


Ive tracked this car for the last 3 years, the biggest thing mechanically ive needed to do to it was change the oil.

Recently, i built a festiva turbo... Miata engine with a gtx turbo kit bolted onto it, my learning curve:

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1332389479


Ok.... so here is my current project. Bought this car pretty much as you see it. FM2 turbo kit, link ecu, gt2560 turbo, big rad+oil cooler, torsen, 1.8 brakes, eibach ground control coilovers (ohlins shocks). FM clutch/flywheel.

My goal is to make it track reliable.

After i tore it down a bit:
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1332389479

valve cover ...... ultra sexy time.
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1332389479

My rad + oil cooler... Hopefully it will handle +30C .. adding some slim fans in the future
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1332389479

One of my challenges faced right now... wiring job night-mare.
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1332389479

Another challenge: rust... soon to be covered by fender flares. Also notice the ultra rare wheels ;)
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1332389479

Some rice for you hardparkers out there... love this wheel alot actually.
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1332389479

Im very unsure about the link ecu and what version i have.. it has a knock sensor and an IAT, this car also has a wideband o2 sensor, however its wired kinda funny and is wired to a narrow band display.... Anyone have an idea how that works?
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1332389479
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1332389479


So the future of this car:
-clean it up
-fender flares/front lip
-ducting for brakes/rad/intercooler also slim fans
-hawk blue pads (already has ss lines)
-custom i/c piping
-coolant reroute
-new water pump/timing belt
-full cage (only going to be driven on the street for a month to tune)
-13x10" hoosier slicks
-new hardware for turbo/downpipe etc new bolts and nuts
-baller orumaniamai (omori) gauges


future challenges:
-best way to do the coolant reroute
-hardware/gaskets to use for turbo/downpipe (it had none :\ do i run some?)
-tuning the link ecu figuring out the whole wideband situation. I have an AEM sitting on my desk to rest my coffee mug
-making it reliable.

oh! and BTW im a noob, so forgive the future questions.

"Too" ;)

Be sure to read the D.I.Y. stickies and lurk the DIY section. TONS of great info.

I've read through lots of it. thanks! I'm not ultra noob, and alot of that stuff is for the 1st timer

pics of my ROTATORRRSSS!
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1332477903

Yes they are in my room, don't want them in my cold garage. Its currently a beautiful spring day in edmonton/ab canada.. its -15 c and there is about a foot of snow on my driveway from today.
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1332477903

+1 for autokonexion, dealt with Carmela, just ordered an N2 kit. Quick reply awesome communication, more pics when it arrives. I hope it fit/finish/quality is good.

Just a quick question, whats the easiest way to tell if i have 1.8 brakes?

The previous owner said there were 1.8 brakes in the front, and stock 1.6 in the back but i don't want to order pads all the way from the states to find out they are wrong..

My other miatas stock 1.6 brakes, but they are all tucked away and i cant compare :(

Measure rotor diameter.

First, put a pressure gauge in-line to the calipers. Disable your rear brakes with a plug in the proportioning valve. Then add a GPS system that can accurately tell you your speed. Get up to some speed, anything will do really. Apply brakes to some pressure, any will do. Repeat this test, keeping the speed and brake pressure equal. You'll then want to calculate the coefficient of friction of both your brake pads and tires, how you do this is up to you. Then, using mathematics, and the lever arm for both a 1.8 and 1.6 rotor, you should be able to back calculate which size rotor is on your car by using the GPS verified distance it took you to stop. I recommend replacing all four wheel bearings and calipers first, to eliminate any possible error.

Good luck.

Should have thought of that, ill just search for the 1.8 rotor diameter.

Update, got my omori gauges, 100% mechanical which makes me happy!
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1332808238

You know the point where you know you should of just removed the engine but you didn't so you suck up your pride and continue going? Naked engine.
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1332808238

Here is the intercooler ill be using, just trying to figure out the best way to mount it, and install it with ducting and my front lip.... Im debating between aluminum egay I/C piping or mandrel bent exhaust tubing as intercooler piping.. both 2.5" hot and coldside.. Anyone have an opinion on what i should use? steel vs aluminum pipe.
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1332808238

Has anyone had experience with ebay slim radiator fans?

Im debating on these/getting a couple at the junk yard, roughly same price.

Couldn't find anything upon a search.

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/X2-10-PULL-PU...ht_4035wt_1257

They're fine. They work. Might not push as much air as a spal fan, but for the price difference you shouldn't be complaining too much. I've bought two and they did next to nothing, since I didn't have a shroud. Fast forward to today, and I have stock shrouds with one stock fan, and one motor/blade from one of the ebay units in the other stock shroud, as I burnt out the stock motor by accident, and had these ebay units in a box.

TL;DR: buy them with the shroud, the package deal should be on ebay.

Thanks for the reply,

I've always questioned the shroud, I'm only driving this car on the street for a month or so to get the bugs out of it, and the fans will only be used in the pits.

I know the shroud will help when the car is parked in the pits but will it block air flow through the radiator when racing? (I've never ran one on any of my race cars)

Oh, and btw i had an idea for mirrors on the miata at least for a race car.

I got 60$ a piece for my mirrors so at that price i let them go fast, Im going to be using motorcycle mirrors on mine. Small, sexy, and cheap.

Something like these:
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/MOTORCYCLE-RA...ht_4877wt_1257

Jules now I know why you got this car so cheap...Such an abortion..lol

Clean that thing up asap.

What wheels are you going to be running?

If for some reason they are Panasport c8's, I'll sell you my Wilwood BBK I had made to fit under them.

lol dean its on.......

What wheels are you going to be running?

If for some reason they are Panasport c8's, I'll sell you my Wilwood BBK I had made to fit under them.

Im running brota rb's 13x8 :(

So it has the 1.8 brakes in the front but not in the back, all i need is caliper brackets.

Does anyone know if there are differences in rear caliper brackets between 1.8 miatas?

There is a wrecked mazdaspeed miata and im wondering if i could use the rear brake brackets off that, or i need an n/a 94-97 NA caliper brackets.

couldnt find anything upon a search.

I think all MSMs have sport brakes, not sure what that does to the rears though. Again, I think they're larger than standard rear rotors. Won't be a huge problem though, they'll still larger than your 1.6s and can be balanced out with tire pressure, pad choices, proportioning valve, etc. Most people have issues with the rears being a little weak. They generally have a more aggressive brake pad back there.

As for the fans, I had the zip tied to the radiator without a shroud and they did next to nothing. It overheated, stayed over heated, and didn't cool. With the stock shrouds, I can wait a few minutes before it over heats, Turn the fans on for a minute or two, and then turn them back off*.

With a reroute, ducting, 2" ebay radiator, the above fan setup, and a mini cooper extractor in the hood, I'm 99% sure my over heating problems are gone** and those fans work wonderfully at a stop, and apparently don't interfere at speed

*they're operated with a switch

**need to have a really hot track day to be sure.