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Things left to do in order of high to low importance before I start driving it :
1) Zip Tie everything in down. Engine bay is currently an effigy to the Spaghetti Monster.
2) Bumper. Nice thing to have, visually sets me apart from the 240sx DoRiFto crowd.
3) Turbo no hit hood
4) Need to install and route meth kit. All the wiring. Ugh.
5) Pretty sure my front main seal has decided to start leaking... That or the pan right in front of the motor. ****. Contemplating ignoring this one until later date.
Wow. This car rips even with puny waste-gate open boost. Torque just keeps climbing throughout the rev range as boost comes on.
BUT...
1) Still need to get hood cut to accept wastegate can. I ordered the Singular Hood vents and will chop up hood hopefully this weekend and clear out the offending bracing then. God I hope everything clears... Anyone seen if the turbosmart wastegate is any smaller physically than the BW stock can?
2) Past two days have had a real interesting problem. Upon cold start (40*F cold mornings) I get some serious issues. Car stumbles, feels like it's running on 3 cylinders and AFR's are WAAAAAAY lean(17-18afr). The lean part confuses me. I would think if it was spark-related it would be running rich as **** (fuel not going bang), so it leads me to believe that it's a fueling issue. I've check all the wires, plugs, and injectors. Fuel pressure is good. As soon as CLT gets up to about 140 everything is fine.... I have not had time to pull plugs to investigate. Anyone have any insight?
3) Dropped a Mustang last night. He rolled on me so I 'caught-up'... and kept going . It was a 5.0 and only one generation old... Rather impressed. I assume he was giving it the beans, but I cannot be sure. I wouldn't think my car to be that quick as it sits.
Car has been running 9.5 psi for a few weeks now. And by "a few weeks" I mean it's been sitting covered in snow for a few weeks.
About to crest my 500 miles of turbo/clutch break in, and will be switching back to synthetic in the motor shortly.
Hallman Pro RX manual boost controller, so spool is ok-ish hitting full (9.5 psi) by 3700rpm 5th gear at 5500ft elevation. I expected sooner, hoping EBC will help.
I'd like to do a MS3/ Cam/Crank sensor conversion all at once, but at this point in the build my funds are very much dwindling so I'll have to stick it out with MS2 and CAS for a bit longer. Not looking to set any records, and my tune is very bitch-mode conservative until MS3 and proper sensor package is installed.
Need to get my OEM knock sensor installed this oil change, and wired in. I will try to sleuth the forums for appropriate MS2 settings for the knock sensor so I can utilize the sensor properly.
Also working on getting meth kit installed. Have tank and pump mounted in the trunk, working on running the lines and the million wires required to make it work. Once that happens it'll be up to 14psi in no time. Depending on how bonkers it is at 200kpa I may settle on 18psi as final pressure . We'll see.
Spotted this on my cold-side intake piping right before throttle body :
Situation :
- Intake tract is completely isolated from crank-case. I have VTA cans right now. Planning slash-cut but lazy on implementation.
-Turbo inlet/outlet felt clean and dry to touch. No residue.
-Compressor looked clean when I pulled filter off.
-Only place oil can get into intake is turbo CHRA seals leaking. I'm at work and can't pull trubo apart. Plan is to check it out tonight. Anyone heard of EFR's leaking under vacuum?
-Used intercooler, but flushed with mineral spirits what I thought was thoroughly.
-Again, my Intake Track is Completely isolated from Crank-Case.
Quick peek in compressor inlet, clean to me, blades of compressor felt dry :
But pooled on Throttle Body Inlet (post finger-wipe to confirm oil) :
I'm confounded on how oil is getting into my intake tract. Any thoughts that i may be missing??
[B][SIZE="4"] Oil pan Drill-n-Tap :
Swear to god there's JB weld on it. Slathered up the first 4-6 threads of the fitting and she went in like a champ. Tapped to juuust the right depth. The MBSP is a close 4-5mm away from the inside of the pan. Think I did alright.
...
Originally Posted by Chooofoojoo
What the actual F***
Oil... In my intake tract.
Spotted this on my cold-side intake piping right before throttle body :
...
I'm confounded on how oil is getting into my intake tract. Any thoughts that i may be missing??
You said the MBSP was 4-5mm away from the hole you drilled/tapped. Then, you said you put JB weld on a fitting for 4-6 threads, and threaded it in so far that the picture shows no JB weld on the minor diameter of the threads, suggesting all threads that were coated in JB weld went into the pan.
My guess is the outlet of that fitting is so close to the MBSP, that the MBSP is blocking the flow of oil.
You said the MBSP was 4-5mm away from the hole you drilled/tapped. Then, you said you put JB weld on a fitting for 4-6 threads, and threaded it in so far that the picture shows no JB weld on the minor diameter of the threads, suggesting all threads that were coated in JB weld went into the pan.
My guess is the outlet of that fitting is so close to the MBSP, that the MBSP is blocking the flow of oil.
Good suggestion. Will investigate that as well. The JB was very minimal, but sealed. Should have 4-5mm between fitting and mbsp. Will pull drain line and measure. Drain is AN10.
Looks like it was the oil drain that was stopped up. Did some measuring and had a measly 2mm clearance between mbsp and end of fitting. Foamy-*** oil doesn't flow well through such a small gap. I will be trimming the end of the fitting and re-jbwelding it for maximum clearance. If that doesn't solve it I'll plug that hole and re-locate it to a different spot.
In other news, my Monoflexes are blown. Driver front started pissing oil (what is my problem with oil leaks... ugh)
I'll leave this up to the MT loyal followers :
1) Rebuild the Monoflex's $500, approx 2 month down-time
2) Feal 441s from Goodwin $1350.
3) Xidas like a man. $allofit
I can afford Xidas but honestly, I'm no track rat, drive primarily lots of street miles and am wondering if a true track setup is worth the price premium. The $700 or so saved from going with FEAL's would go a long way towards other project bits.
Setup facts :
a) 99% street, .8% autocross, .2% track use.
b) 100-200tw uhp tires 225 or 245 section width (rs3v2, maxxis vr-1 next)
c) Utter garbage Colorado roads.
Something major is not running right. Need help diagnosing.
Symptoms :
Running very lean (19.5-20.5 afr at Idle, target is 14.4)
Happened all of a sudden one day. Cruising in Vac and there was a stumble and lean condition persisted all the way limping home. I wasn't doing anything stupid or heavy-pulls that drive at all. Literally going to get a bagel...
Running rough, feels and sounds like it's only running on 3 cylinders.
Logic :
Running lean + rough makes me think it's a Fuel issue not spark. I've had some issues with the EV1-EV14 adapters I was running with the Flow force injectors, so I figured it was a bad injector or a bad connector.
What I've checked :
-Recalibrated O2 sensor (MTX-L)
-Idle is stable, at my normal rpm and not surging, but lean as ****. (to me that rules out vac-leak) but I checked all over anyways.
-Pulled all plugs, checked gap and inspected. Gap is good, coloration looks perfect on electrode, and the band on the strap appears to be just in the right place at the bend.
-Fuel pressure holding steady (via my fuel-lab pressure regulator). While running it looks to be operating properly as it's vac-referenced.
-Replaced all Injector adapters with Brand new OE Delphi EV14 connectors wired directly into harness. (no more adapters)
-Replaced Flow-force injectors with Brand new ID1000s (with appropriate Req'd fuel adjustment)
-For the hell of it bumped up Req'd fuel until idle came to stoich, but it still was running rough and on 3-cylinders, reset req'd fuel back to it's original value.
-Started motor for ~10-15 seconds then shut it off. Would feel manifold with finger and each runner is noticeably hot and none of them felt cooler than any of the others... sooo why does it feel and sound like one is not running?
What I plan to check :
-Compression test
-Borrow an air compressor and do a leak-down if questionable compression
-Go through tunerstudio and make sure nothing is fucky with odd fuel calculations. The injector pulse-widths look normal comparing to older "working fine" logs though... so ???
-????
What's Baffling to me :
- It's running lean. To me that's a fuel issue. I feel like i've gone over the entire fuel system with a fine tooth comb. Replaced fuel fitler, checked FPR, Soviet special high-flow fuel rail and line setup, Brand New ID1000s. Leads me to believe it's a wiring issue, but I don't know how to check ALL the wiring. The injector harness looks fine, no signs of damage or scuffing. I really don't know what to do or test next.HALP!!!
I believe (not 100% sure) But completely unburnt fuel will show up as lean. I have been having a nasty spark issue, and when spark cut out it went full lean.
Have you used test mode? You can individually test all fuel injectors and coils. You should be able to hear them click. Its in the canbus/test modes button.
02-15-2016, 11:44 AM
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