turbofan

iTrader: (1)

I vote 2 or 6.

Fireindc

iTrader: (13)

Awesome flood of updates, just spend a good 15 minutes catching up. So to clarify, you now have a fresh bottom end and head on this thing?

I love the FD wheels personally. How do 17s look on mx6's? Have any pics?

concealer404

iTrader: (3)

Well... the car isn't back together right now. Still need to rip the old ill-fated motor out, and assemble the new head.

But otherwise, yeah. Fresh not-"built"-but-optimized bottom end. The head is... well, you'll have to wait for updates. You'll like it.


17s look fine on mx6s. The first pictures in this thread were 17s actually. But with shitty 205/40-17 tires.

concealer404

iTrader: (3)

You guys want?

Fireindc

iTrader: (13)

Wait.. is that 1 intake valve per cyl? Headwork looks awesome, i'm kinda sad this isn't going into a miata.

jk :P

concealer404

iTrader: (3)

2 intake valves per cylinder. 1 exhaust valve.


The headwork IS awesome. I'm expecting positively enormous gains, considering just how awful this thing was before it was touched.


THIS one isn't going in a miata.

leboeuf

iTrader: (1)

Just curious, that little area between your exhaust valve and spark plug hole looks a little suspect.
In the b2600i world (scaled version of the 2.2 12 valve head) that head would be drinking coolant...

But we have heard that not all of the mazda castings were created equally and sometimes that crack doesn't make it to the water jacket.
Then again it could just be that the 2.6 head stretched the design too far.

concealer404

iTrader: (3)

Yep, two chambers have cracks between the spark plug boss and exhaust valve. Shitty casting. The two that have the crack have less distance between the two.

The head was taken to two shops and they verified that it's not going any further than surface. No sealing issues, and definitely not deep enough to get into any fluids.

With the work done, heat buildup in that area will also be drastically reduced, so i'm not worried about it. Turns out this head was also a non turbo head, which may have something to do with it. But... a quick poll of the forums showed that half the guys that have looked have the same cracks.

Next head for the miata will not have those cracks.

concealer404

iTrader: (3)

If you're going to run old shitty things, ball hard.

Alejo_NIN

iTrader: (2)

i laughed hard with this build.

dude, how many times have you pulled that motor! make up your mind!

lol

subbing for awesomeness

jimmyneutron

Those gauges look pretty awesome! Are you going to run the whole lot?

concealer404

iTrader: (3)

Only pulled twice now on the red car, but between the red car, the black car, and the others i've crushed, i have this **** down to a science.

What's the sense of having a full set of 25 year old gauges if you aren't going to run them all and rage when they break?




I have many things to update. Will try to get to it later today. You'll laugh, cry, vomit. Swank Force One will become a part of you.

vteckiller2000

iTrader: (4)

concealer404

iTrader: (3)

Backdating again:

5/27/14

This is really testing my patience. Took a look at the new worked head that was to replace the previous worked head that got dropped. This is what i saw.

FML.

concealer404

iTrader: (3)

5/28/14

Tack welded that piece back on, cutting the top edge flat because it warped a little, ground down the spots so they won't hit the lobe anymore, gonna turn it for a bit with some valve lapping compound in there.


Then i'll run the bitch.


#AINTCARE #YOLO #F2TLIFE

concealer404

iTrader: (3)

6/2/14

Decided it was time to get dumb.



Yummy.


Well that escalated quickly.



Finally some pics of the old block for you. Dat carbon, tho.


Every line you see is a gouge deep enough to stop a thumbnail. Ran like a top. #F2Tlife



What's this?


Oh my.


*PUKE*


Threw this gross **** out, put the empty box back together. Way cheaper than ordering the actual delete pipe from Russia, and end result went from 9lbs to about 6oz. And more airflow! And no more gross ****!



Worn hinge repair.



Floor is wrinkled, popped a body plug out. I'll smack it with a hammer a few times then glue it back on after i remove all the deadening.


Other side. Pretty much all the wiring you see in here is being removed. Because **** complicated ****.



Found a hole. Didn't pleasure myself with it.


Where did all this **** come from?


MANUAL ALL THE THINGS!!!!!!





TL;DR: Manual e'er'thang, already removed about 60lbs out of the car, have at least another 60 to go. Will be under 2500lbs with a full interior.

concealer404

iTrader: (3)

6/9/14


Guess what we're doing today, kids?



This is a chassis harness. It is the enemy. It must be defeated.


*barf*



Looks way better like this. I should convert to carbs.


My fingers love this.


*Pile of **** intensifies*


This looks fun to wrap back together in the appropriate spots. We can wing it. We have the booze necessary.


*Pile of **** intensifies further*





Ok, so what have i done here? I've removed about 10lbs of wire, plastic brackets, and over 500 feet of electrical tape that are not necessary to be present in order to drive the car. Another 20-30 wires are coming out of the chassis harness once i gut the corresponding circuits in the dash harness.

Quite literally... i will have removed 80% of the body harnesses. Me gusta.

concealer404

iTrader: (3)

Hotside now coated inside and out rated to 2500F.



Tried to take this apart because i thought it was serviceable. It is NOT, i repeat, NOT SERVICEABLE. Oops.



Apparently this was an auto-door-lock timer thing for once the car started moving. So many weird things on an 80s car.



Saturday's bounty. The white box in the middle is the CPU i was talking about that controlled the Opera Lights (Interior lights dimmed to off like a movie theater instead of just shutting off all at once) and the alarm/keyless entry. The silver box it's sitting on was some crazy **** that controlled all the speed sensitive things. (Suspension, steering.) The way it worked was mind-boggling. The car has a mechanical speedo cable and no ABS.

Ready? Get THIS ****.

There's a friggin' Hall Sensor built into the gauge cluster that measures the turning speed of the speedo cable at the cluster. Then sends electric signal to silver box. Silver box translates and sends commands to other two black boxes not shown. Active steering and active suspension.

AND IT WORKED. DA FUQ.



Blurry pic of each of the 4 harnesses in the car after stripping.
1) dash harness
2) engine side body harness
3) Engine harness (Hilariously, the smallest of the 4)
4) Main body harness

concealer404

iTrader: (3)

Lubes for my pleasure.



New brake rotors for the front... those are 6x6" square tiles. 12.6" rotors. Carbotech XP8 pads. #SWAG



Got sick of wrestling with rubber/generally shitty lines every time i dick with the drain on this. Fixed it. Other fittings for 2x -10AN valve cover vents going on. Also pictured: DW fuel pump wiring kit. (Thanks, FAP9!) Ordered bulkhead plug as well, will run 12awg all the way to pump directly, even in tank.



Will be running -10AN to each side of this can. Currently have a single setup. Moving to a dual was cheaper than getting a tri-way -10AN fitting.

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

The MX6 really have a hall sensor on the speedo? The miata has a reed switch.