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EFR6258 vs stock rods, round 1: DATSUN wins

Old 02-02-2017, 01:26 AM
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Good idea for water lines? Or nay?
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Old 02-02-2017, 08:23 AM
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Looks good to me
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Old 02-05-2017, 04:50 PM
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I'm not sure those clear. its really ******* tight in there.
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Old 02-05-2017, 05:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Leafy
I'm not sure those clear. its really ******* tight in there.
Which would you suggest?
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Old 02-07-2017, 05:07 PM
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Running pretty much all standard MS3 basic settings from Reverant and when the car starts, it idles well then oscillates between running correctly and getting really really lean like 18-19AFR, almost dying, then returning to normal and then back again.

Any diagnosis? Logs don't tell me too much.
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Old 02-08-2017, 08:12 AM
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Originally Posted by Leafy
I'm not sure those clear. its really ******* tight in there.
They should fit. I used banjo to AN fittings and they fit just fine, so I suspect these, at a smaller overall diameter, to fit as well.

OP, just be careful to route your lines AWAY from the turbine side. Easy way to a BBQ.
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Old 02-08-2017, 08:34 AM
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Originally Posted by Lexzar
Running pretty much all standard MS3 basic settings from Reverant and when the car starts, it idles well then oscillates between running correctly and getting really really lean like 18-19AFR, almost dying, then returning to normal and then back again.

Any diagnosis? Logs don't tell me too much.
Base maps get you started, and that is it. Tune the fuel and spark maps in the idle zones while running open loop idle until you get it stable.
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Old 02-08-2017, 01:23 PM
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Originally Posted by RalliartRsX
They should fit. I used banjo to AN fittings and they fit just fine, so I suspect these, at a smaller overall diameter, to fit as well.

OP, just be careful to route your lines AWAY from the turbine side. Easy way to a BBQ.
Will do. I have the stainless wrapped in that vulcan heat wrap.

Originally Posted by x_25
Base maps get you started, and that is it. Tune the fuel and spark maps in the idle zones while running open loop idle until you get it stable.
That's the thing, the idle is perfectly stable in open-loop, then transferred into closed-loop, everything is perfect 14.7 AFR at 10* timing.

My issue is narrowed down to just after start up for about 1min, IACV sounds wide open, fluctuates between a stable 13AFR (warming up) and then 20AFR sometimes dying because of that 20AFR if I have just started the car and it is full cold. Might try going open-loop then trying the start up procedure again, not sure if closed-loop is fighting my WUE or something.

I'll try to get a log and post it.

Last edited by Lexzar; 02-08-2017 at 01:25 PM. Reason: quote
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Old 02-08-2017, 02:24 PM
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Is this on a cold start or a hot restart?
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Old 02-08-2017, 02:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Engi-ninja
Is this on a cold start or a hot restart?
Both, much more severe on cold starts.
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Old 02-08-2017, 02:37 PM
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Nuts; I thought I was going to be useful for once, and suggest that it may be a IAT heat soak issue, but that would only happen on a hot restart.

Something that helped me understand the MS better was to open up my AFR, spark, and VE tables, and just watch them when the engine did strange things. If you haven't already tried that, it may help you understand the relationships between the tables better.
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Old 02-08-2017, 05:49 PM
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These maps look okay for my first runs into boost? I am still looking for a turner in SoCal that can really tune it probably sometime around June as I will have the turbo on and car going in March hopefully.
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Old 02-09-2017, 01:26 PM
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Noticed something weird. I have had this boost gaguge hooked up and it has never worked, but I was reversing yesterday and saw the gauge doing this. It only does this when in the car is in reverse. Otherwise the gauge just reads maxed out. Maybe I wired it in wrong?
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Old 02-09-2017, 02:48 PM
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Looks like a low buck ProSport........Yeah, they are not the most reliable at times.
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Old 02-09-2017, 03:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Lexzar
Noticed something weird. I have had this boost gaguge hooked up and it has never worked, but I was reversing yesterday and saw the gauge doing this. It only does this when in the car is in reverse. Otherwise the gauge just reads maxed out. Maybe I wired it in wrong?
I think that means that your turbo is on backwards so it only hits boost in reverse.
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Old 02-09-2017, 03:38 PM
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Probably a grounding issue or something. Or a faulty gauge/sender.
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Old 02-10-2017, 11:39 AM
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Originally Posted by ridethecliche
I think that means that your turbo is on backwards so it only hits boost in reverse.
****, I will go fix that right now.
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Old 02-10-2017, 12:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Lexzar
****, I will go fix that right now.
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Old 02-21-2017, 05:00 PM
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Boost to kpa, help me out. Kpa is pressure right? So it is always the same for all boost pressure's regardless of how large that turbo is/air it is pushing?

So 6psi turbo pressure would be roughly 140kpa? Even on my 6258 vs say a gt2554r? They would both hit 140kpa at 6psi, even if the 6258 is going to be pushing more air at 6psi?
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Old 02-21-2017, 05:14 PM
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KPa is a unit of pressure. PSI is a unit of pressure. Absolute pressure is just that, absolute. Gauge pressure is the measure of pressure above (or below) atmospheric. Atmospheric pressure is 100 KPa absolute, or 14.7 psi absolute. 100 KPa = 14.7 PSI. So, 6 PSI gauge = 141 KPa absolute. 14.7 PSI gauge = 200 KPa absolute = 100 KPa gauge.

They would both hit 140 KPa at 6 PSI because 140 KPa absolute IS 6 PSI gauge. Yes, you are correct that even though the pressure is the same, flow is not equal, and thus power is not equal for a given pressure.
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