viperormiata

iTrader: (24)

Totally off topic but this song uses sound samples from Windows 95

SpartanSV

The other benefit is not running your engines *** juices back into its mouth human centipede style. You also won't be passing a smog test without a catalytic converter. OEM's can't do it. What makes you think you can?

Windows95

Thanks. If I ever make a post-install video, I'm definitely using this for the background music.

Solid visual on that EGR metaphor. I don't have a strong basis for passing the sniff test on a catless system other than reading about a few others who claim to have done so on a good tune. I'm not against adding a cat. I'm mostly just curious if it's possible.

Windows95

Currently in the process of installing the water bypass system from BEGi. I removed the power steering pump so I could remove the OEM water inlet flange and the pipe that goes back to the heater hose.

I put on a fresh gasket on and began bolting up the new flange with the existing 12mm bolts. Top bolt went on fine but the bottom one didn't tighten all the way. Since the bolts are steel and the outlet flange on the water pump is aluminum I didn't want to force it. So I pulled out the bolt and noticed some shavings on the threads, so I think the hole on the pump's flange is stripped. What would you do?

1. Epoxy on the bolt since it's not a high torque application
2. Helicoil on the pump's flange
3. Replace the timing belt and water pump while I'm at it
4. Something else?

patsmx5

iTrader: (16)

I would replace the water pump. Trying to repair the threads there would suck without pulling the pump, and once it's removed you might as well just replace it.

Windows95

I knew that would be the answer, but I'm really not looking forward to the labor involved. The engine has 130k and I don't know the history so timing belt and seals are probably in order as well.

Windows95

Finally getting around to this. I will be replacing the timing belt, water pump, front crank seal, cam seals, valve cover gasket, tensioner and idler pulleys, camshaft angle sensor (CAS) seal, and thermostat outlet seal. I have a couple questions while I have everything apart.

1. For those of you with Protegé/Escort/Tracer valve covers, where did you relocate the breather tube? It looks like I can drill a 5/16" pilot hole and insert the tube just about anywhere on the valve cover. I've seen someone put it on the passenger side of the valve cover behind the PCV and run a tiny filter straight off the tube.
2. Any tips on mounting the coil pack bracket? The current plan is to tap the rear breather tube hole so I can stick a bolt in there for a homemade bracket
3. What is your opinion on adjustable cam gears? I am replacing the cam seals so I figured now would be the time to replace them if it's worth it. If OEM, has anyone powder coated them for sick club roadster style points?

Windows95

I ended up tapping a 1/8" NPT hole on the valve cover. Who knew this would require an R-size bit for the pilot hole? Not me. Anyhow this allowed me to thread on a 1/8" NPT to 3/8" hose barb adapter which accommodated a tiny Spectre 9mm filter. Photos below.

Brass adapter threaded on

Mini cone filter shown (before installing hose clamp)

To plug the rear I tapped an m10x1.25 hole and put on a fine threaded flange bolt.

Windows95

UPDATE: Timing belt, water pump, front crank seal, tensioner/idler pulleys, tensioner spring, cam seals, and CAS o-ring are done. I didn't do the thermostat seal because I'll probably do the coolant reroute in the near future. I also haven't bolted the valve cover back on because I'm not sure if I want to keep the OEM coil pack or install a COP kit.

Anyone running a Toyota/fab9/LSx COP kit with a similar setup to mine? Yay or nay?

I found a set of fidanza gears and threw em on. See below.

Windows95

I ended up going with the COP kit from Fab9. After installing those (super easy) I bolted the valve cover with the bolts in the right order and to the correct torque spec range (43 - 78 INCH/lbs.) I put em around 60.

Next, I removed the plug in my oil pan and went to replace it with a 90º 1/2" NPT to -8AN fitting so I could connect the stainless drain line. Unfortunately the A/C compressor mounting bracket was preventing me from rotating the fitting clockwise to tighten it, so I had to remove it. This was a pain because I had already reinstalled my P/S pump and belt after doing the timing belt and it's never fun to go backwards when things should be progressing. Here's how it looks.

Oil pad drain line

Here's how it looks with the turbo mounted:

Turbo mounted to exhaust manifold

Next up is installing the intercooler and piping. Getting close!

18psi

iTrader: (76)

that 90 on the oil drain line is really really terrible

Windows95

hornetball explained he did it that way because his car has A/C
hornetball explained we both have A/C so we did it that way
I put a 90 degree so the drain wouldn't have to go around all that
I'm not sure what I expected.

Look, if I did it again I might have the A/C discharged, remove the hoses and compressor bracket, and drill the side facing the driver side fender the conventional way. But I didn't do that, so I'm working with what I got. If it doesn't work out, I'm documenting the build so me and anyone who reads it can learn from my mistake. If it does, then at least we'll know there's one other dumb way to do it.

18psi

iTrader: (76)

when your turbo starts puking oil, you'll know.
carry on

Windows95

The unconventional routing continues. Here's how I ran my coolant lines to/from the turbo and how I re-routed the heater core hose–the one that used to be the hardline mounted on the exhaust side of the block. I actually re-used the 1.25" steel elbow and had a buddy weld a 3/8" NPT bung so I could attach a 5/8" hose barb to connect the heater core hose. Pics below.

View from the top down

Straight on view of the lower radiator hose

Heater core hose routing

Windows95

I could use some help figuring out how to connect all my air lines.



I've labeled them below

• A - Signal source fitting 1: Boost gauge
• B - Signal source fitting 2: Blow off valve (H)
• C - Signal source fitting 3: Cruise control
• D - Intake manifold: Cold side of intercooler piping (G)
• E - Wastegate actuator: ???
• F - Air intake: Plug it off
• G - Intercooler pipe, cold side: Intake manifold (D)
• H - BOV: Signal source fitting 2 (B)

Am I on the right track?

I have an electronic boost control (EBC) solenoid that I haven't installed. If I were to install it, it looks like I would connect the single side (2) to the wastegate and the lower port of the double side (1) to a boost source aka anywhere between the turbo and the throttle body, (G) for example.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

D to H.
E to G.

everything else capped.

Windows95

Thanks.

Windows95

Next up is finding a good location for the IAT sensor. I was going to put it on the end tank of the intercooler cold side, but as you can see the A/C condenser isn't going to allow enough room to fit the pigtail connection so I ended up plugging it.



I have a steel bung that could be welded into the pipe nearest to the outlet, but if there are other suggestions that don't involve welding, I'm all ears!

Windows95

Yeah I couldn't think of a better idea either. I added a couple coats of flat black primer before installing. You can see the new IAT bung just below the IACV hose port.

Windows95

When I first tried mounting the intercooler, the stock power steering "cooler" was blocking it. The stock cooler is basically just a hard line that makes a U-turn in front of the radiator. The shape reminds me of the heating element on an oven. Anyway that thing was preventing the FMIC from going in all the way so I cut the lines, flared on the end, and ran rubber hoses to a cheap accessory cooler. I zip tied the new cooler through the A/C condenser and onto the radiator.

P/S hard lines - cut and flared

cheap accessory cooler

Cooler fastened to the A/C condenser

Rubber hoses routed to accomodate the intercooler