Street legal Rotrex Track Miata feeler
11-07-2015, 07:27 PM
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Naperville
Posts: 372
Total Cats: 3
Street legal Rotrex Track Miata feeler
What is something like this worth?
2002 Blazing Yellow Mica Miata SE (48K miles) Now has 58,000
Suspension:
949 Racing 700/400 dual springs Clubsport $2,000
Racing Beat 1 1/8” front sway bar, MSM Miata 14mm rear sway bar, $449
and 949 end links
Aligned, corner weighted, and set height $400
Polyurethane bushings in control arms with grease fittings $175
Interior:
Shorty console & homemade ABS door cards $250
(both for arm clearance with lowered race seat)
AEM UEGO AFR, oil pressure, boost, water temp, and oil temp gauges
Low oil pressure warning light $300
Fire extinguisher NA
Wheels/Tires:
949 Racing 15” X 9” 6UL wheels $800
949 Racing aluminum lugs & valves $100
225-45-15 Hankook RS3s $500
Drivetrain:
OEM 6 speed NA
OEM clutch NA
OEM LSD 3.9 NA
Safety:
Hard Dog Hard Core double diagonal roll bar $425
Hard Dog Harness bar $150
Hard Dog Door Bars $175
Schroth Profi 6 pt. “pull up” harness $200
TDR Ultrashield Rally Sport 16” aluminum seat $325
(can be quickly swapped for OEM seat)
I/O Port seat back brace $100
Top:
Factory soft top removed NA
Black hardtop $900
Bolt in hard top brackets $50
Engine:
Kraftwerks Rotrex kit C30-74 w/intercooler $2,475 Used
450cc RX8 yellow top injectors $100
80mm nose pulley $80
Frozen Boost BOV Type 10 $45
323 GTX PCV valve $17
NGK iridium plugs (range 7) $29
8.5mm Magnecor wires $89
255 LPH DeatschWerks fuel pump $120
New OEM fuel filter $30
New Gates racing timing belt and pulleys w/labor $624
AEM FIC plus tuning cost $740
New 949 Water pump $57
Cooling:
FM Cross-flow radiator $525
M-tuned reroute $325
94-00 Head Gasket $55
Hood extraction louvers (on spare hood) $190
Stant 180* Superstat $6
Koyo 1.3 bar radiator cap $30
FM oil cooler (ducted) $250
Redline water wetter $15
Brakes:
OEM front sport brakes NA
OEM Rear Sport Brakes NA
Carbotech XP 8 pads rear $135
Carbotech XP12 pads front $150
OEM ABS NA
TSE prop valve not installed $50
SS brake lines $95
Castrol SRF Brake fluid $75
Hard Brake TI shims in front $50
TSE front brake ducts (routed from fog light openings) $200
Exhaust:
2 ½” Roadster sport exhaust $200
2 ½” Roadster Sport II muffler $200
Misc:
Braille battery $175
Tow hooks $40
Depowered steering rack & AC removal NA
GRAND TOTAL(original purchase price $10,000) $ 25,147 (plus hundreds of hours of my time)
I have all original parts also to go along with sale, including OEM unmolested hood
PM me your email if you want some pics
2002 Blazing Yellow Mica Miata SE (48K miles) Now has 58,000
Suspension:
949 Racing 700/400 dual springs Clubsport $2,000
Racing Beat 1 1/8” front sway bar, MSM Miata 14mm rear sway bar, $449
and 949 end links
Aligned, corner weighted, and set height $400
Polyurethane bushings in control arms with grease fittings $175
Interior:
Shorty console & homemade ABS door cards $250
(both for arm clearance with lowered race seat)
AEM UEGO AFR, oil pressure, boost, water temp, and oil temp gauges
Low oil pressure warning light $300
Fire extinguisher NA
Wheels/Tires:
949 Racing 15” X 9” 6UL wheels $800
949 Racing aluminum lugs & valves $100
225-45-15 Hankook RS3s $500
Drivetrain:
OEM 6 speed NA
OEM clutch NA
OEM LSD 3.9 NA
Safety:
Hard Dog Hard Core double diagonal roll bar $425
Hard Dog Harness bar $150
Hard Dog Door Bars $175
Schroth Profi 6 pt. “pull up” harness $200
TDR Ultrashield Rally Sport 16” aluminum seat $325
(can be quickly swapped for OEM seat)
I/O Port seat back brace $100
Top:
Factory soft top removed NA
Black hardtop $900
Bolt in hard top brackets $50
Engine:
Kraftwerks Rotrex kit C30-74 w/intercooler $2,475 Used
450cc RX8 yellow top injectors $100
80mm nose pulley $80
Frozen Boost BOV Type 10 $45
323 GTX PCV valve $17
NGK iridium plugs (range 7) $29
8.5mm Magnecor wires $89
255 LPH DeatschWerks fuel pump $120
New OEM fuel filter $30
New Gates racing timing belt and pulleys w/labor $624
AEM FIC plus tuning cost $740
New 949 Water pump $57
Cooling:
FM Cross-flow radiator $525
M-tuned reroute $325
94-00 Head Gasket $55
Hood extraction louvers (on spare hood) $190
Stant 180* Superstat $6
Koyo 1.3 bar radiator cap $30
FM oil cooler (ducted) $250
Redline water wetter $15
Brakes:
OEM front sport brakes NA
OEM Rear Sport Brakes NA
Carbotech XP 8 pads rear $135
Carbotech XP12 pads front $150
OEM ABS NA
TSE prop valve not installed $50
SS brake lines $95
Castrol SRF Brake fluid $75
Hard Brake TI shims in front $50
TSE front brake ducts (routed from fog light openings) $200
Exhaust:
2 ½” Roadster sport exhaust $200
2 ½” Roadster Sport II muffler $200
Misc:
Braille battery $175
Tow hooks $40
Depowered steering rack & AC removal NA
GRAND TOTAL(original purchase price $10,000) $ 25,147 (plus hundreds of hours of my time)
I have all original parts also to go along with sale, including OEM unmolested hood
PM me your email if you want some pics
Last edited by tomiboy; 11-14-2015 at 09:59 AM.
Reply
0
0
11-08-2015, 08:14 AM
#4
Junior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Naperville
Posts: 372
Total Cats: 3
Still undecided about selling. Just retired and track days where I live are VERY expensive. Thinking about trying shifter karts as an alternative. I am a realist and know that track cars are difficult to find the right buyer for. I believe I followed the correct path and used the best parts, but that is my opinion. I am able to easily reinstall both OEM seats and throw on the original Enkei wheels and tires and use it as a street car, although with no PS, AC or radio installed it is not ideal. It still has the carpeted interior. I still have the heater also. Our tracks are closed from October to April due to our weather so it normally just sits. My RS3s are nearing the end of their useful life so I plan on getting Maxxis RC-1 or NT-01s in spring. Emilio recommended I use XP-12s up front (instead of my current XP-8s) and a proportioning valve so those would come with, or on, the car. I use the best fluids and change frequently. A 75mm pulley could easily be fitted to gain more HP and torque, but I was erring on the side of safety since it is a track car.
Last edited by tomiboy; 11-14-2015 at 11:10 AM.
Reply
0
0
11-11-2015, 05:04 PM
#9
Newb
Join Date: Jun 2014
Posts: 19
Total Cats: -2
Two weeks ago my Miata was totaled in a wreck. As I sat here thinking of what I wanted to replace it with I built a "dream Miata" in my head. You've got about 90% of it right here. Do you have any pics? Location? How comfy are the seats?
Reply
0
0
11-12-2015, 05:29 PM
#10
Junior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Naperville
Posts: 372
Total Cats: 3
Near Chicago.
Right now OEM seats are in and very comfy!! I put the race seat and wheels/tires indoors in winter and install the other set of wheels/tires. This way I have a useable street car if needed for some reason. (never have used it yet!) The race seat is very comfortable on track, not so fun on 2 hour drives to some of the tracks. My local track is 40 minutes away and that's no problem. I am 63 with a very bad back
Right now OEM seats are in and very comfy!! I put the race seat and wheels/tires indoors in winter and install the other set of wheels/tires. This way I have a useable street car if needed for some reason. (never have used it yet!) The race seat is very comfortable on track, not so fun on 2 hour drives to some of the tracks. My local track is 40 minutes away and that's no problem. I am 63 with a very bad back
Reply
0
0
11-14-2015, 10:13 AM
#14
Newb
Join Date: Jun 2014
Posts: 19
Total Cats: -2
Mostly a bunch of personal preferences
I'd rather have a megasquirt, only because I've already had a squirted car and understand it and like the power it gives you. If I was doing it I'd probably go for the c30-84, especially with a 6 speed. I'd love to have a 10 AE, I like the blue better than the yellow.
I'd rather have a megasquirt, only because I've already had a squirted car and understand it and like the power it gives you. If I was doing it I'd probably go for the c30-84, especially with a 6 speed. I'd love to have a 10 AE, I like the blue better than the yellow.
Reply
0
0
11-14-2015, 10:19 AM
#16
Junior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Naperville
Posts: 372
Total Cats: 3
Mostly a bunch of personal preferences
I'd rather have a megasquirt, only because I've already had a squirted car and understand it and like the power it gives you. If I was doing it I'd probably go for the c30-84, especially with a 6 speed. I'd love to have a 10 AE, I like the blue better than the yellow.
I'd rather have a megasquirt, only because I've already had a squirted car and understand it and like the power it gives you. If I was doing it I'd probably go for the c30-84, especially with a 6 speed. I'd love to have a 10 AE, I like the blue better than the yellow.
As much as everyone on MT hates emission legal "piggy backs" this was recommended and tuned by Ken Hill (ex Flyin Miata tuner) and works seamlessly. Starts perfectly, runs perfectly, idles perfectly. It was also fine tuned on the dyno. I have a dyno chart but don't know how to post it to Photobucket. It is a PDF
Last edited by tomiboy; 11-14-2015 at 11:12 AM.
Reply
0
0
11-14-2015, 12:01 PM
#17
Supporting Vendor
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Lake Forest, CA
Posts: 7,950
Total Cats: 1,003
I too love the 10AE.
As much as everyone on MT hates emission legal "piggy backs" this was recommended and tuned by Ken Hill (ex Flyin Miata tuner) and works seamlessly. Starts perfectly, runs perfectly, idles perfectly. It was also fine tuned on the dyno. I have a dyno chart but don't know how to post it to Photobucket. It is a PDF
As much as everyone on MT hates emission legal "piggy backs" this was recommended and tuned by Ken Hill (ex Flyin Miata tuner) and works seamlessly. Starts perfectly, runs perfectly, idles perfectly. It was also fine tuned on the dyno. I have a dyno chart but don't know how to post it to Photobucket. It is a PDF
Reply
0
0
