1993 Mazda Miata - $2300
07-07-2013, 10:23 PM
#1
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Location: Hermosa Beach, CA
Posts: 2,573
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1993 Mazda Miata - $2300
Category: Import
Status: Clean Title
I have a 1993 Mazda Miata for sale, in USA - Pennsylvania.
Mileage: 125000 miles
Engine Size: 1.6L
Asking price is $2300
Does not come with TRmotorsport wheels! VIDEOS in post 2.
So I am moving across the country, and it is time to part with my Miata. Now I am selling this as a semi-project, it does run but I wouldn't drive it more than 10 miles or so. It burns a decent amount of oil (turbo seals, piston rings I don't know, no time to diagnose). So it could eaither be a easy or hard fix. Honestly, the engine could use a refresh, so I would say it needs a rebuild. Everything else works well. Heres what is comes with:
- Black hardtop, lightest version!
- Koni yellow dampers w/ ebay coilovers, corner weighted
- BEGI cast T3 mani
- Ebay T3 Turbocharger
- Ebay intercooler, metal piping
- Mishimoto rad
- Custom 3" exhaust, made with a shitty mig welder
- Removed A/C, Idle valve
- Proper Stering Rack Depower (removed internal piston and seals)
- ACT HD clutch
- 1999 6-speed transmission (grinds 5th when cold)
- FM Frame rail braces
- Forge BOV
- 1.8L open diff
- RX7 Diff housing (no relif notch)
- Poly diff mounts
- Mazdaspeed Engine mounts
- Megasquirt 2 ECU, tuned great for the current setup, hard soldered, running speed density with IAT, EBC
- Innovate LC-1
- 2 sets of wheels and tires, one set with very used azenis, other with nice all seasons
- Alpine headunit, alpine speakers
- 6" sub in the rear shelf panel, amp in trunk
- Fresh alignment
- about 50% left on the brakes
- Softtop seals, a little beat up
Exterior - 4/10
It has a few dents on the front, one large on in the right front quarter panel. Front was backed into, they did a real shitty paintjob so it is peeling. Some rust on the pass rocker.
Interior - 5/10
Average wear
PICTURES:
https://plus.google.com/photos/10329...92098766789265
This has been a great car for me and has been through a lot in terms of parts being put on. Right now I think I have to set to hold around 10psi of boost. Timing is set conservative. It handles really well, the depowered rack feels great. If I was staying around I would just do a quick rebuild (or swap a 1.8L) but there is no time for that. I am trying to be as honest as possible, so please ask me anything.
As for price, I realize that it is not worth a lot in this state. So, ill say I am hoping to get $2300 for it. As a bonus I will include all spare parts I have (a lot!) and any misc. stuff I have laying around that you want. So you'll get the car (clean title!), hardtop, spare wheels/tires, spare parts, and a couple of tools. Let me know what you think of the asking price.
Thanks guys! My email is cardriverx at the google mail dot com, ill reply very quickly to an email.
LOCATION - Media, PA 19063
Status: Clean Title
I have a 1993 Mazda Miata for sale, in USA - Pennsylvania.
Mileage: 125000 miles
Engine Size: 1.6L
Asking price is $2300
Does not come with TRmotorsport wheels! VIDEOS in post 2.
So I am moving across the country, and it is time to part with my Miata. Now I am selling this as a semi-project, it does run but I wouldn't drive it more than 10 miles or so. It burns a decent amount of oil (turbo seals, piston rings I don't know, no time to diagnose). So it could eaither be a easy or hard fix. Honestly, the engine could use a refresh, so I would say it needs a rebuild. Everything else works well. Heres what is comes with:
- Black hardtop, lightest version!
- Koni yellow dampers w/ ebay coilovers, corner weighted
- BEGI cast T3 mani
- Ebay T3 Turbocharger
- Ebay intercooler, metal piping
- Mishimoto rad
- Custom 3" exhaust, made with a shitty mig welder
- Removed A/C, Idle valve
- Proper Stering Rack Depower (removed internal piston and seals)
- ACT HD clutch
- 1999 6-speed transmission (grinds 5th when cold)
- FM Frame rail braces
- Forge BOV
- 1.8L open diff
- RX7 Diff housing (no relif notch)
- Poly diff mounts
- Mazdaspeed Engine mounts
- Megasquirt 2 ECU, tuned great for the current setup, hard soldered, running speed density with IAT, EBC
- Innovate LC-1
- 2 sets of wheels and tires, one set with very used azenis, other with nice all seasons
- Alpine headunit, alpine speakers
- 6" sub in the rear shelf panel, amp in trunk
- Fresh alignment
- about 50% left on the brakes
- Softtop seals, a little beat up
Exterior - 4/10
It has a few dents on the front, one large on in the right front quarter panel. Front was backed into, they did a real shitty paintjob so it is peeling. Some rust on the pass rocker.
Interior - 5/10
Average wear
PICTURES:
https://plus.google.com/photos/10329...92098766789265
This has been a great car for me and has been through a lot in terms of parts being put on. Right now I think I have to set to hold around 10psi of boost. Timing is set conservative. It handles really well, the depowered rack feels great. If I was staying around I would just do a quick rebuild (or swap a 1.8L) but there is no time for that. I am trying to be as honest as possible, so please ask me anything.
As for price, I realize that it is not worth a lot in this state. So, ill say I am hoping to get $2300 for it. As a bonus I will include all spare parts I have (a lot!) and any misc. stuff I have laying around that you want. So you'll get the car (clean title!), hardtop, spare wheels/tires, spare parts, and a couple of tools. Let me know what you think of the asking price.
Thanks guys! My email is cardriverx at the google mail dot com, ill reply very quickly to an email.
LOCATION - Media, PA 19063
Last edited by cardriverx; 07-08-2013 at 04:55 PM.
0
07-08-2013, 04:36 PM
#2
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iTrader: (12)
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Hermosa Beach, CA
Posts: 2,573
Total Cats: 12
Guys and gals,
I just did an oil change on her with high mileage synthetic, seems to have helped a little with the oil issue. I drove her today about 10 miles with no change on the dipstick, still smokes on overrun and sometimes when idling.
I am leaning toward it just being the turbo oil seals, but again I cannot guarantee anything. I made some videos (below) and you can see she still pulls great vacuum at idle. She's set to slowly ramp up to about 9 psi under boost to be safe. Still drives well! I'd say the car is drivable to your house, id bring extra oil tho to be safe and drive easy.
First $2300 takes everything.
Videos:
Cold start:
Driving:
Let me know if you have questions!
I just did an oil change on her with high mileage synthetic, seems to have helped a little with the oil issue. I drove her today about 10 miles with no change on the dipstick, still smokes on overrun and sometimes when idling.
I am leaning toward it just being the turbo oil seals, but again I cannot guarantee anything. I made some videos (below) and you can see she still pulls great vacuum at idle. She's set to slowly ramp up to about 9 psi under boost to be safe. Still drives well! I'd say the car is drivable to your house, id bring extra oil tho to be safe and drive easy.
First $2300 takes everything.
Videos:
Cold start:
Driving:
Let me know if you have questions!
0
07-09-2013, 02:29 PM
#4
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Thread Starter
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Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Hermosa Beach, CA
Posts: 2,573
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For a reference, the last time it was driven I drove from Charlotte to Pittsburgh than Pittsburgh to philly. It lost about 3 QTS of oil doing that whole trip. If you bring extra oil to be safe I think it will make it fine.
0
07-14-2013, 12:16 AM
#9
Newb
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Philly, PA
Posts: 4
Total Cats: 0
Hey all, I am the new owner of this car. Steve is an awesome dude and really put a lot of hard work into the car. I'll post over in the noob forum and say hello.
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