1993 Mazda miata - $7500
 

Category: Import
Status: Clean Title

I have a 1993 Mazda miata for sale, in USA - Alabama.

Mileage: 15000 miles
Engine Size: 1.8


Asking price is $7500



Back up for sale since I'm about to move to Pinehurst, NC. I've always backed out of selling this car at various times because it's so much fun when I get to drive it. BUT, it's time to downsize. I'm not willing to ship the car out of the country. Buyer can arrange their own shipping if necessary. Factory seats are currently installed, but the race seats and mounts are included.

Serious inquiries only. We all know what the parts are worth. I'm not asking anywhere near face value. It's a well sorted car that I have driven to and from the track 2hrs away with no issues. It could easily be a DD.


1993 Miata Build Sheet:

Engine (R&R speed and machine Huntsville, AL receipts available):
Built ’95 1.8L with forged internals.
Bored block with 84 mm 9.0:1 forged supertech pistons
M-tuned connecting rods with ARP2000 hardware
ARP Head studs
ACL race bearings
Balanced rotating assembly
Billet oil pump gear
Coolant reroute
Rotella T6 synthetic oil
’99 miata head, ported, polished, 3 angle valve job, backcut valves
’99 miata intake manifold with active VICs controlled by the megasquirt computer
m-tuned dual feed fuel rail
750cc RC injectors
Adjustable intake cam gear
Toyota coil on plug conversion
Resistorless race plugs
Knock sensor

Turbo/Exhaust:
Garrett 2860RS (turbo in pic is the chinese 2870 that was previously on it)
ArtTech Fabrication SS turbo manifold
ArtTech SS split gases downpipe 3”
Artech SS Vband 3” dual exhaust
3” Magnaflow muffler
3” resonator
ArtTech oil and coolant lines
Flyin Miata intercooler
Flyin miata BOV
Upgraded turbo to manifold studs, and locking hardware

Drivetrain:
2004 mazdaspeed 6 speed transmission
ACT extreme pressure plate
ACT 6 puck clutch
SS clutch lines
’95 miata torsen LSD
Mazda 3.636 ring and pinion
Lightened factory flywheel
Balanced flywheel and PP
Depowered power steering rack

Wheels/Tires:
Team dynamics pro race 2.0 15x7 wheels
Bridgestone Potenza RE-11 tires



Suspension/Brakes:
Stewart Development revalved Bilsteins
Fat Cat Motorsports shock mount kit with NB shock towers
Fat Cat Motorsports bumstop kit
Coilover spring mounts
Shock tower brace
450lb front springs
350lb rear springs
Flying miata front sway bar
Stock miata rear sway bar
Complete polyurethane bushing kit
New alignment bolts
Zirk fittings added to control arms for greasing bushings
SS brake lines
1.8L miata front and rear brakes
Wilwood proportioning valve
Ride height and alignment set to 949 racing specs

Chassis:
Black hard top
Hard Dog singled diagonal roll bar with harness bar
Frame rail stiffeners
Door bars
Shock tower brace

Engine Management:
Professionally built Megasquirt MS3x
Dual MAP sensors
Sequential fuel
Sequential spark
Knock module
Closed loop idle control
Closed loop boost control
Fan control
AEM WBo2 sensor

Tuning performed with Tunerstudio (not included). Tuned conservatively to 25psi.

Extras included with sale: (this is the short list)
Buddy Club racing seats with custom miata floor mounts
5-spd transmission
FM rear sway
Extra COPs
Extra WBO2 sensor
ACT xtreme organic clutch disc
Various intercooler piping, couplers, etc

Issues:
I dented the rt. front fender while backing into the garage. Never fixed because race car.
Soft top has a diy rear window fix (I only use the soft top in emergencies)
Oil catch can drips a bit at the drain.
Turbo exhaust housing has a leak where the WG actuator enters the turbo. It does not have an impact on holding boost target, but the turbo screams like a banshee at high boost.


FYI:
Pictures available, I have some track video available from Barber Motorsports Park
My PCA national instructor said it was one of the best feeling DIY miata builds he had ever been in.

Price drop, everyone looses if I have to ship the car. Might as well pass on the savings of not shipping and try to get it sold.

recent compression test? how many miles on the engine build?

Haven't had a recent compression test. I guess the positive is that I haven't felt like I need to get one. I'd say about 15k, and that's an overestimate.

I think you would be hard pressed to build one like the one I'm selling for the money. Others can chime in on this sentiment.

If I did it over again, I'd buy one like this or similar. Too many man hours in this thing.

This car would have saved me much time and money. I cant believe the parts list for the dollars you are asking. GLWS

GLWS

Free bump

I see an AC compressor. Is the AC still functional? How about power steering?

May I get a copy or a link to the video at Barber? My e-mail is fstenuf@gmail.com if you do not have it uploaded.

How long has the exhaust housing been leaking? Have you spoken with Garrett about having it repaired?

One last question for now: when will you be moving?

AC is not functional because there is a leak in the system. The exhaust housing has been leaking since I put the turbo on the car. It seems to be a leak between the WG actuator arm bushing and the housing. I don't like pulling the turbo because it's a pain, and since it hasn't had any problem holding boost target, I haven't worried about it. I move at the end of the month. Honestly, I'd probably see if dripping some black resbond in between the housing and bushing sealed it.

FYI

The car is pending sale.

Thank you for the information. It would be next weekend before I could make a trip to Huntsville. Please keep me updated about the pending sale.

Just for whoever buys it, replace those resistor-less spare plugs with resistor plugs ASAP. I have worked on way too many cars with electrical interference problems due to non-resistor plugs.

Clean car, GLWS.

There the same race plugs FM recommends. They have been in the car for over a year with no issues.

I agree though, some cars do get interference from resistorless plugs.

Car has a new home. Very nice guy, hope he sticks around the forum.