SamNavy is selling his '93
No AC or PS.
Power nothing. Paint is 5/10. It looks good for a few weeks after a good wax. It was repainted in about ’97 and the previous owner did not believe in wax. I keep it looking good, but it’s an effort. The gel-coat is very thin. It’s been hit in the left rear-bumper slightly, with a small crack and spidercracking in the top of the bumper on that side… filled pretty good with paint and nobody gives it a second look. There are a few small paint "things" most of which are in the Photobucket pictures. Body panels are all 9.5/10 for dings. I can’t off-hand recall a ding anywhere, but there might be one. Both the stock undertray and the stock nose air-funneler have been removed. There is a piece of sheet-metal to help with airflow that connects the bottom of the bumper with the IC. Interior looks very good. Carpet under drivers floormat is a little ragged, but other than that dash/doors/center console all in great shape. Leather seat-covers are 15yrs old and definitely worn, but no tears of consequence. Steering wheel is lowered approx 2” for use with my custom seat, which can come with the car if you want it, but I will provide the car with stock (foamectomy’d) seat in place. Parking handle mod. Dead pedal. Package shelf removed to allow seats to lay back further, but included in sale. The top is old and has some very small tears that don’t leak. The plastic has a small crack that doesn’t leak and are easy repairs with any vinyl repair goo. In heavy rain, the side-rail leaks around the window and drips on your arm. Top-latches work perfect. Trunk is very clean, good spare/jack, and solid battery LONG LIST OF MODS: TURBO/POWER: BEGi cast manifold (2 studs utilize metal inserts) BEGi SS divorced gas DP SR20det T25 (/80/.64) w/stainless oil feed line ATP Adapters DSM 2G Wastegate Actuator Turbo heat-blanket NA Borla duals 2.25” 2.5” test pipe CX Racing IC, 2” piping All couplers w/T-bolt clamps Bosch OEM BOV (recirculated for keeping noise down) Big K&N cone filter DIY over-engineered Catch-Can Megasquirt (standalone by Braineak) (fuel pump jumpered in diagnostics box) RX7 550cc injectors (cleaned and flowed) GMC EBC solenoid w/dash switch Innovate LC-1 wideband Stewart Warner boost/vaccum gauge (gauge light activated via dash switch) Hi-quality vaccum line throughout DIY dual feed fuel rail Toyota COPS conversion w/awesome hold-down plate (resistor jumpered in diagnostics box) Autolite 1-step colder gapped at .045 (no blowout at 15psi) Voodoo MBC mounted on fender, set to 15psi (never removed it when I went EBC) Drivetrain /Suspension/Chassis: Spec Stg II Kevlar w/15k miles (a full job, all seals etc. changed when installed) 94+ Brake Upgrade w/OEM blanks, Hawk HPS pads, Goodridge Braided Lines Advanced Autosports Uber-Clutch-Line (replaces curly-q stock piece), brand new slave cylinder KYB AGX 8-ways w/about 100k Autopower Custom Rollbar (rear braces custom bent to allow extra seat) SFI padding + Leather Cover RB solid front/rear sways w/front reinforcer KK front K-member brace and rear lower A-arm brace Tranny filled with Royal Purple, Dif filled with some exotic Caterpillar transmission oil recommended by Dennstedts of San Diego. Mazdaspeed MotorMounts Cooling: Heater core lines heat-shielded Heater core pipe from 80’s Escort for better DP clearance Single-Piece lower radiator hose Parallel Fan Mod All metal OEM automatic radiator Prestone 50/50 Sound: 5yr old Pioneer CD deck Lightning 6.5” 3-way door speakers Clearwater headrest speakers XM antenna mounted to rollbar and wire routed (no other XM harware included) Misc: FIAM Airhorns Charcoal Canister removed Intake manifold brace removed New fuel filter Valve cover painted crinkle-black Voodoo Knob There are probably a few things I’m forgetting, will update as I remember. The previous motor started as a full bandaid setup, made 180whp, swapped to Megasquirt and shortly after blew the HG at 150k. “New” motor out of a ’93 driven by little old lady on 80mile commutes, compression 215-208-210-210 with 258k miles. I bought it from one of the local Miata autocross gurus. I’ve had it boosted for about 5k-6k miles and just burns a little oil (light smoking about 2 minutes after startup when something gets hot) but never after it’s been hot for about 5minutes. It goes through about a quart every 1500miles... most of that through a leaky front main seal. It puts down a single drop every night on the garage floor, but I know it leaks a little more on the road. Last dyno run it made 200whp spiking to 14psi dropping to 12psi by redline. It runs 15psi all the way to redline now… SOTP say 220-230whp. It’s daily driven at 8psi on wastegate, probably in the 170whp range, EBC (via dash switch) comes on for merging and occasional antics. I drive it WELL AWARE of the stock 6” dif. I do not drag or drift, and am very consious about how hard I use the clutch. I think the $25 per quart gear oil in it may also be contributing to its’ longevity. Needs a minor alignment, pulls very slightly left between about 30-60mph. Tires on car are brand new 195/50/14 Zeix 512’s on factory ’97 wheels. Wheels cosmetically are 8/10. I'm babying it now on these tires... the thing really needs 205's at least to match the power. For my asking price I will include FREE a set of 15x6.5" Konig Heliums with balding Toyo Proxes T1R's that you can throw on a set of 205/50/15 Falken Azenis which are the #1 aftermarket tire/wheel combo for a Miata. I daily drive the car, it’s my primary transportation, but I’m also a 3-car family, so I’ve got a backup vehicle. Mazda BP motors were designed from the ground up as a forced induction engine... but this thing does have some miles on it. The stock 6" rear dif was never meant to handle this kind of power either... so I treat it with respect. It will last forever if you're mindful of it... or the 94+ 7" Miata differential is a direct swap and will handle 400+whp. I also am including the original partially disassembled motor for free… the head needs resurfacing, and once re-assembled, should go right back in. Learning how the MS software works so you can tune the thing is your responsibility. I haven't made a tune change in over 6 months. It’s currently running the “Hybrid” spark map that’s widely used among mitaturbo forum-members, and the overall AFR tune is a very conservative 11.5-12.0. The Innovate Motorsports LC1 Wideband is a fantastic tool for tuning if you ever feel the need. You’ll need a laptop w/serial port or USB-adapter and a couple programs downloadable off the internet that I can provide. I’ll include the LC1 box and Logworks software CD as well. In it's current tune, I've never gotten less than 24mpg. I routinely get 26-27 even boosting the crap out of. It will get well over 30mpg on a long freeway drive. Cruise fuel cell tuning is about 15:1 and can be leaned out safely into the 17:1 range... 35mpg on an extended freeway trip is completely possible. Currently with clean Florida title and registered there (I make no statement whatsoever about the car’s ability to pass emissions. It has no cat and several pieces of factory smog equipment removed). Overall, the car is really damn fast. At 2150lbs and 230whp, you can do the math... but any stock Mustang/Camaro/350Z/S2000/STi/EVO/anything FWD... gonna be behind you the instant you hit boost in 2nd. The Miata is legendary on the track, and this car has the suspension and power to roll over just about anything short of a fully set-up track car. Lotsa Photobucket Pics: http://s277.photobucket.com/albums/kk76/SamNavy/Miata/ Cash or bank-draft ONLY! Asking $5500k. Email/PM me your info and any questions if you're interested. -Sam https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/vbg...etimage&id=484 https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/vbg...etimage&id=741 |
GLWS Sam, I know this has to be tough, but IIRC you're getting an NB as a replacement, no?
Only thing I'd recommend is putting some loom on those wires, I see they're tied out of the way but it'd make things cleaner underhood. |
Thats a clean car man. Why sell it? You will be hard bent to find another one that nice. And you'll have to start over. And now you have an excuse for internals.
But I understand. Sometimes change is nice. Good Luck! |
Upon arriving in Cali, will be purchasing a '99 and shooting for 300whp. I might also consider a straight trade for a '99 if anybody is game.
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Originally Posted by samnavy
(Post 309635)
Upon arriving in Cali, will be purchasing a '99 and shooting for 300whp. I might also consider a straight trade for a '99 if anybody is game.
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Photobucket link:
http://s277.photobucket.com/albums/kk76/SamNavy/Miata/ My drag day in Richmond isn't going to happen. This thing is seriously for sale now. It's going on Craigslist as we speak. |
PRICE LOWERED!
$5500, and that still inlcudes the extra set of Konig Helium's. |
Bump for a clean ride!
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bump for a good guy and a good car good luck with the sell.
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tempting,
But i've got one last big lump sum payment to be debt free. Why do all the Fing nice cars come up when I plan on making big payments on things. GD'luck |
474 hits and not a single one of you guys wants this car. If it's price... then PM and we'll see what we can see. It's gonna be a shame to dismantle this car. I promise I'll sell everything on eBay and not give any deals to the forum, so somebody talk to me!
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:::hmmmmm...whats parts do I need....::::::::
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Your car is awesome and you are a really great guy, but most of us already have one. We look at them because we want more of them.
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Your car is very well put together, but i have no need for another miata. If you DO part, at least link us the egay auctions.. ;)
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interested...
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sold...
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Yup, sold. MODs, close this thread!
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